Hello Good Nairaland People,

I just bought a Toyota Matrix 2003 XRS Manual transmission with 6 Gears (Toks), its a beautiful car though old. My question is this - Whenever I shift into the gear 1 and just about to move the car normally cars vibrate on 'biting points', but this one vibrates so much that I even have to give the accelerator more gas before the car moves - its as if something is holding it before that initial move and you have to put in more force. What are your suggestions before I take it to the mechanic.

N.B: If you know of a very good mechanic that is quite experienced with Toyota Matrix around Ikeja - I wouldn't mind.

Bring your car in again and have the balance checked on all four tires.

Am 100% sure that the vibration is related to clutch pressure plate and disc. Have them replaced with original replacement parts.

I had the same problem before my clutch plate fibre burnt out. After replacing both, the vibration disappeared. I used to have that problem with my 1st car '86 honda accord before i sold it.

Read this http://www.cartoq.com/when-to-replace-your-clutch-plates-warning-signs/
ar
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ts-04.htm#clutch-shudder

kingschild123:
Bring your car in again and have the balance checked on all four tires.

What ?

The car is having problem to get into gear and you talk of wheel balancing do you know what wheel balancing is for?

segunb:
Hello Good Nairaland People,

I just bought a Toyota Matrix 2003 XRS Manual transmission with 6 Gears (Toks), its a beautiful car though old. My question is this - Whenever I shift into the gear 1 and just about to move the car normally cars vibrate on 'biting points', but this one vibrates so much that I even have to give the accelerator more gas before the car moves - its as if something is holding it before that initial move and you have to put in more force. What are your suggestions before I take it to the mechanic.

N.B: If you know of a very good mechanic that is quite experienced with Toyota Matrix around Ikeja - I wouldn't mind.

It depends.

Have you checked the wheels for brake binding?

Drive the car for about 10-15 mins. Stop the car, come down and touch the 4 wheels. I mean the steel or Alloy wheels not the wheel covers. If any feels extremely hot, then the brake flexible hose or the caliper is the culprit. Replace the blocked flexible hose or wash and rekit the stuck opened pinions of the caliper, depending on which is the culprit.

If more than 2 wheels are are extremely hot (2 front wheels, 2 rear wheels or the 4 wheels), then the blake master cylinder is the culprit. Rekit it and the problem will be gone.

There is another method of testing for brake binding. Jack the 4 wheels, one after the other. Rotate each one up with your hand. It should be free. If any refuses to move, then the wheel's flexible hose or caliper is the culprit. If 2 or 4 wheels refuse to rotate, then you know the culprit and the solution i mentioned above.

Aside the brake binding test, there is something else am suspecting, but needed to get you clearly.

When the car is stationaly and you want to move with gear 1, does the rpm drops rapidly, irrespective of how you rev the car?

By the way, slipperly clutch plate will make your rpm jump higher than it should when trying to move the car, irrespective of how low you accelerate the car.

Ikenna

adanny01: Am 100% sure that the vibration is related to clutch pressure plate and disc. Have them replaced with original replacement parts.

I had the same problem before my clutch plate fibre burnt out. After replacing both, the vibration disappeared. I used to have that problem with my 1st car '86 honda accord before i sold it.

Read this http://www.cartoq.com/when-to-replace-your-clutch-plates-warning-signs/
ar
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ts-04.htm#clutch-shudder

Yeah most likely but also do a proper check on the engine sittings

Edunwa302:
Yeah most likely but also do a proper check on the engine sittings

In my experience, cut engine mount causes a hard jerk depending on which of the anti-vibration mount is cut. The feel is different if a front or rear mount is cut. The rear affects reverse and front mount affects forword movement. Non of them causes vibration during taking off.

My dads car is a manual drive which has a cut front mount as i write. No vibration at all during take off but a hard thud during movement arising from deccelerating. You could visualize the gear stick moving during thud.

My car is a manual drive which i have changed pressure plate n clutch plate twice this year. I know how it feels before and after change. Before my 1st change the vibration was bad especially after driving a while. When cold the car feels better but worst as temperature climbs.

However, i expect op to check the engine mounts and brake binding before attempting to change pressure/clutch plate. Brake binding if present can make the clutch seem worst than it is.

given advise without physical examination of the vehicle is not in all cases reasonable. so I advise Segunb to visit ARS (Omole phase 2) for a free vehicle check to ascertain your vehicle issue. call Abayomi on 08164664444 for detail

I reckon that your car has a Dual Mass flywheel that is now badly worn. The flywheel is part of your clutch system and its almost likely that your clutch plates and discs are worn too. The only way of checking these items is by removing the gearbox. Sorry.

I am so grateful to everyone who has taken time out of their busy schedules to advice me in one way or the other -unfortunately all through the week I have been leaving home by 4 and coming back by 10 without the car, I would be at home all day tomorrow and would run the tests and let you all know with feedback.

@Longe: I stay at ogba and am quite close to you, but a close friend is coming with his mechanic in the morning to do some checks. If it doesn't check out I would give you a call tomorrow.

@car-doctor: I pray it doesn't come to this - I just bought the car and haven't even driven it for up to a day.

@ all: I would update you as it goes tomorrow - thank you once again.

Thank you people - a verdict has come o and I would appreciate your advice. Here is what the mechanic that checked said

The front shock absorber are gone - New one 45k
The break drum disks are rusted and needs to be checked - 35k (2nd hand)
Power steering hose is leaking and needs to be checked
Handbrake is not as tight so also needs to be fixed
Exhaust has a leak needs to be patched (hope its not the catalytic converters)
Vehicle needs to go for balancing and alignment - 2k

Summary I don by market - this is a car I have hardly used(its less than 2 weeks old), of all that surprised me its the 'front shock absorber' is there any other way to reconfirm this without causing more damage to the car by driving it around?

@Longe: I don't want to move the car around and cause more damage I would have brought it to your shop for a 2nd check.