I complained of water from my 2009 Toyota Corolla radiator entering my gearbox. I have been able to fixed that, thanks for the heads-up @ id4sho.

You know even before we discharged the water, on my way to mechanic, the gear would neutralise/free itself and picked again.

I complained that to my mechanic, he removed the gear brain box and wash it with petrol and dry it. Put it back and the movement is smooth now.

The only challenge now is experiencing difficulty if I want to reverse or finding it hard to reverse untill I press or fire harder before it picked.

My mechanic said I should exercise patient let the oil circulate.

I don't know how true or reliable that could be

Spray:
I complained of water from my 2009 Toyota Corolla radiator entering my gearbox. I have been able to fixed that, thanks for the heads-up @ id4sho.

You know even before we discharged the water, on my way to mechanic, the gear would neutralise/free itself and picked again.

I complained that to my mechanic, he removed the gear brain box and wash it with petrol and dry it. Put it back and the movement is smooth now.

The only challenge now is experiencing difficulty if I want to reverse or finding it hard to reverse untill I press or fire harder before it picked.

My mechanic said I should exercise patient let the oil circulate.

I don't know how true or reliable that could be

Is there a check engine light? I believe one of the solenoids in the gear box is malfunctioning. It should be a piece of cake for a good gear box tech

Take your vehicle to a gear specialist let them drop and drain the gear oil as water has mixed with it, I hope the damage isn't worse yet.

Spray:
I complained of water from my 2009 Toyota Corolla radiator entering my gearbox. I have been able to fixed that, thanks for the heads-up @ id4sho.

You know even before we discharged the water, on my way to mechanic, the gear would neutralise/free itself and picked again.

I complained that to my mechanic, he removed the gear brain box and wash it with petrol and dry it. Put it back and the movement is smooth now.

The only challenge now is experiencing difficulty if I want to reverse or finding it hard to reverse untill I press or fire harder before it picked.

My mechanic said I should exercise patient let the oil circulate.

I don't know how true or reliable that could be

When foreign object contaminates the transmission system (water, wrong fluid, metal shavings) you are suppose to do a drain and refill twice or thrice if you can afford it) first drain, drive like 50 to 100km then drain and refill again to allow complete removal of contamination including those hiding in the clutch converter.

If after that their is still slip or refusal to enter gear, scan that will enable you plan for next step.

The issue with transmission is once technician loosen it, they wont be able to bolt is back to the required torque, also wrong position of valve body components which leads to failure eventually

nurey:


When foreign object contaminates the transmission system (water, wrong fluid, metal shavings) you are suppose to do a drain and refill twice or thrice if you can afford it) first drain, drive like 50 to 100km then drain and refill again to allow complete removal of contamination including those hiding in the clutch converter.

If after that their is still slip or refusal to enter gear, scan that will enable you plan for next step.

The issue with transmission is once technician loosen it, they wont be able to bolt is back to the required torque, also wrong position of valve body components which leads to failure eventually

Is it that they don't consult the torque spec when putting it back together?

michaelwilli:


Is it that they don't consult the torque spec when putting it back together?

Bros you funny mechanic go loosen 10 bolt, tie back and still have extra 4 wey he no know where he remove am.

Transmission technicians are very rare in Nigeria also replacement quality parts are expensive and scarce in our parts market.

nurey:


Bros you funny mechanic go loosen 10 bolt, tie back and still have extra 4 wey he no know where he remove am.

Transmission technicians are very rare in Nigeria also replacement quality parts are expensive and scarce in our parts market.

Nawa o. There's problem.

Raysleek:

Is there a check engine light? I believe one of the solenoids in the gear box is malfunctioning. It should be a piece of cake for a good gear box tech

How do one get to know which of them it is?

Do we have diagnostic machines that can pin point the faulty solenoid.

Also Abeg, the man made mention of a “””GEAR BRAIN BOX””” this is quite the first time I’m hearing such.

nurey:


Bros you funny mechanic go loosen 10 bolt, tie back and still have extra 4 wey he no know where he remove am.

Transmission technicians are very rare in Nigeria also replacement quality parts are expensive and scarce in our parts market.

On must occasions if I’m working on a car, I make videos and take photos of every step and components I come across.

Then when loosening bolts and nuts I get plastic containers e.g bottle water plastics cut in half and place the bolts and nuts of each and every component I loosen inside the plastic. This helps me when putting them back together.

As per the required torque, most times I note of the force required to loosen then and when putting them back on I fasten them and apply moderate pressure as per almost the pressure required to loosen them.

Cos I feel it’s best to not over tighten them so as not to strip the threads.

nurey:


When foreign object contaminates the transmission system (water, wrong fluid, metal shavings) you are suppose to do a drain and refill twice or thrice if you can afford it) first drain, drive like 50 to 100km then drain and refill again to allow complete removal of contamination including those hiding in the clutch converter.

If after that their is still slip or refusal to enter gear, scan that will enable you plan for next step.

The issue with transmission is once technician loosen it, they wont be able to bolt is back to the required torque, also wrong position of valve body components which leads to failure eventually

Please I have a vehicle with an issue.

1st the idle can be rough when it’s hot.

2nd the transmission is smooth but when it is about to go into GEAR 3 (when you’re driving slow or below 20-30KMph) it will pause for like 2 seconds then engage, but if you’re going fast or taking off and acceleration climbs highs (even when you’re coming from being stationary 0KM upwards and your making fast) it won’t pause and it will shift smooth.

Please what can be the cause.

nurey:


Bros you funny mechanic go loosen 10 bolt, tie back and still have extra 4 wey he no know where he remove am.

Transmission technicians are very rare in Nigeria also replacement quality parts are expensive and scarce in our parts market.

Also please I’d like to ask what causes an engine to make a cranking or rattling noise when you start it in the morning, it starts fine and you’d hear some noise like (krrrrrrrrr) for about about 1-2 seconds and it disappears.

I’ve seen this in Camry engines and 1AR engines too, seems the noise is coming from the ti wing chain side(not sure) but some said it’s cause like is not circulating fast enough when you start the engine.

modskiller:


Please I have a vehicle with an issue.

1st the idle can be rough when it’s hot.

2nd the transmission is smooth but when it is about to go into GEAR 3 (when you’re driving slow or below 20-30KMph) it will pause for like 2 seconds then engage, but if you’re going fast or taking off and acceleration climbs highs (even when you’re coming from being stationary 0KM upwards and your making fast) it won’t pause and it will shift smooth.

Please what can be the cause.

Nothing is wrong with your transmission

modskiller:


Also please I’d like to ask what causes an engine to make a cranking or rattling noise when you start it in the morning, it starts fine and you’d hear some noise like (krrrrrrrrr) for about about 1-2 seconds and it disappears.

I’ve seen this in Camry engines and 1AR engines too, seems the noise is coming from the ti wing chain side(not sure) but some said it’s cause like is not circulating fast enough when you start the engine.

Sounds cannot be diagnosed online. Also rattling sound at startup points to wrong oil weight used for a long time. Scan the vehicle it will throw a code.

nurey:


Sounds cannot be diagnosed online. Also rattling sound at startup points to wrong oil weight used for a long time. Scan the vehicle it will through a code.

Wow.

Yeah P0016 & P0017 codes that won’t go away for the intake and output actuator valve.

The car had an inscription of 0w30/5W20 but seems the previous owner just kept using the normal 20W50.

We change back to the 0W30 when we noticed the sound.

But it still won’t go away and seems it’s now louder that before.

Hope it won’t spoil the engine and what’s the way out sir.

Thank you 🙏

nurey:


Nothing is wrong with your transmission

Really? Wow?

Cos it pauses for 2 seconds or there about and sometimes jerks into gear 3. But works very fine if you’re taking off and accelerating fast.

Here are the codes I had.

*****None came up for transmission so I thought maybe there are other advanced scanners (just saying)*****

modskiller:
Here are the codes I had.

*****None came up for transmission so I thought maybe there are other advanced scanners (just saying)*****

all those affordable scanners cant get transmission, Airbag, ABS code nah, you need a standard Advanced dealership scanner

modskiller:


Wow.

Yeah P0016 & P0017 codes that won’t go away for the intake and output actuator valve.

The car had an inscription of 0w30/5W20 but seems the previous owner just kept using the normal 20W50.

We change back to the 0W30 when we noticed the sound.

But it still won’t go away and seems it’s now louder that before.

Hope it won’t spoil the engine and what’s the way out sir.

Thank you 🙏

depends on how long the 20w50 oil was used. Those engine parts could already be worn out so switching to recommended oil will only delay the inevitable. What vehicle and year is in question here?

modskiller:


On must occasions if I’m working on a car, I make videos and take photos of every step and components I come across.

Then when loosening bolts and nuts I get plastic containers e.g bottle water plastics cut in half and place the bolts and nuts of each and every component I loosen inside the plastic. This helps me when putting them back together.
As per the required torque, most times I note of the force required to loosen then and when putting them back on I fasten them and apply moderate pressure as per almost the pressure required to loosen them.

Cos I feel it’s best to not over tighten them so as not to strip the threads.

You can't judge the right toque by the same pressure you used in loosening the bolt. A sludged up engine will have a tighter bolt cos of the caked up oil and heat it had gone through (take head bolts for example). Besides old threads have tendency to strip regardless of the amount of toque used (oil pan, valve cover and other related 10mm bolts are notorious for dis).
You'll end up stripping bolts if that's what you use.

modskiller:
Here are the codes I had.

*****None came up for transmission so I thought maybe there are other advanced scanners (just saying)*****

From your scan result, change both cam sprockets and the cold start rattle and timing codes will go.
Resolve the speed sensor codes for the delayed shifting and you should be fine.

nurey:


all those affordable scanners cant get transmission, Airbag, ABS code nah, you need a standard Advanced dealership scanner

True.

jceesquare:

From your scan result, change both cam sprockets and the cold start rattle and timing codes will go.
Resolve the speed sensor codes for the delayed shifting and you should be fine.

Oh wow

Thank you.

jceesquare:

You can't judge the right toque by the same pressure you used in loosening the bolt. A sludged up engine will have a tighter bolt cos of the caked up oil and heat it had gone through (take head bolts for example). Besides old threads have tendency to strip regardless of the amount of toque used (oil pan, valve cover and other related 10mm bolts are notorious for dis).
You'll end up stripping bolts if that's what you use.

You’re right though. An engine with sludge might require more force to loosen and Vice Versa

jceesquare:

From your scan result, change both cam sprockets and the cold start rattle and timing codes will go.
Resolve the speed sensor codes for the delayed shifting and you should be fine.

Where’s your place, workshop I mean?

modskiller:


How do one get to know which of them it is?

Do we have diagnostic machines that can pin point the faulty solenoid.

Also Abeg, the man made mention of a “””GEAR BRAIN BOX””” this is quite the first time I’m hearing such.

A gearbox tech will repair it. They have tools for testing each solenoid and they can service it.

Raysleek:

A gearbox tech will repair it. They have tools for testing each solenoid and they can service it.

Getting one will be the headache

nurey:


depends on how long the 20w50 oil was used. Those engine parts could already be worn out so switching to recommended oil will only delay the inevitable. What vehicle and year is in question here?

It’s a Venza 2011 with a 1AR enging

modskiller:


Where’s your place, workshop I mean?

It's at Abule Egba in Lagos.

I’d like to ask if it’s a good idea to convert a Corolla from manual to automatic transmission

Thanks

jceesquare:

It's at Abule Egba in Lagos.

modskiller:
I’d like to ask if it’s a good idea to convert a Corolla from manual to automatic transmission

Thanks

It's possible with the right tools, parts, and skill. But is it worth it?

Spray:
I complained of water from my 2009 Toyota Corolla radiator entering my gearbox. I have been able to fixed that, thanks for the heads-up @ id4sho.

You know even before we discharged the water, on my way to mechanic, the gear would neutralise/free itself and picked again.

I complained that to my mechanic, he removed the gear brain box and wash it with petrol and dry it. Put it back and the movement is smooth now.

The only challenge now is experiencing difficulty if I want to reverse or finding it hard to reverse untill I press or fire harder before it picked.

My mechanic said I should exercise patient let the oil circulate.

I don't know how true or reliable that could be

Sounds like your gear iis gone

Mr. Gearbox has left the building

modskiller:


Wow.

Yeah P0016 & P0017 codes that won’t go away for the intake and output actuator valve.

The car had an inscription of 0w30/5W20

Are you sure it's 0w30 you saw? 5w20 don't go with 0w30 but 0w20