₦airaland Forum

It's an 06
And i know it's an accord in another body

I want to know if I'm to take it to a locksmith or a rewire

kingreign:
No mention of the year of the vehicle.

That said, it can be replaced. They share parts with Honda accord of similar year. Prices differs with location and sellers decision.

Before he takes it to a rewire, he should find somewhere to rent a battery or a friend to borrow from and he should make sure it's a healty battery cos a battery able to start your car doesn't mean it's healty.
Then he should leave it in the car overnight and see.


A friend of mine had a 09 Corolla that all of a sudden started killing battery overnight, his rewire said it's probably an electrical issue just like you mentioned. He tried everything he could but the car still dies, he even borrowed battery from the same electrician overnight. Same thing happened.
Then i finally convinced him to just get another battery and if the issue still persist then he's very sure his car do have an electrical fault.
He bought the battery and sometimes he barely use the car for a week, car always starts right up..

His battery might just have giving up on him

Gombs:
I used to have this issue. It was an electrical problem. The light in the window switch was always on, even after engine is turned off. So, by morning, the battery is drained. So, i used to then remove battery head after parking at home for the day. Eventually, i got a good electrician who traced the issue and fixed it.

Get a good electrician to check your components. ..because, you might buy another battery and the situation persists.

The accord and the Lexus are both great cars

As per fuel consumption, the lexus carries a 3.3L v6 engine if I'm correct while the accord has both a 2.4L 4 cylinder engine and also a v6

If you're looking a car with good fuel mileage, reliable and cheap to maintain, the 2.4L 4 cylinder version of the accord is your best bet.

While the mazda and the passat are also great cars, the Lexus and Honda are still a much better choice

aybaba1999:
Pls I need Professional help on this. I intend getting a car but presently in a state of confusion on the type of car to get, I plan getting one of this
Lexus Es 330
Passat 2012 cc
Eagle Spirit 2010model
Mazda 9

Which of these can be recommended in terms of fuel consumption, cost of repairs and maintenance
I am a first time car user
Thanks

I think you should first confirm the condition of your fuel pump, it might be giving up and you might not know, cos according to you, most of the time you had issues starting thr car, your tank was almost empty.

HitmanDembele:
Hello guys.
My vehicle, a Rav 4 2004 model with a 2AZ engine refused to start as it just cranks whenever I attempt to start the vehicle. The fuel gauge was at E before I parked it and then I didn’t attempt to start it until about 7 days later when I wanted to warm the car, that’s when I noticed it was just cranking without starting. I figured maybe the fuel level was too low so I purchased 10litres of fuel and attempted to start to no avail. I got another battery as I figured maybe my battery had run down a little but still no startup. Called the first rewire guy and he attempted fixing it by checking all the fuses and using that light bulb stuff but it didn’t start and he stated that the brain-box was faulty. I called another rewire guy the next day who had helped me before as I had experienced a similar issue of no startup but on this occasion I was driving when the vehicle turned off and when I checked the battery head had pulled off, fuel level was also on E on this occasion. I attempted starting the vehicle and it just cranked but on this occasion the rewire guy was able to get it working again.
There was also another instance before this present one where the battery head pulled off while I was driving and the vehicle turned off and when I attempted starting the vehicle again it just cranked. Fuel was also on E. I found a rewire guy close by and after so many tries he wasn’t able to get it to start and as night was approaching he manually put the vehicle in drive and we pushed it to his shop and on getting there I attempted starting the vehicle and it turn led on.
So presently now, the rewire guy that helped me before has stated that the ECU is faulty as it’s not supplying to 2 of the coils and that I’ll need to change it.
Please guys is his recommendation on point?

My Acura tsx key is refusing to go inside the ignition.
Firstly i noticed the key doesn't go in the ignition slot seamlessly as it should be, like it get stuck a bit in the Middle but sill enters.
But after washing my car this evening it has become harder for the key to go in fully.
I read online and discovered the ignition lock is faulty.

My question now is, who do i take the car to for fixing and how much am i looking to spend on a new ignition lock if that's really the issue

You mean i can use the inverter to power load with just sunlight and total absent of battery?

And does the inverter have a service center in lagos?

kiekie1:
BRAND NEW SAKO HYBRID INVERTER! LUCKY BUYER!!!

- Brand new Sako 3.5kw 24v sunon pro hybrid inverter "Works without battery".. 330k 325k

- Foreign 4.8mm² pro solar roof mounts also in stock.


Location >> Lagos state


See contact details in profile

I'm just reading this and this looks like a threat 😂
But also true

dollarnaira:
All batteries including car batteries will serve you within short period of installation. Which will stand test of time is the question that no longer beg for answers.

Let me push small fear into your spine.Unless you power just tv, charging, and bulbs will this set up do 2 or 3 years or less with careful pampering before you will notice large difference in capacity. Raining season is even coming....how will you full charge it?Sulphation will kill it by then.

If you add freezer, iron, etc be rest assured your system will fail in less than a year.

Assuming you didn't know this thread before now it would have been a different issue of "had I know". But you deliberately shot your upper limb with your eyes opened .

2 tubulars is roughly 550k or more, that is more than the cost of 16 pieces of 50ah LifePO4 at 48v with more than 12yrs life span mixed with rugged usage along with washing machine, freezer, iron, all electronics etc without pampering. Today is April 3, 2025 see you in 2026 for update.

How's their delivery fee?

HeavenlyBang:
Yes. First time took about a week. Second time took weeks. Home delivery, yes.

Can a 12v 2kva inverter power a 1hp AC?
I know it's not recommended i just want to know if it can power it
If not, what about a 24v 2.5kva?

Do you have a contact of any of their sales person?

I got a number from their website, the person is refusing to give me a price list

HeavenlyBang:
Contact HMSolar. They have an office around Festac IIRC.

How did you know it's a 77 Chevy Impala?

kingreign:
It's because you're driving a chevy impala 1977 model. They don't come with evap systems.

Hybrid please
Cost of a good mppt charge controller isn't cheap

Anyone0455:
Definitely going for the 2.5kva upgrade and external charger controller
Should I go with hybrid or normal inverter

It has a Mass air pressure (MAP) sensor but no MAF

Check the comments on this video also


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peNJEvmub1A?si=CL1P9kJ-I9SNBbUm

jceesquare:
Your 1st gen 06 Acura TSX should have a MAF sensor.
I might be wrong though.

First gen Acura tsx 06

If i could just get a well skilled technician, I'm sure it shouldn't be that much of a hassle to fix it.

My RPM is always below 1000 after the car worms up, i think that's normal for all cars at idle

I was recommended to a technician in my area, i was explaining things about the fuel trim to him, this guys was just quiet, i doubt he has heard of fuel trim before, all they know how to do is to replace different parts and sensor without proper diagnostic there by costing car owners unnecessarily spending

jceesquare:
Yes your STFT shouldn't exceed ±10 if you meet several parameters at idle.
A slightly higher RPM would cause a wrong reading.
Intake leaks would cause a spike and wrong reading.
Any form of load (no matter how little) would give you wrong reading if you want to use that for diagnosis.
Clogged and restricted airflow would not give you good reading.
The list goes on and on.
So you need so much to be in shape to use the STFT to monitor your mpg rate as it shows the computers real time adjustment to a perfect air to fuel ratio, that's why most technicians prefer using the LTFT most especially for remote diagnosis like this.
What year is the Acura again? Strange to hear it does not have a MAF sensor.

I mentioned i got toks 02 sensor before buying from China
Both 02 sensors works according to the readings from the
obd scanner

kingreign:
Get factory OEM sensors or tokumbo. Chinese sensors or generic sensors most times do NOT work 98% of thr time.

The LTFT readings are normal but the STFT reading aren't normal. A normal reading fuel trim reading should be between -10 to +10. Nothing above nothing below.

I don't think the first gen of Acura Tsx use a MAF sensor, I've confirmed online and checked around the intake hose where MAF sensor are usually connected, nothing. Instead i have one sensor that I don't know the name

As for 02 sensor, i first got a toks downstream sensor, when i didn't see any results, i order both up stream and downstream o2 sensor from china and fixed myself.. it's been like 3 months now


I know I'm not supposed to expect the exact factor rated mpg on the car cos lf it's age. But in my case it's just absurd. I'm getting less than or almost half of the rated fuel efficiency.
I've spoken to other people using my same model car and driven some, they have far better fuel efficiency than mine.
This car share same 2.4l engine as the EOD and crv. Those cars have good fuel efficiency

jceesquare:
If you're getting a ±5 LTFT, then your fuel trim reading is fine.
There are several factors that would make your car run rich or consume more petrol as it were.
1. Dirty MAF sensor and dirty or clogged air filter. You can confirm this by physically inspecting the condition of the air filter. Also confirm if your MAF reading is not beyond 3.0 gram per sec at idle without any load on the car (gear on P, steering straight, foot off the brake and aircon off)
2. Your AF sensor (oxygen sensor) is fine and not clogged with carbon.

Other things to consider are
1. Ensure you're not running bigger than recommended wheel size.
2. Tyres are properly inflated.
3. You're not hauling unnecessary load in the car.
4. You drive responsibly. No hard acceleration and braking.
5. Plan your route well so you don't stay longer than necessary in traffic.

As a bonus, you shouldn't expect factory MPG for the following reasons.
1. Wear and tear on the engine (old age catching up on it)
2. Poor fuel quality with lowere octane rating.
3. Parasitic draw from bad or dying parts on the serpentine belt line. Seizing compressor, power steering, and alternator pulleys.

My colleagues can add to the list if I forgot any.

Usually my car also a perform a little better on highway driving, whenever I'm going on a Trip (take Lagos to ibadan for an instance) i first of all fuel atleast 20k fuel untop whatever i have on it then i reset the trip meter. Once i start driving and hit highway, i get upto 20mpg (my trip meter calculates miles not Km) but once I'm done with the highway driving, it goes down bit by bit till it get back to the 10-12mpg.

My fuel consumption is that bad that i use 4 liters fuel for 20km city trip.. no way that's normal

Edit: according to my calculations 12km/ litres approximate to about 28Mpg which is around what an average Acura tsx was rated for highway consumption if you check online

vivalavida:
If u were in lagos, would have referred you to @jceesquare.

I drive an 08 tsx. I am not sure it is cool with city driving. Use to complain about the fuel consumption. Bought 0xygen sensor twice. But last xmas, I decided to take it on a trip from lagos to owerri and I drove. At asaba was when I crossed half tank. The road was free. If I powered on, one tank will land me in owerri from lagos. Mine also has a trip meter which shows my fuel consumption reading. I was doing close to 12km per liter which was impressive. Another way to enjoy the car is always have substantial amount of fuel in the car. No dey buy all the 5k,7k fuel. Fill up your tank and watch it.

LTFT is usually between -5 to +5
As for the last screenshot, IDK if that has anything to do with fuel consumption, but that's the only code I've not been able to clear off the car.
I've tried upto 3 tokunbo radiator coolant sensor, didn't work. I even order brand new one online, still didn't work. I've use multimeter to test the connection, i got about 4-5 volts so i assume it's getting power from the ECU

The code has been there since i got the car till now

jceesquare:
Diagnosing with the STFT is not straightforward as compared to the LTFT. Drive the car longer to see what the Long term trim is reading then post reading.

Currently staying in ibadan, i use to stay in Ikorodu lagos

vivalavida:
Are u in lagos?
If yes, where?

The issue now is
Most so called rewire (electrician) doesn't even know how a car fuel trim works not to even mention short time fuel trim
And that's making it had for me to find someone that really know and understand how to read a car live data with an OBD scanner.
That's the only way we can know the exact sensor causing the high fuel trim issue.

JoeSef0:
I have an issue for high fuel consumption on my 06 Acura tsx (Honda accord euro).
This issue has been there since i got this car about 6 months ago, previous owner says the can doesn't consume fuel but i know for sure that's cap.
I get 10-12 mpg at average which is very very poor, that's like half of normal milage i should be getting.
I've taken it to different technicians, catalytic converter, new o2 sensors, spark plugs, coolant temperature sensor and other has been replaced. Nothing changed.
Until few months ago i got a small OBD scanner, and with the help of my research online, i was able to diagnose the issue of the car which is that the car has very high short time fuel trim of about 30 most times.

See pic below

I have an issue for high fuel consumption on my 06 Acura tsx (Honda accord euro).
This issue has been there since i got this car about 6 months ago, previous owner says the can doesn't consume fuel but i know for sure that's cap.
I get 10-12 mpg at average which is very very poor, that's like half of normal milage i should be getting.
I've taken it to different technicians, catalytic converter, new o2 sensors, spark plugs, coolant temperature sensor and other has been replaced. Nothing changed.
Until few months ago i got a small OBD scanner, and with the help of my research online, i was able to diagnose the issue of the car which is that the car has very high short time fuel trim of about 30 most times.

See pic below

S23U

WantsandMore:
which of the item?

Trip A isn't the Odometer
That's just the miles the car has gone since the last time it was serviced or reset

SamuelLoch:
Good morning,

I have a Toyota Rav4 2015 for sale

Less than 5k miles.
Neat inside and out
First body painting
Registered with plate number
Chilling AC

Pictures

WantsandMore:
Samsung s23 ultra with tiny ink on the screen 630k
Pickup Location: Ibadan
Samsung Note 20 Ultra screen flickers alot
Requires screen replacement
200k
Pickup Location: Minna
S22 ultra ink on screen
At&t
150k
Pickup: Ibadan

I think you're better off getting another inverter brand 80A with 600w max pv array is useless
Check for other brands. It will cost you more but it's gonna be worth it

Olamlag:
thanks will do but what about the issue of the max pv array of 600 watt will using 1100 watt panel not affect the inverter. i know about oversizing but hope this is not way too much

Isn't that 100ah Cworth battery supposedly sold for 177k according to the price chart someone posted here?

Also. Is the tasha energies inverter an hybrid inverter?

Olamlag:
Good day everyone, I a trying to do a small solar set up, of 1kva 12v inverter with 100ah lithium battery with 2pcs of 400w trina solar panel.
So far here is what my research has givinge
Cworth 100ah 12v battery 300k
Panel 70k each
Inverter tasha energies 1kva 180k
I will like to know of this product are good or if there are better ones or better pricing I could go for? Thanks

I can see from this thread that cworth should be cheaper than that where get it cheaper? I should mention that I am not located in lagos I am in Osun State

Thanks

I rebuke you

DrDoc:
have a 300 watts solar power station, with standing fan, two solar panels. I am willing to sell if you have interest. It powers laptop, fan, portable devices, small led tv

I'm sure there's a reason manufacturer recommend a single 150-200w panel

munchies:
Is it suitable to connect 2 units of 200w solar panels to this solar generator? Will it be too much or should 1 unit be connected only to charge the battery?

I heard there are some Hybrid inverters that are able to work without battery and just solar panels connected.

I'll like some brands suggestions and if i could get for a 12 or 24v 2kva size

Where can i find his videos?

I checked the name on YouTube and Tiktok. Nothing came out.

Edit: Nevermind i found it on nairaland

omotoda:
Dam5reey did a review on both cworth and Powmr. Go watch it but summary is it comes down to the quality of cell used

I have some questions regarding the 12v lithium batteries on this list. The 1.3kwh here is less than 200k while most other vendors 100ah 12v lithium battery and even the Powmr 100ah lithium battery sells for around 280-300k

Aren't they all lithium batteries?

ManAdii:
0906 655 5211
His name is Armstrong. Tell him you were referred from their sales rep from China.

See their latest quotes.

If you're buying upto 5 pieces the price reduces slightly.

Thanks for the response

HeavenlyBang:
1. The 220aH tubular has likely been mislabeled and isn't actually 220aH.
2. Even if it's actually 220aH, when you factor in DoD, usable energy is about the same as a 100aH lifepo4 battery
3. Lifepo4 handles 0.5c charge and discharge effortlessly, tubular is more around 0.2c
4. Lifepo4 will bounce back much better after being heavily discharged. Tubular won't.

There's no reason to buy a tubular battery in 2025. Even a cheap, Grade B lifepo4 battery is better than tubular.