rmx:


Do commercial not industrial, those pictures are cement board wall partitions for office , eatery and bakery space in an open floor space for a supermarket , with pop boarding for ceiling . The most appropriate solution if you don’t want to do block works after all tiling and other civil works has been completed

My point still stands that cement boards are more expensive than using pop boards either for ceiling or for wall partitioning or for basically anything . I know cos I use both regularly .Maybe cheaper outside Nigeria

Now I think I got you. Of course plasterboard is cheaper per square meter than cement board. So this is even a better argument against PVC and Polystyrene ceiling.

However, plasterboard MAY not work out being cheaper than cement board as cement board is a factory FINISHED product near plug and play - screw it up, joint it and paint.

But with plasterboard it is prone to moisture and damp and water damage. So plasterboards must be protected from water damage by skimming over it (screeding)/plastering before painting. This process might just even out the cost differential or even add more.

I have not used plasterboard ceiling solution in Nigeria before. This is something I will need to crunch the numbers in my coming project to see if it works better for me than cement board in certain situations.

You use "POP board". Just to be clear, you mean actual POP boards and not plasterboard? Is that right?

rmx:


Wont agree to the last paragraph , cement board more expensive . Been using both for all my projects for years . Installation is basically the same for both , Pop boards comes in 1.2m x 3 m , cement boards come in 1.2 x 2.4 meter yet more expensive , likely 30 to 50 % more , don’t do wood , use hanger ,profiles , angles , screws , etc

Use cement boards for wall partitioning since they are stronger and sturdier while pop boards for ceiling .pix from an ongoing project

Cement board are not the right solution for an industrial project such as yours. POP boards as you would know are the right solution. For residential (home) projects, fibre boards are effective alternatives to installed POP at a fraction of the cost.

fashrola:



thank you so much........ So that means before woodwork, I have to determine the size i will use before the nogging right?

Do Nigerite have any distributor or installer in Akwa Ibom?

The fibre board are of standard size. To save cost, decide what you want from the beginning - POP or Fibre board. When you are doing your roof wood work, tell the carpenter to nog for POP or Fibre.

There must be in Awkward Ibom.

PrimeQuay:


Installation accessories & installation cost should also be added to the price of the board.

You are very correct but this will not impact considerably on the differences in price.

Beframia:
Do the joints (or edges) need to be secured using wooden batons like the old asbestos ceiling we know? Could you please share a pic of your installation?

No. The joints are not secured by wooden batons. However, you can if that style is your thing.

STEP ONE
Screw your fibre board to the noggins.

STEP TWO
Joint the boarding with jointing tape (see attached photos)

STEP THREE
Apply primer to the joints (see photos)

STEP FOUR
Sand paper joints for a smooth surface. Clean off dust and paint with choice of colour.

Rocket scientist not needed.

fashrola:


I'm just hearing fiber-cement board for the first time, i guess because POP is the rave of the moment in interior designing now

I've "googled" about the fiber-cement board and its a very good choice of material, since its resistance to fire, heat and mold

I'm currently building at the moment but i would like to know more about this fiber-cement board before i choose it as my preferred ceiling choice

1. Does it has the same wood arrangement like the POP? or it has own dimension when carrying out the woodwork
2. Does it come in different sizes and thickness?
3. Apart from Nigerite, do we have another manufacturer in Nigeria that can compete in quality and price?
4. Any idea how much this fiber-cement board cost?
5. Does it require special installations or the POP guys can still install it?

VanuatuWycombe:


Discounted price, as received from a sales person from Nigerite, in case one is buying up to 1500 pieces - altogether

6mm - N13,300
8mm - N15,850
10mm - 20,500

No 4mm available at Nigerite.



Non-discounted price.
6mm - N13,700
8mm - N16,500
10mm - 21,000

These were as of last week Wednesday.

Sinoma’s price is Jesse than that of Nigerite.

1. Does it have the same nogging as POP?
No. A 6mm fibre cement board (N13,300) will be about 1.24mm x 2.44mm in size. So the size of the board will determine your nogging. So you have to decide from the beginning what ceiling solution that you want when roofing. The carpenter that will do your roofing wood work SHOULD also do your nogging. You will save a lot by so doing than having the carpenter to only do your roofing wood work. When you now want to do ceiling, you will spend extra more doing the nogging first.

2. Fibre cement come in different sizes.

3. Apart from Nigerite, there are other fibre cement boards imported into Nigeria. There is also Eminite as well.

4. Price?

I'm currently not on ground in Nigeria, so I don't know the current price but see above [quote author=VanuatuWycombe post=129798458]


From @VanuatuWycombe post, a 6mm board should be about 1.24mm x 2.44mm in size. This is about 3m2 (3 square meter). If the price is N13,300, this translate to about N4, 400 per square meter.

Mind you, POP installation cost about N8,000 per square meter ALL INCLUSIVE. This tells you that with hard bargain and proper planning, you can deliver fibre cement ceiling for about half the cost (or just above) of POP and far, far better than PVC or Polystyrene.

5. Does it require special installation?
Everything in Nigeria is a rocket science requirement but to be honest, your carpenter can do this. Just screw the board to your nogging. It is called ceiling boarding. Joint the gaps (if this is your thing) and paint. Shikena!

So instead of PVC or Polystyrene, one can do POP in the living room and then fibre cement in the rooms. This works. Or spend a bit more use fibre cement to do the design you want in the living room and the clean straightforward design in the rooms.

UPDATE
SInoma Price:

6mm 1220 x 2440mm. That is 3 square meter for N10,500. This translates to N3,500 per square meter.

POP is about N8000 per square meter ALL INCLUSIVE. Fibre cement is half the price of POP. Say no to PVC or Polystyrene.

Jokay07:
My
This firber cement board, is it different from the regular old abestos we used to use?

Yes it is different. It is thicker and made mainly from cement mixed with fibre. The fibre infused and thickness means you can work it into organic designs without it breaking easily.

The old asbestos is made purely to a large extent from asbestos which causes cancer. It is so slime (about 0.5mm), that it is difficult to work into organic designs without the risk of breakage. You can only achieve geometric designs (four corner).

However, in terms of FINISHED product, yes they are both the same.

lorhema:


Good morning Diordaves.
Please do you know of motorised drilling rigs in Ikorodu, like the Indians operate elsewhere?

Thanks for your response.

Good afternoon, Madam Honourable. I don't know of any even in the whole of Lagos. I'm not sure, but I think the South West is serviced by the Ibadan drillers.

SurveyorLAS:
Do you handle this, if yes pls let discuss, I im involve in a project in which we are considering ceiling type to be use

I'm not a contractor. I'm just a developer on the side.

michlins:
we come to where the work wants us.

Abuja is a city I actually want to explore

We dey plan something for Warri that is right up your alley after the raining season. By God's Grace.

Beframia:

There's this option of using plaster board/gypsum board. Do you have any idea about its usage or is it the same as fiber cement?

Yes, there is also the option for plaster board and gypsum board. Materials wise, plaster board and gypsum board are the same thing to be honest. It is just nomenclatures and semantics. But cement fibre board are remarkably different. These are FINISHED products that offer quick, simple installation.

With cement fibre board, all you need do is your nogging. Take your fibre board and screw it (or follow the manufacturers' recommendation) to your noggings. Joint it and then paint with your choice of colour. Shikena!

Fibre cement offers a quick simple installation at a fraction of the cost in relation to POP installation and gypsum/plaster board. Two people working can complete ceiling boarding a standard 3 bedroom bungalow in one day ready for painting.

Nomyth:


This is really impressive.

Hope the price difference with POP is substantial.

And hope the money saved on POP will not be spent on wood?

For a clean, simple straightforward design, fibre cement consumes less wood.

Beframia:
Do you have a sample pic of an installed fiber cement ceiling? Kindly share if you do.

I don't have a personal picture unfortunately but here are some from the internet.

Port443:

Can you get exact design as that of a normal pop? In terms of cost, when compared to pop which one is costlier?

Nigerite fibre cement is cheaper to install with minimal screeding of the joints to have a continuous finish.

However, if you now wish to over engineer it to have organic finish like installed POP, you might as well do POP as it would cost you more at the end of the day.

Fibre cement is for a clean, simple modern budget ceiling solution.

VanuatuWycombe:


Do you work there? If yes, how do you sell them? 4mm, 6mm, 8mm and 10mm. Total purchase up to 1500 - delivery in Ede, around Osogbo.

I'm not working there o. I'm just an ordinary homeowner. There must be a distributor in Osogbo. Ask well.

Rany4all:
Ok, great...but what about its thermal and sound insulating properties? Just as good as POP?

Nigerite boards have a thickness of 3mm. If you are going to screed over, then this will add 2mm to the thickness with a total of 5mm thickness. This is about the average thickness of POP installations. So you will get about the same thermal and sound insulation as your average POP installation.

Rany4all:
Can fibre cement boards be installed so that they appear like a wall-to-wall continuous plain flat ceiling with no designs, partitions or cornices?

Yes. Just screed over the design to get a smooth finish if this is your thing. You can also screed over joints to have a continuous finish.

CircleOfWilis:
give us examples

Nigerite fibre cement ceilings

Rany4all:
In that case, I wonder why no one seems to have similar concerns with PVC ceilings, or is PVC not a petroleum product again? Will PVC ceiling not melt and drip on the floor as well?

And irrespective of whether your ceiling is polystyrene, POP or concrete, if your house is on fire and you do not escape in time, the smoke and, most importantly, depleted oxygen conditions will probably kill you before the fire gets to you. Smoke doesn't suck oxygen. Oxygen is required for combustion and is depleted by the process of burning, no matter the source of fire.

Nor be only smoke from burning polystyrene fit kill person o.

All na the same ten and ten pence. Polystyrene o, PVC o, whatever you call it, all na the same. I've campaigned against the use of PVC ceiling on this forum in the past. There are better, safer affordable ceiling solutions in the market.

Rany4all:
Agree 💯...but this fear of construction polystyrene bursting into flames is totally unfounded. It would simply melt if it comes in contact with fire, unlike a piece of cloth that would catch fire and spread it to other parts of the house, yet we don't hear anyone saying we shouldn't have curtains or bedsheets in our homes.

I think you are getting it all wrong. The issue is not if polystyrene will burst into flames. The issue is, polystyrene is a product of petroleum crude. It is not a wise decision to clad homes in petroleum products. This is not the same thing as doors. Doors retard to a limited extent the spread of fire. Polystyrene propagate the spread of fire.

When there is fire, it is not the FIRE flames that kills. It is the smoke, poisonous gas and the lack of oxygen that kills. In the event of fire, polystyrene cladded ceiling will melt and drip to the floor, making escape and rescue difficult. Polystyrene will emit black poisonous smoke, sucking up the oxygen which can lead to death.

No, it is not advisable to clad your home with petroleum products.

bolu1986:
Dear clients


For safety sake don’t do heavy pop design under deck! Make it moderate!


Make sure you use the right materials as well to avoid story like the one in this video

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6UalToMrtF/?igsh=MXZxbXB3aTFnYzgwMQ==

How do you fix yours?

The best practice for decking is to nog the decking with 2×4 or 4×4 and attach/tie the pop to the noggin instead of gumming it direct to the decking. It is a lot of work noggin a decking but it is worth it on safety grounds.

therealMcCain:
Hello to the house

Please I need suggestions on Self Contain apartment on a 50x100 land.

I need a contemporary design. The Architects I have engaged have not been able to give me what I want. I came up with this and I need your input.

1. I like Cross ventilation for the rooms. Folks have advised that since I am not going to stay, I shouldn't bother about it. I still want 2 windows for the rooms.

2. I like the idea of detached units(2 room), this gives me room to work and finish per unit without pressure(Budget Build)

3. What is the safest minimum spacing between each units-will 1m work?

4. Is there any disadvantage in this type of structure or arrangement?


Similar to this build https://www.nairaland.com/2971878/keeping-it-simple-n-clean

CC
twinskenny
mufutau55
OnMyHonor
michlins
diordaves

Adopting detached units is about the best approach, so I'm surprised that your architect is struggling to give you what you want in relation to cross ventilation of the rooms. You will struggle to get cross ventilation for the rooms if you adopt the terrace approach.

You are adopting the detached approach due to budgeting but this is more expensive to build as you will spend more on labour and materials cost.

Structurally, the distance of one meter between each units should be "safe" but I will go for a meter and a half for accessibility, flexibility of design, maintenance and fire overflow.

If cross ventilation is still an issue, see the attached two bedrooms floor plan. This is a classical two bed design. All rooms are cross ventilated, the living room is cross ventilated, the kitchen is cross ventilated with a balcony. Have a look at the plan to either adopt it or improve on it like for example, introducing a VT at the entrance and ensuite the second bedroom if that is your thing.

mufutau55:


For me, I wanted an area where I can do “ Owambe” and entertain hence the stamped concrete of almost one plot.

Hajji M.

Yes. I see what you have achieved here. This is a domestic open air event centre. Some call it flexible event centre. I can also see the near zero maintenance palm trees. Very nice. One can easily see how the introduction of the trees brings a different dimension to the stamped concrete. You can't beat the beauty of nature.

Homeowners should look more into embracing plants, trees, flowers, herbs in compound solutions and mixing in stamped concrete or interlocking tiles. The fear of reptiles is an unfounded fear.

michlins:
it's simple. People are getting busy more than ever and taking care of trees is a chore not everyone is cut out for

This is the unhealthy effect of modern living. Busy, Busy and more busy that one does not have time for one's mental health and well being which nature can offer by tendering domestic flowers, plants and trees. No feeling can beat sitting under a tree on a hot and sunny day mostly in Africa playing draft and drinking palmmy. The feeling is priceless.

sonnie10:

Maintenance of garden is tasking. Every two weeks or so, you are cutting grasses and trimming shrubs. Even when you have mechanical tools to do these things, weeds in very hard to reach places must be hand pulled. Herbicides are not my thing, the cost of chemotherapy or radiotherapy can even build one duplex.
At the end, you spend most of your weekends when you are supposed to rest mending your yard. Except if you can afford a paid gardener, then no problem.
Another thing is insects, even rodents and reptiles. Guess what flooring type would be more inhabitable for them?

Inactivity is a major health issue for everyone from a certain age. So home gardening offers an option to be active and good for mental health and well being as well. Rodent and reptiles are 100% preventable at minimal or no cost. There is absolutely no need to use herbicides or harmful chemicals.

twinskenny:
Why don’t people consider tiles for outside flooring?


This right here is well done and beautiful

Might be cheaper too

Stamp is good but the heat during hot weather is something else

Tiles will also absorb heat and release it back into the compound. Stamped concrete and compound tiles are bad for the environment as they encourage heat, localised flooding and erosion.

Grass (field turf), flowers and trees are best compound solution. One could execute a compound garden concept from just 50k with amazing result. Grass, flowers and trees (nature) are incredibly natural heat absorber and expeler.

So my own is why are homeowners not exploring the garden solution..

sonnie10:
Do a new fence or just put modern pillars and plaster this one?

Trying to save cost . Fencing is on more than 2 acres.

Have you settled for a fence design? You do not have to bring the fence down. Those blocks are better than any block you could buy today. I would browse the internet for a fence design and settle for a befitting design and then work the old fence into fitting the design I settle for. How much is one block again? N600? Multiply that and you will see the uneconomic approach of knocking the whole thing down.

Zino89:
oh thanks the reason is because of flood..see yesterday’s rain ….we wanted to build duplex at the initial stage after rasing it we changed our mind

This is a case of inappropriate foundation. The adopted foundation is not the right design for the topography. Breaking one part of the house and turning it into a storey building without addressing the inappropriate foundation will not solve the problem. It may even make it worse.

You need to correct the foundation and because it's a bungalow, you will have to remove the roof, break and evacuate the concrete floor and sand fill the floor to FOUR courses high at the lowest part of the building. A structural/civil engineer should determine this. Do a DPC - and then add blocks to raise the head height of the building before roofing.

It very vital to get your foundation right. A failed foundation can be very expensive to fix.

saydfact:


My personal opinion:

A lintel is a bridge over a short opening, it's not a structural element hence, I see it as a waste of money everytime.

If you want to tie the building round, do a roof beam or a ground beam.

Lintel is NOT a structural element that's why our fore fathers used wood, bamboo etc and that's why no Engineer designs a lintel.

Goodluck.

Your position can be seen as contradictory. If you want to tie the building, you can as well use all round chaining, if you can use roof beam or ground beam. All na the same outcome: they spread the load at the level introduced.

All round chaining apart from spreading the load, has one unique advantage: you can knock down walls to make changes or introduce openings safely without the fear of collapse and the added need to introduce lintel.

michlins:
buy a key with slimmer frame.

Good morning

Do you think a key with a slimmer frame will solve the issue?

The problem is the allowance between the key hole and the metal door frame. There is not enough allowance to turn the key and lock/open the door. Will a slimmer key frame increase the allowance? I'm not too sure it will.

Meklex:
What can I do to this? The door frame is preventing me from turning the key

Wahala dey o. Na who install the door?

It is a wrong size of door. The door is bigger (wider) than the opening.

Take down the entire door and frame. Knock back the wall to widen the door opening to the appropriate width. Install back the frame, dress it and hang back the door.

If the door comes together with the frame (metal door), take the whole thing down, widen the opening to the right size and install again.

If all the above is not the case, check the hinges. The hinges may be out of sync and loose. Check the screws and tighten.

Ndyoo:
I am in a dilemma. I bought two plots of land recently, one already surveyed and the other not. My question now is, can I survey both of them as one and or I should just survey the other land.

Or is it best to just survey the remaining land?

I look forward to your recommendations. Thank you in advance!

Why are you in a dilemma? This is a straightforward best practice process. You must now survey the whole plot in YOUR NAME. Any previous surveys are not in your name or are they?

The survey details (coordinates) bearing your name should then be included in the deed assignment by your lawyer for the seller to sign with a witness. These form in part your ownership of the land.

Note: the survey plan MUST be registered at your local government (State) council. Some call this FULL SURVEY. It is important not to do a joke meaningless survey that is not registered.