GeorgeD1:
as promised earlier, i have been on my 260ah 12pcs zenith batteries since 2012. it's been a remarkable
journey no doubt, especially given all the lament on here about lead acid batteries and their poor durability.
7 years and counting and my batteries seemed to just go on and on. at a point i almost became confused
as to why i was having such a nice time with lead acid while the general opinion was anything but pleasant.
maybe i was just plain lucky or maybe i was doing something right afterall...
the jury is still out on this...

.... still bothered about how your supplier unceremoniously stopped stocking them before some of us could partake of the goodness named Zenith batteries.

So, my three and a half year old US batteries sprouted weak and dead cells within a weak of heavy usage with poor insolation. Enter panic mode. I cut down utilization to barest minimum for about a week; when that wasn't cutting it, I began daily equalization cycles after daily absorb termination. A week of daily equalizing seemed aggravate the situation with the weak cells seemingly dying too. I had begun doing the rounds of local lithium merchants when lady luck smiled upon with good fortune.

A routine check of a car in the yard before a trip revealed an item previously forgotten - an Infinitum desulphator! Every vehicle in the family has one installed and average battery lifespan has since been 3 - 4 years (even with abuse). I was bound to have a few in the store so I ransacked the darker corners and found one each of the 24V and 12V types. Immediately rearranged the batteries that night such that the sole battery without issues would be the one excluded from the desulphators (I run a primary bank of 48V nominal)

48 hours later and the weak cells began showing signs of life. Enter the dragon. Daily equalizations with end-of-week dilution of the weak and dead cells. After a week, the weak cells had sprung to life while one of the dead cells showed the barest signs of life. The other dead cells wouldn't even bubble nor change colour (healthy cells had electrolyte turned brown from vigorous boiling).

End of second week and all cells showed signs of life, however little. Middle of third week and all had resumed regular vicious boiling with equalization. Alternate day/once in three days equalization halted.

We are now entering the fourth week of desulphator use (remember I ran two weeks of conditioning without them and the cells went almost beyond salvage). From registering 47V within an hour of sundown and either dying before dawn or waking to 39V, I now have at worst 49V at bedtime (82 - 88%) and 48V at daybreak (73 - 82%). Batteries have inevitably lost some capacity over the years. My nighttime/overnight load is still 200W or less (typically about 150W nighttime, 100W overnight - inverter consumption added).

I should mention the bank had HA02 balancers installed from inception. I said it a few years ago and would like to reiterate now : snake oil or not, reliable desulphators work!

Ladder logic download link in PDF

https://u.pcloud/publink/show?code=XZWyC5XZiGIzV9ALidYIB9MYBtKv7LKWn5Cy

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FwpHlkpHLgItr4S9WhTX8eqImWoy2YMR/view?usp=drivesdk

The file is more than 250kb , I can't upload on nairaland.

Hello gurus,
Based on guidance from this platform,I plan to have two 5kva 48v inverters (4 batteries in parallel for each totaling 16 tubular batteries). Can I use a single Solar mmpt CC to charge the batteries? If so, will it be a 96 v CC?

Siemens LOGO Data logging in excel.

danowena:
Hello gurus,
Based on guidance from this platform,I plan to have two 5kva 48v inverters (4 batteries in parallel for each totaling 16 tubular batteries). Can I use a single Solar mmpt CC to charge the batteries? If so, will it be a 96 v CC?

You didn't state the capacity of the battery, why do you also need 2 inverters, is it due to your load?
That said, note this for a start, If your battery is in 48v then your CC must be 48v compatible not 98v

danowena:
Hello gurus,
Based on guidance from this platform,I plan to have two 5kva 48v inverters (4 batteries in parallel for each totaling 16 tubular batteries). Can I use a single Solar mmpt CC to charge the batteries? If so, will it be a 96 v CC?

Will say u use 2 CC for it to work well 48v as it is in d inverter and battery

ojesymsym:
Wow, finally some who deploys PLCs for home applications. Can I see your wirings drawings.
For a simple home application, you went for the expensive semens?

I don't have wiring drawings on paper. The wiring is quite straightforward, I have it in my head.

Siemens LOGO!8 is about 34,000 naira on AliExpress.
I went for Siemens PLC because of their flexibility, ruggedness and durability ( industrial standard).

adrusa:
A sonoff basic with a BMV or another battery monitor can give a fine grained control of freezer and water pump better than these analogue methods. With a raspberry pi, running node red, the possibilities are endless; running the freezer only within a time period, running freezer only when the battery is charging, within a certain SOC or within a voltage range.

PLC , programmable logic controllers, are not "analogue method" as you stated. PLCs generally handle analog (discrete) such your solar panel voltage and current, battery voltages and digital values such freezer/pump on, 0ff.

For anyone with basic programming skill, a glance into the ladder logic I uploaded will give the ideal of the almost endless configuration/ control that you achieve with PLC.

In the ladder logic I uploaded, I preferentially start and stop the freezers and pump based on solar power being produced. Battery voltage also can start and stop the loads, freezers and pump, . Built into the ladder logic I uploaded are number of timers; on-delay, off-delays, weekly and yearly timers, astronomical clocks, counter , resets, trip signals etc to ensure Safe and optimal performance.

I opted for PLC because I want to run my loads, start and stop freezers/pump, based on the available solar power production optimally without deeping into the battery.

With PLC , remote monitoring and datalogging can easily be achieved.

ojeysky:


You didn't state the capacity of the battery, why do you also need 2 inverters, is it due to your load?
That said, note this for a start, If your battery is in 48v then your CC must be 48v compatible not 98v

wilmaria14:

Will say u use 2 CC for it to work well 48v as it is in d inverter and battery

Thanks a lot.
The Batteries are 12 V 200ah to be connected in series to make the 48 V (4 batteries in series). Yes, I need the 2 inverters because of the load as I initially planned using 10kva 180 volt inverter which I was strongly advised not to use.
So, that said, it means I will use two 48v CC of say 100A?
Another question that comes to kind now is how to get power to the two CC. Should I give them different panels? I plan to buy about 32panels, should I wire it in such a way that 16 panels are charging one whilst another 16 is charging another? Or is there a device that can split the charging into the CC or is it by simply connecting power from the wire that comes from the panel and splitting it into the two CCs? I am a novice so don’t mind my rudimentary questions.
Because we needed to cast compound, we made provision for the DC wire that will come from the roof. We used two 4mm wire for a height of about 12 metres. Is the 4mm sufficient to carry the current from 32 panels of 320 watts?
Your responses will be highly appreciated.

NairaBaba:


PLC , programmable logic controllers, are not "analogue method" as you stated. PLCs generally handle analog( discrete) such your solar panel voltage and current, battery voltages and digital values such freezer/pump on, 0ff.

For anyone with basic programming skill, a glance into the ladder logic I uploaded will give the ideal of the almost endless configuration/ control that you achieve with PLC.

In the ladder logic I uploaded, I preferentially start and stop the freezers and pump based on solar power being produced. Battery voltage also can start and stop the loads, freezers and pump, . Built into the ladder logic I uploaded are number of timers; on-delay, off-delays, weekly and yearly timers, astronomical clocks, counter , resets, trip signals etc to ensure Safe and optimal performance.

I opted for PLC because I want to run my loads, start and stop freezers/pump, based on the available solar power production optimally without deeping into the battery.

With PLC , remote monitoring and datalogging can easily be achieved.

This is very good for someone that is off grid. Is this PLC different from the solar charge controller or does it also do the work of the solar charge controller. If not, how does it come-in in the wiring?is before the cc or after the cc or after the inverter?

danowena:




Thanks a lot.
The Batteries are 12 V 200ah to be connected in series to make the 48 V (4 batteries in series). Yes, I need the 2 inverters because of the load as I initially planned using 10kva 180 volt inverter which I was strongly advised not to use.
So, that said, it means I will use two 48v CC of say 100A?
Another question that comes to kind now is how to get power to the two CC. Should I give them different panels? I plan to buy about 32panels, should I wire it in such a way that 16 panels are charging one whilst another 16 is charging another? Or is there a device that can split the charging into the CC or is it by simply connecting power from the wire that comes from the panel and splitting it into the two CCs? I am a novice so don’t mind my rudimentary questions.
Because we needed to cast compound, we made provision for the DC wire that will come from the roof. We used two 4mm wire for a height of about 12 metres. Is the 4mm sufficient to carry the current from 32 panels of 320 watts?
Your responses will be highly appreciated.

This is a little significant set-up. I will try to summarize but I strongly recommend you get a techie to work with you on this.

1. Okay your inverter will need to support parallel option so that the output from the 2 inverters can be literally combined else you will need to separate the loads across both inverters

2. You could just get 2 hybrids and be done with but if you prefer standalone, need 2 CC with at least 80A, I suggest the 250v/100A victron or any other spec close to that.

3. Your wire guage is not sufficient, you should be fine with a 10mm guage (preferably 16mm) assuming you get the higher voltage CC such as the one recommended above

4. You will need to wire the CC in 2 arrays. How you then connect an array will all depend on the kind of Panels you are getting with regards to the max VOC of the panel

5. Each cc output wire will then need to go on the terminals of each of the 2 groups of 48v batteries as well.

Kindly note that the above is just summarised to give you an idea, there is more details to it than this but that should get you started.
All the best.

ojeysky:


This is a little significant set-up. I will try to summarize but I strongly recommend you get a techie to work with you on this.

1. Okay your inverter will need to support parallel option so that the output from the 2 inverters can be literally combined else you will need to separate the loads across both inverters

2. You could just get 2 hybrids and be done with but if you prefer standalone, need 2 CC with at least 80A, I suggest the 250v/100A victron or any other spec close to that.

3. Your wire guage is not sufficient, you should be fine with a 10mm guage (preferably 16mm) assuming you get the higher voltage CC such as the one recommended above

4. You will need to wire the CC in 2 arrays. How you then connect an array will all depend on the kind of Panels you are getting with regards to the max VOC of the panel

5. Each cc output wire will then need to go on the terminals of each of the 2 groups of 48v batteries as well.

Kindly note that the above is just summarised to give you an idea, there is more details to it than this but that should get you started.
All the best.

Wow, thanks for the elaborate response.

1. My inverter is Sukam. I doubt it supports parallel output. Not sure though but we are separating loads.
2. The Victron 250/100 is almost 450k . Can the hybrid do same job? I understand the Victron can help you monitor your loads and even switch some off.
3. I will have to change the wires. What a waste. I will go for the 16mm so I can harness as much as possible.
4. Is understood.
5. Is understood.
Thank you so much.

babaegun:
So if you are like me with affinity for hot water bathe, you will agree that, there is no greater joy like having it flow directly from you tap non-stop for a couple of minutes just to cool your body.

Everyday after returning home from a hard days work, I retire to my home and quickly take a hot shower just to ensure my body system returns back to its normal setting. I enjoy hot water therapy everyday as a pain reliever which makes me feel better. I sleep well and wake up energized. This is like a luxury which i couldn't enjoy as my 30 litres Ariston heater could not give it to my heart desire. Also, since I started solar, I have moved the Ariston heaters in my house to it and the effect on my solar setup is not nice at all as it could be cloudy for days. Also, I always turn off power from the Ariston heaters then too as I wouldn't want any electric shock as you may not know when things can go wrong.

So with the desire to achieve that (after saving some coins anyway ), I quickly put a call to JUO to supply me with a Solar Water heater, let me just give it a try as I have seen the wonders it did to GeorgeD1 few years back. Without delay, the package arrived all the way from Warri. I didn't hesitate to set it up despite the fact that it is still raining heavily in Abuja. And my plumber was able to re-route the pipes to conform with the new solar water heater connection. It is a non-pressurized one so I added Pressure pump to it and its been amazing. Hot water gushes out like hell fire

My brothers and sisters, that's how I have been enjoying unlimited hot water in my house. Morning, Afternoon and Night. My kids self are not left out. Enjoyment. But really, the technology is amazing. It is amazing that the hot water could stay overnight and still stays hot. I still have to use the mixer to regulate it else, the hotness is enough to scald bodi ooo.

So what I also noticed was that, when you turn it on, you will first experience cold water and it depends on the length of your pipes before the hot water starts rushing out. It is worth giving a try. Am enjoying it.

Now my batteries can float for more than 3 hours daily . If you have the space and coins, then you can give it a try. Am sure you will wonder why you didn't start all this years.


*coins - money ( )

brother,
welcome to the world of endless hot water supply without tears.
congratulations you finally did it!

Saipro:

.... still bothered about how your supplier unceremoniously stopped stocking them before some of us could partake of the goodness named Zenith batteries.

So, my three and a half year old US batteries sprouted weak and dead cells within a weak of heavy usage with poor insolation. Enter panic mode. I cut down utilization to barest minimum for about a week; when that wasn't cutting it, I began daily equalization cycles after daily absorb termination. A week of daily equalizing seemed aggravate the situation with the weak cells seemingly dying too. I had begun doing the rounds of local lithium merchants when lady luck smiled upon with good fortune.

A routine check of a car in the yard before a trip revealed an item previously forgotten - an Infinitum desulphator! Every vehicle in the family has one installed and average battery lifespan has since been 3 - 4 years (even with abuse). I was bound to have a few in the store so I ransacked the darker corners and found one each of the 24V and 12V types. Immediately rearranged the batteries that night such that the sole battery without issues would be the one excluded from the desulphators (I run a primary bank of 48V nominal)

48 hours later and the weak cells began showing signs of life. Enter the dragon. Daily equalizations with end-of-week dilution of the weak and dead cells. After a week, the weak cells had sprung to life while one of the dead cells showed the barest signs of life. The other dead cells wouldn't even bubble nor change colour (healthy cells had electrolyte turned brown from vigorous boiling).

End of second week and all cells showed signs of life, however little. Middle of third week and all had resumed regular vicious boiling with equalization. Alternate day/once in three days equalization halted.

We are now entering the fourth week of desulphator use (remember I ran two weeks of conditioning without them and the cells went almost beyond salvage). From registering 47V within an hour of sundown and either dying before dawn or waking to 39V, I now have at worst 49V at bedtime (82 - 88%) and 48V at daybreak (73 - 82%). Batteries have inevitably lost some capacity over the years. My nighttime/overnight load is still 200W or less (typically about 150W nighttime, 100W overnight - inverter consumption added).

I should mention the bank had HA02 balancers installed from inception. I said it a few years ago and would like to reiterate now : snake oil or not, reliable desulphators work!

bro,
i think the zeniths were available in the market for a while before they eventually disappeared.
at that time, it was common sight to see solar installers marketing them although as you can imagine,
they were not without their usual fakes and look alikes. i was only fortunate to have gotten the originals
because i sourced it directly from the supplier in lagos.

as for battery desulphators, i still wonder why they seem to have such a bad rap with guys here.
when i hear statements like "snake oil" being used to describe them i just shake my head in disbelief.
my zeniths were on desulphators (battery life saver) from day one of installation and even when i had
issues with thunder strike which affected the bls, you can't imagine the speed with which i used to
order a replacement.

i see a hype of battery balancers in place of desulpators and i'm like, what is going on?
for the almost 8yrs i used my zeniths, i never bought or used a single balancer but my batteries were
always in top shape, so much so that my friend who bought off the zeniths from me when he learnt
they were available promptly installed them and has been using them now for over 3 months without
complaints. i'm sure if i had sold off the zeniths to him as dead batteries or scrap, claiming they were
good, my phone would have been ringing off the hook by now.

danowena:


Wow, thanks for the elaborate response.

1. My inverter is Sukam. I doubt it supports parallel output. Not sure though but we are separating loads.
2. The Victron 250/100 is almost 450k . Can the hybrid do same job? I understand the Victron can help you monitor your loads and even switch some off.
3. I will have to change the wires. What a waste. I will go for the 16mm so I can harness as much as possible.
4. Is understood.
5. Is understood.
Thank you so much.

Since you already have an inverter then the hybrid won't be applicable as that is an inverter+cc. If victron is beyond reach, you may consider getting flexmax 80, @JUO advertised some of them, just check previous pages. If you are going for that, be sure to use at least 16mm wires

NairaBaba:
Setup with Siemens LOGO 8

The PLC takes analog inputs; Panel voltage,controllers
Current and battery voltage as 0-10v .

Panel voltage,controllers Current and battery voltage are converted to 0-10v by voltage and current transmitters, which can be read by PLC.


The Programmable logic controller gives you endless
Process variables ( Solar panel voltage and current, battery voltage, solar panel power production) control while minimising hardwares such as relays, contactors, switches etc. PLC makes changes to Solar set-up easy and flexible as changes are made in the PLC software . PlC are primarily for industrial control but there are relatively cheap PlCs in the market for home automation.

this na substation or house?

NairaBaba:


PLC , programmable logic controllers, are not "analogue method" as you stated. PLCs generally handle analog( discrete) such your solar panel voltage and current, battery voltages and digital values such freezer/pump on, 0ff.

For anyone with basic programming skill, a glance into the ladder logic I uploaded will give the ideal of the almost endless configuration/ control that you achieve with PLC.

In the ladder logic I uploaded, I preferentially start and stop the freezers and pump based on solar power being produced. Battery voltage also can start and stop the loads, freezers and pump, . Built into the ladder logic I uploaded are number of timers; on-delay, off-delays, weekly and yearly timers, astronomical clocks, counter , resets, trip signals etc to ensure Safe and optimal performance.

I opted for PLC because I want to run my loads, start and stop freezers/pump, based on the available solar power production optimally without deeping into the battery.

With PLC , remote monitoring and datalogging can easily be achieved.

Properly programmed, a sonoff basic with node red will do all this and much more and it is infinitely extensible. The Siemens Logic is good but is limited in so many ways compared to a properly programmed raspberry pi running the appropriate packages, it is more expensive and it doesn't have so much redundancy built into it.

danowena:


This is very good for someone that is off grid. Is this PLC different from the solar charge controller or does it also do the work of the solar charge controller. If not, how does it come-in in the wiring?is before the cc or after the cc or after the inverter?

PLC, programmable logic controllers, are different from charge controllers. PLCs are used for (industrial ) automation. In this case we are looking at, PLC is used to switch on and off some loads, freezers and pump, connected to the the inverter outlet.

The signals ( inputs) to PLC come from solar panel, Charge controller and battery voltage. The PLC output commands to the freezers and water pump based on conditions of your program ( logic) been fulfilled. In my own program ( written in ladder logic) , I used math function in the program to calculate solar power production and output commands ( on and off) to freezers and pump based on available solar power being generated by the solar panels which is determined by the weather conditions ( irradiance).

Trippledots:


You get a wattmetre designed for your need at arena oshodi....displays all you stated and more. Shouldn't be more than 5k (see attached of what I mean)

Just left Arena market now. Located one Ik at C3-12 and this is exactly the one he has and he sells it for exactly 5k.

futurenix:
Price is 300k only for the 5.5KW
Yes it can work with Lithium battery ,has battery equalization, batteryless function and can charge from both solar and utility same time or prioritize one as you want.

Modified:
3.2KW ,24V with 4000W max PV array
3.5KW ,24V with 5000W max PV array
5KW, 48V with 5000W max PV array and
5.5KW, 48V with 6000W max PV array
all available @ discounted prices.

Pay on delivery if upto 3 orders are from same State.

Not8one8one6seven1nine7nine

3.2KW ,24V with 4000W max PV array

How much for this

mctfopt:


This is the device that I use which may serve your purpose.

Just left Arena market now. The one i saw for this kind does not have the battery bar. As soon as i showed this your pic to the guy, he said it is DC and that the one he has is AC (doesnt have battery). He then directed me to one Ik at C3-12, but the type the guy has is the type Trippledots posted earlier.

I may have to order for it from Jumia. I just hope they wont send me the one without battery (AC).

danowena:


Wow, thanks for the elaborate response.

1. My inverter is Sukam. I doubt it supports parallel output. Not sure though but we are separating loads.
2. The Victron 250/100 is almost 450k . Can the hybrid do same job? I understand the Victron can help you monitor your loads and even switch some off.
3. I will have to change the wires. What a waste. I will go for the 16mm so I can harness as much as possible.
4. Is understood.
5. Is understood.
Thank you so much.

Your setup is large for you to play it by the ear, i would recommend you get an inhouse installer to work with you.

This issue of load being large, hence the need for 2 inverters, is usually applied wrongly by inexperienced installers/home owners.
I recall an aquantaince who claimed to be an engr, got a 6.5kva 48v inverter, and 4 batteries, that his load is large, ac and pumping machine, which he insisted didnt run simultaneously.
I flatly told him that he would be needing new batteries within 6months, and instead of calming down to listen, he was quoting 1 useless thing or the other, how his 3kva gen cudnt carry the sumo, only his 8kva gen, hence why he opted for 7.5kva gen, but had to settle for 6.5kva cos of cost blah blah blah.

He was however truthful enough to confess that the system isnt performing as b4, that the installer had come to change 2 batts last month...etc

List your max simultaneous running load, so we can be sure you need 2 inveeters
For big loads, you are better off having 1 big battery bank!

You can connect 2 cc to the same bank. 2 units 80amp cc shud work fine

JUO:
this na substation or house?

Good day all.
Please anyone here selling 12v4.5ah lead acid ba3.My rechargeable fan's ba3 need replacement after serving me for 2 solid years.Thanks

170K only. 1 unit to go (Silver + black colour)

spartacus11:


3.2KW ,24V with 4000W max PV array

How much for this

danowena:




Thanks a lot.
The Batteries are 12 V 200ah to be connected in series to make the 48 V (4 batteries in series). Yes, I need the 2 inverters because of the load as I initially planned using 10kva 180 volt inverter which I was strongly advised not to use.
So, that said, it means I will use two 48v CC of say 100A?
Another question that comes to kind now is how to get power to the two CC. Should I give them different panels? I plan to buy about 32panels, should I wire it in such a way that 16 panels are charging one whilst another 16 is charging another? Or is there a device that can split the charging into the CC or is it by simply connecting power from the wire that comes from the panel and splitting it into the two CCs? I am a novice so don’t mind my rudimentary questions.
Because we needed to cast compound, we made provision for the DC wire that will come from the roof. We used two 4mm wire for a height of about 12 metres. Is the 4mm sufficient to carry the current from 32 panels of 320 watts?
Your responses will be highly appreciated.

Kindly use a 2v cell to achieve this (600~1000ah). Stay away from 12v batteries. They are not designed for this kind of heavy use.

Futurenix, I sent a mail to you, kindly respond. Am interested in the 3.2kva inverter. Thanks

futurenix:
170K only. 1 unit to go (Silver + black colour)

danowena:




Thanks a lot.
The Batteries are 12 V 200ah to be connected in series to make the 48 V (4 batteries in series). Yes, I need the 2 inverters because of the load as I initially planned using 10kva 180 volt inverter which I was strongly advised not to use.
So, that said, it means I will use two 48v CC of say 100A?
Another question that comes to kind now is how to get power to the two CC. Should I give them different panels? I plan to buy about 32panels, should I wire it in such a way that 16 panels are charging one whilst another 16 is charging another? Or is there a device that can split the charging into the CC or is it by simply connecting power from the wire that comes from the panel and splitting it into the two CCs? I am a novice so don’t mind my rudimentary questions.
Because we needed to cast compound, we made provision for the DC wire that will come from the roof. We used two 4mm wire for a height of about 12 metres. Is the 4mm sufficient to carry the current from 32 panels of 320 watts?
Your responses will be highly appreciated.

Go for 80A CC good one since u have 2 inverter make ur connection in two 1to one CC

https://konga.com/product/suoer-2000w-inverter-dc-12v-to-ac-230v-solar-power-inverter-3197766

Please is this inverter worth it. Can I use my standing fan on this inverter?

Thanks

mukhcech:
https://konga.com/product/suoer-2000w-inverter-dc-12v-to-ac-230v-solar-power-inverter-3197766

Please is this inverter worth it. Can I use my standing fan on this inverter?

Thanks

this is a modified sine wave.. if your standing fan is not the rechargeable/dc type, dont use it on this inverter otherwise the fan coil will burn out in few months time.

Valto:
this is a modified sine wave.. if your standing fan is not the rechargeable/dc type, dont use it on this inverter otherwise the fan coil will burn out in few months time.

Thank you Oga mi. It is the rechargeable type with two batteries.

For Lithium users, if you are using chargery bms, BMS8T, or BMS16T or BMS24T, take a look at this https://github.com/eumobong/chargery


It's reads the data and publishes to MQTT topics.
Posting to emoncms node 40 to be added in version 2 on 27th Sept.

Advantage: Free. No need for victron's battery monitor.