₦airaland Forum

bkuranga:
It's been very effective when working for me too.
I was using Qasa before this, and this one is far better.

Just this weird error.
I will try another type of cookware.

In fact, I will also buy more of this cooker in case my clients need one.
Thank you.

The magnetic metal underneath the induction pot is preventing the pot’s base to heat up on time hence the error 4 showing on the cooker. But the Error will disappear as soon as you increase the heat / wattage. So, to avoid this error, just use regular pots on the infrared cooker. The error is indicating an unusual slow heating.

bkuranga:
Thank you, I bought this.
I'm getting error 4 or so sometimes.
Do you know how to avoid this?


I normally just increase the wattage, and it resolve that when it's very hot.
But what's causing this error gangan?

I have never experienced such ever since I have been using the Fred infrared cooker for over 8 months now. It has been serving my family of five well and the cooking is great just like charcoal stove cooking but much more faster and energy efficient. However, the error could be as a result of the magnetic pot you are using on it. The infrared cooker does not require a magnetic pot to work unlike induction cooker. You should confirm this by using any regular pot on it and observe if it shows the error. You can even start by touching the Power On, then Touch BBQ - 1200W for instance, and then reduce or increase the wattage. I have just bought extra two for my clients .

Tdoctor:
I salute.
Please what material should I use to prevent water leakage between panels in a solar panel car port?
Bassdows, twinskenny, anyone

Try this roof leak seal tape, it’s available in those building materials shops. You can apply it underneath the panel joints or trim it to smaller width and apply on top at the joints.

bkuranga:
Abeg, which infared cooker are you using?
Can you help with a photo and maybe a link?

Fred Infrared Cooker, it costs between 40-50k depending on where you’re buying from and comes with a steel for grilling or barbecue.

AyobamiOluwole:
Like play like play, an infrared cooker is now called a hot plate.

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Omo ^ 1000000000

Very funny 😄

Induction cookers use electromagnetic fields to heat cookware directly rather than heating a surface, making them faster and more energy-efficient. A copper coil beneath the glass surface passes alternating current, creating a magnetic field that induces eddy currents inside iron/steel pans, causing them to heat up instantly

While
Infrared cooker uses electromagnetic waves (similar to sunlight) generated by a hot element to transfer heat directly to food, rather than heating the air around it. This method provides intense, direct heat for fast, even searing and locks in moisture because there is less convection (hot air circulation) to dry the food.

Note the difference: Electromagnetic Fields and Electromagnetic Waves(Similar to Sunlight)

zenith4biz:
What makes it infrared is those red coils not the touch button and regulators.

Ok, I am not familiar with this type of your ‘infrared’ cooker, does it have a power regulator and other touch buttons. My inverter indicates a lesser a stable wattage than the one set on the cooker. If I set it at 800w, it will be showing below 700w on the inverter and it will not be fluctuating. At 1000w, it will be consuming below 900w on the inverter.

osayuwamwen:
is this not infrared ? for clarity purposes on the induction cooker,1000watt on the induction cooker is actually 1000watt my refrigerator and fan was on that was what make it 1.3kw, but once the induction cooker is set below 1000watt the actual power draw will be fluctuating btw below the power set and above the power set on the induction cooker like example when u set at 800watt the actual power will fluctuate BTW 716watt to 1.1kw

Ok, I am not familiar with this type of your ‘infrared’ cooker, does it have a power regulator and other touch buttons.

osayuwamwen:
is this not infrared ? for clarity purposes on the induction cooker,1000watt on the induction cooker is actually 1000watt my refrigerator and fan was on that was what make it 1.3kw, but once the induction cooker is set below 1000watt the actual power draw will be fluctuating btw below the power set and above the power set on the induction cooker like example when u set at 800watt the actual power will fluctuate BTW 716watt to 1.1kw

osayuwamwen:
infared is not better sir I have infared also this induction can boil a small cup of water In seconds same water that will take infrared to boil in minutes,

I want to set the power to 1000watt which is not still up to what my infrared cooker draws to see if it will b faster than infrared cooker at 1000watt it draws 1.3kw on my inverter gv update later

What you have is not an infrared cooker but the regular hot plate. You can post the picture for clarification.

osayuwamwen:
one thing I don't understand about this maxi induction cooker is that the power draw fluctuate it is not constant, I set the power to 800watt it was showing 619watt and 1.1kw it was just fluctuating BTW the two on my inverter

I told you people that infrared cooker is much better because it was innovated as an improvement over the induction cooker but you wouldn’t listen. My infrared cooker is better in terms of fastness, power consumption and doesn’t select pots. Not to talk of the health effects of applying electro magnetic energy directly on the food being cooked. Anyways, it’s a matter of choice and preference.

osayuwamwen:
one thing I don't understand about this maxi induction cooker is that the power draw fluctuate it is not constant, I set the power to 800watt it was showing 619watt and 1.1kw it was just fluctuating BTW the two on my inverter

I told you people that infrared cooler is better because it was innovated after the induction cooker but you wouldn’t listen. My infrared is better in terms of fastness and power consumption.

Gshems:
My bosses in the house. My inverter threw a fault code 03, which is over voltage according to the manual. I have reduced the bulk and float to 14.4v and 13.8v respectively but it has done the same today. What can be the cause? My charge current is 60A. Inverter is bread 1.5kva and haisic 4kw.

The fault is not from Bulk or Floating Voltage Setting, it’s from the AC input. You will need to install a voltage/current regulator to protect your inverter from high voltage. See it below 👇

moneymind:
You have been unreasonable for almost 1 hour. I have been expecting the battery i paid for, you said you'll send this morning. Kindly reach me, you can't be ignoring the calls of someone you received money from.

Unreachable you meant?

ajabani4allah:
I am a little bit confused about this Bulk and floating voltage, is the bulk the same thing as the OVP and float OVPR on the JK BMS parameters?

The Bulk and Floating settings are normally done on the inverter not on the BMS. But there are necessary Settings to be done on the battery BMS also like the JK BMS to prevent overcharging and over discharge so as not to shorten the battery lifespan.

osayuwamwen:
am not seeing resting voltage on my inverter settings which one is resting voltage

Off course there’s no need to set the Battery Resting Voltage. If you set the appropriate Bulk and Floating charge voltages, a healthy 24V lithium battery will have around 27.2V as the resting voltage.

osayuwamwen:
is there a device I can use to read real time accurate battery percentage, estimated charging/discharging time remaining, battery amp left and temperature ?

Those battery information are usually displayed in the BMS Interface whether through the screen display or accessed remotely on mobile device through Bluetooth or WiFi. So, try to find out the type of BMS attached to your lithium battery and download the appropriate mobile app to access the battery information on your phone.

osayuwamwen:
pls at all what is the safe constant voltage and floating voltage for bms to fully balance cells and also for lower battery degradation for a 24v system

I normally recommend: Bulk/Constant Voltage Charge : 28.4v
Floating Voltage: 27.8v or 27.7v
So that the battery Resting Voltage will be around: 27.2V

BangaRice:
I recieved PV that has detached frames from body.
What is the best adhesive to put them back?

Post the pics, let’s see how it is so that we can recommend how to fix it.

Ezimuoh:
I wonder why that giy is always fixated on tubular batteries. He always talks as if its only lithium batteries that have fakes and tubular doesn’t have

It’s as if he’s a relative of the largest importer of Tubular Batteries in the country. He deserves to be made their ambassador in Nigeria.

IRAPADA:
good evening one,I came home this evening and my children told me around 1pm or 2pm my inverter was piping and when dey off it,it started smoking though still working and when I open it to see what is wrong inside I found out some capacitor are burnt . though the instill working.what is the function of those capacitor and how can I fix the problem. 3.5kva yohako inverter

The swollen or bulging capacitors are likely caused by excessive heat, sudden overvoltage, or high current. It’s advisable you replace the affected capacitors with the exact same type matching the voltage and uf because even though still working, those capacitors are already weak and will fail at any time. iYou should then check to ensure that your PV input is within the inverter specifications and also install voltage/current limiter to safeguard the inverter against future power surge.

Greetings my great solar enthusiasts, pls which solar panel brands normally carry this S/N: YHS10083432032820570
The sticker on the panel was forged but I want to confirm the actual brand of the solar panel.
Anyone with idea on this. I was suspecting it’s a JA Solar but not quite sure.

Fremlin:
Just got the 725w jinko bifacial panel today...

It's too big, infact, it's over big.....


Installer fit fall why trying to bring them up to the roof

Can you pls snap the sticker label on the panel for me to confirm something. Thanks

QuoteJust1nce:
Good afternoon, so i plan to proceed with my installation but could you kindly help me vet this list.
It's for 12x 710w, 6k Growatt and 16kwh pylontech fidus.
Thanks alot

This is excessive for a 6kVa and 16KWh setup, I will advise you cut down on the quantity of some of the accessories and buy a higher capacity inverter that will give you more power when needed and you won’t have to spend on upgrading anytime soon.

adibo:
I just checked it now, disturbing everyone sleeping in the house lol. These are my findings;

Before I put on the induction cooker . My load was about 98 - 100w cus it was already midnight, so, everything was off apart from fans and a bulb.

When I set it to 300w, my inverter showed 534w, which we can say the induction cooker is consuming about 400w plus

When I set it at 800w, the inverter showed 999w, which we can say the induction cooker is using around 899w thereabouts

The power consumption is exactly like my infrared cooker but the induction cooker may be faster since the heating occurs inside the pot rather than from outside. The draw back is that the pot must have a magnetic base/bottom for the induction cooker to work and the health implications of cooking with a magnetic pot is another concern for me. I was using the normal hot plate attached to a gas cooker before, it can also be regulated but it was not as fast as the infrared cooker which also comes with added features like timer and BBQ Grill.

micxwell:
What's your battery bank?

A 24v 8Kwh

sofdoc1:
Infrared is not the same as the regular hotplate o, the regular hotplate consumes a lot of power and can't be controlled.
You can select the output power coming from the infrared which makes it much better.
If you kept yours a while longer, you might have seen it's advantages.

It was hot plate the man had not an infrared cooker because the infrared cooking technology which does not require a magnetic pot to work came after the induction cooker. So, it is an improvement over the induction cooker which is gradually being phased out.

ClassicMan202:
Please sir, kindly explain more on how induction cooker in not too good for one's health but you are recommending infrared cooker.

An induction cooker works by using an electromagnetic field to generate heat directly within magnetic cookware, rather than heating a surface element. An alternating current passes through a copper coil, creating a magnetic field that induces eddy currents inside the pot, creating rapid heat via electrical resistance.
When magnetic cookware (iron/stainless steel) is placed on top, the magnetic field induces eddy currents, which are small swirling electrical currents within the metal pan itself. The pan’s resistance to these eddy currents converts the electrical energy into intense, fast heat directly in the pot.
Summarily, the magnetically induced heating is generated inside the steel pot and it’s directed on the food. So, the foods will eventually absorb some of the magnetic radiation during cooking.
Whereas the infrared cooker works like the regular hot plates making use of heating elements but the power can be regulated and it’s quite faster with different setting modes and timer.

osayuwamwen:
This is the one I have abi this nor be induction cooker? I use it with any pot and the big side is pulling 1.7kw while the small side is pulling 1.1kw and wen it get hot it turns off automatically and comes up after some few seconds continually like dat, though it is very fast wen am using it for cooking,

This is a regular hot plate and the power consumption can’t be regulated. Just go for an infrared cooker because the induction is not too good for one’s health due to it’s working mechanism.