i drive a 2000 model toyota sienna, i need to change the engine oil, the recommended engine oil is 5w30, on getting to the market i saw
1. MRS premiere 5w40 at #6600
2. MRS premiere 10w40 at #6400
3. forte viscoo 0w40 #6800 fully synthetic
4. mobil quartz i didn't see the rating but the guy said it is fully synthetic #8000

now the dilema is that my odo reading is 90,000+ though i am guessing the odo has been messes with (carfax gave me 298000+) but the engine is still smooth and doesn't look or drive like old.
please gurus i need you to explain can i use the fully synthetic one i.e forte oil visco something something with oil rating 0w40 for a year and can any one verify if MRS oil is ok. And concerning that my engine is old which would you advice. note the engine isnt leaking oil or having oil shortage and the oil in it came with the car 4months old, the mech advice we change it.

thanks in advance

I will answer your question by sharing with you what I do.

I have 146,000 on my odometer and I have used Mobil 1 0w-40 (severally) and Forte Synth10000 (just once currently), no leaking from any seals, no shortage, no trouble. Before switching to Mobil1 I used the common 20w-50 and somewhere between 3,000 miles and 5,000 miles, I would start getting low oil pressure warnings on my dash. Since the switch, the oil pressure warning light does not even come on at start up in the morning like it used to do with conventional oil, although it comes on at every other restart during the day. I do 5,000 miles no oil pressure warning light, 6,000 miles the same thing, even 7,500 miles the same thing. So it seems to me synthetic is clearly better.

I have never used 5w30 although that is recommended. But I intend to switch and you should too I feel. I will do that during my next oil change will be anywhere between 5,000 and 7,500 miles from the last oil change at 145,600 depending on how I feel. At that oil change, I intend to switch to Mobil1 5w30 Extended Performance. I hope I notice a difference! Seems 5w-30 is lighter than 5w-40 which should translate to better fuel economy than I can ever hope to attain with 5w-40 or 0w-40!

I don't recommend 2. MRS premiere 10w40 at #6400 ( i don't even know if it is synthetic although the price makes me suspect it is), assuming 1. MRS premiere 5w40 at #6600 is synthetic I would recommend it, just as I would recommend Forte Synth10000.

I am hearing of MRS Premiere for the very first time. Can you share a picture of the same?

I haven't used Mobil Quartz, and I would not recommend using oil whose rating is in doubt. But i strongly suspect its a synthetic. Did you mean to say Total Quartz, not sure I have heard of Mobil Quartz before

My vehicle manual recommends conventional oil, and conventional oil changes at 3,000 miles and filter changes at 5,000 miles. Since going synthetic, I have replaced the oil at 5,000 or 6,000 or 7,500 miles severally without issues and the filter at the same time, although once or twice, I changed the filter midway but kept the oil up to 8,000 miles or changed the oil without changing the filter in effect doing 10,000 miles on 1 high capacity oil filter without issue.

My recommendation is this - go synthetic, if the seals fails, they were already bad and should simply be replaced and the leakage will stop.

If you decide to do just one or 2 oil changes a year, then by all means get a high-mileage oil filter to go along with it.

But since it is a Toyota which is known for sludge issues, please replace the oil and the filter on a strict 5,000 miles schedule if using synthetic and 3,000 miles if using dyno.

I would even recommend until sooperrescue suggests otherwise to accompany every oil change with engine oil sludge treatment just to be on the safe side. Online research seems to favour AutoRX, Schaeffer's Neutra every 50,000 miles or thereabout.

The oil sludge problem appears to come from using dyno oil, short trips and trying to do 7,500 mile Oil change intervals. Hope this link helps you:http://www.hometheaterforum.com/topic/116001-oil-sludge-in-engine-how-to-get-rid-of-it-toyota-sienna/

And do not forget, the fact that you are using synthetic does not mean that you will not check the oil levels constantly at least twice a week say on monday and friday.

Seems you do not even know what oil came with the car. Even more reason to change it ASAP

thank you IdaraCHODB, well actually since it is uk used, the oil change was done over there but it came from canada, cold weather so i guess our temp may affect the oil that was used there. Also i noticed recently it may be taking time to kick the car to start but no light comes on the dash board.

Also the mobil may not be quartz i actually forgot what the guy called it but he said the mobile is fiully synthetic, sorry didnt have time to take pictures of all the fuel but will definetely take as soon as i can get one. But i think i will go for the forte fully synthetic 0w40. thanks

IdaraCHODB: I will answer your question by sharing with you what I do.

I have 146,000 on my odometer and I have used Mobil 1 0w-40 (severally) and Forte Synth10000 (just once currently), no leaking from any seals, no shortage, no trouble. Before switching to Mobil1 I used the common 20w-50 and somewhere between 3,000 miles and 5,000 miles, I would start getting low oil pressure warnings on my dash. Since the switch, the oil pressure warning light does not even come on at start up in the morning like it used to do with conventional oil, although it comes on at every other restart during the day. I do 5,000 miles no oil pressure warning light, 6,000 miles the same thing, even 7,500 miles the same thing. So it seems to me synthetic is clearly better.

I have never used 5w30 although that is recommended. But I intend to switch and you should too I feel. I will do that during my next oil change will be anywhere between 5,000 and 7,500 miles from the last oil change at 145,600 depending on how I feel. At that oil change, I intend to switch to Mobil1 5w30 Extended Performance. I hope I notice a difference! Seems 5w-30 is lighter than 5w-40 which should translate to better fuel economy than I can ever hope to attain with 5w-40 or 0w-40!

I don't recommend 2. MRS premiere 10w40 at #6400 ( i don't even know if it is synthetic although the price makes me suspect it is), assuming 1. MRS premiere 5w40 at #6600 is synthetic I would recommend it, just as I would recommend Forte Synth10000.

I am hearing of MRS Premiere for the very first time. Can you share a picture of the same?

I haven't used Mobil Quartz, and I would not recommend using oil whose rating is in doubt. But i strongly suspect its a synthetic. Did you mean to say Total Quartz, not sure I have heard of Mobil Quartz before

My vehicle manual recommends conventional oil, and conventional oil changes at 3,000 miles and filter changes at 5,000 miles. Since going synthetic, I have replaced the oil at 5,000 or 6,000 or 7,500 miles severally without issues and the filter at the same time, although once or twice, I changed the filter midway but kept the oil up to 8,000 miles or changed the oil without changing the filter in effect doing 10,000 miles on 1 high capacity oil filter without issue.

My recommendation is this - go synthetic, if the seals fails, they were already bad and should simply be replaced and the leakage will stop.

If you decide to do just one or 2 oil changes a year, then by all means get a high-mileage oil filter to go along with it.

But since it is a Toyota which is known for sludge issues, please replace the oil and the filter on a strict 5,000 miles schedule if using synthetic and 3,000 miles if using dyno.

I would even recommend until sooperrescue suggests otherwise to accompany every oil change with engine oil sludge treatment just to be on the safe side. Online research seems to favour AutoRX, Schaeffer's Neutra every 50,000 miles or thereabout.

The oil sludge problem appears to come from using dyno oil, short trips and trying to do 7,500 mile Oil change intervals. Hope this link helps you:http://www.hometheaterforum.com/topic/116001-oil-sludge-in-engine-how-to-get-rid-of-it-toyota-sienna/

And do not forget, the fact that you are using synthetic does not mean that you will not check the oil levels constantly at least twice a week say on monday and friday.

Seems you do not even know what oil came with the car. Even more reason to change it ASAP

Where can one find Mobil1 5w30 Extended Performance in Nigeria? I dont think it is avialable at Mobil filling stations

nurey: i drive a 2000 model toyota sienna, i need to change the engine oil, the recommended engine oil is 5w30, on getting to the market i saw
1. MRS premiere 5w40 at #6600
2. MRS premiere 10w40 at #6400
3. forte viscoo 0w40 #6800 fully synthetic
4. mobil quartz i didn't see the rating but the guy said it is fully synthetic #8000

now the dilema is that my odo reading is 90,000+ though i am guessing the odo has been messes with (carfax gave me 298000+) but the engine is still smooth and doesn't look or drive like old.
please gurus i need you to explain can i use the fully synthetic one i.e forte oil visco something something with oil rating 0w40 for a year and can any one verify if MRS oil is ok. And concerning that my engine is old which would you advice. note the engine isnt leaking oil or having oil shortage and the oil in it came with the car 4months old, the mech advice we change it.

thanks in advance

Get one of them Sync, built for High mileage, and put at the back of your mind to let go of your car ie, sell it soon.Nxt time do the check B4 buying as humans are wicked

erico2k2:
Get one of them Sync, built for High mileage, and put at the back of your mind to let go of your car ie, sell it soon.Nxt time do the check B4 buying as humans are wicked

thanks erico2k2 but nothing is wrong with the car infact if not for the vin check you wont know there was a roll back the interior as clean as a new car, the engine itself is clean and performs optimally, but i wasnt the one who made the purchase it was my inlaw on behalf of the family and he is really learned, thats why he personally asked me to decide the engine oil to use since i am the major driver of the sienna

nurey:

thanks erico2k2 but nothing is wrong with the car infact if not for the vin check you wont know there was a roll back the interior as clean as a new car, the engine itself is clean and performs optimally, but i wasnt the one who made the purchase it was my inlaw on behalf of the family and he is really learned, thats why he personally asked me to decide the engine oil to use since i am the major driver of the sienna

No probs, but for the real mileage of the car, there are bound to be issues, you are not a mech hence you don't know yet, fi you scan teh car within few months things will appear,If you look at footballers their age would be like 32 but they look 42,this is as a result of stress caused by training and sporting, same is the car.SO put waht I told you at the back of your mind In other words Enjoy your car still

@Nurey & IdaraCHODB

I used to drive a 2004 Honda Accord 3.0 V6 and used 5w-20 ( Pennzoil ) , 5w-30 ( Mobil 1 ) , 0w-40 ( Mobil 1 ), 5w-40 ( Cepsa ), 20w-50 ( Forte ) and 20W-50 ( Mobil XHP ) over the 6 yrs i had the car. I also used Auto RX to clean the internals of the car.

My driving experience was better with the 5w-20, 5w-30 and 5w-40 viscosities. There was less pedal effort and i got slightly better fuel economy. Auto RX affected my seals and i had to switch to a much higher viscosity ( 20w-50 ) to contain the resultant oil seal damage.

My advise is avoid treatments if you can. Identify and stick to very good oil. They already contain the necessary additives.

Mobil is a good name but bear in mind that the Mobil 1 sold in Nigeria is of the viscosity 0w-40 and is made in Egypt. This is clearly written on the bottle. It is not the same Mobil 1 sourced from Europe or America.

The same goes for our local oils. They are advertised as 20w-50 but who knows what they really are ? What do you really know about the quality of base oil and additives used in preparing what we see as the final product? If they get it wrong who will penalise them? Do you know that we still have a lot of oils that are being sold and are API SF, SG, and SH rated ? These oils are for much older cars ( see attached ) yet our petrol stations are recommending them for 2000 - 2014 cars. ABRO even sells a viscosity that is SD rated !

If you can lay your hands on imported / genuine 5w-30 for your car please grab it! The brand is not particularly relevant. Just ensure that it has the API starburst and Donut symbol and is a minumum of API SJ.

My 2 cents.