₦airaland Forum

Tools required: concentrated sulphuric acid, 2 20ml syringes, cooking gas and an expert at the job.
Normal flushing wont solve the problem. All the hoses must be disconnected for chemical washing with semi dilute sulphuric acid which you will pour into the hoses with the syringe while the dilute acid is still hot. keep pouring the acid till you see the effluent is now clear. Do this for all the hoses especially the aluminum hose sending freon to the expansion valve. this will take 30 minutes to one hour to complete. Once clean, use another syringe to pass water to rinse the acid off the pipes till its completly free of acid then hang to dry, use an air pump to dry the pipes too to be faster.
now the evaporator needs to be thoroughly flushed with cooking gas the normal way till its clean. you dont need to remove it from the car and do not put acid into your evaporator, it will be damaged and very difficult to remove. after the evaporator is flushed let it dry(very important). you can turn on the blower fan for a minute and it will cause any residual cooking gas to boil off.
new condenser, new compressor(i prefer "obama" 3 leg to VDC OEM type), oh remember to clean out the expansion valve. now add 120 mls of ND8 oil to the system, 60mls to compressor, 60mls to condenser. change all seals, test the rubber hoses under pressure under water with the air pump and replace if found to be leaking. i prefer new hoses not belgium and do test them for leaks before installation.
reassemble the ac and thats that. charge with lobocool or jensens or snowpure to specified volume. 850g for your car i think but a guage on the high side while charging will be helpful. charge to 225psi if the weather is hot. ensure nothing is blocking the airflow to the condenser.
truth is that you need to see a professional to fix this. youll spend about 130k total but thats the solution.
a setup will be done with the sensor from the old VDC compressor otherwise the ECU will not send power. if youve lost the sensor, look for any load of about 60 ohm resistance as a replacement(sensor is better).
in summary, just get a professional, who is educated and understands the principles of thermodynamics and can use a guage. most guys doing this stuff dont even know the basics of the job. Goodluck

youve got a leak. pull out the compressor, remove the clutch and look in the center where the shaft is. if you notice its all wet and oily theres your leak. the oil seal can be replaced by a technician

Azanor:
Hey Guys, I need your help.

I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and for a while now the AC has been acting up. First of all, it stopped cooling. I got the gas refilled but after a few weeks, the same thing happened. When they checked the gas, the pressure was still okay, but either ways the mechanic checked for leakages (couldn't find any) and refilled the gas again. Now after about 3 weeks I'm noticing the coolness reduce any time I use the AC.

Went back to the mechanic and he checked the gas pressure (which was still okay). The mechanic is telling me to replace the compressor. What do the gurus in the house think/suggest.

hello GAZZUZZ, i changed the condenser on a 2008 rav 4 with a VDC after i discovered it was blocked after discovering black oil in the system. it was cooling fine and i discovered it by accident. after changing and thorough flushing of the system i recharged with 340 grams of freon. te ac worked perfectly for a while and went into a low pumping mode with somewhat high low side pressures and low high side pessure. i suspect the solenoid id the issue. currently the ac is moody. it works when it feels like working. how can i get a replacement solenoid since i cant convert this externally controlled clutchles compressor to a permanent one as easily as i could have done for an internally cntrolled one. i work in makurdi benue state. i also need a vacuum pump as i have been bleeding air from the system before recharging and this wastes a lot of freon

GAZZUZZ:
I have not updated this thread for 2days because I have been nursing a small burden.

The burden was P0011: P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

This code came up about 30mins into test drive.

Symptoms I was getting

Random multiple misfire (intermittently)

A/C shutting off

High idle speed

Incorrect gear shifts.

And the usual check engine light.



Possible causes of this code include the following.

Incorrect camshaft timing Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)


I also read the toyota TSB for the code which I will try to attach here.

So first thing I did was assume it was a glitch, clear code and go for another test drive.

Code came back roughly 30mins into drive again, and it shut down the compressor with it.

[s]You know the feeling you get after collecting plenty money from an Igbo woman and being unable to deliver [/s]

Ok time to trouble shoot.

Starting from easy to hard.

Swapped out the crank position sensor, sadly toyota placed it behind the a/c compressor so I had to discharge refrigerant and take down the radiator and condenser to access the crank shaft properly.

Also replaced the harness because it was looking bad.

Went for a test drive, midway code came back.

Next went to bank1 and swapped out the cam sensor and 2 OCV solenoids, and inspected the OCV filter. OCV filter was clean as a whistle (as expected)

Went for a test drive and same thing

Frustrated I abandoned the car and channeled my frustration into other routine jobs that required less reasoning.

This evening 7pm I assembled the bois and told them to take off the intake manifold one more time (it had become a ritual now)

Studied the harness connecting the two OCV solenoids on Bank 1, and I noticed they had been interchanged!!

Well no weekend tips for the bois Re-assembled vehicle, went for a test drive, drive was smooth and code never came back after about 50miles of driving.

Replaced the abs sensor and wheel bearings in front.

Sorry no pics for now, was not in a happy mood to take pics

We are moving to aesthetics now so there will be lots of pictures.

For now powertrain, suspension air conditioning are good to go.