₦airaland Forum

Who dey sell original MCB and MCCB for here? Wey dey trip at the specs written on the body?
I no wan buy 125A wey dey trip for 80A or 150A.
Thanks for the info

fuckboys:
Selling cos I got a mad X1 Carbon as a gift.

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Do unto others as it has been done unto you.

HustlingHustler:
Hi Engineers!
My 5Kva Felicity Solar inverter now goes off immediately Nepa takes light. It can't power my Fridge and AC anymore without it tripping off.
It has been powering every items in my house since I bought it 2 years ago but now, anytime I put on AC or Fridge, it goes off. All other items are working fine with it now except Fridge and AC.
Please, I would love to know if the inverter or battery is what is faulty.
Thanks

Check the contacts between your battery and inverter to check if there is looseness or burning, as the battery may not have been charging.

Obnoxious2001:
Clients are not really interested in knowing all this stuffs.

Explaining lot of technical stuffs makes the whole process look complicated, and customer don't want to know all those stuff

Someone like me, I like to ask questions, and the response from some installers is irritation.

Nothing will spoil if we explain the difference between sachet and hybrid inverter power differences to people.
Experts can be arrogant at times.

Unfaized:
It's your job to do some research then. Almost all satchet inverter buyers are aware of this fact. If you don't know then you probably shouldn't be buying one.

You can politely ask questions to learn, but accusing someone of false advertising on something that is common knowledge doesn't make you sound as smart as you think.

If by page 2,374 you still dey blow big grammar on this topic then what you need is research & education on the topic, not claims. The pricing alone suppose trigger your curiosity.

I don't think we should assume that all sachet buyers know that the inverters are rated at their peak power. As a user, if not for this forum, I believed that all inverters were rated at their continuous power.
That is why I am afraid of installers - they are used to not telling clients the truth about many things.
Users want to know things like peak power, continuous power, SOC, etc. These things help you to manage your installation well.
My two cents.

ajabani4allah:
I have eventually done the capacity test, see results below

Thanks a lot. From your view, do you think the capacity is acceptable for the price?

ajabani4allah:
I was trying to get to the cell probably I would see a bar code I could scan or see where they write the capacity but this was not possible as all the cells were welded and covered up, not the bolt and nut type. I will try the capacity test next weekend. Below is the final built after combining the two metal case by my welder

Bro. Have you been able to do the capacity test?

Tdoctor:
Abeg, who knows about Aiko Solar panels? Are they OK?

Please, anyone with info on Aiko solar panels?

Abeg, who knows about Aiko Solar panels? Are they OK?

ajabani4allah:
I was trying to get to the cell probably I would see a bar code I could scan or see where they write the capacity but this was not possible as all the cells were welded and covered up, not the bolt and nut type. I will try the capacity test next weekend. Below is the final built after combining the two metal case by my welder

I'll await the capacity test. Thanks plenty

[quote author=ajabani4allah post=139320661][/quote]Thanks bro. Have you done a capacity test? That'll be interesting.
I'm asking because I once bought a high-end MPPT, only to find out a much cheaper one had almost the same functions.
I want to balance between cost and performance. I'll go for this battery, if it'll need just a few tweaks for better performance.

ajabani4allah:
I got 2pcs of this battery, the 280Ah/12v version, I was so curious to see what was inside because of the cheap price, so, I opened the two and converted them to 280Ah/24v with 200A JK Smart BMS and thick cable. I am yet to do the capacity test but it's holding up pretty good so far

Abeg, you fit add picture of the opened battery? Thanks

ajabani4allah:
I got 2pcs of this battery, the 280Ah/12v version, I was so curious to see what was inside because of the cheap price, so, I opened the two and converted them to 280Ah/24v with 200A JK Smart BMS and thick cable. I am yet to do the capacity test but it's holding up pretty good so far

Thank for the detail. My questions:
1. Na normal 280Ah cell dey inside am?
2. When will you do the capacity test?

adimx:
Its an incomplete battery oh. Just like half of its rated capacity.
Someone did a capacity test on this battery on Tikt0k

Thanks a lot for the info. The price was looking suspicious. Any link to the tiktok review?

I salute the house
Please does anyone know anything about this battery?

Thanks to everyone for the solar car port tips. My eyes (abi brain?) has been opened. Much appreciated.

I salute.
Please what material should I use to prevent water leakage between panels in a solar panel car port?
Bassdows, twinskenny, anyone

Pabodo:
Hello Friends,
Please can this Huawei Sun2000l-4.6ktl-l1 work with a DIY lithium pack

The operating voltage is 350 ~ 450 Vdc
You will need 110+ 3.2v cells for this to work effectively.
I think it's made for Europe

mctfopt:
I don't know of any other trusted repairer unless you'd visit Schneider head office in Lagos at Ikeja Off Adeniyi Jones 1 Tunde Gafar Close. I'm sure you'd get info on repairs there.

This setup is beautiful. Where did you get the wire pipes (the name just fled my head)?

Omayie:
Electrodeholder

FEIHONG Welding machine

How much for the electrode holder and welding machine?

bassdow:
SMK, SRNE, etc. Would have to check what's available as na clients get them.

OK. Waiting for pics on the thread

bassdow:
I got quality USEd MPPT controllers from 160,000 naira and above for 600A, 80A, 100A, 1200A

Price of new ones are from that range though quality would differ as quality new ones would be much more expensive.

What brand of charge controller? Any pics?

bassdow:
what I would say is, you either use thick galvanized pipe, (optionally fill it with pure cement + 3-quarter granite if you want) or kukuma just use 4 pcs of 12mm or 16mm iron rods (go for TMT except the made-In-Nigeria is complete as some 12mm are actually 10mm or less) with evenly and properly spaced rings and do pillar.

Both metal pipe or H-beam or concrete pillar all work well so long it's properly done.

The beams also need be strong enough to handle the load and not sag.

Good Night

Thanks a lot. You don't know what you have done for me. God bless

bassdow:
bros we appreciate what you doing and questions you asking. My comments are more to remind you in case you forgot realities. one can never be so sure the other person knows what's involved.

Also I asked what you meant by "Normal Pipes" ? Because if you meant filling iron pipes with cement, then cost wise, it wouldn't be worth it compared to cost of kukuma doing pillar or using H-beams or thicker iron pipes.

BuT if by "Normal Pipes", you meant filling Plastic pipes (probably those big ones used in transporting pupu to septic tank), then I don't know what to say other than without using reinforced iron rods (rebar / TMT) of at least 16mm, or 4pcs of 12mm, it would be useless as concrete is weak without being reinforced. and if you have to use reinforce it with rebar, then adding the plastic pipe becomes unnecessary and waste of money + limits the thickness of the diameter. i know these things because I have handled a couple of building projects.

meanWhile, if that carport is the regular 4 legs type, then I wouldn't be as concerned as I am now BUT those design concepts in pictures you shared above uses the concept of what's called "cantilevered roof" and even in building projects, when not done properly spells disaster.

meanWhile, I love it when people think outside the box and try things outside the norms; so no think say i no appreciate your doings; just ensuring you know what you getting into or attempting.

Thanks for the comment. Normal pipes means metal pipe filled with cement. H-beam is 48k (4x2) per piece. Metal pipe is 8k per piece. I want a balance between cost and safety. Let me continue research. If safety cannot be assured with anything else, then H-beam it is. But, I want to justify the use of a H-beam (LFP) as against other methods (tubular).

bassdow:
what you mean by normal pipes ? You mean the iron pipes in those pictures you postetd above abi na plastic pipes you dey talk ?

Either way, no forget say apart from the expensive motor wey go dey under, na expensive solar panels go dey up. Don't end up wasting money, trying to save money.

Why not just use thicker iron pipes or H beams for the stands. once again, just allow those wey e be their work do their thing. Then una fit rub minds together to see what adjustments and improvements can be done

Bro, as we speak, I'm combining 48v lfp with 24v tubular in a single installation, and both are supplying power with no issues.
Innovation comes because someone challenges the status quo. Possibly, because of a car port failure, people started using H-beams out of fear without the requisite calculations.
I ask questions. It helps me know why this should be or should not be done.
Is it not possible that H-beams are used for carports like a two-legged table. If the carport will be like a four-legged table, will a H-beam be necessary?
Na question brother dey ask.

Tdoctor:
I salute una

Please I'm not crazy, but I want to DIY a carport/shed with solar panels.

Any tips?

I'm thinking about 4x2 or 3x1.5 H-channel beams, but I want to know the experience of others here who may have done such projects.

Regards

Who has tried filling normal pipes with concrete for improved durability at less cost?

bassdow:
First get yourself a good workMan who knows their onion well enough. Then let them give you a quote stating size of the required materials.
now ensure the H-channel beams and angle irons are of required thickness else those things sooner than later would begin to bend. Have seen a lot of them in such pitiful condition.

And if you have basic commonSense, you could just get a welder, and supervise the entire thing. It's how I do ma things most times.

But would suggest you employ service of those who are in that line of business as this design requires knowing what you doing

Sometimes people use materials out of fear and not based on calculations. For instance, it was from this thread that I started using aluminium for my solar wiring, with zero problems. I remember you saying aluminium can also be used for wiring solar panels and I'll try that out. I believe the advantages of copper are its superior bendability and conductivity (especially), but the superiority is not that much, and with bigger core aluminium cables which is far cheaper, you can get the same level or higher conductivity.

I see a lot of people using H-channels for car ports. Is it done based on calculations or based on fear? I don't want to throw money away, like someone using a 100-mm copper cable to wire a 5kw inverter. I want to justify the expense.
Thanks

FEGEITOK:
I

The first example.

I think that connector between the one coming out of the ground and the one housing the panels is too short and too thin.

I may be wrong

Those are not my setups. They are pictures I got online. Im just looking for ideas

I salute una

Please I'm not crazy, but I want to DIY a carport/shed with solar panels.

Any tips?

I'm thinking about 4x2 or 3x1.5 H-channel beams, but I want to know the experience of others here who may have done such projects.

Regards

dollarnaira:
I have trust issues with anything that requires crimping. I just go safe by soldering directly especially mc4 wahala.

Nice one. Haven't really thought of that. I don't like soldering, but it seems that has to be done.

If you are doing DIY, please crimp your wires well, and get a tool if possible. I was having issues with my cables burning one after the other (17 kwh battery running >5000 W at peak). Until a friend came by and found out my cables were not crimped well.
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That is why some people have hydraulic crimping tools. I lost several cable lugs and wire sections before I saw the issue. Crimping with muscle and pliers and crimping with a crimping tool is not the same. Your muscle cannot out-crimp a crimping tool.
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If you are not ready to spend and learn, leave DIY and buy from people who know what they are doing. There are so many things battery builders and other solar specialists have learnt from painful experiences. For instance, where they source materials, as there are too many fake products. (I have bought more than 7 improperly rated breakers; the last one I changed was tripping at 40A, although it was rated 63A). Don't cheap out on important components.
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Stay on this thread and learn. Read and read and know there is still more to learn. In DIY, you will first spend MORE before you spend LESS.
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This thread gave me the courage to build a 17kwh battery myself, at greater overall cost than Valto or Reed, cos I made some mistakes and had to buy some tools, but my subsequent builds should be less expensive. I knew it would be that way but I still went in for it.
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I think we should also state our failures more often, so others will learn. Learn from other people's pain and tears.