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rotecch77:
Life update of the pool
Diff waterproofing tonic for the pool

I will appreciate plumbing and waterproofing ideas for the penthouse decking area where my tank will sit on.

Also, is it a good idea to roof the area over the tank to prevent rainwater from settling at the base?

Aqib09:
Good day everyone.

Please I need some professional advice.

Is beam casting a necessity before installing polystyrene parapet?

Is there any risk in installing the polystyrene parapet without the beam casting?

Thank you in anticipation of your professional input.

I am currently in same stage and situation. I have consulted both users and installers and they are all of the opinion that it be casted with the roof beam for best results from the perspective of firmness and cost. You will find this post useful too

https://www.nairaland.com/4314253/expanded-poly-styrene-alternative-building-material#65757256

ajabani4allah:
The parapet is still up and standing firm. I even checked it when I was doing the electrical work under the roof is still holding up firm. The parapet should be installed before the roofing

Thanks so much for this update. I really appreciate

Tazermatic:
Hello everyone. Hope you all had an awesome weekend. We at Front Line Contractors define a great weekend as what follows after we have successfully delivered our projects/orders to the delight and maximum satisfaction of our clients/customers. So today as promised in the last post we shall discuss the installation procedure for EPS parapet.

Now EPS parapet can be installed at any stage between roof beam level and even a completely roofed house.
If the house will not carry a roof beam(like most bungalows) it can be installed after the final course of block work Our focus today however will be installation during the roof beam stage.
Bear in mind that at this stage the reinforcements for the beam must have been laid and the internal form work also in place..The EPS parapet acts as an external permanent form work for the roof beam.
Materials Needed : binding wire(preferably galvanized steel binding wire), Nails, Leveling Instrument, Saw, glue powder&cement mixture.

1) the first stage of installation will be to find level around the building using leveling instrument and marking using line or plywood for example as shown in the first pic

2) second will be attaching the parapet to the wall by tying the biding wire through the body of the parapet or using nails to secure the binding wire inside the parapet. The holes created will be sealed permanently using the glue powder & cement mixture.
This is done at intervals along the perimeter of the building, say every 0.6m or 1m

3) third will be tying the binding wire to the roof beam reinforcements

4) fourth and finally will be the casting of the roof beam which holds everything securely in place. Finally all the joints and any dents left on the EPS during installation are dressed and permanently sealed with the glue powder & cement mixture. What you have at the end of the day is a strong, durable, straight cut, zero error parapet.

A parapet installed this way will never falter unless the building itself collapses.

You did a good job explaining the installation process. Are you still in business?

ajabani4allah:
I just installed it, about 4months ago now. Aluminum is the cheapest follow by polystyrene. Concrete will almost double the price of polystyrene while the difference in price between Aluminum and polystyrene is not much

Hello boss,

How has your experience been so far? Does it still give value for money? Is it still holding up well? Any regrets so far?

Also, when is the best time to do it? I have just finished my super-structure and now in roof stage. Should it be installed before, during or after roofing?

Also, i am in Lagos. Where in Lagos can one get it?

Please, what is the most reasonable and cost effective way to connect roofing woods securely to the super-structure of a building?

Also, please share recommendations for a capable engineer/builder around Mowe axis.

fashrola:
Oversite concrete inclusive?

sure.

Rockyheight:
Dear Nairalanders,

Please, I need your advice on the following question:

Can ₦25 million be enough to build a twin three-bedroom flat from start to finish in Ibadan (excluding the cost of land)?

I’d appreciate your honest opinions.

Thank you.

25m can only get you to roofing stage. Currently on a similar project (although mine includes a penthouse in the dining section of the first 3br) and it has gulped 20m with just roofing, with roofing remaining to be done. I have been documenting my progress and will create a thread on it when the time is right

diordaves:
I wonder how someone will spend 30m, 40m, 60mil and end up with a final product without DPM. All that money. I just don't get it. You spend all that money with a bag of cement costing over 10k only to run the risk of rising damp.

People please do Germany floor. All building must have a DPM even if the building is located in Sahara desert or on top of Olumo rock.

Just to learn; by DPM, do you mean german floor or the nylon that is used to cover the foundation before doing the german floor?

What if someone already completed the german floor, without using the nylon, can the nylon still be used when laying the superstructure blocks on top of the german floor as seen in these pictures?

Cc: Geekop, Gbadexy, Skydivine, Omayie, Diordaves

laptopsforsale:
Guys, abeg I need help.

The interior part of my land is low, so we had to construct the foundation in such a way that the back has more coaches than the front so that they will all be the same level.

The back has 6 coaches from the ground, with the 6th coach being a plinth beam, while the front has 4 coaches. First attached picture is the front, while the other 3 pictures are the back area

The implication now is that I will need several trips of filling sand to adequately fill and compact the various compartments of the foundation before doing the german floor. My engineer is projecting over 10 trips of 20tons filling sand and I am worried about the cost.

Considering the quantity i will be buying, please advise me on how and where where I can get filling sand at reasonable cost. My location is Mowe axis.

Also, please share your thoughts about the foundation. Thanks

This "bad boy" ended up gobbling 21 damn trips of full 20tons filling sand. We finished the filling and rammering today. Nearly 7m is already gone and I have not even started German floor yet... ...I just dey bleed ...

Now, my engineer just reminded me that we need to get Damp Proof Membrane. Na die I dey. How necessary is this? And where can I buy it at reasonable cost, and what are the things I need to take into consideration when buying it?

dapotemi:
Hmmn am not sure you have any choice than to get that filling sand..You can only use the sand from soakaway to reduce cost.
Try this contact, he did mine at mowe too and his price was more reasonable than the rest then.
Mr Oyebisi---08066333660..
Tell him from the military man at Graceland Estate, Mowe..the same man he supplied his filling sand.. Do your due diligence.
Goodluck

Very helpful, sir. Thanks so much. He was at my site last week to gauge the distance before giving me a price. But I was able to get someone else with a better price. However, I still appreciate. Thanks a lot, my oga

erico2k2:
I dont think you have any other choice in the matter, well if it helps,howmany septic tank are you planning to build? you can do them now and the sand gotten from excavation can be use to form part of the filling sand.,I hope this helps.

Very helpful information, sir. We will be building 2 septic tanks, but we will use the sand proceeds to fill the compound, and it will even be barely enough sef

Guys, abeg I need help.

The interior part of my land is low, so we had to construct the foundation in such a way that the back has more coaches than the front so that they will all be the same level.

The back has 6 coaches from the ground, with the 6th coach being a plinth beam, while the front has 4 coaches. First attached picture is the front, while the other 3 pictures are the back area

The implication now is that I will need several trips of filling sand to adequately fill and compact the various compartments of the foundation before doing the german floor. My engineer is projecting over 10 trips of 20tons filling sand and I am worried about the cost.

Considering the quantity i will be buying, please advise me on how and where where I can get filling sand at reasonable cost. My location is Mowe axis.

Also, please share your thoughts about the foundation. Thanks

twinskenny:
0803 661 5527


We stay in the same area but please do your diligence

Thank you very much, bro. I have spoken with him and he said he will get back to me

10trips of 20 tons filling sand needed around Mowe/Pakuro axis at good price. Let me know if you can supply me

gaeul:
Good Day Everyone, so i was about doing the foundation for my house. House is three 2 bedroom flats down and 3 bedroom flats up. The Engineer is saying
70 16mm rod,
30 12mm rod,
20 10mm rod and

My engineer friend said its way too much and dt he used 35 16mm for same building.

Please advice and suggestions are needed. Thanks

I am in a similar situation right now - although for a bungalow. The architectural plan should include the structural details where the columns and pillars should be. But if it is not very clear, ask your builder/engineer to tell you how many columns the building will have and where exactly they will be.

Then let him tell you how many feet each pillar will be and how many rods will be in a pillar. Currently, iron rods are now about 38/39 feet. So, for example, if he says each foundation column will be 5feet and will contain 4 units of 16mm rod, that means each unit of 16mm rod of 38feet will cater for approximately 2 foundation column.

Alternatively, you can bring an iron-bender to site and buy the iron in stages so that you are sure all the iron purchased in a particular stage are used up before you buy more.

Hopefully, other informed and experienced gurus on the thread will add more insights

Obinnau:
As of this month, I am on a project that is almost similar with yours and here is a close rough estimate
setting out (inclusive of supervision fees) = 200k
digging @ 6000 per partition x home many you have
column base at 4000 x how any you have
blinding of columns give or take 60k
labour for concrete mixers per bag is 2k time how many bags of cement you have estimated for the foundation

laying of blocks @ 150 per block, they pay their servers
filling 200k with abeg
german floor you will need two masons for about 2 days give or take 50k, including the price per bag for the cement concrete mixers.
add cost of carpenters and iron benders too.

From this you can you know whether 1M is a fair price or not,

But I think that the person that gave you this offer is making a gain of about 20% i.e 200k, which I do not find bad. The headache with controlling all the factors of each stage and the labourers toubles too is a lot and that 200k is a fair compensation.

Obinna, my God will bless you for this detailed breakdown. Thanks so much!

He has finally come down to 850,000. Although I wish he comes down to around 800,000, but I am trying to push my luck to see whether he can include the digging and closing of the soak-away for that 850,000, because i want the sand that will be brought out from soakway to be part of the filling sand for the foundation but he has refused. He said the cost of labour alone for digging and transferring the sand into the foundation compartments is 100k, and I am quite surprised.

Anyways, I am considering standing on 800k for just the foundation (setting out to German floor) alone or coming up to 900k for the soakaway to be included. What do you think?

I still have foundation of generator house (which will also double as the tank stand) and 2 shops to be done, and I would have loved to do all at once to leverage on economies of scale. But considering ease of manageability, I think we should focus on the building foundation and soakaway which are the most pressing for now.

Abeg help me share your thoughts. Thanks

Obinnau:
I even think that money is not enough if he is the one buying cement.

Apologies for not being clear in my initial post. The 1m is for just labour. ALL materials will be provided by me.

People of God, my builder is charging me 1,000,000 to do the foundation (Setting out, digging, blinding, laying of blocks, filling and german floor) of my 2 units of 3bedroom flat bungalow spanning a length of 27meters and width of 12meter

Is this a fair price? For some context, bricklayers charge 10k and labourers charge 5k to lay 100units of blocks. How can I negotiate this total cost of 1m with my builder?

Grateful for tips and pointers.

Thanks family

Hello Nairaland, Fam.

I decided to do the registration of my private limited company myself so that i can take some critical learnings on how it all works.

I completed payment of 500naira for the reservation of the name on the 18th of February, filled details of my company (shares allocation, directors, witnesses, signatures, etc), made payment of 10,000naira for registration on the 7th of March and made payment of 4,376naira for stamp duty on 17th of May, but i cant seem to complete the process because there is no further prompt or direction on the page shown in first picture below.

And when i search for the name on the CAC directory, it shows as being inactive and under registration. See second screenshot below.

I have sent a mail to CAC through helpdesk@cac.gov.ng, but i am yet to get a feedback. Grateful for any advise i can get from you guys.

Thanks

laptopsforsale:
Hello house,

Please share your thoughts and opinions about these plans before i pass to my architect for my drawings and progress

First picture is how i envision the architectural plan and house to look like. It will be 2 units of detached 3 bedroom flat separated by a wall, and all rooms having their own toilet. The plan is not drawn to scale, but each block of flat will have a width of 12meters and a length of 13.5meters. The shaded narrow rectangles depict the windows. The triangles with outward-curved sides depicts doors. T and VT means Toilet and Visitors' Toilet, respectively. WR means wardrobe. Same plan will be replicated for the second flat

The second picture is how i envision the house to be located in the compound, using the survey plan. The entire building (of 2 units of 3bedroom flats) will have a length of 27meters and a width of 12meters.There will be a setback of 1.5m from the fence on the right side of the building, a setback of 1.5m from the closes part of the fence at the back, a space of 6.5meters in front where cars will park (although we plan to build 2 shops that will likely a width of 3meters and a length of 8meters), and a space of about 3.3meters on the left side of the building.

Please, what do you guys think. Kindly advise me. I dont want to make a mistake

Hello guys,

Grateful for your feedback. Thanks

Hello house,

Please share your thoughts and opinions about these plans before i pass to my architect for my drawings and progress

First picture is how i envision the architectural plan and house to look like. It will be 2 units of detached 3 bedroom flat separated by a wall, and all rooms having their own toilet. The plan is not drawn to scale, but each block of flat will have a width of 12meters and a length of 13.5meters. The shaded narrow rectangles depict the windows. The triangles with outward-curved sides depicts doors. T and VT means Toilet and Visitors' Toilet, respectively. WR means wardrobe. Same plan will be replicated for the second flat

The second picture is how i envision the house to be located in the compound, using the survey plan. The entire building (of 2 units of 3bedroom flats) will have a length of 27meters and a width of 12meters.There will be a setback of 1.5m from the fence on the right side of the building, a setback of 1.5m from the closes part of the fence at the back, a space of 6.5meters in front where cars will park (although we plan to build 2 shops that will likely a width of 3meters and a length of 8meters), and a space of about 3.3meters on the left side of the building.

Please, what do you guys think. Kindly advise me. I dont want to make a mistake

bixton:
Nobody knows what safety measures you'll take to build a shed that will stand as cover for the electrical equipments you're installing for your change over switch and others.

Also spilled water over electricity is not good and if such is being built on a steel, you know what that means. We can't be too sure of whatever form of insulation you do.
Thanks.

Thanks for this suggestion, sir. I will seek more professional advise when i get to that stage soon.

michlins:
I have not done it but I know it's something people do. However, you need to watch out for electrocution because water and electricity doesn't really go well together

Thanks for your contribution, bro. Below pictures give an idea of what I am trying to achieve. The four-legs of the tank stand will form the pillars of the gen house underneath, and the metal stand will extend above the roof of the gen house, giving then tank more elevation and proving more water pressure into the house.

bixton:
I don't think it's a good idea if the tank stand is going to be of metal/steel usage for it's construction.

Thanks for the response, sir. But can you expatiate more on why you think it isn't a good idea? I would imagine that it will even make the tank stand more solid.

Helpout12345:
I am not a building engineer or architect but I will swap the positions of the gate and the shops, then swap the positions of the garden and soakaway. By doing this, you will have more packing spaces as you can pack regular cars on soakaways.

Just make sure you employ services of professional architect and engineers to design the house.

Also, remove the existing foundation completely as you don't know what is built there or intended for.

Excellent suggestions, bro. I will speak with my architect and engineer, then factor it into our plans

Badgers14:
Wehdone ooo..

Well, I am neither an engineer nor an architect..

But one thing I would say is, to make sure your dreams/vision on the project, like you have explained here is captured in reality.

Do not let any old structure there stop you.. like you did mention the plot have a previous foundation, uproot/abandon the old foundation and make sure your vision is captured in reality.

Keep in mind, foundation is the most important aspect of a building project..

The existing foundation, you might not know how diligent the engineers and artisans were in delivering it and what type of building they had in mind..it could be different from the type of structure you want making the foundation not usable to you.

(For me, I wouldn't even recommend building on a existing foundation if I just purchased a plot, because I want to be sure, building is not cheap.. and I can't invest all the money on a foundation that is "unknown " . I don't want to always sleep with one eye open after the hustle , the expenses and the stress to build).

But most importantly, you want to build a house that captures your vision... a home.

A place you would walk inside and go.. yep, that's right.. this is home. From the compound to the interior settings of the house.

I have seen with my two naked eyes people that built their houses and abandoned it.. had to sell it because they were mesmerized by the 3D the architect sent them and not focusing more on the interiors.. the room placement.. hallways.. etc making sure the house would work for them.. that the house captured their vision.

I have always been an advocate of designing building from the inside... I am not overly wowed by the exterior of the building and their 3D.

The reason , you might wonder? Because I will live inside the house and not the outside.. I want to make sure the settings, rooms, hallway.. intended use of the interiors, matches my vision of the place.

Cheers!!

Thank you very much for your detailed and inspiring post.

Yes, I have decided to take off the old existing foundation completely. The foundation of my desired building will be deeper and will cut across the existing foundation.

I also agree to your points about prioritising the internal part of the house and making it habitable, instead of being too focused on the externals of the house. It is a very good point

One way i am ensuring this is by leveraging a model I am sure works: I currently live (on rental) in a well-built, intentional, spacious and ventilated house and compound, so I think I will just work with an architect to replicate the plan of the house, with some modifications to suit my taste.

michlins:
Strong foundation means strong structure

07032446904 call and let us discuss

Is it a good idea to build a generator house directly under the tank stand? I am worried that about having an empty unutilized space under the tank stand when I am quite pressed for space in the compound, and I am a big fan of having the generator house with some electrical connections separate from the main house. Having the tank stand and generator house cleverly joined together could help me kill 2 birds with one stone

Hello guys, please advise me.

Below picture is the survey plan of a land I have had for a while now, but want to start something on it now. I will be meeting with an architect and engineer next week, but I am now thinking of what I want to achieve so I have come up with this very rough sketch on the plan.

The land currently has a foundation on it which is the red coloured box in the picture. I bought the place with the foundation on it and I don't even have the plan of the foundation, so i will re-work it. My plan is to build a 1 storey building comprising of 2 units of 2 bedroom flats downstairs and 2 units of 2 bedroom flats upstairs. The blue coloured box is the area I envision the building to occupy.

The black coloured box is where the gate into the compound will be and the grey coloured box will be the parking space for about 3 cars. The green coloured box will contain at least 2 shops and the pink coloured box will be a garden where madam will plant crops with the kids - that has always been my dream. Finally, the yellow coloured box is where the soakaway will be.

Please, what do you guys think of this plan? Notice that the planned house and soakaway will cross into the area where the old foundation currently is. Will it be easy or even a good idea to re-construct the foundation to my plan and also turn the remaining part of it into soakaway?

Also, is it a good idea to have the entrance into the compound on the part where the house is, just as I depicted in my plan?

Again, I love the idea of having a sliding gate instead of the traditional 2-door gate. But the sliding gate will likely traverse or get too close to the area the shops could be. Any thoughts on how I can work around this?

Grateful for your responses

monikulapo:
I’m not sure I gave you award yesterday. You can have this lollipop 🍭. Thanks for your participation.
A tun ma rin yin next time.

You think this is a joke, right? You think you can waltz in here and attempt to scam someone here, and still mock us by disturbing the peace of this thread?
Keep sharing awards. Your details will soon be added to the Nairaland list of scammers if you don't resolve your pending issue with that guy