MEN!!!!!!! ECU has being change twice no improvement another thing is that when the new ECU has being installed it will run for just 5sec after that it stalls after that everything will be as good as dead....new ideas on how to go about it and again a colleague of mine sad something aboutan ASD relay i don't really know for sure if thats the root cause of all the trouble......

security, you must program the new ecu to accept the key Fob, that is to say that the vehicle ID number or VIN, in the ECU does not match that of the car, since that ecu was taken from another car, look aroud on the dashboard, you should be able to see either a key sign, or a security light on, it thinks you are a thief, you must call a technician with a dealer level scan tool to program it for you.
What happened to the original ECU?

Was the car scanned? If yes what fault error (s) was gotten? If no go and get the car scanned

chuks1137:
MEN!!!!!!! ECU has being change twice no improvement another thing is that when the new ECU has being installed it will run for just 5sec after that it stalls after that everything will be as good as dead....new ideas on how to go about it and again a colleague of mine sad something aboutan ASD relay i don't really know for sure if thats the root cause of all the trouble......

Call @08061166316 ,we will give you a remote support on how to get this car running.

Why ask for help now when the truck has been cannibalized

You let a mechanic mess thing they don't understand up.

Never work on a car without computer diagnosis, no excuse acceptable.

No crank no start is always

Spark
Fuel
Air
Compression

incase you want to sell the car,call me 07067866986

chuks1137:
MEN!!!!!!! ECU has being change twice no improvement another thing is that when the new ECU has being installed it will run for just 5sec after that it stalls after that everything will be as good as dead....new ideas on how to go about it and again a colleague of mine sad something aboutan ASD relay i don't really know for sure if thats the root cause of all the trouble......

Oh boy, it seems as if you murdered this car, I have exact same car.
you might start telling us how it got to this stage from the start.
This car do not need any diagnostic tool, it diagnoses itself on the dashboard.

erico2k2:

Oh boy, it seems as if you murdered this car, I have exact same car.
you might start telling us how it got to this stage from the start.
This car do not need any diagnostic tool, it diagnoses itself on the dashboard.

See me see trouble this is how american cars are made to look really bad, the electronics and modules of different brands are not the same, a simple thing as gear not all the way in park, low battery as low as 11.2volts instead of 12.5v might cause starting problems.

did they even know if the starter is bad?

I copied this off the internet, remember that if the security is on the car will crank but not start

So I don't know what your mechanic was doing with the steering wirings
The starting system consists of:
Starter motor (including an integral starter solenoid)
Other components to be considered as part of starting system are:
Battery
Battery cables
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder
Clutch pedal position switch (manual transmission)
Park/neutral position switch (automatic transmission)
Wire harnesses and connections.
The Battery, Starting, and Charging systems operate in conjunction with one another, and must be tested as a complete system. For correct operation of starting/charging systems, all components used in these 3 systems must perform within specifications. When attempting to diagnose any of these systems, it is important that you keep their interdependency in mind.
The diagnostic procedures used in each of these groups include the most basic conventional diagnostic methods, to the more sophisticated On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) built into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Use of an induction-type milliampere ammeter, volt/ohmmeter, battery charger, carbon pile rheostat (load tester), and 12-volt test lamp may be required.

Turn your lights on and try this. When you turn the key to "start" do the lights dim?
If they do then you have draw going to the starter but not cranking - possibility of a bad starter.

It sounds like you did that since you say "all the lights turn off when i get to position 4(starter) on my ignition" it sounds like excessive starter draw and the starter needs replacing or there is a short to ground either in the starter or in the wiring going to it.

If they don't dim then you have no power going to the starter - could be a bad ignition switch, bad wiring, a bad fuse or a problem with the Totally Integrated power module (TIPM - see sticky's).

A bad transponder key will allow it to crank but not run.


Do you have the 5 speed or CVT? With it in Park or Neural you could try and take some jumper cables, connect the negative cable to the starter housing (it is the ground) and just touch the positive cable to the terminal where the positive battery cable screws down and see if it cranks, if not replace the starter.

sultaan:


See me see trouble this is how american cars are made to look really bad, the electronics and modules of different brands are not the same, a simple thing as gear not all the way in park, low battery as low as 11.2volts instead of 12.5v might cause starting problems.

did they even know if the starter is bad?

I copied this off the internet, remember that if the security is on the car will crank but not start

So I don't know what your mechanic was doing with the steering wirings
The starting system consists of:
Starter motor (including an integral starter solenoid)
Other components to be considered as part of starting system are:
Battery
Battery cables
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder
Clutch pedal position switch (manual transmission)
Park/neutral position switch (automatic transmission)
Wire harnesses and connections.
The Battery, Starting, and Charging systems operate in conjunction with one another, and must be tested as a complete system. For correct operation of starting/charging systems, all components used in these 3 systems must perform within specifications. When attempting to diagnose any of these systems, it is important that you keep their interdependency in mind.
The diagnostic procedures used in each of these groups include the most basic conventional diagnostic methods, to the more sophisticated On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) built into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Use of an induction-type milliampere ammeter, volt/ohmmeter, battery charger, carbon pile rheostat (load tester), and 12-volt test lamp may be required.

Turn your lights on and try this. When you turn the key to "start" do the lights dim?
If they do then you have draw going to the starter but not cranking - possibility of a bad starter.

It sounds like you did that since you say "all the lights turn off when i get to position 4(starter) on my ignition" it sounds like excessive starter draw and the starter needs replacing or there is a short to ground either in the starter or in the wiring going to it.

If they don't dim then you have no power going to the starter - could be a bad ignition switch, bad wiring, a bad fuse or a problem with the Totally Integrated power module (TIPM - see sticky's).

A bad transponder key will allow it to crank but not run.


Do you have the 5 speed or CVT? With it in Park or Neural you could try and take some jumper cables, connect the negative cable to the starter housing (it is the ground) and just touch the positive cable to the terminal where the positive battery cable screws down and see if it cranks, if not replace the starter.

Or Ignition switch completly dead or Pin/fiber broken, mayB thats why the electrician was ripping wires out to short the switch, this is common with this car as I had to buy mine too.Ignition switch and actuator.