₦airaland Forum

people please i want to know if there is any danger in removing a car battery. I noticed that whenever i remove the battery of my car probably to help someone else start their engine, mine refuses to start immidiately. i have to connect it for a while then later start up the engine. im shocked at this , but i will like to hear from my ever ready NL ato gurus

gulfer: drive inside your compound!

lol...i no fit laff

Does any one know where one can plastidip his car in Nigeria or better still where to get plastidip paint materials, suggestions and comments in Nigeria

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Ikenna351: It depends on how long it stays there. Electric Radiator cooling fan switches on when temp rises a little above the middle of temp guage or 90 C (thats when thermostat opens to pass very hot coolant from engine to radiator, to allow in warm coolant from the radiator with the work of water pump). Withing seconds of the fan(s) coming on & running, the needle on the temp guage will come back to the middle or 90 C & the fan will go off again (meaning the thermostat has closed), till another 5 - 10 mins & switches on again, if the car remain stationary, especially when in hold up. But as soon as the car starts moving or gaining a little speed, the fans will go off & will remain off till you meet another stop & go traffic or reach your final destination. This is only applicable to fans that are still factory connected & the thermostats are not removed from the engine.

So from your explanation, you can see that connecting the fans to run constantly does not prevent the car from overheating if the thermostat has been removed, like i have explained in my previous post. So if the temp guage needle remains constantly above middle of the guage in a traffic jam, then either your thermostat has been removed or the thermostat is stuck closed. Observe & let us know.

Ikenna.

Hi Ikenna,

Thanks a bunch, what i have observed is that once the engine is up and running, the temp. increases till it gets to the middle. when it hits middle it remains there all the way till i put off the engine,even if i start the engine immediately after i had switched it off, the temp will just jump back to the middle again. what can i do?

Then about the smoke from the exhaust, when i start the engine in the morning it just smokes heavily afterwards the smoke stops and the exhaust do o emit any smoke, the engine sounds fine but what i can do to stop the early morning smoke?

;DI ONE, I TWO..when you are playing with older people and you know say set no sure for you,u no get choice that to be keeper...at least u go feature for evening

thanks a lot ikenna.

my temp sits a bit above the middle, is this normal?

Ikenna351: Usually, Radiator electric fans are trigered on or controlled by radiator sensor or ECU via CTS/temp sender. Peugeot use radiator sensor to switch on their electric radiator fans, while most Japmobiles use ECU to do the same. I guess yours is ECU controlled. They had bypassed the ECU connection to the fan wiring connector, for it to be constantly running. You can trace back the original/factory connection of the fans with wiring diagram, test light or if you were there when it was bypassed(by knowing the wire(s) they cut off).

When Radiator electric fan spins constantly, the engine would always run cold or it would take the engine temperature eternity to rise a little, thereby more wear and tear. If the thermostat is removed, the engine would always run cold & would always run on extreme dangerous high temperature, when the engine eventualy warms, which could blow up the head gasket.

Usually, engine will be cold every morning. For a cold engine to start, it would need excess fuel to get it started. The CTS will signal to ECU that the engine is very cold, when you switch on the ignition to start the car in the morning. When you crank the engine, the ECU (aka brainbox for Nigerians) will command the injectors to spray in excess fuel and advance timing, for the engine to be able to start. When the engine starts, it would take some or few mins for the coolant temperature to rise. As the coolant temp rises, the cts will continue to signal to ecu the graduall rising of coolant temp, which will make the ecu to reduce the amount fuel injectors spray into the combustion chambers, as temp rises. When the engine gets to optimal/normal operating engine temp (like 90 degree celsius), the ecu will finally flatened or minimise the amount of fuel going into the combustion chambers. Thus, the work of CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor), usually located on Thermostat housing.

So, if your engine is always running cold or runs cold longer than it should (because the constantly spinning fan wouldnt let the coolant temp to rise), then your car would always be running thirsty ( consuming too much fuel) & there would be more wear & tear in the engine, since the proper lubrication of the engine has been hindered. Note that everytime you start your engine in the morning, there will be a little friction that will cause some wears on moving parts inside the engine, but would soon stop as engine oil gets warmer. But if the engine continues to run cold for a long time, the oil remains cold/thicker and there wont be proper lubrication. Hence, engine failure sooner than it should. So you see what has been happening to that engine!

If you remove your cooling system thermostat, the fluid/coolant in the engine walls wont have enough time to boil/warm up to optimal temp, before it flows/push back to radiator via the work of water pump. If the car is driven for a long time in city/traffic, the coolant/water in the cooling system would heat beyond optimal temp & wont cool off, because the fluid is continuosly flowing from engine walls to radiator. Even if the fans are contnuosly spinning, the fluid wont stay long in the radiator to be cooled off by the fans, before its pushed back to the radiator. This could lead to head gasket failure. Its the work of thermostat to regulate the flow of coolant in the cooling system. Removing it is a call for wahala. Though, it can be temporally removed and used without, if need be. But permanent removal is a call for engine replacement or rebuild.

You said your car is emitting smoke from the exhaust tail. What color is the smoke?

1. Blue smoke means your engine is burning oil (which usually is caused by improper engine lubrication, as i explained above).
2. Black smoke means exccesive fueling (one or two of engine sensors or components that controls fuelling is faulty).
3. White smoke means head gasket failure (especially when its constant).

Hope that helps or has answered your question. Or did I get you scared or confused?

Ikenna.

Ikenna351: Usually, Radiator electric fans are trigered on or controlled by radiator sensor or ECU via CTS/temp sender. Peugeot use radiator sensor to switch on their electric radiator fans, while most Japmobiles use ECU to do the same. I guess yours is ECU controlled. They had bypassed the ECU connection to the fan wiring connector, for it to be constantly running. You can trace back the original/factory connection of the fans with wiring diagram, test light or if you were there when it was bypassed(by knowing the wire(s) they cut off).

When Radiator electric fan spins constantly, the engine would always run cold or it would take the engine temperature eternity to rise a little, thereby more wear and tear. If the thermostat is removed, the engine would always run cold & would always run on extreme dangerous high temperature, when the engine eventualy warms, which could blow up the head gasket.

Usually, engine will be cold every morning. For a cold engine to start, it would need excess fuel to get it started. The CTS will signal to ECU that the engine is very cold, when you switch on the ignition to start the car in the morning. When you crank the engine, the ECU (aka brainbox for Nigerians) will command the injectors to spray in excess fuel and advance timing, for the engine to be able to start. When the engine starts, it would take some or few mins for the coolant temperature to rise. As the coolant temp rises, the cts will continue to signal to ecu the graduall rising of coolant temp, which will make the ecu to reduce the amount fuel injectors spray into the combustion chambers, as temp rises. When the engine gets to optimal/normal operating engine temp (like 90 degree celsius), the ecu will finally flatened or minimise the amount of fuel going into the combustion chambers. Thus, the work of CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor), usually located on Thermostat housing.

So, if your engine is always running cold or runs cold longer than it should (because the constantly spinning fan wouldnt let the coolant temp to rise), then your car would always be running thirsty ( consuming too much fuel) & there would be more wear & tear in the engine, since the proper lubrication of the engine has been hindered. Note that everytime you start your engine in the morning, there will be a little friction that will cause some wears on moving parts inside the engine, but would soon stop as engine oil gets warmer. But if the engine continues to run cold for a long time, the oil remains cold/thicker and there wont be proper lubrication. Hence, engine failure sooner than it should. So you see what has been happening to that engine!

If you remove your cooling system thermostat, the fluid/coolant in the engine walls wont have enough time to boil/warm up to optimal temp, before it flows/push back to radiator via the work of water pump. If the car is driven for a long time in city/traffic, the coolant/water in the cooling system would heat beyond optimal temp & wont cool off, because the fluid is continuosly flowing from engine walls to radiator. Even if the fans are contnuosly spinning, the fluid wont stay long in the radiator to be cooled off by the fans, before its pushed back to the radiator. This could lead to head gasket failure. Its the work of thermostat to regulate the flow of coolant in the cooling system. Removing it is a call for wahala. Though, it can be temporally removed and used without, if need be. But permanent removal is a call for engine replacement or rebuild.

You said your car is emitting smoke from the exhaust tail. What color is the smoke?

1. Blue smoke means your engine is burning oil (which usually is caused by improper engine lubrication, as i explained above).
2. Black smoke means exccesive fueling (one or two of engine sensors or components that controls fuelling is faulty).
3. White smoke means head gasket failure (especially when its constant).

Hope that helps or has answered your question. Or did I get you scared or confused?

Ikenna.

[

woah..u have so enlightened me.
the smoke looks bluish white , how can i handle this?

Ikenna351: Bypassing original connection & connecting the fans to run constantly as soon as ignition is on, because of climate? Is that what they told you, the reason for killing your engine? Climate? Hmm! The same you will go back to the mechanic to rebuild your engine soon or replace it, when it start emitting blue smoke from the exhaust, as a result of engine running cold constantly, not rising to optimal engine temp whenever the engine is running. Well, goodluck with your climate belief thing.

Mind you, your fan that died was because it was running constantly, which it wasnt designed to. So, be expecting the newly replaced one to die soon. Or maybe the 2nd one.

Ikenna.

i was not the first owner of the car, i bought it off someone and that was how i bought it. i just guessed because of our climate it was adjusted o(no one told me). is there a way it can be reconnected to run back as normal, i am asking because really and truly the car is beginning to emit this smoke though still runs perfectly, is there a way this can be corrected without opening the engine or doing anything solely mechanical?

i agree with fm7070, u need to stay with the motor mechanics if you want optimum result, also from my experience be sure not to be too bossy, let them talk more the you can sift whats not true.

juboye4eva: I used to have that mazda, first try to check on the return water from the radiator which is one of the major thing that makes the car to over heat.
Then check if the thermostat is still in the check but im sure it will be the first thing.
It's better to have like 2 mechanic anyway to reconfirm what the first one said and try to see if the fan is totally bad or still working as if its not really working anymore you will still need to change it.

thanks eva, my rewire first said that the fan was dead, i insisted he confirmed to me that it was dead by testing it, he was quite truthful and he told me that it was the brush that had kept the fan from working properly, he removed it and fitted it back again. along the line we noticed that a particular hose was busted, he also replaced the hose, and started the car and the temperature is back to sitting at the centre. i just took the car today from ishaga to victoria island without any issues.


@the fan motor starts from ignition and not later, i guess it was adjusted cos of our climate.

Thanks all
Thanks all

i went to refill my car AC 2 days ago and i left without any issues, i noticed at some point that the temp gauge just kept rising, then i put off the AC. by the time i checked the one of the radiator fans had stopped working. my mechanic says i have to change the fan. how is this possible, should it not be an electrical fault? please advise on what to do because i dont have an idea how much that fan will cost again.by the way i use a 1995 mazda 626

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My car jerks and sometimes go off while i am driving it. Also Engine wont Rev very well if i place my leg on the accelerator , therefore finding it difficult to accelerate.

i drive a 1995 mazda 626 auto transmission.whats your advise on the challenge i have with my car?

I noticed that my mazda 626 1995 model automatic transmission, usually takes about 3-5 seconds before picking up to the next gear. Whenever i accelerate on the first gear, it takes time to pick up to the second gear and then the third and sometimes even stops on the highway

I also notice that it jerks often when i accelarate. what may be the likely causes of this so that i can know exactly what to do to get the jerking to stop.

waiting for responses waiting for responses

I noticed that my mazda 626 1995 model automatic transmission, usually takes about 3-5 seconds before picking up to the next gear. Whenever i accelerate on the first gear, it takes time to pick up to the second gear and then the third and sometimes even stops on the highway

I also notice that it jerks often when i accelarate. what may be the likely causes of this so that i can know exactly what to do to get the jerking to stop.

Thanks a lot and hope to hear from owners of the same kind of car and Auto gurus in the house.

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i am thinking of doing a DIY (do it yourself) cleaning for my car upholstery. its really dirty but a closer look at it reveals that the seats can look bright and new again.

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i want to sell my brand new LCD TV, never opened, boxed and sealed comes with one year warranty, can also deliver to you on request and at a fee.

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LCD Yes
Full HD Yes
Clear Voice II yes
AV Mode Yes
HDMI Yes
USB 2.0 Yes
High Lights
Series Name LK430
Screen Size 32
Backlight CCFL
Energy Saving Smart Energy Saving
General Specification
Resolution 1920 x 1080p
Picture
Full HD 1080p Yes
Dynamic Contrast Ratio 100,000:1
Response time(millisecond) 4.0ms
Picture Wizard II Yes
DivX through USB 2.0 Yes (DivX HD)
XD Engine Yes
Color Gamut control Yes (3 modes)
Sound
Mono/Stereo/Dual (MTS/SAP) Yes / Yes / Yes
Audio Output (Watts - THD 10%) 300W PMPO
Speaker System 1 Way 2 Speaker
Surround System Infinite Surround
Dolby Digital Decoder Yes
Convenience
PC Connectivity Yes
HDMI (ver. 1.3 deep colour) Yes
Simplink ( HDMI-CEC) Yes
Connectivity(side)
AV In Yes (1)
HDMI in Yes (1)
Headphone out Yes (1)
USB 2.0 Yes (1)
Connectivity(Rear)
Antenna In Yes (1)
AV In Yes (1)
Digital Audio Out (co-axial/optical) Yes (1)
Component in (Y,Pb,Pr) + Audio Yes (1)
HDMI/HDCP In Yes (2)
RGB In (D-sub 15pin) - PC Yes (1)
PC Audio Input Yes (1)
RS-232C (Control / SVC) Yes (1)
Dimensions WxHxD (mm)
Set without stand 799 x 516 x 73.5
Including stand 799 x 550 x 207
Packing 965 x 600 x 190

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Me and my husband wants to sell this LG (32" 32LV3710 LED TV because its a gift of hardwork and
we have one tv already.at LG shop it costs 120000 but i am willing to sell at a
very reduced price of 105000. please note that its boxed, sealed, never opened
and comes with one year warranty.see features below and call charles
08034126198, we want to sell it ASAP.Also, we have 2 items of Brand new 1hp LG split AC for sale at just 47,000. this ACs are gifts, so we will like to sell them to someone who will value the price of these items.i visited LG shop and discovered that they are sold for 56,000 each. of you are interested call charles up on 08034126198.its for urgen sale of 47,000 each
LED Yes
Full HD Yes
Invisible Speakers Yes
Clear Voice II yes
AV Mode Yes
HDMI Yes
USB 2.0 Yes
Common Specification
Display Type LED LCD TV
Screen Size (Inch) 32
Picture
Resolution 1920 x 1080
Dynamic Contrast Ratio 4,000,000:1
ResponseTime(MPRT) 3.0ms
WCC (Wide Color Control) Yes
Video
AspectRatioCorrection 7 Modes
ColorTemperatureControl Yes
Just Scan (0% overscan) Yes
24p Real Cinema(24p 5:5/2:2 Pull down Mode) Yes
XD Engine Yes
Sound
Audio Output 10W + 10W
Speaker System 1 Way 2 Speakers
Dolby Digital Decoder Yes
Surround System Infinite 3D Surround
SoundMode 5 Modes (Standard/Music/Cinema/Sport/Game)
Clear Voice II Yes
Features
Invisible Speaker Yes
Smart Energy Saving Plus Yes
1080P Source Input HDMI 60p/50p/30p/24p Component 60p/50p
AV Input Navigation Yes
SIMPLINK (HDMI CEC) Yes
USB 2.0 MP3, JPEG, DivX
Intelligent Sensor Yes
Picture Wizard Yes
Interface
AV In Yes
RGB In (Dsub 15pin) Yes
PC Audio Input Yes
HDMI/HDCP Input HDMI In (3)
USB 2.0 Yes
RF In Yes
Component in (Y,Pb,Pr) + Audio Yes
Digital Audio Out Yes
RS232C (Control / SVC) Yes
Headphone Out Yes
LAN Yes
Dimensions (WxHxD)
Set (w/o stand) 764 x 484 x 35.4 (mm)
Included Stand 764 x 545 x 240 (m.

Me and my husband wants to sell this LG (32" 32LV3710 LED TV because its a gift of hardwork and
we have one tv already.at LG shop it costs 120000 but i am willing to sell at a
very reduced price of 105000. please note that its boxed, sealed, never opened
and comes with one year warranty.see features below and call charles
08034126198, we want to sell it ASAP.Also, we have 2 items of Brand new 1hp LG split AC for sale at just 47,000. this ACs are gifts, so we will like to sell them to someone who will value the price of these items.i visited LG shop and discovered that they are sold for 56,000 each. of you are interested call charles up on 08034126198.its for urgen sale of 47,000 each
LED Yes
Full HD Yes
Invisible Speakers Yes
Clear Voice II yes
AV Mode Yes
HDMI Yes
USB 2.0 Yes
Common Specification
Display Type LED LCD TV
Screen Size (Inch) 32
Picture
Resolution 1920 x 1080
Dynamic Contrast Ratio 4,000,000:1
ResponseTime(MPRT) 3.0ms
WCC (Wide Color Control) Yes
Video
AspectRatioCorrection 7 Modes
ColorTemperatureControl Yes
Just Scan (0% overscan) Yes
24p Real Cinema(24p 5:5/2:2 Pull down Mode) Yes
XD Engine Yes
Sound
Audio Output 10W + 10W
Speaker System 1 Way 2 Speakers
Dolby Digital Decoder Yes
Surround System Infinite 3D Surround
SoundMode 5 Modes (Standard/Music/Cinema/Sport/Game)
Clear Voice II Yes
Features
Invisible Speaker Yes
Smart Energy Saving Plus Yes
1080P Source Input HDMI 60p/50p/30p/24p Component 60p/50p
AV Input Navigation Yes
SIMPLINK (HDMI CEC) Yes
USB 2.0 MP3, JPEG, DivX
Intelligent Sensor Yes
Picture Wizard Yes
Interface
AV In Yes
RGB In (Dsub 15pin) Yes
PC Audio Input Yes
HDMI/HDCP Input HDMI In (3)
USB 2.0 Yes
RF In Yes
Component in (Y,Pb,Pr) + Audio Yes
Digital Audio Out Yes
RS232C (Control / SVC) Yes
Headphone Out Yes
LAN Yes
Dimensions (WxHxD)
Set (w/o stand) 764 x 484 x 35.4 (mm)
Included Stand 764 x 545 x 240 (mm)

thanks a lot onyx, sounds like a good buy