IMASTEX:
This thread was created to showcase my snail farm as away of encouraging the unemployed youths to explore the golden opportunities that lies within, in other to attain financial freedom without having to remain idle "while waiting on their choice employment". And also, to motivate and unveil to the working class the flexibility in snail farming. Thereby making it a very good way of doubling their sources of income. As it often requires most attention in the evenings/night, minimum startup capital, very low morality rate, good return of investment, etc.do you sell formulated feed for snails? How much is your point of lay?

Agriculture remains the only way out, most especially in this present economic reality in Nigeria. This is why, going into the agricultural sector will not only make us self-sufficient but to increase income base.

Checkout my snails.

NACE13:
I watched the show last night, and I can authoritatively tell you all this girl is just an empty drum.
Others couldn't finish because of pressure under the clock but this one was just clueless. I was so so irritated AF
Finally, I know BB9ja brought her just for nudity(which she has disappointed in so far) and fanbase, nothing else.

Shout out to Sir Dee and Ike for completing theirs within 3mins and yeha, Seyi as well.
To whom brain is given, sense is required.

This is why I stopped using just face and physique to rate a woman's beauty. For the sake of your kids, its better to marry an average but intelligent/smart woman than just waste your time and money on 'SymplyTachas'. #Spits in disgust

Pistotita:


I think using NPK 15 15 15 is more cost effective. You don't have 15% Nitrogen on it. So, the manufacturer will add more filler which is not too good. And they call it bloom fertilizer. Hmmmm! But wait! Did you call it organic? Ok. If organic, that is another story. What materials are used to make it? And the urea + npk. Just use NPK 15 15 15 again during flowering. I would ditch the bloom fertilizer if it is synthetic. But if the raw materials are organic, I will go for it since it will help in reducing salt.

But why dont you just use SSP only for phosphorus? And if you will NO later, just subtract that from the SSP you will apply during soil preparation. You need to apply nutrient before sowing. apply nutrient 10 days after sowing is a bad technique. If you apply nutrients in soil before planting cucumber, be ready to run cos that cucumber will be flying.


Why do you delay fertilizer application till 10 days after germination? What will your plants feed on for 10 days? Try to use SSP + NPK inside the holes you are planting. Mix very well and see result. You will be amazed. Then after 10 days, start using urea only.

If MOP works well for you, fine. But for me, it is too expensive to use on open field when there are cheaper options readily available.

Pistotita:


Normally, I do not make comments on cultivars publicly, but since I have started, I think you should bring it on. Most likely I will change this thread's topic to tomato and Cucumber Cultivars, Fungicides, Pesticides, organic options, Questions and Answers, while I start a new thread on the high yield objectives. Let me see if more questions and answers will come by here. I think people have many unanswered questions.

Cu999 is a good cultivar. Believe it. It is a savior in many areas. But there are cultivars in its league presently. It is even getting common in Lagos if you harvest very fast without making it get big. And that is the beauty part of cucumber, if you harvest rapidly, you get better yield. Like if Cu999 is around 300-400grams and you harvest, and you don't allow it to get to 800g or 1kg, you will harvest and get tired. Likewise if greengo is around 200grams and you do not allow it to get to 400grams, you will harvest and get tired. Please, forget all those pictures showing you length and width of fruits using biros/ball pens, rulers, soda PET bottles, etc . It is good, it shows me the capability of the cultivar, but I am more interested in the width and the market determines what to do. My target is to avoid strong seeds inside it. Therefore, for high yield, avoid reaching the maximum level of the cultivars.

If you are doing dutch long varieties that will reach over 30cm or even up to 40cm, shoprite, spar and other brands will never take it from you at this size. It must be small like 20cm or even less like 12 to 15cm. it means you harvest quickly. So, when you prune these kinds, you use sense doing it so you do not end up with loss. If you are pruning Cu999, you use sense too depending on the sizes you are producing. Ignore the gimmicks of extreme big size. But big size cultivars has the advantage of better profit if there is disease on the farm. The smaller the fruits, the more nutritious they are. Rich people go for extreme small sizes, thin skin that get damaged easily, but they are tasty. They prefer refrigerating their veggie. They care less about long life shelf.

In 2014, it was a savior when Nagano messed me up cos I was on a downy mildew infected region. And I had Murano too on the land. But I would not do these 3 combos again. I have better combos based on regions. There are still places like in Ilesha that the best for them is Nagano because it is powdery mildew that is disturbing them and not downy.

Let us look at its flowering pattern. You will first get male flowers. But make no mistake, if you feed it well, especially using the following as basal treatment: NPK + Lime + Magnesium (or you spray Epsom Salt), and you still get the right soil PH for your variety, or for cucumber in general. you must mix veyr well with soil in good proportion ( I educate people on the method of application to get goof PH) or you just do yourself more favor by using 500g to 1kg of manure inside the holes of each plant, and add fertilizers, hmmmmmm! You will see wonders. Let your soil be without zero nutrients, they will dazzle you. Just make sure you have prepared stakes down. Seriously, if you tweak fertilization pattern, spraying and staking pattern, you will see wonders. You will see crazy wonders. You will be panting after your crops cos they will almost make you go mad with their growth. I prefer DAP with Calcium and Magnesium, or SSP with Calcium and MAgnesim. If I do not get theses, I go with NPK + Urea + Calcium (lime and not calcium nitrate) + Magnesium. LAstly never joke with micro-nutrients. From day I, use it for crazy high yield.

The main challenge of Cu999 is that with heat, it will start producing many male flowers. And there will be too many which will reduce your yield. This is peculiar to all monoecious. The solution is to alter the flowering pattern to produce more female flowers from its young age so that when heat comes, you will still have numerous female flowers.

With Cu999, you will not have too many flowers abortion like other cultivars. Like I said, there are other cultivars in this league if you are in a region of dark green skinned color. I have tried some and they are good.

Cu999 is on a good league because it has very good shelf life after harvesting. It will does not get easily spoilt. It will last days, and it is good for buyers and agents. I know a particular cultivar which is very big like Cu999 with some nice resistance to downy, and it will not produce bitter taste, but the downsize is that it has short life shelf after harvest. It is extremely hard to sell when the market is bombarded with cucumbers. When you get to market like mile 12, and you have to compete with five 20 feet containers of cucumbers, then you need long life shelf and fresh ones cos the seller might not finish selling even after 3 days, and they put it under sun. The makers of such cultivars do not expect anyone in his right mind to ever expose cucumber to such harsh weather after harvest. Ha! Craziness dey LAgos, I fear the way many people behave. LOL They subject cucumber to heavy heat inside bags for days under the SUn, and they start blaming you that you should have used better cultivars. LOL. But there are special cultivars for this kind of situation.

Nevertheless, Cu999 has it own cons. The worst is that it will be extremely bitter if heat is too much. There is absolutely nothing you will do except you irrigate crazily or shade it. Shading is not feasible for most people. So, there are periods I advised against using it. You will get zero sales if taste is bitter. It is worst than any kind of disease you will ever think of. Another con is that if you are in a region where dark green skinned is favored, you will sell at reduced pricing. Just not good, but can still be used for optimizing yield even if dark skinned green is the targeted market.

Another con is that to alter the flowering pattern, the enzymes used are on the high price level, but it will take you for a long period of time to finish 1 liter bottle. You get 1 liter, and it serves you for many months, even years. These are imported enzymes that are not readily available. It is with deep observations, coupled with consultation of different researchers from Asia especially before I arrive at this unique style.

In conclusion, it is a cultivar that is good for light green market. You will enjoy it more if you mix another variety which produces smaller fruits (you must get the population ratio right due to your peculiar market), cos you can chase buyers away with big sizes fruits (this is from personal experience). You will sell more if you have smaller sizes added to this big jumbo size cultivar. Very good disease tolerated cultivar, but susceptible to bitter taste which will render it useless after hard work.

Best of luck sir.
Thanks for this. I really appreciate.

ogbongenet:
Good morning pals, I miss everyone here. Farming is a serious time consuming business most especially vegetables. Even I don't have much time to attend to my animals...yes o before it skip my mind I have some matured noiler chicken both female and male for sale.

adetoyeshe:
For meat and for breeding

okoroemeka:
no curative product is available for root nematodes only preventive,it's a very essential part of vegetable planting,if u use a good systemic nematicide on the soil you will not buy other insecticide again for around 50 days any insect that touches the plant will die at the spot.saves money on insecticide s and also time/labour on constant running around with knapsack

okoroemeka:
use small artist brush,pluck one male flower put brush in the flower and rub it gently inside the female flower transferring the pollen,one male flower will pollinate 10 or more females,very stressing spray boiled sugar it will attract many sugar loving insects that will help in pollination.

Bigfellas:
Hello sir . I am interested in planting cucumber next year. I did a test run around June this year on a plot of land just to gain some experience . I planted directly to the soil. It was a ploughed land . I didn't stake it at all and used just one variety of insecticide which I can't remember the name. didn't apply fertiliser at all. I noticed some came out big while others are just small . I got 3bags at least although I did not measure it. Shared among friends and family. now I really want to give it a go this coming raining season so here are my questions

1.. which month is favorable to plant next?
2..In absence of manure, what could be used as replacement?
3.. Is it compulsory to apply fertiliser?
4.. do you have any idea of buyers around Ilaro, Ogun state cos that's where my farm is located.
5.. which is the best seed to plant.

I will be expecting your reply to this questions and other advice you can give. sent you a message on WhatsApp now. You can reply there or here. Thanks