₦airaland Forum

The class is holding here. Class continue soon.

roseisy:
Waiting Ma

I stopped posting because the respond was low. But will continue even if it is few people that benefit. Though my plan is to organise free class on basic, intermediate and advance but seems we don't appreciate Free things.

Ebowo:
ido they not measure armhole?

You can measure it on your client by measuring from the shoulder to where the curve of the armhole start. You can also use the person (bust measurement divided by 4) - 1.

The next topic to be treated is A-line gown. Let us feel free to comment and ask questions.

Then your blouse back and front block is ready. For the back, at the zip allowance side, you cut it into two so that you will be able to fix your zip.

You place the front block that have been cut after the line of the zip allowance. Then you use it to cut your back block

You mark 2" from the side and downward. This will serve as your Zip allowance.

For the back block. Let your fabric be on fold.

From your back measurement come down by 0.75"-1.5" for your shoulder slope and connect from the neckline to the armhole curve.

Am using a round neckline so I use 3"x3" for both neckwidth and neckdepth. You can use your desire neckline.

You then join all marked point together.

From your back measurement, your measure 7" downward. Though this depends on the person armhole depth. You then shape out your armhole curve.

Mark the following measurement: back, bust, underbust, waist and the circumference/roundness of where your blouse will reach.

After marking all the measurements above except back, you will add 2" which will serve as seam allowance.

Draw your Back/Shoulder line, bust line, underbust line, waist line and hem line. The hemline is 2" after the blouse length. The hemline is your folding allowance so you can make it less or more of 2" depending on your choice.

Let your fabric be on fold

BLOUSE

MEASUREMENT NEEDED for blouse are blouse length, Back/Shoulder, Bust, Under-bust Circumference, Waist, Bust line, Under-bust, Waist line and Circumference of where we want the blouse to reach.

NOTE: Bust line is from Shoulder to Nipple, Underbust is from Shoulder to Under the breast/bust and Waist line is 4" from the Underbust measurement. The hem line is our folding allowance, it is 2inches. The Armhole depth used is 7", it can be more or less depending on the person stature.

If you follow the illustration below. You will have a blouse like the one shown below after sewing.

Happy Sewing.

Feel free to ask questions, comment, like and share this post. Don't forget to invite/add friends for them to learn as well.

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If you are following this thread, kindly type following. The next class is blouse and it will be taking tomorrow.

Step 7: cut it out. Then your front and back shirt bodice is ready. You can now sew them.

Step 6: Place your front skirt bodice on the back. Then trace out your front skirt bodice on the back.

Step 5: From your center front, you measure 2" as your ZIP ALLOWANCE, then draw then line down.

Step 4: Join all the marked point together.

Step 3: Mark your waist, hip and breakwidth measurement. Add 2" seam allowance. Your waist and hip measurement will be Waist ÷ 4 and Hip ÷ 4 respectively. The breakwidth is (Hip - 4 or 6) ÷ 4. If you use (Hip - 6) ÷ 4, the narrow path(tip) of the skirt will be tighter than using (Hip - 4) ÷ 4.

Step 2: Mark your Waist line, Hip Line and Skirt length and add 2" after the skirt length to sew the fabric in. From Waist line to Hip line is 8"-9".

Steps in drafting a pencil skirt.
Step1: Let your fabric be on fold.

PENCIL SKIRT.

What we will be doing today is pencil skirt. The measurement needed for this skirt are
Waist
Hip
Skirt length
Breakwidth.

Since the fabric will be on fold for both front and back measurement respectively. Our Breakwidth is our hip measurement minus 4 or 6 divided by 4 i.e (Hip - 4 or 6) ÷ 4. It is the breakwidth that gives the kneel that shape. If you use minus 6", the breakwidth will be tighter than using 4"

MEASUREMENT TAKING.

ACCURATE MEASUREMENT is the key to perfect fit. Accurate measurement gives perfect cut and fit. While taking measurement one should be careful to take the correct measurement. Seam allowance should not be added while taking measurement.

Measurement should not be taken over a loose garment, if not it may give a wrong figure. It should be taken loosely and not tightly.

The places to Measure are
1. BACK: some people call this shoulder measurement. This is the measurement from one shoulder bone to the other.

2. BUST: this is the chest/bust circumference. This measurement should be taken over the fullest part of the bust.

3. BUSTLINE: this is the measurement from shoulder to the bust point.

4. UNDER-BUST: this is the measurement from the shoulder to under the breast/bust.

5. WAIST: the is the circumference of the navel part.

6. HIP: the fullest part of the hip should be taken.

7. THIGH: for trouser, this is needed.

8. LENGTH: this varies, it can be blouse length, gown, length, skirt length, trouser length. This varies depending on style and individual.

9. SLEEVE LENGTH: this can be short sleeve, 3/4 sleeve or long sleeve.

10. WAISTLINE: this is from shoulder to the navel point.

11. UPPER ARM: this is needed for the roundness of the sleeve, short sleeve.

12. WRIST: this is used in long sleeve.

These are the major measurements needed in basic class. The diagram below shows some illustration of measurement.

The next topic is Skirt and type. We will be drafting pencil skirt. Get your materials ready and stay tuned.

The next class will be measurement taking, Skirt and Type. A practical will be done on pencil skirt. Let us all get our materials ready and stay tuned..

Your Contribution and Comment will be appreciated.
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MAINTENANCE OF SEWING MACHINE.

The following should be done to maintain the sewing machine properly. These prevent sewing machines from being faulty often and make it to work properly.

1. Clean the sewing machine often even when it is not in use.

2. Use brush and tweezers when cleaning, never blow at the dust.

3. Oil it daily.

4. Always use the right needle size.

5. Use correct bobbin. If wrong bobbin is used, it will cause damage to the sewing machine.

6. When cleaning the sewing machine. Use a clean dry cloth. Don't use a damp cloth to clean.

7. Don't place any form of liquid or food on the sewing machine.

PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE.

The diagrams below shows the parts of sewing machine.

SEWING MACHINE: TYPES, PARTS AND MAINTENACE.

Sewing machine is the major tool/machine needing in sewing. It is used to join fabrics and other clothing accessories together. Without it, a sewing project can't be completed.

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE
There are different types of sewing machine. They are
1. Mechanical Sewing Machine. This is the most common sewing machine that we do sew around us moat especially in Nigeria, though it can be found anywhere in the world. It can be operated manually and can works without electricity. While some have electric motors attached to them, making it possible for it to work with electricity.

2. Buttonhole Machine - The major feature of this machine is the zigzag stitches which vary in length. Though it also has a straight stitch. The major use of this machine is to sew and make buttonholes. It can also be used to fix button.

3. Industrial Sewing Machine: For neater and faster stitching, the industrial sewing machine is a better option. It ensures neater and faster sewing. For instance, if you can make 2 garments with the manual sewing machine within an hour, then you would be able to produce 5 ferments or more using the industrial Sewing Machine.

4. Overlock Machine: this is used to give the cloth a professional finishing. It does three things at a time, it sews, hem and edges the fabric. So, it produces a well-finished job.

Am holding a free fashion design course online on nairaland. You can click on this link to join.

https://www.nairaland.com/4247211/free-fashion-design-course/1

ESSENTIAL SEWING TOOLS.

These are the major tools needed for a sewing project. They are used while drafting either through free hand method or pattern drafting. These tools include

1.Measuring Tools: measurement is the first thing to do and it is very important. Without measurement you can't start a sewing project. The measuring tools needed are tape-rule(measuring tape), hip curve, pant curve, armhole curve and ruler.
One have to take accurate measurement of one's client and also while drafting the measurement on either cloth or fabric.

2. Chalk, Pencils or Marker. These are used to mark the measurement taking.

3. Scissor: This is used for cutting. A very good scissor is very important and should be used.

4. Seam ripper: this is used to loose stitches when one make mistake and can also be used to cut the middle of button hole after making the buttonhole (zigzag) stitch.

5. Iron: this makes one's project to be neat. The fabric should be ironed during and after sewing. There are some projects that even required ironing before cutting.

6. Office pin.

7. Pin Cushion.

8. Needle.

9. Thread.

10. Broad Cutting Table.

11. Ironing Table.

These are the most essential sewing tools needed. We should not forget that sewing machine is the first to have.