₦airaland Forum

emmanuelewumi:
Presco right offer ended on the 2nd of December 2025 without an extension but the shares were credited into the shareholders CSCS accounts on the 30th of December 2025


Ellah Lakes offers ended on the 19th of December 2025 after a 2 week extension. Hopefully the shares should be credited into shareholders CSCS accounts on the 19th of January 2026.

The Presco rights I bought has to been credited to my account. I use Bamboo for stocks. Should I be worried?

I stated my goal already

Raider76:
You need to define your objective first . Why are you doing what you are doing?

The below is currently my portfolio on bamboo. I started investing last year just buying random stocks and all...

Experts in the house, I need insights; I want to optimize and trim down the portfolio to like 15. I know I am not really getting things right as I just buy stocks randomly. Gurus, which ones should I let go and which one not here should I add?

My goal is dividends and growth for long term.

1. Zenith Bank
2. GTCO (Guaranty Trust Holding Company)
3. Access Holdings
4. United Bank for Africa (UBA)
5. Fidelity Bank
6. Sterling Bank
7. Jaiz Bank
8. United Capital (UCAP)
9. AIICO Insurance
10. Unilever Nigeria
11. Cadbury Nigeria
12. Presco
13. Okomu Oil
14. Champion Breweries
15. Ellah Lakes
16. Oando
17. Aradel Holdings
18. Lafarge Africa (WAPCO)
19. UPDC REIT
20. Nigeria Infrastructure Debt Fund (NIDF)
21. Japaul Gold
22. Chams

Kaymaxi2222:
don't use new engine mount they are all fake unless you want to get from the honda place

Please how do I get the ones that will work?
I've been on this for a while now.

Who has an experience on using new engine mounts for their K24 engines?

Does it work well?

Please who is familiar with this code?
P2552 for 2004 Acura TSX. Same setup as EOD.

I can't seem to find anything online.

Pictures attached...

Please who is familiar with this code?
P2552 for 2004 Acura TSX. Same setup as EOD.

I can't seem to find anything online.

Pictures attached...

kingreign:
That is how a studebaker of 1945 does na. It's absolutely normal.

I think you did not get the complains correctly.
The car does not have that high initial rev at cold start up any more. There is something wrong somewhere since it is not how the car was operating formally.

Any contact for a part seller in PH?

Leonyluiz:
Thanks for your response.

The P0420 is showing because there is no catalyst.
It has the k24 engine.

The fuel economy on the dash suddenly drops from 19mpg average to 6.5mpg and black smoke starts.

Black smoke means that your car is pouring too much fuel into your engine and the intake air is not commensurate.

I'm not sure this has to do with "no catalyst" as catalyst is primarily for emission control (I stand to be corrected).

If I were you, I will start from checking my fuel pressure and then proceed to check if the injectors are leaking.

You can also check MAF sensor (if your car has one).

Also, do a live data stream with your OBDII scanner. Check your O2 sensor readings and your fuel trims. That should be a guide also.

zed7:
Fuel pump was changed. All had been well since then. Probably low pressure from the pump which couldn't supply enough fuel to move the car.

That was what I mentioned earlier in my previous quote. Failing fuel pump.

Bizzyliss:
First one started I changed sensors and it still showed same code, I changed ecm and it showed lean codes. Pls anyone in Lagos that can fix this for me 2011 highlander 2gr

First question I'll ask is if your vehicle is moving very well.

You may want to check your fuel pressure and also check if you have vacuum or exhaust leaks

remi4ever:
Hello Everyone. I have been struggling with this issue for a while now.

When driving on rough terrains in the night with my Headlight on full beam, my RPM drops really low when my leg is on the brake or I am trying to turn. Sometimes you even think the car has turned off, but it moves when you step on the gas.

I have checked with a multimeter, my alternator puts out enough voltage, so I am not sure that is the issue. If I turn off my headlights, the issue becomes bearable.

Car is a HONDA ACCORD 2009 with the R20 engine.

No CEL/MIL code. I've noticed that this rarely happens in the morning, or it is less noticeable; it happens when the engine has reached operating temperature. I don't know what else to do...

The thermostat is intact, and the fan is not bypassed.

Things I have tried on my own.

1. Cleaned throttle body.

2. Changed Spark plug.

3. I also tested with another battery.

4. Changed spark plug.

If as you said it happens only when you are using much electrical load. Then you can do a little test to see if the alternator is working well under load.

There is this bluetooth transmitter that you plug into the cigarette that displays car battery voltage. Buy it and plug it in and monitor the voltage under the conditions you normally observe the abnormally.

You can get hint from there.

Renwess:
I did an upgrade of my GX470 to Prado 2022 and the battery compartment became smaller than it used to be. So, the 90amps Solite Korean made battery no longer fit into the compartment.

I changed to a smaller but a korean tech Version.

I noticed my car is no longer going beyond 2nd gear. Technically it stuck on gear 2 and use to make a louder noise if I decided to move faster.

Just yesterday, a full tank fuel of 64,000 naira performed magic as i got a empty tank on getting to Ibadan.

I had to return back to lagos immediately i noticed the car is taking too much fuel and the highest gear i could drive with is the 2nd gear.

Please is there anyone in the house that is familiar with this issue in GX470 or the after upgraded to prado.

What is the cause of this issue? Is it the battery change?

Please take, shifting to D, R and more is aways done smoothly.

Please help.

I don't have to use to do expensive gear fix or jumping from one mechanic to the other.

I think you should start first by scanning your car.
It's possible the car has erased Its memory or probably have gone into LIMP mode when you removed the battery.

First start by scanning the car and see if there's any code.

kingreign:
DM pictures of the engine bay I'd take it up tomorrow or Monday if it's okay by you.

07034581213

I sent you a DM

accelion:
Where are you located, please?

I dey Rivers State

kingreign:
Your location, year and model of honda matters.

2004 Acura TSX. I don't mind the location as I can do a waybill from a reliable seller.

accelion:
Thanks for the response. Sometimes, pinpointing the exact issues with cars is just hard, no matter what, especially when they don't throw any DTC. I have run a live data stream before, but I will investigate the EGR, as you suggested, to see how it progresses. If only I could find a professional who understands these things and can walk with me. Are you one?

I may not be one. I'm just a DIY enthusiast. I always love getting things fixed myself.

accelion:
Hello all,

I’m seeking a reliable automotive electrical engineer in Lagos to diagnose and fix the ongoing fuel consumption and power loss issues in my car.

I’ve tried many mechanics and electricians, but most don’t understand the problem. No disrespect, but my experience has been frustrating — many rely on guesswork, delegate work to apprentices, or rush jobs without proper diagnostics. This issue requires coordinated live data readings and interpretation, rather than trial and error.

---

Vehicle Details:

- Car: 2013 Honda Accord
- Engine: 2.4L 4-cylinder i-VTEC (K24)
- Location: Ikeja, Lagos

The Problem:

- Extremely poor fuel economy: Between 7–11 MPG (3–4.5 km/l), even after repairs.
- Loss of performance: The car drives okay for the first few minutes, then the power drops, and the throttle feels hard to press
- No current CEL (Check Engine Light): I’ve resolved the previous P0420 by replacing the cat with an OEM Tokunbo
- All basic sensors and components have been replaced

---

Replaced Components So Far:

- MAF Sensor
- Upstream & Downstream O2 Sensors
- Catalytic Converter (OEM Tokunbo)
- Fuel Pump & Fuel Rail
- High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
- Purge Valve
- Cleaned throttle body
- Checked for vacuum leaks
- Reset adaptations

Despite all this, the issue persists. I’m convinced it’s one or two remaining faults, likely electrical or ECU-related, but I need someone who truly understands data stream diagnostics, electrical signals, and real-time performance analysis — not someone who just reads OBD codes. Could the exhaust system (muffler) be blocked, causing the car to choke? Could it be the ECU malfunctioning? Whatever it is, I'd rather use a verified diagnosis to figure it out. I scanned, and there are no DTCs.

I’m exhausted and almost considering selling the car because of this.

---

What I Need:

- A real electrical engineer, not a guess-based mechanic
- Someone with access to advanced diagnostics (OBD, live stream, volt/amp checks)
- Preferably with Honda experience
- Lagos-based.

Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. I'd also answer any questions you have for me regarding the car. Thanks!

Do you have a scanner that reads live data?
Have you checked you fuel pump pressure?

I have a feeling that the Tokunbo CAT you installed can even be the culprit. Make the exhaust is blocked.

Another stupid thing can be a faulty EGR if your car has one. If it's stuck in an open position it can cause your engine to loose power along with your other symptoms.

Also check your Air Bypass Assist Valve if they are closing correctly.

Most importantly, I hope your spark plugs alongside your injectors are okay.

Like I said initially. A live data stream with OBD will give you as much information you desire.

How can I get engine and transmission mounts?

Trace0008:
Goodevening Everyone, my Mercedes Benz glk350 2009 model suddenly developed an issue which resulted into multiple issues. I was driving and suddenly I heard some notice below the car and next thing it showed abs and esp not available. Consult car manual. If I drive it a little distance, it will make same noise if I try to move at a higher speed and the warning sign will start blinking. I scanned it and it showed this codes 5543c(there is an internal fault in component ‘A7/3(Traction system)’ and U140B (implausible left Rear Wheel speed signal received).

The next day while taking it to a technician, the car started jerking seriously and I scanned it again and it showed (misfire in cylinder 1, 2, and 3 and also The charge movement flap in cylinder bank 1 has a malfunction) I have changed coils, changed nozzle, bought a new intake manifold yet the car is still misfiring and still showing the same codes even after clearing and resetting. When I clear and reset, it stops but when I drive for 5 minutes on the road, the codes come back and serious misfire happens. For the wheel sensor , I bought another wheeel sensor and it has stopped the code and ABs has stopped showing but the same traction problem persists. Now it’s showing on my dashboard, check brake wear. I’m confused and I don’t know what to do. This car for 3 days has really been a torn on my flesh. A lot of money spent and yet it’s getting worse.

I base in Owerri

I didn't hear you day anything about replacing the spark plugs.

Wannabenz:
Here's what I'm using and it hardly disappoint.

Bring 15k for the 4.

This is not my car's spec

minista94:
Good afternoon all

My 2012 corolla i got few days ago is just doing hard starting,

On Saturday when I went to pick up the car, it wasn't doing same, upon we off it severally, even at the filling station too when we branched to fuel it, it started at one attempt.

The issue started when I got home, I packed at the gate to open the gate, I switched off the car when i wanted to open the gate though, as I opened and entered my car to drive in, I tried starting it, it could not start again o, I tried and tried and it's still same, I waited for about 10 minutes and tried again and it started. I drove in and switched it off, tried starting again and it couldn't start.

The follow day, still same, yesterday being Monday, still the same thing.

People were say is because i removed the battery of the car, that's why it's behaving that way.. YES i got a new battery and removed the old one before coming back home that first day.

Please is there anything i can do to resolve this? I'm even scared to switch it off while on the road because it might misbehave again and all these Lagos agbero fit rush me..

Kindly advise

Do you have a car scanner?
You can scan to see if they'll be codes. Anything from bad kick starter to spark plugs to faulty fuel pump can cause the issue.

zed7:
Started the car this morning and all is well. It's acting like nothing ever went wrong. It may be difficult for a mechanic to diagnose, now that it isn't acting funny.

This seems to be a behavior of a failing fuel pump

zed7:
2014 crv was driven and parked. After an hour, it was started, but started jerking and wouldn't move forward, only moves to reverse.
It jerks continuously then stops. Prior to this, the only thing I noticed was slight hesitation when going from gear 1 to 2.

Thankfully, the issue happed at home. I can't seem to find anyone with the same issues online.

Anyone with similar experience or knows what the issue is? I would have suspected transmission issues but the car is vibrating on start, even without engaging gears.

Is it jerking while idling or while you're trying to accelerate?

Who knows where I can get original spark plugs?
I see so many counterfeits flying around in the market.

Where can I buy original NGK spark plugs?

NGK IZFR6K11

I think 2.5m is on the high side considering the fact that you will be fixing it. More faults may spring up as you attempt to fix the other.

highoctane:
What is the primary cause of battery drain after few days parking in Lexus Rx 300, if this happen it is usually started by using car jump starting kit.

2: My Lexus back window glass doesn't wind down, I took it to an auto electrician, who told me it has been fixed and tested it, and it functioned, after few days, all the car doors window except the driver's window started to winds down by itself once in a while . It seems the auto electrician have given up.
What shall I do?

Did you install a new radio head unit?

yungdoc12:
Hybrid battery replacement costs vary widely depending on the vehicle make, model, battery type, and whether you buy new, refurbished, or aftermarket.

Sir, that us why I said "estimated" of "the"... .
The vehicle of discussion in this thread is Toyota Prius.

what is the estimate of the hybrid replacement cost?