Your analogy does not exactly cohere with the case in question here. All that happened was your fuel filler lid was not properly mounted. (And this is a common enough scenario). If it had been defective and you had found a way round it you could well beat your chest for beating VW to their tricks! The pedal assembly had become defective and an improvisation was made. If this was to serve beyond a temporary expedient, then as the term goes on this board, it’s Kazeemization. The ideal is to replace the assembly and return the mechanism to factory specs (hm…that phrase sounds recently familiar).
"Not properly mounted " as against "off" would have been a more specific warning. It's a case of lying on the bed with one foot on the wall and an alarm goes off to say "Costee is missing" Or not closing your car door properly and an alarm tells you your door is missing"
On a more serious note, I'd have driven the car to VW garage to have it checked and the technician would have simply done what I did or asked me to change it (as most kazeems would do).Either way , it'd have been a waste of time and money ... But hey, I understood the principles and fixed the "problem" myself
On a more serious note, I'd have driven the car to VW garage to have it checked and the technician would have simply done what I did or asked me to change it (as most kazeems would do).Either way , it'd have been a waste of time and money ... But hey, I understood the principles and fixed the "problem" myself
My dear Emir, the scenario you created is, as I already said, well enough known. Now you know too. Since the lid is not an electronic gizmo, the Kazeem would on the contrary not have suggested replacement but improvisation. That's why he's a Kazeem. VW is my second hobby, I suggest you get an original Ross-Tech VCDS. You'll be pleasantly surprised on what needs to be known and how easily you can tame your car.
My dear Emir, the scenario you created is, as I already said, well enough known. Now you know too. Since the lid is not an electronic gizmo, the Kazeem would on the contrary not have suggested replacement but improvisation. That's why he's a Kazeem. VW is my second hobby, I suggest you get an original Ross-Tech VCDS. You'll be pleasantly surprised on what needs to be known and how easily you can tame your car.
The "commonness" of the problem is subjective considering that most warning symbols are not self-explanatory(as I had to Google it) and are not really common (in my case , first time since my 10 years driving experience) and I'm sure most ladies will need some hands if they were in my shoes.
Note, a typical kazeem will charge you for replacement but improvise .And whether he replaces or improvises , my understanding of the principle averted that.
The "commonness" of the problem is subjective considering that most warning symbols are not self-explanatory(as I had to Google it) and are not really common (in my case , first time since my 10 years driving experience) and I'm sure most ladies will need some hands if they were in my shoes.
Note, a typical kazeem will charge you for replacement but improvise .
As long as you don't go above the 2003 model, you'll be ok. The Xterra is a work horse. I used mine for 4 years and I only carried out the routine service required. The parts are fairly cheap to get. I'll also recommend getting the ones with 'auxilliary' gear.
Ok bro,thanks. What of the Pathy, what year is ok?
My dear Emir, the scenario you created is, as I already said, well enough known. Now you know too. Since the lid is not an electronic gizmo, the Kazeem would on the contrary not have suggested replacement but improvisation. That's why he's a Kazeem. VW is my second hobby, I suggest you get an original Ross-Tech VCDS. You'll be pleasantly surprised on what needs to be known and how easily you can tame your car.
Pls bro. How much does it cost to get an original ROSSTECH VCDS?
. [/color][/quote]Gurus in the house, pls my Toyota Sienna, 2004 model is making a sound "kor" when its changing gear. A gear box mechanic was recommended. The mechanic drive tested the vehicle and said the lubricant in the auxiliary has tried and needed to lubricate it to know if the auxiliary is still okay. He bought oil and mixed it with grease and lubricated it, yet the noise has persisted. Meanwhile, the gear shifts perfectly, but only the noise that it makes.
Now, the gear mechanic says the auxiliary is bad and requires to be changed. According to him, the cost is 100,000 naira for a new auxiliary.
What do I really do? Advice me professionally, pls.
pls my Toyota Sienna, 2004 model is making a sound "kor" when its changing gear. A gear box mechanic was recommended. The mechanic drive tested the vehicle and said the lubricant in the auxiliary has tried and needed to lubricate it to know if the auxiliary is still okay. He bought oil and mixed it with grease and lubricated it, yet the noise has persisted. Meanwhile, the gear shifts perfectly, but only the noise that it makes.
Now, the gear mechanic says the auxiliary is bad and requires to be changed. According to him, the cost is 100,000 naira for a new auxiliary.
What do I really do? Advice me professionally, pls
nickxtra: pls my Toyota Sienna, 2004 model is making a sound "kor" when its changing gear. A gear box mechanic was recommended. The mechanic drive tested the vehicle and said the lubricant in the auxiliary has tried and needed to lubricate it to know if the auxiliary is still okay. He bought oil and mixed it with grease and lubricated it, yet the noise has persisted. Meanwhile, the gear shifts perfectly, but only the noise that it makes.
Now, the gear mechanic says the auxiliary is bad and requires to be changed. According to him, the cost is 100,000 naira for a new auxiliary.
What do I really do? Advice me professionally, pls
GAZZUZZ: Driver calls in, states vehicle RPM is @ 1.7rpm steady and he's unable to drive the car. I tell him to take out the battery and leave it for a few minutes and try again.
trys it again same thing.
Driver scans vehicle, scan reveals P2122 and P2127 the codes are permanent codes.
it's a weekend and I am very busy so I ask him to find a way to move car down to the workshop from ajah (law sch).
he finds a way (Don't know how he did it) and sat morning car is in front of workshop.
I decide to do a quick 15min assessment of the associated symptoms
Clear codes, but re-scan and same codes pop up again. Meaning code is permanent.
So I take out the Throttle pedal and Inspect the potentiometer, I was hoping to find fluids or corrosion or a damaged contact inside. (Sorry no pics for that), found nothing.
put it back together, adjusted the contacts a hoped it would start working again (fluke things ) same thing, no response from accelerator pedal with engine running.
My 15mins was up, I had a wedding to attend, so I abandoned it and headed home.
Church wedding over, sitting in reception, but my mind is still on the nissan. I receive a call about a client who wants to pick up his vehicle, but they can't find the keys, I tap my pocket and the keys are with me. leaving Mrs Gazzuzz in reception I head back to workshop (5mins drive) drop off key, and did another 15min check on nissan again. This time live scan, checked input voltage when pedal depressed, readings varied according to pedal positions (meaning pedal was fine)
But output readings on throttle body when pedal depressed were static. So I just assumed a faulty Engine ecu
Next plan was to find someone who had conquered this error and find out how it was conquered.
Placed an Sms to my Oga patapata of Nissan, I was very vague in my explanation but His response was "you might have to change the unit"
next I called my Oga in Nnewi he said same thing, that he just solved one same way.
I was having hope small small... next thing phone rings..... Its the Mrs.
I abandoned ship again. Went back to reception and my people were ready to go. On my way home, I called another Oga in PH, he said it's a wiring problem check harness, said he had seen similar issue and it was a wiring problem.
my head is now full.
5:46pm I message Uncle Autoelectng gave him a brief description of the problem, and asked if he had experienced same type of issue he said yes, but it was a transmission related fault. He promised to get back to me. ill tell you one thing about Uncle, he likes all the info. Model year, engine type, production year, transmission type, etc, last last I sent him the vin and messages were quiet for a while.
In the morning 5am I opened my messages and saw a video link Autoelectng sent, it was not in English, but I understood "mechanic" (it's a universal language)
when this happens, the app sensor on the pedal gives off a higher than usual resistance @ idle. The engine ecu has set parameters for the operation of the throttle pedal sensor, and any slight deviation from parameters throws a circuit code and disables the function of the pedal (That's why we love toyota ).
Looking closely at the pic above you will notice a large hole with no rubber stud top left and pedal resting on base (you need to understand "mechanic"
First plan was to test an see if this would work.
Got a good old used slippers (saving technicians since 1801)
Started car and pedal worked perfectly, idle back to normal.
So I say to my self, how will I ensure this 1801 saver remains in place without falling? Or should I just re-design the pedal?
I vex and brought out my welding machine and a 10mm nut, welded it to the base of the pedal and installed a screwed a 10mm bolt in place to allow pedal rest on bolt this was more like killing an Ant with a sledge hammer.
Looked good and firm, tested it and it worked, but long term, metal to metal contact without any lubrication will cause a small dent that will grow, it might take several years, but it would happen.
So I decided to use the rubber stud, and place it inside the 10mm bolt, it was a very firm fit, I had to pull really hard and finally it sat perfect, not requiring glue to hold it in place (but I sha put o!)
Gazzuzz, you could have said it was a blown head gasket and open the engine up by morning, that is how you can make good morning from the owner's impatience
sultaan: Gazzuzz, you could have said it was a blown head gasket and open the engine up by morning, that is how you can make good morning from the owner's impatience
leaving Mrs Gazzuzz in reception I head back to workshop (5mins drive) drop off key, and did another 15min check on nissan again. This time live scan, checked input voltage when pedal depressed, readings varied according to pedal positions (meaning pedal was fine)
Or should I just re-design the pedal?
have to run home 