₦airaland Forum

why has there been no update on this thread?
we can sure discuss and analyze scope results, images etc.

ciggy000:
Good evening AutoMechMo
I scanned my vehicle and it brought up a P1659 ECTS malfunction off and several attempts made to clear the code by the electrician proved abortive as the code keeps coming up. currently no major symptoms aside the fact acceleration is not superb as expected. how do I go about this error code. it's a Honda civic

possible areas of fault:
Faulty Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Relay
Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Relay harness is open or shorted
Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) Relay circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

your problem is an electrical fault that still exists in the system. that is why even though you clear the code it will always come back. the ECU is seeing an electrical fault between itself and the throttle control system. they identify all the components in the system, test each and also the wiring.

adonisgold:
My Toyota Highlander , 2002 model was parked for a while, like a month. When I started it , the power steering oil was leaking. Took it to mechanic who replaced some tubes. Since then the steering has become very strong. It is okay sometimes but soon it seizes and becomes very difficult to drive. Pls, help. The Power steering is no longer leaking.

during and after the oil leak, how long did you drive without oil in the power steering?
there is a possibility the pump has been damaged.
also air pockets in the power steering steering will also cause this. was it bled properly after the repair was done?

MRLANNISTER:
Next time please put viewers discretion.

Biko loud it

You mean you wanna collect 1,200,000 naira for this motor?

emmaniche:
Thanks Boss for giving me ears and God bless.

Does this vehicle switch off only when you're in hold up?
When I've driven for almost 2 hours is when I start noticing these signs. The car starts to jerk and %80 of the time it switches off and I have to restart it. It restarts instantly.

Why did the Mechanic suggest another injector?
It was given to different mechanic to check and he advised I change the injector which is just 3 weeks old

If you despress the throttle a little bit while in traffic does it still die?
Yes, It starts to occur after a long drive.

Did he diagnose it himself?

Yes, a different mechanic entirely

I also noticed that after I've driven for a long time, when I throttle up after slowing mostly in traffic or tollgates, the car fails to pickup. I have to wait a while or switch the car off and on it back.

Bosses I need ur help o.

there is definitely a component failing when the engine is hot. a failing crankshaft/camshaft sensor or some other components sometimes exhibits this symptoms. however based on my knowledge, cases like this can be correctly diagnosed while the fault is being exhibited. i would advice you visit a competent mechanic to help you check this vehicle.
to rule out fuel pump, you can carry out a fuel pressure test when it fails.

RicoBee:
Thank you so much for your selflessness @controlmodule It has been fixed.

God bless you.

and you too boss... thank God its fixed

abbeywasc:
Hello house,
My CRV 08 showed check engine light and i noticed i have to top up the water virtually daily(not much though)
The ABS light is also on.

Did a scan and got a P2185 code (Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT)
Abeg, please advise before kazeem tell me something else

I actually had a recent work done on it due to an impact. The fuel pump and crankshaft had to be replaced.
Thanks

1. for coolant top-up, you need test the cooling system. there is a leak somewhere. either internal or external. you need to pressure test the system to identify where the coolant leaks from.
2. for the ABS light, you need to scan the ABS module and retrieve codes
3. for the P2185 code, for starters check the following;
i. the cause of Low coolant level
ii. Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
iii. Stuck or leaking thermostat Engine
iv. Coolant Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
v. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

also note the code might have been set because of the leak so i would advice you find and fix the leak first, clear the codes and check if it comes back

TheNewAgeFarmer:
There is a crack in one of the hose connecting the filter and the throttle body.

thats the hose for the crank case ventilation. that shouldn't cause a problem even if its cracked since its just unmetered air getting in. unless the PCV valve has failed i.e. stuck open. That's the only situation where-in blocking that's hole will make the engine run better since there is no more channel for unmetered air to get into the crankcase and then into the combustion chamber

radautoworks:
Call number in signature. Not in town

RicoBee

TheNewAgeFarmer:
the two ports were blocked before I bought the car. Then the mech opened the bigger hose that is connected to the filter and block that with a paper and glue. The car has been driving without ac. With all these blocking and blocking I am suspecting a bad throttle body.

from this picture, all those pipes/hoses blocked are for the EGR system. however that shouldn't be causing a "brake and stall" problem. i suspect the "new hole" he blocked only helped to reduce the multiple vacuum leaks u have been experiencing initially.
The pipe he blocked from the air filter might be the PCV hose. that might not solve your problem. at this point i will advice you try find a competent tech to help you check your car.

i would further suggest you check the following;
1. dirty throttle body
2. failed/dirty idle control valve
3. leaking brake system (brake diaphragm)
4. multiple vacuum leaks

TheNewAgeFarmer:
Thanks. This morning the mech blocked a hole in the throttle body. I drove for like 8km without issues, just when I was happy issues came up again. It’s sickening. Should I go for scan?.

well i presume the paper wasnt enough to block the vacuum leakage.
however just to better understand. pls can you possible take a picture of this mysterious hole?
also have you noticed any hissing sound when the engine runs? where does it come from?
when you depress your brake, have you noticed any reduction in braking performance?

erico2k2:
I always frown at people add or removing stuff from components of cars, Check you car brake booster as advised most importantly Scan ur car for fault codes.

i wont be surprised if the problem was created by that mechanic himself.

RicoBee:
Hello everyone. Please my car is in Lekki Phase one at the moment. I just discovered that the fan isn't working and I really need to use it. It is a Toyota Corolla 2003 model. I need an electrician to help fix it.08098065224 is the number to call. Thank you.

hanty Radu aka Radautoworks. can you help with this edakun?

DaCharis2016:
Pls where can I do d scan?

Thank you.

this is where you need the services of a competent tech with an advanced scanner. this is just to ensure there are no hidden faults

DaCharis2016:
I'm a about to buy a Honda Civic 2004 naija used at 4undredkay. And it's my first... What should I look out for in order to get a good one.

How do I check the history with the VIN myself.

Kindly contribute your views and opinions.

Thanks.

others will contribute on the VIN check
however checks you can do yourself
1. body: check for rust on the body, chassis and underbody
2. electricals: check the engine bay, fuse boxes, under dash. look out for wires running everywhere out of spec.
3. engine: start the engine, listen to the cranking sound, running sound. pay attention for grinding sounds, knocking sounds.
4. transmission: ensure you do a test drive. vehicle should drive smooth. there shouldn't be jerking when changing gears, or slow response when you throttle at a higher RPM.
5. Comprehensive scan: scan all available system module like the engine, transmission, ABS, SRS, any other available module. note the codes retrieved if any

TheNewAgeFarmer:
Good Day. I recently bought a car (used)from this forum, Camry 2001, Auto Transmission, i4. To be honest it’s a big regret. I live in Benin and I had to send a friend, who took a mechanic along to inspect the car. Car was certified okay by the mechanic. But when I came for the car I discovered that whenever I am driving and I apply break it shuts off. I managed it to Benin like that and the next day I took it to the mech for repairs.
Fuel pump was changed, engine sensor, to cut the long story short, I have spent more than 28k trying to fix the issue of break and quench with different mech and electricians. Right now I don’t know who to blame, the seller or the mechanic that inspected the car and certified it okay. Please help is needed urgently on how to fix this issue. Thank you..

sorry about this unfortunate ordeal.
the issue is with your brake booster. the diaphragm is most likely torn resulting in vacuum leak btw d braking system and the the engine.
solution would replacement of your brake booster.

whats happening here?

nurey:
I think it's all in the head

let's see the connection first and the resistors in particular

That's how they spread coronavirus to cars

hehehe na so corollavirus turn superstar o

tppzzy01:
Pls I need urgent help right now on my Honda accord 02, my kazeem help me to service my nozzle yesterday and today my gear is sludging. It will take high firing for the gear to select to gear 2 and more fire to gear 3 and will not select again. I took it back to him, he said I should take it to my rewire, that he did not go to the area of gear. Of which, I just change my gear oil some few weeks ago... Right now, the rewire self don't know what is the problem. He is saying he will re service the nozzle . Pls any help or suggestion.

as suggested by Billiebaba kindly scan the vehicle. kincly find a competent tech sir. where are u located?

[quote author=geezonaire1415 post=84231839][/quote]available

Mrford:
I thought this thread was for educational purpose, yet you all keeping laying emphasis on the importance of scope diagnosis and how you have been using it to solve a thousand and one problem but no one have been able to state a problem he encountered in the past and a step by step explanation of how he solved it using an oscilloscope so that learning can take place. Or is it just to inform us that u make use of scope?

loud eet

tensazangetsu20:
To diy and other car enthusiasts. If you want to learn to use car oscilloscopes just spend your money on getting a very high end scan tool. Most of them come equipped with lab scopes. Tools like the Bosch kts and ADS 625 come with oscilloscopes as standard.

dont you think such scan tools are too costly for DIYers?
certain things are just to be left for the professionals....

empron:
The best ever,when u run a scan on a module with no code and their is fault present.Scope waveform is superd and accurate especially when I am troubleshooting "crank but no start on nissan cars their cam and crank sensor can give headache.

wow.. this is beautiful
can you possibly share some shots of some of your diagnosis?

available....

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet....
nice one... this will sure be an interesting thread..

autoelectng radautoworks trygo honmusa and the rest of our diagnosis gurus...

you're all welcome here ooo

SA

ayi1513:
Abey, make una help a brother with info pls

Yes of course it is very well possible. It is a replaceable part. But some work will be done on the dash. It will be dismantled to an extent to be able to gain access to and replace it.

HeavenlyBang:
Lol, what is this nonsense? Who forgets to turn off their car?

All the peoplw that dies in the post... hehehehe