I own a 1996 toyota camry of over 335,000km that I purchased close to 2 years ago as Toks. She starts up fine, Drives well and idles correctly and does not throw any codes.
But I have always have this Challenge with the Excessive Fuel consumption right from when I bought the car about 2 years ago and she does not emit black smoke. It is really draining my pocket
Below is the life Data Scanned result from my hand held scanner under 3 different condition:

-------- TRANS IN PARK@IDLE , ----- TRANS IN DRIVE@IDLE ,---- TRANS IN PARK @2500RPM
DTC_CNT ---- 0 , ----- 0 , ---- 0
FUEL SYS 1 ---- CL , ----- CL , ---- CL
FUEL SYS 2 ---- N/A , ----- N/A , ---- N/A
LOAD_PCT(%) ---- BETWEEN 30.6 - 31.4 , ----- BETW 33.8 - 39.6 , ---- 27.5
ECT (F^O) ---- 192 , ----- 196 , ---- 187
SHRT FT 1 (%) ---- BETW -1.6 to +2.3 , ----- BETW -2.3 to +1.6 , ---- BETW -5.5 to +1.6
LONG FT 1 (%) ---- 4.7 , ----- 7.8 , ---- BETW -0.8 to 0.0
MAP(inHg) ---- 9.5 , ----- 11.5 , ----- 8.0
RPM(/MIN) ---- BETW 736 to 760 , ----- 752 , ----- 2540
VSS (MPH) ---- 0 , ----- 0 , ----- 0
SPARK ADV (⁰) ---- 5 , ----- 5 , ------ 37
IAT(F^O) ---- 104 , ----- 124 ,----- 120
TP (%) ---- 12.2 , ----- 12.2 , ----- 16.5
O2SLOCBIS12-B2SO2BISI (V) ---- BETW 0.155 to 0.840 , ----- BETW 0.155 to 0.840 , ----- BETW 0.155 to 0.830
SHRTFTBIS1 % ---- BETW -0.8 to +2.3 , ----- BETW -2.3 to +1.6 , ----- BETW -4.7 to +1.6
02BIS2 (V) ---- BETW 0.065 to 0.125 , ----- BETW 0.085 to 0.145 , ----- BETW 0.065 to 0.135
OBDSUP ---- OBDII , ----- OBDII , ----- OBDII
SYSTEM MONITOR REMARK ---- ALL MONITORS OK , ----- ALL MONITORS OK , ----- ALL MONITORS OK



I notice that immediately I depressed the throttle pedal @idle , I will have the SHRT FT 1 (%) as -10.6 ,LONG FT 1 (%) as +14.8 and MAP(inHg) as 13.8 and they will change almost immediately.

There is no vaccum leak and Air filter is new & ok and my car does not emit black smoke .

The Experts in the house please help. I don’t want to start throwing part.

You failed to tell us the Engine capacity of this car.

It is 4 clyinder 1996 Toyota Camry le (5s 2.2l Engine ) Authomatic Transmission

Experts in the house please say something concerning the live data posted above.

At 86 - 91 degree celsius temperature which your CTS showed, it shows the engine is at optimal temperature, meaning the car appears to have thermostat still intact. Notwithstanding, hope the cooling system thermostat is still in the system? But at 91 degree C, the rpm should be 736 -760 at idle, but not too high though. But it depends on the ignition system. But i would have considered it not normal if the result showed 950-1,200 rpm or so at the 91 degree C. Yes, at 20 degree C, i would say 1000 rpm is ok, since the ECT/CTS is doing its work, since the engine is cold.

As for the TP (TPS), i don't know the factory value of your car TPS at WOT and closed buttery. So I won't comment on it.

But your IAT showed that the outside air entering the intake manifold via airbox is about 49 Degree C. It means the engine is sucking in hot air. Are you staying in the hottest part of Nigeria ? Or is your airbox air inlet tupe disconnected from getting cold air? Otherwise, your airbox is sucking hot air the engine generates, instead of the outside cooler air, unless you have swapped in cone filter. Or that your IAT is faulty?

What's your tyre sizes? Out of factory size?

What about your radiator fan(s)? Still run with factory connection or has been bypassed and connected to spin constantly ?

What fluid do you have in your cooling system? Water or Coolant?

Ikenna

@ Ikenna , Thanks for ur response.

I took a life data scan of my car early this mornining without starting the Car with the Ignition key at the on position and this was what i got:

DTC_CNT == 0
FUEL SYS 1 == OL
FUEL SYS 2 == N/A
LOAD_PCT(%) == NIL
ECT (FO) == 77
SHRT FT 1 (%) == 0.0
LONG FT 1 (%) == 7.8
MAP(inHg) == 29.8
RPM(/MIN) ==0
VSS (MPH) ==NIL
SPARK ADV (0) == 5
IAT(FO) == 77
TP (%) == 13.7
O2SLOCBIS12-B2SO2BISI (V) ==0.005
SHRTFTBIS1 % == 0.0
02BIS2 (V) == 0.010/ 0.015
OBDSUP ==OBDII
SYSTEM MONITOR REMARK

TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION:

1. I reside in Lagos.
2. Cooloing System Thermostat is in the System
3. The fluid in the in the ignition system is both both water and coolant
4. The Tyre size is 205/65/15 and with alloy rim
5. The Radiator fan spins constantly right from when i put ignition key to on. ( I av Checked the relay, the Radiator coolant sensor and wire for any brigde. But seems fine. So i wonder the reason for the continuos spinning)
6.The factory Standard RPM @ idle is -+750 RPM
7. As for the Hot air the Engine was Sucking, i think it was because i was stationed in that position but all the same i will check Air in take tube weda it was shortened.

AREAS OF CONCERN TO ME:

1. Whether the Map sensor is really doing her job and not fooling the ECM and the 02 sensor to inject more Fuel (Considering the High readings.)
2. Whether the 02 are not being lazy (considering their readings and age)
3. The longTerm Fuel Trim readings % is rather low compared to the Standard of 14.7 :1
4. Could it be that injector regulator and Nozzle is rather old, thereby dumping more fuel and if they are:
-won't the Exhaust be emitting black smoke?
-wont I be having flooded engine during Early Morning Engine start up / Engine Start up?
5. Should the LongTerm Fuel Trim readings at any point in time read negative or zero.


I look forward towards your professional and respected contribution

Your Areas of Concern:

1. You keep syaing MAP sensor, but am not sure what you have is MAP sensor. I want to believe its AFM. Troubleshooting is different. Confirm.

2. Your o2 sensor, how many wires does it have on the connector? 1, 3 or 4 wires?

3. I wont comment on this since everything is not equall. Will explain later.

4. I don't understand what you mean by Injector regulator and nozzle. You mean Throttle Body and Injectors? Confirm or explain.\

5. Same as #3.



Now, what you should have in your cooling system is coolant only, not water and coolant, since almost all coolant i have seen in Nigeria are premixed. Unless you imported undiluted coolant. With the present mixture, your cooling system temperature will take longer to rise, meaning, longer duration of excess fuel injected before it gets to optimal temp.

Does your engine have FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)? If it does, have you checked if its passing fuel into the intake manifold via vacuum line on the FPR? Start the engine and pull out the vacuum line on the FPR. If you see any fuel on that line, replace it. I mean the FPR.

As for your radiator fan spinning constantly, you have not checked well. Pull out the fan relay and radiator sensor connector, check for bridge on those connectors where the relay and sensor pins go in. There is a bridge somewhere, you just have to look harder. Your fan spinning at cold engine start will make the ECU to continue to spray in excess fuel for a long time, since the fan is not allowing the coolant to heat up faster.

2,540 rpm at non running engine Weird! Notwithstanding, I prefer to work with parameters values while engine is running, idle or WOT.

Ikenna

Ikenna has answered most of your question up there, however to guess I would say the usual culprits are your O2 sensors, I know you have taken live data via ur scan, try just scanning for fault codes to see if ur ECU throws any and do a simple exhust pipe check.Oh I 4got to add, in the morning B4 you start the engine deep ur hand into the radiator resavour see waht the temp feels like if its completely room temp or warm.

The 2,540 was a typo . The Engine was not running and the rpm was 0 by the scan. I will modify that and answer ur Question

Ikenna351: Your Areas of Concern:



2,540 rpm at non running engine Weird! Notwithstanding, I prefer to work with parameters values while engine is running, idle or WOT.

Ikenna

Ikenna351: Your Areas of Concern:

1. You keep syaing MAP sensor, but am not sure what you have is MAP sensor. I want to believe its AFM. Troubleshooting is different. Confirm.

2. Your o2 sensor, how many wires does it have on the connector? 1, 3 or 4 wires?

4. I don't understand what you mean by Injector regulator and nozzle. You mean Throttle Body and Injectors? Confirm or explain.\


Now, what you should have in your cooling system is coolant only, not water and coolant, since almost all coolant i have seen in Nigeria are premixed. Unless you imported undiluted coolant. With the present mixture, your cooling system temperature will take longer to rise, meaning, longer duration of excess fuel injected before it gets to optimal temp.

Does your engine have FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)? If it does, have you checked if its passing fuel into the intake manifold via vacuum line on the FPR? Start the engine and pull out the vacuum line on the FPR. If you see any fuel on that line, replace it. I mean the FPR.

As for your radiator fan spinning constantly, you have not checked well. Pull out the fan relay and radiator sensor connector, check for bridge on those connectors where the relay and sensor pins go in. There is a bridge somewhere, you just have to look harder. Your fan spinning at cold engine start will make the ECU to continue to spray in excess fuel for a long time, since the fan is not allowing the coolant to heat up faster.

Ikenna

1. My model of camry uses Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor located at the Firewall close to the throttle body is located and Air flow Meter (AFM) located in the Air Filter Chamber.
2. My model uses 2 Oxygen sensor as the Air/Fuel sensor and Cat Monitor. They both have 2 wire being Blue and White
3. By "Injector Regulator" , I mean Fuel Pressure Regulator and by "Nozzle" I mean Injector Nozzle.
4. As to the coolant, I will work on that. I thought what we have in Nigeria is the standard Abroad.
5. This fan that is spining constantly is really an headache oh. I will check again where the Bridge might be hiding because i have Checked everywhere Checkable before and it is becoming embarassing.
6. I pulled the Fuel Pressure Regulator Hose/Line with the Engine running as you instructed and there was no fuel in it. But I notice that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was not sucking Air. I even used my thumb to cover the hose and then release it to see whether it will suck my thumb.i didnt feel any suck from the regulator. Should that be case. I thought i should suck Air or is it controlled by the ECM?

Thanks

i await your response.

^^

1. Since you have confirmed it's MAP, I would leave the MAP as it is for now, but make sure the connector is not corroded and the vacuum line leaking.

2. Since you said your o2 have two wires each, they will have no heater. It also means the o2 get their get their ground supply from the thread. The two wires should ECU signal wires and 12v+ supply from either relay or fuse. Get a DMM, disconnect the o2, test any of the two wires (i think the white) from the engine harness end, you should get 12v. As for the other (maybe the blue), connect the connector/socket back, start the car and probe the wire. Signal wire should give you less than 1v, when connected while engine is running.

5. If you are sure the radiator sensor is the fan trigger by factory, switch on the ignition. While the fan is spinning, pull out the connector on the radiator sensor, to see if the fan will stop spinning. From your findings, we will take it from there.

Ikenna

I have tried that in the past/ Earlier in the cause of finding solution to the continous spinning of the Fan. The fan kept on spinning at that (Pulling out the connector on the radiator sensor and switching on the Ignition.)

I will try it again once i get home.

Ikenna351: ^^

5. If you are sure the radiator sensor is the fan trigger by factory, switch on the ignition. While the fan is spinning, pull out the connector on the radiator sensor, to see if the fan will stop spinning. From your findings, we will take it from there.

Ikenna

Ikenna351: ^^

2. Since you said your o2 have two wires each, they will have no heater. It also means the o2 get their get their ground supply from the thread. The two wires should ECU signal wires and 12v+ supply from either relay or fuse. Get a DMM, disconnect the o2, test any of the two wires (i think the white) from the engine harness end, you should get 12v. As for the other (maybe the blue), connect the connector/socket back, start the car and probe the wire. Signal wire should give you less than 1v, when connected while engine is running.

Ikenna

I will carry out the test on the 02 sensor once i get home.

i will get back to you
Thanks in a million for your concern and Time

issy1500: I own a 1996 toyota camry of over 335,000km that I purchased close to 2 years ago as Toks. She starts up fine, Drives well and idles correctly and does not throw any codes.
But I have always have this Challenge with the Excessive Fuel consumption right from when I bought the car about 2 years ago and she does not emit black smoke. It is really draining my pocket
Below is the life Data Scanned result from my hand held scanner under 3 different condition:

-------- TRANS IN PARK@IDLE , ----- TRANS IN DRIVE@IDLE ,---- TRANS IN PARK @2500RPM
DTC_CNT ---- 0 , ----- 0 , ---- 0
FUEL SYS 1 ---- CL , ----- CL , ---- CL
FUEL SYS 2 ---- N/A , ----- N/A , ---- N/A
LOAD_PCT(%) ---- BETWEEN 30.6 - 31.4 , ----- BETW 33.8 - 39.6 , ---- 27.5
ECT (F^O) ---- 192 , ----- 196 , ---- 187
SHRT FT 1 (%) ---- BETW -1.6 to +2.3 , ----- BETW -2.3 to +1.6 , ---- BETW -5.5 to +1.6
LONG FT 1 (%) ---- 4.7 , ----- 7.8 , ---- BETW -0.8 to 0.0
MAP(inHg) ---- 9.5 , ----- 11.5 , ----- 8.0
RPM(/MIN) ---- BETW 736 to 760 , ----- 752 , ----- 2540
VSS (MPH) ---- 0 , ----- 0 , ----- 0
SPARK ADV (⁰) ---- 5 , ----- 5 , ------ 37
IAT(F^O) ---- 104 , ----- 124 ,----- 120
TP (%) ---- 12.2 , ----- 12.2 , ----- 16.5
O2SLOCBIS12-B2SO2BISI (V) ---- BETW 0.155 to 0.840 , ----- BETW 0.155 to 0.840 , ----- BETW 0.155 to 0.830
SHRTFTBIS1 % ---- BETW -0.8 to +2.3 , ----- BETW -2.3 to +1.6 , ----- BETW -4.7 to +1.6
02BIS2 (V) ---- BETW 0.065 to 0.125 , ----- BETW 0.085 to 0.145 , ----- BETW 0.065 to 0.135
OBDSUP ---- OBDII , ----- OBDII , ----- OBDII
SYSTEM MONITOR REMARK ---- ALL MONITORS OK , ----- ALL MONITORS OK , ----- ALL MONITORS OK



I notice that immediately I depressed the throttle pedal @idle , I will have the SHRT FT 1 (%) as -10.6 ,LONG FT 1 (%) as +14.8 and MAP(inHg) as 13.8 and they will change almost immediately.

There is no vaccum leak and Air filter is new & ok and my car does not emit black smoke .

The Experts in the house please help. I don’t want to start throwing part.

Normaal voltage range for O2 sensors are 0.1 to 0.9 volts.
Your o2 sensor voltage parameter reading for for Bank1 is ok. The voltage reading for Bank2 O2 sensor is quite high. That may be the reason why your car is consuming much fuel.

Change your bank 2 sensor and also check if all temperature sensors are connected.

Also check to see why your radiator fan is on continuous operation. This could cause the electronic sytems to remain in closed loop for extended periods thus leaving the auto choke on for too long.

Also check the type of spark plugs in the engine. Your car manufacturer recommends Platinum or Iridium plugs and not copper ones.

Let's know how you get on. Good luck.

Car-Doctor.

erico2k2:
Oh I 4got to add, in the morning B4 you start the engine deep ur hand into the radiator resavour see waht the temp feels like if its completely room temp or warm.

I tried that this morning at about 7.10am and Coolant in the reservour was a little colder that the outside temperature.One would feel it that it is relatively cold just a bit sha.

So what does that mean?


Hope to hear the result of my test
Thanks for your concern

car-doctor:


Normaal voltage range for O2 sensors are 0.1 to 0.9 volts.
Your o2 sensor voltage parameter reading for for Bank1 is ok. The voltage reading for Bank2 O2 sensor is quite high. That may be the reason why your car is consuming much fuel.

Change your bank 2 sensor and also check if all temperature sensors are connected.

Also check to see why your radiator fan is on continuous operation. This could cause the electronic sytems to remain in closed loop for extended periods thus leaving the auto choke on for too long.

Also check the type of spark plugs in the engine. Your car manufacturer recommends Platinum or Iridium plugs and not copper ones.

Let's know how you get on. Good luck.

Car-Doctor.

I copy that. I will work on it and get back to you should I need further clarifications.
But where one get OEM iridium plugs in lagos? All this new plugs are bunch of scrap.

Am using this medium to thank you guys for being there for us.
On behalf of every body, Thanks.