Hello guys, pls I need urgent help. My Honda accord 2007 in line 4 cylinder (Honda discussion continues 5 speed manual transmission) idles at 1500rpm on neutral will driving & is taking much fuel. I went for a scan and it read P1157 (H02s (A/F sensor) S1 AFS line high voltage. I have changed the front oxygen sensor and it won't stop acting up. Could anyone suggest the possible problem or recommend a trust electrician. I hv tried Apo but can't find any reasonable elect there. Pls help a bro

my brother do u need someone who is educated or a person who has the knowledge.

I need someone with knowledge

Lorechino:
my brother do u need someone who is educated or a person who has the knowledge.

Are you looking for me?

Take advantage of this offer https://www.nairaland.com/3811331/dealership-level-diagnostics-honda-1996/1#67120722

Try Automedics. They are expensive but they know their job. Those at Apo will milk you dry without any result.

franklin93:
Hello guys, pls I need urgent help. My Honda accord 2007 in line 4 cylinder (Honda discussion continues 5 speed manual transmission) idles at 1500rpm on neutral will driving & is taking much fuel. I went for a scan and it read P1157 (H02s (A/F sensor) S1 AFS line high voltage. I have changed the front oxygen sensor and it won't stop acting up. Could anyone suggest the possible problem or recommend a trust electrician. I hv tried Apo but can't find any reasonable elect there. Pls help a bro

A/F sensor measures the air to fuel ratio used by the engine. When it goes bad, the computer no longer uses the best possible values to calculate fuel to air ratio but default values which are rather generous, hence the poor fuel consumption.

The possible issues are:

The connector is bad.

There is an open in the sensor wiring.

The sensor itself has failed.

Did you replace with a new one? Did you replace with tokunbo? Did you replace with an exact fit? Same part number?
OEM Part Number: 36531-RAA-A02 / 36531 RAA A02 / 36531RAAA02

If the job was properly done, the code would not come back.

The DTC is designed to come back within one trip once the enabling criteria is seen by the monitors run by the ECU. https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54620232 (what is a trip) and https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54619228 (what is a monitor)

If the sensor is new and an exact fit, then the problem is going to lie with the connector or the wiring to/from the sensor.

I really appreciate your reply

AutoElectNG:



A/F sensor measures the air to fuel ratio used by the engine. When it goes bad, the computer no longer uses the best possible values to calculate fuel to air ratio but default values which are rather generous, hence the poor fuel consumption.

The possible issues are:

The connector is bad.

There is an open in the sensor wiring.

The sensor itself has failed.

Did you replace with a new one? Did you replace with tokunbo? Did you replace with an exact fit? Same part number?
OEM Part Number: 36531-RAA-A02 / 36531 RAA A02 / 36531RAAA02

If the job was properly done, the code would not come back.

The DTC is designed to come back within one trip once the enabling criteria is seen by the monitors run by the ECU. https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54620232 (what is a trip) and https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54619228 (what is a monitor)

If the sensor is new and an exact fit, then the problem is going to lie with the connector or the wiring to/from the sensor.

franklin93:
I really appreciate your reply

Your welcome.

I love your support. Very detailed. Thanks for suggestion. If it's possible I will like to have your contact. Thanks.

franklin93:
I really appreciate your reply

.

Double Post

franklin93:
I love your support. Very detailed. Thanks for suggestion. If it's possible I will like to have your contact. Thanks.

Update?

Good day bro, I have tested the 02 sensor to know the heater voltage and it showed me 0.9 more so I tested the connector and it displayed 12v, one of the wire showed 1.2v and the other 2.2v while one of them showed 0 (nothing) . I equally tested the fuse no. 4, 23 and 19 and all had current in them. Am confused.

AutoElectNG:


Update?

franklin93:
Good day bro, I have tested the 02 sensor to know the heater voltage and it showed me 0.9 more so I tested the connector and it displayed 12v, one of the wire showed 1.2v and the other 2.2v while one of them showed 0 (nothing) . I equally tested the fuse no. 4, 23 and 19 and all had current in them. Am confused.

I am confused too... How do I help you from afar? What is your background? How good are you with electricals/electronics? How adept are you at using a multimeter? Can you tell me step by step how you measured everything? What was the black probe connected to and the red probe connected to for each of the values displayed above? As well as when you tested the 3 listed fuses.

Maybe from the information supplied I will know whether to tell you what to do or request for a chance to do it for you!

Thanks for your reply. In testing the 02 sensor connector, bank 1 sensor 1 I connected the black wire of the multimeter to the negative terminal of my battery while the car was in ignition with the dashboard lights on. I then connected the red wire to each of the pins on the connector. I set the multimeter to voltage sector (200v). The connector pin is 4 in number and one of them displayed 12v, the other showed 0, the third one showed 1. 2v while the forth pins showed 2.2v. For the 02 sensor itself, I switched to ohms reading on the multimeter and selected 200ohms, I then connected the black and red wire of the multimeter to the two black wires which is suppose to be the heater wires and it read 0.9 for the fuses, I tested fuse number 19, 23 and number 4. No 19 was under the hood while 23 and 4 was under the dash. I used a bulb connected to a negative and positive signal wires. I used the hinge on my door as a ground and as I tested the two points on each fuse they all produced currents thereby lighting the bulbs. Pls what's your location? Am in abuja

AutoElectNG:


I am confused too... How do I help you from afar? What is your background? How good are you with electricals/electronics? How adept are you at using a multimeter? Can you tell me step by step how you measured everything? What was the black probe connected to and the red probe connected to for each of the values displayed above? As well as when you tested the 3 listed fuses.

Maybe from the information supplied I will know whether to tell you what to do or request for a chance to do it for you!

Kingreign

Where is that?

elshanAutos:
Kingreign

franklin93:
Thanks for your reply. In testing the 02 sensor connector, bank 1 sensor 1 I connected the black wire of the multimeter to the negative terminal of my battery while the car was in ignition with the dashboard lights on. I then connected the red wire to each of the pins on the connector. I set the multimeter to voltage sector (200v). The connector pin is 4 in number and one of them displayed 12v, the other showed 0, the third one showed 1. 2v while the forth pins showed 2.2v. For the 02 sensor itself, I switched to ohms reading on the multimeter and selected 200ohms, I then connected the black and red wire of the multimeter to the two black wires which is suppose to be the heater wires and it read 0.9 for the fuses, I tested fuse number 19, 23 and number 4. No 19 was under the hood while 23 and 4 was under the dash. I used a bulb connected to a negative and positive signal wires. I used the hinge on my door as a ground and as I tested the two points on each fuse they all produced currents thereby lighting the bulbs. Pls what's your location? Am in abuja

On another job now.

Will work on it later.

Ok I will be expecting ur reply

AutoElectNG:


On another job now.

Will work on it later.

We can check it for you.

I have been there before

cardoctor:
We can check it for you.

Key on Engine Off? When conducting voltage drop tests?

Battery disconnected when conducting resistance tests?

franklin93:
I need someone with knowledge

Why did you say you need someone with knowledge?

I have actually given you the solution to your problem in my earlier detailed post which you acknowledged.


Something the shops without names and those with names did not do for you.

But if you want me to do it for you, then it will attract $$$.

That way I can recover from you some of the dollars I spent to be trained.

But I can guarantee you it will be fixed right once and for all.


Without sounding immodest, that I perfectly understand your problem and its solution is not in doubt.

If my prognosis was inaccurate eagle eyed elders would have shown me a yellow or red card.

AutoElectNG:


Why did you say you need someone with knowledge?

I have actually given you the solution to your problem in my earlier detailed post which you acknowledged.


Something the shops without names and those with names did not do for you.

But if you want me to do it for you, then it will attract $$$.

That way I can recover from you some of the dollars I spent to be trained.

But I can guarantee you it will be fixed right once and for all.

Contact me on WhatsApp //234//706//349//3400 and we can schedule an appointment

Without sounding immodest, that I perfectly understand your problem and its solution is not in doubt.

If my prognosis was inaccurate eagle eyed elders would have shown me a yellow or red card.

Very modest mode of bragging.
I love this.

franklin93:
Where is that?

Where kwa?
Not a place. A person

The key wasn't disconnected, it was on ignition power moreso, the battery wasn't disconnected.

AutoElectNG:
Key on Engine Off? When conducting voltage drop tests?

Battery disconnected when conducting resistance tests?

So we met.

Technical challenges prevented access to factory data.

Access subsequently established after hours.

Diagnosis and hopefully fix to be executed tomorrow.

Will report to the house.

OP is free to make his on report as well.

Given the background he laid above.

aninweze:


Very modest mode of bragging.
I love this.

I try very much to apply this passage from scripture in my dealings with others: "Do nothing out of contentiousness or out of egotism, but with humility consider others superior to you." Philippians 2:3

I appreciate the compliment.

Solution to this problem is replace the air fuel ratio sensor with an exact fit.

Client yet to purchase same by himself and inform me or provide funds for its purchase.

---------------------
MODIFIED BELOW
--------------------

Client prefers to procure parts himself which is no problem except that, see below:

Everyone wants a good deal. No one wants to pay more than they should. We certainly get that, after all we are consumers too. But let's put things in proper perspective.

First, there are indeed sources where you can buy parts at discount prices, and for those doing their own work, that may be an okay option. HOWEVER, as a professional automotive service and repair business, that option is not right for us. Why? For starters, our customers tend to demand (and rightfully so) that we provide a warranty - labor AND parts. Therefore, it's important that we buy parts of high quality from a vendor we can trust.

Second, it's important to buy parts from a vendor with whom we have a relationship, that shares our values with respect to quality and customer satisfaction, and will promptly provide us with replacements parts, without jumping through hoops, should the need arise.
Does this mean sometimes paying a little more? Yes, but we believe that in terms of the OVERALL VALUE it is well worth
it.

Fortunately most of our customers understand and appreciate this.

--------------
ADDENDUM
-------------

If we install parts purchased by a client, all bets are off, so warranties are cancelled!

This case could not be completed as the client sold off the car.

Here is what we did before it was sold.

We confirmed that the wiring of the AFS Sensor matched the one on the vehicle.

Next we tried to confirm that the wires from the ECU to the AFS matched factory documentation

We discovered a mismatch.

It was agreed that the matter should be handled with the manufacturer and then that the client would return for work to be completed.

Client did not return.

Client sold car off.

This case is thus closed.