rainmaker12:


1. Make sure 'a kaseem' has not removed the bulb for your check engine light.
b. If it's intact and no cel light, your fuel pressure is going down due to leak in your full system. That's why you have to turn your key 3 times to build back the pressure before it can start.
There's a return valve in your fuel pump compartment, it can allow fuel escape back to the fuel tank, thereby reducing fuel pressure. Check it.
Check around you fuel rail, and supply hose for slight leaks.
Or better still use a meter and check your fuel pressure, to tell if your pump is ok.

2. That's the reason you are having a bad fuel mileage. If still, no cel.

3. Don't try to use any other atf than honda dw-1, it will give you peace of mind.
b. If no CEL clean the screen filters in
* A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
* shift control solenoid A and B
* lockup control solenoid valve
* second clutch pressure switch
c. I will advice to flush your atf and replace with dw-1

4. You are suppose to get a CEL with all this malfunction, if you are not seeing light on your dash, like I said, make the haven't tampered with your dash bulbs. Iv seen those quacks done it before, so you won't have to be disturbing them about the cause of the light. They feel since the car runs and drive CEL is not needed.

Those are my quoter.

tppzzy01:


Thanks. I ran a diagnostic test on the car and these are the results : P0300, P0420, P0128. Note that I have done meter check on the fuel pump and its okay. Help out anybody

tushbobo:
My ogas... Please my honda eod 2005's V6 engine rattles and drags at lower gears... It also rattles when stationary. At higher gears, the rattling and dragging is still present but reduced. What could be the cause?? If you were standing in front of the car, the noise seems to come from the left of the engine... Thanks in advance.

Umennajiego:
Boss, please I need serious advice I have a 2002 honda accord uk spec, stock engine knocked and I it changed...I was unlucky when I got this 2nd one, it started smoking, and burning oil at disastrous rate, lately I starting hearing rattling sounds at the bottom of this engine when I acceleration aggressively...a mech said it's the metal and yeah it burns the plugs way too early....so back to my question should I rebuild or swap

P.s : it still gives me the best of power against muscle and dem big Hondas ...it's a vtec!

GAZZUZZ:


replace and get a written guarantee.

tushbobo:


Please... still waiting for a response.Thanks.
cc. gazzuzz, luvinhubby et all

yakosteal:
Hi guys. I need car advice. I drive a Honda accord 2000 (baby boy) and I noticed that the when the car has been driven for some time like during travel or I'm stuck in traffic, it won't rev above 3000rpm anymore. and when travelling it cannot go above 120km/h.if I try to accelerate it just jerks and cuts the speed down to below 100km/hr before it picks up again.
I've been to several mechanics with no solution. I've replaced fuel pumps, changed the thing they call sensors like 6 times. I've replaced like 3 "starting sensors (I think that's the crankshaft sensors. not sure) Iand I've changed like 7 "raising " sensor (I don't know the real name for that one). I have had my fuel pump casing washed with thinner and replaced. in fact I have serviced the injector nozzles several times. still nothing.
To top it all, my obd2 connector isn't working. suspect a fuse is blown and I don't trust the car electricians around.
so if anyone has had a similar problem solved I would really appreciate some guidance.

yakosteal:
Hi guys. I need car advice. I drive a Honda accord 2000 (baby boy) and I noticed that the when the car has been driven for some time like during travel or I'm stuck in traffic, it won't rev above 3000rpm anymore. and when travelling it cannot go above 120km/h.if I try to accelerate it just jerks and cuts the speed down to below 100km/hr before it picks up again.
I've been to several mechanics with no solution. I've replaced fuel pumps, changed the thing they call sensors like 6 times. I've replaced like 3 "starting sensors (I think that's the crankshaft sensors. not sure) Iand I've changed like 7 "raising " sensor (I don't know the real name for that one). I have had my fuel pump casing washed with thinner and replaced. in fact I have serviced the injector nozzles several times. still nothing.
To top it all, my obd2 connector isn't working. suspect a fuse is blown and I don't trust the car electricians around.
so if anyone has had a similar problem solved I would really appreciate some guidance.

GAZZUZZ:




P300 multiple cylinder misfire. (check spark plugs, coils, injectors, fuel pump.)

P0420 catalytic converter below threshold bank 1. Replace catalyst on bank 1.

P0128 your fans are connected directly and your thermostat removed.

dillinger:
Hi Gazzuz, my car goes into limp mode when trying to gain speed especially when accelerating. It's kinda sluggish now and after scanning I got cylinder 1 misfire.

Earlier before when I got the limp mode, the culprit was the VANOS solenoid which I replaced and solved the issue. Now the error I got before replacing the solenoid has returned. Error is camshaft sensor mechanical and camshaft sensor stiff.

Fuel pump was replaced last month and it really ade the car so snappy and fast but it's now sluggish. What could be cause of the misfire. I was told to fill my fuel tank and buy Mobil fuel treatment first if that would solve it.

Awaiting your response, thanks

GAZZUZZ:


seems like a hybrid kekenapep

dillinger:
Hi Gazzuz, my car goes into limp mode when trying to gain speed especially when accelerating. It's kinda sluggish now and after scanning I got cylinder 1 misfire.

Earlier before when I got the limp mode, the culprit was the VANOS solenoid which I replaced and solved the issue. Now the error I got before replacing the solenoid has returned. Error is camshaft sensor mechanical and camshaft sensor stiff.

Fuel pump was replaced last month and it really ade the car so snappy and fast but it's now sluggish. What could be cause of the misfire. I was told to fill my fuel tank and buy Mobil fuel treatment first if that would solve it.

Awaiting your response, thanks

kingreign:


Na BMW, Na them dey call Variable valve timing system VANOS.

GAZZUZZ:


My confusion is this is a honda thread

GAZZUZZ:


seems like a hybrid kekenapep

dillinger:


Na BMW 5 series E60 o

didymario7:
Hello guys, mine is a Honda city 2009.

Drove the Car from Apapa and on getting to ikeja, the oil indicator light appeared on the dashboard. When I got home I checked the oil level and it was good.

This morning I turned on the ignition n started the car and after 5mins the oil indicator light appeared again.

What could be the problem?

Thanks in advance.

CC
Luvinhubby
GAZZUZZ

GAZZUZZ:


The oil pressure warning lamp indicates low oil pressure. The oil pressure switch could be bad, the oil filter might be clogged, the wiring to the pressure switch could be compromised......

didymario7:


Thanks for the prompt response.

What's the cost implication in each of the scenarios you pointed out? I can drive it down to your workshop for proper diagnosis n fixing.

GAZZUZZ:


It is unsafe to drive if it is actually an oil pressure related problem. I will suggest you fix it closer to your area.

didymario7:


I have had my fair share of terrible mechanics in d past. Could u Pls recommend a good Honda mechanic who can move around??

where is ochuko? . At the moment I do not know of any that moves about.

gazzuz:


where is ochuko? . At the moment I do not know of any that moves about.

gazzuz:


where is ochuko? . At the moment I do not know of any that moves about.

kingreign:

Ochuko dey pantaker place

didymario7:
Hello guys, mine is a Honda city 2009.

Drove the Car from Apapa and on getting to ikeja, the oil indicator light appeared on the dashboard. When I got home I checked the oil level and it was good.

This morning I turned on the ignition n started the car and after 5mins the oil indicator light appeared again.

What could be the problem?

Thanks in advance.

CC
Luvinhubby
GAZZUZZ