₦airaland Forum

podosci:
Lol... We build for all types of men, Goliath included

LoL.. The structure looks quite lovely and unique... Thumbs up to you and Abdul

n3xt:
It's the master's suite. A place the Oga at the top would like to unwind without leaving the comfort of his bedroom. Inside almost 80m², you can be anything you like without disturbing anyone.



Amazon and I also have a good supplier of book of interest in Lagos.

Who's the supplier please.. Can spend money on hard copy books but not ebooks (cuz I have to strain my eyes more to read the later, I assume I've already paid the price )..

n3xt:
Again, I'm not a lecturer. I'm equally a student with a strong will and determination.

I read a lot. For the glass structure in doing, here's something I'm reading at the moment. It has all the interesting details, plans, material list and elements needed so it make the work easier.

Where do you get all these books from?

n3xt:
@ WeldHome, this might be the final look of the work when completed. At least that's what the Oga OK'd for now.

Already in talks with a glass bending company in Amuwo Odofin.

This looks pretty nice. Not a place for stubborn and playful kids to live in tho...

n3xt:
That's why I used U channel and not H because I don't want the channel to be visible and also want a well finished flat face.

Sure, there'll be a deck. Composite metal deck. You know about it.

Sounds pretty interesting. I'm really interested in this your work, not as a customer but a student tho...

Kindly keep us updated on the work. Thanks and God bless..

gbadexy:
You are very correct sir .
Your comments may even be misconstrued.
I've been shown nothing but love from nairaladers from both divide.
It's best to just read comments or stay neutral except the government aren't making it easy to maintain neutrality in government.
I literally laugh my butt of reading comments from both divides of all classification and have learnt not to take anything personal there.

Hehehehehe! Very true. I will always avoid commenting there...

EgunMogaji:
Oh, it's not that character but another one

I have many disgruntled userid that I have decimated on here.

People often get too bothered about other's lifestyles forgetting they have theirs to live. I saw how they attacked you on your thread, likening you to an "I too know fellow". When me dey enjoy the thread and info way full am, some people were just hating. Well different folks, different strokes.

lastpage:
I agree with you 100%.

Even myself and many others will not identify in real life, with what we post there!
Serious "Regional" fight there!
But the good thing is that most of us know it ends online.
In the real world, we are all Brothers, irrespective of where we come from, which party we support or whatever.
Lastpage!

I concur!

n3xt:
WeldHome, I'm not a Pro in this field! I'm just a go-getter like one of my friend here.

Impossible is not in my record.

I used "U" channel for the bending because I might end up using curved glass (toughened) for the balustrade. For now, it's glass or nothing else according to the client.
It'll be easy to fix the glass to the frames you know.

Keep up the good job and let's keep exchanging ideas here and everywhere else

It's great fun you know.

Is the channel meant to be visible after the job is done or you'll cover it with something? Also, will there be a concrete deck within that area you're fabricating the U-channel?

podosci:
3bedroom Bungalow
Suited for a 120ft x 30ft plot of land with a 1bedroom BQ at the back. Car park for maximum of 4 cars.

That building looks quite high.. Are the occupants descendants of Goliath?

lastpage:
Yea, l do a lot of posting in that section but not exclusively.

That is where l get my "kick" from, the most!

That place "na-die"! but l enjoy it sha. We dont take things too seriously there (as in taking it to 'real life') otherwise, someone for don die online!

Lastpage!

Omo, that's the last place for a Nairaland business owner to be (especially if such person does business on here). S/he will definitely be provoked into saying things s/he was not meant to.

lastpage:
@Brabus:
is there no way the Frame below (from your pix) can be achieved without cutting and re-welding the iron?
I have Pressure./Press moulding in mind. So as to still maintain uniform structural strength.

Also, what is the thickness of the H-frame used?

I am sure other builders are learning new things from you.



Lastpage!

What you have asked is achievable with manually operated roll benders (with two-fixed and one moveable roller) and I think that frame is more of U-channel than H. I'm hoping to fabricate my own roll-benders in the nearest future when my pocket is tight..

EgunMogaji:
It has come to my attention that a disgruntled Nairalander who I had a spat with is going around trying to tarnish my online identity.

This person opened a thread on here with a picture that I used on my WhatsApp profile and purported to be looking for me.

Today, I got notifications from three people that someone is making the rounds of WhatsApp pretending to be me and trying to do business with my name.

I assure you that it is not me. Please be careful and do not loose your hard earned money to fraudsters and scoundrels.

Thank you.

Sincerely,

EgunMogaji

cc: Seun, Mynd44, Lawyer

LoL.. I hope it's not that roofing sheet guy... Saw one of your brawl with him on one of your threads... If it's him then he's definitely a desperate fellow.

lastpage:
I am BACK! Lastpage is back!!

I have been away from this section and Nairaland postings in general, since 16th of July! Seems like yesterday tho'.
My wifey (yes, Lastpage Madam) insisted l should 'chill-out' as according to her, l am beginning to take faceless people seriously.

Well, if there are two people whose counsel l take seriously, it's my Mother (of blessed memory) and my wife!
The Power of "Good Women" in our life!

I was against her rebuttal, posted earlier but she insisted that "for the good of those who have come to respect and admire that @username" (even anonymously) l should allow her to make the rebuttal.
I concurred though l argued that she should not delete the thread as l feel it has and still doing some good to others.
Moreover, she did nothing wrong!. when you get the consent of someone to 'post on their behalf, in order to help them', you act in their capacity.


So, my Two weeks 'self-imposed moratorium' has elapsed. Madam wanted one month but l pleaded to 'allow me naah', as part of my relaxation!

While l was away, l noticed the RATS were having a field-day!
One even said l 'ran-away'!
'Clowns' even said I am Brabus or my Madam is Brabus'w wife! (Brabus, if l see your face near my tent, you go hear am! )
Despite tens of posts on various sections of Nairaland where she has openly stated she is a woman, Lastpage's wife (in particular posts) and l have stated l am her husband (in my posts, on request where clarification was sought, as she is not a fan of the property section) some of these scallywags have said l am a woman!
One has to be very unintelligent, not to be able to say whether a poster is Male/Female, after reading about five of their post.
We would continue to use that single username, as we have always done.
We wont be like that one who was scouring for a Nigerian wife on Nairaland, on his visits to Nigeria, using a username his wife-to-be does not know, while at the same moment, the wife was arraigning a "spousal reunification" for him at the home office.
That is how terrible some of these people are.
Cheesux, wetin we nor go hear!

While away, I also noticed those who felt this was a "got-ya" moment and seized on it to yarn rubbish too.

I also noticed that Brabus has been posting new things (He did not even bother to ask after me while l was away!
Na so life be? Et tu Brutus/Brabus? ). That is the Brabus we all yearn to see.

I also noticed that some peeps have gone to delete posts where they said they have HIV! Oh-Well, we already know and the post was already quoted!
I also noticed that we have a new "Class Monitor" here. All Good, more grease to your elbow

I also noticed that, finally, we all agree to what l have been saying: Those who want to bash Builders should take it to threads specially created for that purpose....... or take the matter to EFCC who are qualified and empowered by LAW, to prosecute any allegation of Fraud.
This is why some Goats have made an enemy out of me! Simply because l refused to join them in bashing Brabus, from now till eternity.
Ofcourse, l did bash him initially and even assisted in ensuring he was refunding the cry-cry baby but after a while, l felt it was derailing a good thread.
Anyway, all good.

I also noticed that l have come to know the 'real person' behind one of the different Monikers.
You know, l did a little phone call to a friend who lives in the South/South and he in-turn did a little phone-call to the Land Registry in that side. He used the 4 coordinates of a survey plan/Approval submitted by the rat and voila!
All documentation/Approval application, e.t.c and bio-data of the person was made available.

So, if you still think you are anonymous, YOU are not! When you come into the country by year end, l would be 'informed' at the point of entry as you scan your Palli (Thats a service reserved for VIP's that you are getting, so that Escort can get ready to do their work) and MAY decide to even provide you with "security", free of charge, all the way to your house by NTA Rd, as my very good friend from N/Land.
One good turn they say, deserves another.
Its a small world and we need to be very careful about what we say/do online, under the guise of anonymity.

Having said that, l am bound to honor the new trend here and keep this thread to strictly anything CONSTRUCTION AND BUILDING.

Brabus, l admire that iron contraption you are doing, l hope you get experts in material testing to confirm the strength of that material to withstand the intended load?
Remember, "those who are about to be roasted, ..... dont bath with petrol".

I wont revert to this particular post again, (except l am compelled to).

"Lies, if repeated so often,... and left unchallenged, may assume an air of truth".




Lastpage!

If you've been frequenting only the politics section on here, then i must confess that your madam was right...

n3xt:
Welcome back Sir Lastpage!

While you are away...

I like your posts and just like you, I love learning.. It's inspiring coming on here to see people doing things. Hope you have room for apprenticeship?

Cc: mufutau55, Shawls, abdulwastecx, EgunMogaji, spyder880, ANBAKO, erico2k2, lalasticlala, mavverick

DOORS

Ensure all steel doors you purchase were pre-coated with red oxide before painting. Single red oxide coating is good enough for your doors. Do also ensure that your welder gives you good finishing. Grease your doors on yearly basis.

BURGLAR PROOF

You may not need red oxide coatings for burglar proof in your bedroom, sitting room, etc, but ensure double coating of red oxide is applied to that of toilet and kitchen.

VERANDA RAILINGS

This is normally placed outside so it won't be a bad idea if you have double coatings of red oxide applied before the main paint. Best material for veranda rails is galvanized tubings. Avoid the practice of spreading wet cloth on it. If you can't, then ensure then ensure it's well protected against corrosion before use. First two pictures below shows excellent finishing of railings built with galvanized tubing and elbow joint

STAIRCASE RAILINGS

Single coating is OK for this even though it's not usually exposed to much moisture. Also use galvanized tubings especially if you used same for your veranda rails. Last picture below shows staircase railings also with excellent finishing.

CONCLUSION

It's wise to spend a little more for quality products than having regrets later. Do not also forget to use the services of reliable and sincere welders. Even if they don't charge for all the extra stuff stated here, make sure you tell them to do these things and have them charge you for it. A few of them that knows the importance of all I've written here will probably not charge a client for the above listed neither will he include it in his services because the owner may leave him for another welder (cheap stuff).
God bless..

4. Finishing

Do you know that it is more economical for you to spend more on a gate which has undergone all the necessary procedures to prevent corrosion than spending less on one made in a haste or made economically?

I'd prefer to charge my clients extra N20,000 and deliver a gate with double coatings of red oxide (single coating is ok for doors, some burglar proof and staircase railings but not so good for gates and veranda railings). After the double coatings, the main paint can then be applied enough to cover the red oxide coatings completely. The top and bottom of the gate should not be neglected when body filler, red oxide and paints are been applied (very important).

The pictures below shows a double plate gate that underwent double coatings of red oxide (without a final painting applied). This gate will last for ages.

5. Maintenance

I cannot emphasize the importance of maintenance enough. This is because, a gate that is scrubbed (with wire brush and sand paper) and painted once in 1 - 3 years will last way longer than one which doesn't undergo any maintenance. Focus on the areas that have rusted and the ones about to.
All you need do is; purchase red oxide; same color of paint your welder used to produce the gate; painting brush, wire brush (just N300) and sand paper (rough and smooth). Use the wire brush to remove the oxide (rust) on your gate, use rough and smooth sand paper to scrub same areas you scrubbed with the wire brush (use rough first). Then apply red oxide (mix with petrol or paint thinner if too thick), before painting (mix paint with small quantity of petrol to reduce thickness/viscosity).
Always lubricate the hinges, say 3 - 6 monthly basis. The grease/condemned engine oil will not only reduce friction in the hinges (enable free movement of the gate), it will also act as corrosion inhibitor (prevent rusting).

3. Design

a. Sharp Edges: there shouldn't be any sharp edges left on any part of the gate. Make sure your welder grinds all surfaces appropriately as sharp edges are much more vulnerable to corrosion than smooth surfaces.

b. Openings: Most welders makes gates without ensuring that all openings are filled up (first picture below). These openings easily collect moisture which increases corrosion rate around the regions of openings. I will rather charge a customer an extra N8,000 - N10,000 and apply body filler all round the corners, joints, and points of contacts between steel tubings and plates of a gate than give him/her a finished gate that will not take up to 6 months before corroding (I've seen one that started corroding within just a month of usage during rainy season). The second and third pictures below are consequences of using thin tubing and openings between tube and plate after production.

c. Appearance: Remember, your gate is not only your first line of defence but also the first thing to attract one to your building, so ensure you make it stand out.

The more the designs on your gate, the more the amount of money you'd spend to acquire such gate. The drawback of this, is that these designs (done with flat bars, square rods or cast aluminium) retain water, hence increasing the rate of corrosion. I'd advice you to spend your money on a simple gate (especially if you reside in a waterlogged area) with double plate rather than on one with too much design. The fourth picture below shows a gate with too much design in an area that contains salty/hard water.

The plate doesn't have to necessarily be thick (1.5mm plates will do for both sides of the gate frame). These type of gates will effectively protect the tube frame of your gate and thus, make the whole gate last longer in service.

GATES

The importance of gates to a building is often downplayed. This is because the building normally takes away 98% - 100% of our attention. Even when we pay equal attention to all parts of our project, when we get to the gate, we concern ourselves with only how beautiful the gate should appear without checking all other factors.

I went around (building to another) and took pictures of gates that have being put to service for some years. These pictures are meant to show potential homeowners and others what and what not to do when getting their gates.
Consider the following points:

1. Materials

Ensure that only thick tubings, H-channels or angle iron are used for your gates. They're more expensive and will make your gate cost more but trust me, they are the best.

2. Environment

If you're building in a swampy area, or worst still, an area that is surrounded by polluted or hard water, ensure to put that into consideration when negotiating with your welder on the kind of gate you want.

Cast the surrounding areas that will house your gate appropriately and do ensure that your gate don't come in contact with the ground (leave a clearance of about 1cm between the gate and the concrete flour), because this will ensure that the bottom doesn't corrode on time.

Steel was, is and will always be the most important engineering material and the most widely used metallic material on earth. This is because its mechanical, physical and chemical properties, low cost, availability and recyclability makes it stand out from other materials. Unfortunately, steel is always quick to corrode (rust) and this makes it important to build in such a manner to resist corrosion/rusting.

This thread is meant to expose people to important considerations when getting steel products for their buildings. Please bear with me as I will break this information into parts in order for me to be able to post all the pictures I have.

erico2k2:
Stay away from swamp . If you are planning to build in one but if you are just trying to increase knowledge fire down.
I had my fingers burnt . I'm still watching my N3 m plus foundation trying to stabilize .

LoL! For knowledge sake sir. Not building or planning to build anytime soon...

segcymoor:
Wood in the water? Then wood being received the load?......I don't get it!

It's an old method tho. I think it was called floating foundation or so.

mufutau55:
Ok. I think one of my Oga here recommend Anstel brand...for 305m about 12k. Do you know that brand?

Hajji M.

Being meaning to find out sir,

Is there some form of business partnerships on Nairaland property section that new businesses can key into? Say for example, a group of people offering different services, links each other up for the purpose of providing better and more effective services to clients, while all the benefactors of the entire project will be mainly nairalanders.

I wish to be part of something like that and from there, build my online presence. Is it obtainable?

Thank you as I anticipate your response.

segcymoor:
Not properly done? But how?
Raft foundation is most simple form of foundation as far as I am concerned.

There was a place I was reading about building construction in a swampy area, very big logs of wood were played down on the ground before the foundation was set up. From the article, that seemed to be aan affordable, reasonable an archaic method of building in a swampy area back then. So what is that kind of foundation called, the type that sits on huge logs of wood in a swamp..? Thanks as I anticipate your answer.

Happy birthday.. Wish you 100 more years ahead..

Dear Nairalanders,

I wish to enquire from my able bodied Civil Engineers, Builders, Architects, which software is the best for steel structural analysis. I've heard of Prokon and Staad Pro. But based on what I heard about Prokon, it appears to be difficult and based on what I heard about Staad Pro, it's not too reliable. So please advise on which is the best or which you've used and will always recommend to people. Thank you.

mufutau55:
Do you have WhatsApp number for sending photos and chat, or same number?

Hajji M.

My whatsapp contact is 07087144519. Sorry I made a mistake initially when I typed it but have corrected the mistake. Thank you.

ANBAKO:
Per checkered plate, I agree that they have the same mechanical properties as the plain plates.

The reason why I prefer the checkered plate is the aesthetic that it brings to fabricated works especially door...hence I still stand by my choice of checkered plate.

I also do not like the designs done with grinding machine because its doesn't look real due to it manual approach. The contours, the depth of the "trough" and subsequently the width and the straightness are inconsistent and not neat ( at least all that have seen). This due to application of different "pressure" on the grinding machine and it's disk

I still do not understand you answer about the 2"x2" frame/door.

Can you upload a picture and use it to expatiate on the question.

Thanks

You know, there're basically two types of thicknesses mostly sold for door fabrication. One is thin and the other thick. In such case, I'll use the thick 2by2 for subframe. Nonetheless, I will use a thin 3 by 1½in pipe as the plate, door handle holder/inner frame. Also, if what you need is checkered plate, then all you need do is, add a thousand naira - N1,000 (difference in price between both plates is N2,000 - N2,500 and a full plate can make two doors) to the price I gave above and that gives you the price difference between a plain plate door and checkered plate door.

Sorry, I presently don't have pic of any door with a 2 by 2 sub frame but I will use a pic with a folded plate (popularly called pan frame by roadside welders) to explain. From the pic below, assume that the sub frame is a 2by2 (which will be done using a thick tube) which will go into the wall, going inward, immediately after the sub frame, lies a 3 by 1½ inches tubing which we'll use thin section to fabricate for that price (N25,500 and N35,500 - checkered plate) If you want thick tubing all thru, then you will need to pay a little extra.

mufutau55:
WeldHome... as you leave useful information like this, you should also leave your contact info at the end of your message.
Please edit the message and leave your contact info for those who might need your service. Thank you.

Hajji M.

I have done that and..
Thank you sir!

[quote author=ANBAKO post=47916387]Thanks you so much for this great piece. I, IMO, think you have done justice to this topic.

you are welcomed sir

I want to mentioned and elaborate on some few things that you mentioned here and ask further picture

Last week, I went around "scouting" for doors including local manufacturers/fabricators. I did not see any that used a primer(red oxide). All of them just paint directly is very evident as most has started showing sign of corrosion due to improper painting procedures

As a graduate of metallurgical and materials engineer (graduated top of my class too), I know how important it is to put corrosion into consideration in any build, as long as the materials in question is steel. But I found it amazingly silly that a man I learnt how to weld from (a roadside welder), even with several years of experience still don't think it wise to apply red oxide first before the actual painting..

Can you please clarify what you mean by single and double door? This is because I know my doors by their sizes - 7ft x 3ft, 7ft x 4ft. What is the relationship between these definitions?

You're actually correct. I used double in layman's term. The double door I meant is actually 7 by 4ft (has one full door and an attachment-smaller size door) and opens in different directions.

What is the financial implication of using checker plate (hope I get that right) as against the plain plate mentioned above?

truth is, checkered plates have almost same strength levels as plain plate steels of same thickness but checkered plates are usually more expensive because of the check designs placed on them during rolling/production. Nonetheless, I'd prefer working with plain plate because it'll give me the opportunity to draw a simple design myself, on such doors. Note: I haven't tried drawing such designs before but I believe that even my first trial will produce something beautiful, since I not only have good artistic skills but good autoCAD/Engineering drawing skills. I'm being as sincere as I can because I believe sincerity is the building block of a good business relationship

What type (thickness) of 2" x 2" tubing (square pipe) will be used for last 2 doors above?

For this very door, the subframe (between the door and the wall) will have thick tubing but the frame holding the plate [fram between subframe and plate] will have thin tubings. Thing is, if you want to have only thick tubings all round your doors, you will spend a lot. Although it's the best if you have the cash.

Finally can there be discount if I am ordering 20pcs?

I'm very sorry I won't be able to provide you discount simply because what I stated is actually the lowest price I can go for such work. Reasons are, the hike in prices of raw materials and even the desiel used for the job, not forgetting the time and materials we put into doing the extra work, red oxide coating. I can actually give you simple designs (using grinding machine) on your plates to compensate for the no-discount offer..

Any private info can sent to anbako123@gmail.com

Will defintely contact you

ANBAKO:
Hajji, Thank you for this thread, that I believe is gonna take a lot of weight off my shoulder and enlighten me on how to move forward with my build because I am confused due to this door issue. I want to get everything ready: Burglary, door, aluminium window before plastering. I can sort out the burglary and the window, but the door is a great concern because I could only find limited info on it.

house door 101
What makes a good door?
Which type of door is in vogue?
Which type of door is reliable?
Which brands of door are recommendable?
Price ranges


Let me stop here for now
Too many questions begging for answer


Do good for good to come your way

I only know about locally fabricated doors and will talk about that. Now, locally fabricated doors range between 22 - 35k for single doors. I'm going to post from my spreadsheet and experience now..

Locally fabricated doors comes with various kinds of steel materials, depending on the one used by your welder, the prices could be high or low.

1. When single 2 by 2 inches tubings (thin sections) are used as sub frame, with plain steel plates of 1.5mm thickness, expect that to be the lowest quality and this one doest look so good. It's price could range between 22-24k depending on the welder.

2. When plates of 1mm are folded and used as sub-frame, you have a finer design and then the quality of the frame becomes better than that of number 1.

3. Now when different types of tubings (eg, 2 by 2 inches and 1 by 2 inches) to form a frame, especially if such tunings are of thicker sections, you have a strong and classy looking sub-frame that can be used for any type of door (wooden, aluminium, steel, etc). You can't get this kind of frame from just any welder, because we are only a few that does this type.

4. Now the type of door plate also matters a lot. If one is going for strength alone, then plain plates of 2mm or 2.5mm (hardly used for doors but rather for gates) can be used. But if strength and design are required, some predesigned plates are used by welders to make such. This predesigned plates comes in different sizes and types. Some are called China white and has some kind of silvery color if not yet completely rusted (avoid this type) and comes in 1.5mm and 2mm thickness. The darker plates have better quality and doesn't rust easily like the China white. Generally, designed plate doors are more expensive than checkered plate doors while checkered plate doors are more expensive than plain plate doors.

5. If also you want to patronize your local welders, ensure that their doors are precoated with red oxide before main painting. This is because most welders see this as "waste of paint" because they don't know the importance of red oxide.

6. Local steel doors are as strong as the the foreign ones but the foreign ones have better designs. Also, just like trusses (roof trusses also called roofing frames), steel doors are better than wooden doors and last longer in service.

I will post type of doors and their prices (based our prices) on this thread.

Single door with 6" pan frame/2mm plain plate (N29,000)
Single door with 9" pan frame/2mm plain plate (N30,000)
Double doors with 6" pan frame/2mm plain plate (N36,000)
Double doors with 9" pan frame/2mm plain plate (N37,000)
Single door 2 by 2 tube frame/2mm plain plate (N24,500)
Double door with 2 by 2 tube frame/2mm plain plate (N34,500)

Prices for special frames and design plate
Top quality 6 inches frame = N9,000
Lower quality 6inches frame with thin tunings = N6,000
Top quality design plate = N9,500
Lower quality design plate = N7,500

Contact is 07087144519. I'm a Metallurgical and Materials Engineer working with another Metallurgical and Materials Engineer (partner) and a local welder with over 8 years of experience, so I deliver the best in locally fabricated steel products.