rmx:


Did about 35 to 37 I think .for 9 inch . Machine made , vibrated . With stone dust . Use 3x or other 42.5 variants for all my projects including block moulding

Bun watching you quietly.













And you look suspicious.

michlins:
they didn't teach him well or probably he didn't learn how to get his target audience.


In this Nigeria where people are importing something as simple as grass for their house, you said you can't build here.

There are very wealthy individuals who will give you open check if you can deliver what they desire

I am not the person.

I am reporting what he said.

You don't just walk up to a rich man and say I can do this and he says go ahead and do it for me, you need to be introduced.

Not everyone has the connection.

He said the amount he would use to build a bungalow to American standards would build a 2 or 3 storey building, people said build it for the looks, ignore the quality and he said he would still be linked to the property and he doesn't want that.

He did try before giving up.

sonnie10:


More detailed information

Thanks for the mention Sir.

3strikes:


You can say that again. literally the price of everything has almost doubled.

Quick Question
- is it advisable to mold our own blocks? is that going to save us some money, I know with this approach, I can be rest assure of the quality...based on the mix ratio

[/b]- What are other suggestions on what to do to save cost on building materials? [b]

I am open to your suggestions and guidance

Thanks

3strikes!!!

Buy things in advance if possible . if you have the finance , space and security , as crazy as prices are now , will likely still go up . Thank me later

Best savings I have , came because of that , can’t even begin to mention the numbers . Mind blowing .

There is world wide inflation

FEGEITOK:


I have heard of blocks that nails have difficulty going through. This sounds like that kind of block.

It all depends on the budget on the one hand and the love of standards on the other hands.

These should be the kinds of houses that can live 100 years.

Someone who studied how to build houses in the US has refused to build houses in Nigeria because he doesn't want to economize like we do here, he says he wants to build houses that live "forever" and cannot be connected to a project that cannot stand the test of time.

He says our people don't want to pay for quality, so he changed professions when he came to Nigeria.

He has legitimate concerns. I laugh when I see those decorative bricks in Nigeria. They are as flat as biscuits. Even though they are used for aesthetics, but to be most, that is not what building bricks are supposed to look like.

Even the wood frame work for roofing, I am not sure why Nigeria build do not include the planks before the main metal covers. It is not just about the difference in weather conditions.

sonnie10:

He has legitimate concerns. I laugh when I see those decorative bricks in Nigeria. They are as flat as biscuits. Even though they are used for aesthetics, but to be most, that is not what building bricks are supposed to look like.

How many are willing to pay N5,000 for just 4 piece of pressure treated wood?

FEGEITOK:


I am not the person.

I am reporting what he said.

You don't just walk up to a rich man and say I can do this and he says go ahead and do it for me, you need to be introduced.

Not everyone has the connection.

He said the amount he would use to build a bungalow to American standards would build a 2 or 3 storey building, people said build it for the looks, ignore the quality and he said he would still be linked to the property and he doesn't want that.

He did try before giving up.

A friend tried this before but gave up along the way while trying to forge strategic partnership with local service providers.

The “show-me-the-money” and lackadaisical attitude of the local contractors was a major turn off.

It wasn’t long before they started posting devotional messages and solicitation for help on the platform he created.

FEGEITOK:


I am not the person.

I am reporting what he said.

You don't just walk up to a rich man and say I can do this and he says go ahead and do it for me, you need to be introduced.

Not everyone has the connection.

He said the amount he would use to build a bungalow to American standards would build a 2 or 3 storey building, people said build it for the looks, ignore the quality and he said he would still be linked to the property and he doesn't want that.

He did try before giving up.

he came back from USA and felt he has the necessary tools to navigate Nigeria waters?


Omo if you want to be a king, you must serve a king. There are lots of construction companies he could have started working for and his skills will be made manifest.

Igbo "ịgba boy" is necessary in any new venture. They will show you the way and you will forge your own path through that.

Anyway, what do I know

sonnie10:
Why are you all talking about equipment cost for molding blocks? Those people do come with their molding tools and charge per bag. The last time I know was # 1k per bag. But I won’t encourage anyone to follow that route if you are cautious of time in your project

The down side is that those people wahala is too much. It’s too much headache!
If it is not cement missing
Laziness
Lackadaisical attitude
They expect you to baby them, on top of that.
You pay for packing of the blocks or they just scatter it every where on the site.
If rain falls, it’s your business not theirs.
They could spend weeks to mold just 100bags

Here is a rough estimate
10bags of cement..(plus transport)....#45k
Labour for molding 10bag....... #10k
Sand (SE) 10 tons.............. #25k
water.............................# 5 (might be free)
Total ........85k
You get 400 (40 x 10) pieces of hollow 9” blocks . This is approx. # # 215 each.

Vibrated blocks is a different ball game.

Handmoulding block is not advisable to construct a Fence talkless of using it to build a house,I've used both handmoulding block and vibrated block in different buildings and I made a vow no matter the cost,I'll always go for vibrated block. To save cost for my clients,I just got a vibrated moulding machine that'll be producing 400-700blocks in 8hrs(moulding at Site) and be charging my Clients per bag,maybe 2000-3000 never conclude on the price yet but from my calculations, the price for 9inches block will be around 200-220 if you used my service.

FEGEITOK:


Hang your TV without worry kind of blocks

Not necessarily.

The anchoring system is also very important.

EgunMogaji2:


Not necessarily.

The anchoring system is also very important.

....without worrying that the weight of the TV alone will disintegrate the blocks given their poor mix ratios.

You are right. The anchoring system ensures things stay in place no matter what.

olukaygold:

Handmoulding block is not advisable to construct a Fence talkless of using it to build a house,I've used both handmoulding block and vibrated block in different buildings and I made a vow no matter the cost,I'll always go for vibrated block. To save cost for my clients,I just got a vibrated moulding machine that'll be producing 400-700blocks in 8hrs(moulding at Site) and be charging my Clients per bag,maybe 2000-3000 never conclude on the price yet but from my calculations, the price for 9inches block will be around 200-220 if you used my service.

Great number of houses that were built in the 70s and 80s were with hand molded blocks. They are still standing while newer constructions are collapsing even before completion.

On your analogy about fence and house, I would think that one would rather use stronger blocks for fence than for a house because fences are constantly exposed to weather elements unlike blocks used for houses which are sheltered.

Good morningng everyone. I need your professional ideas please.
There is a 5 unit semidetached house of 3
and 2 bedroom flats. The Engineer constructed a single chamber septic tank to collect the solid waste from the toilet only and directed all the wastewater (bathroom and kitchen) and flood water to a pipe meant to be linked to a drainage channel outside the compound.
Now, none of the houses along the street has a draniage channel (most/all are low-cost buildings) and there is a concern that the next house might not continue a drainage channel if constructed in front of the building alone (90% probability because of several reasons).
Pls sirs, what can be done to collect and/or dispose this wastewater properly. The soil is made up of tiny pore lateritic sand.

cc: everyone with an opinion

Spyder880
Egunmogaji2
N3xt

DrGoodman:


Bun watching you quietly.













And you look suspicious.

He's not a contractor nor a builder

topsy23:


He's not a contractor nor a builder

You won't understand what I saw from his history. The guy will show his hand soon.

Apologist02:
Good morningng everyone. I need your professional ideas please.
There is a 5 unit semidetached house of 3
and 2 bedroom flats. The Engineer constructed a single chamber septic tank to collect the solid waste from the toilet only and directed all the wastewater (bathroom and kitchen) and flood water to a pipe meant to be linked to a drainage channel outside the compound.
Now, none of the houses along the street has a draniage channel (most/all are low-cost buildings) and there is a concern that the next house might not continue a drainage channel if constructed in front of the building alone (90% probability because of several reasons).
Pls sirs, what can be done to collect and/or dispose this wastewater properly. The soil is made up of tiny pore lateritic sand.

cc: everyone with an opinion

Spyder880
Egunmogaji2
N3xt

I raised a similar concern 2 days ago when someone shared an alternative septic tank solution but I got no response.

I know people are quick to jump on solutions that are not only cheap but quicker to execute without considering the downsides of such solution.

__________

I’ve seen the havoc such undirected waste waters can do on buildings when left unattended.
As a matter of fact, I have a very good case study of such issue on this platform.

I had a similar issue on my personal build but I did all my best to ensure waste water (from my compound or that of neighbors) doesn’t percolate around my property and I’d never had to worry about water issues regardless of how terrible the situation might be. I used limestone waste to sandfill my driveway and perimeter.
I’ll try do a video during any heavy rain to show you how heavy flood are diverted from my property.

My advice for you is to stop the water before it stops you. Ensure you redirect the waste wasters far away from your property (at least 100m away) even if it means you’d do drainage for your neighbor or running underground pipes to a safer level for proposal disposal of the waste waters.

I do hope the professionals and septic tank contractors would be here to recommend a more pragmatic approach to solving this type of problem.

Regards.


Edit:
_________
** Limestone waste absorbs moisture

n3xt:


I raised a similar concern 2 days ago when someone shared an alternative septic tank solution but I got no response.

I know people are quick to jump on solutions that are not only cheap but quicker to execute without considering the downsides of such solution.

__________

I’ve seen the havoc such undirected waste waters can do on buildings when left unattended.
As a matter of fact, I have a very good case study of such issue on this platform.

I had a similar issue on my personal build but I did all my best to ensure waste water (from my compound or that of neighbors) doesn’t percolate around my property and I’d never had to worry about water issues regardless of how terrible the situation might be. I used limestone waste to sandfill my driveway and perimeter.
I’ll try do a video during any heavy rain to show you how heavy flood are diverted from my property.

My advice for you is to stop the water before it stops you. Ensure you redirect the waste wasters far away from your property (at least 100m away) even if it means you’d do drainage for your neighbor or running underground pipes to a safer level for proposal disposal of the waste waters.

I do hope the professional septic tank installers would be here to recommend a more pragmatic approach to solving this type of problem.

Regards.

Guyman, take this your advice and shove it up your rectum. You don't deceive anyone anymore. Acting all nice and useful to bait a victim is an old 419 tactics. You no even get sense, your still stuck in the 1987 formats while your mates are using Hushpuppi and Invictus methods.

You no dey shame.

DrGoodman:


You won't understand what I saw from his history. The guy will show his hand soon.

Thrash as usual.

n3xt:


Thrash as usual.

We know, but you won't defraud anyone here soon.

Oloshi.

DrGoodman:


Guyman, take this your advice and shove it up your rectum. You don't deceive anyone anymore. Acting all nice and useful to bait a victim is an old 419 tactics. You no even get sense, your still stuck in the 1987 formats while your mates are using Hushpuppi and Invictus methods.

You no dey shame.

I see you Bros as inconsequential.

When it comes to battle of wits, you are unarmed. Enjoy your reign here.

I’m unperturbed.

n3xt:


I see you Bros as inconsequential.

When it comes to battle of wits, you are unarmed. Enjoy your reign here.

I’m unperturbed.

OLOSHI
BARAWO
EKPERIME

topsy23:


He's not a contractor nor a builder

You get time tope

n3xt:


I raised a similar concern 2 days ago when someone shared an alternative septic tank solution but I got no response.

I know people are quick to jump on solutions that are not only cheap but quicker to execute without considering the downsides of such solution.

__________

I’ve seen the havoc such undirected waste waters can do on buildings when left unattended.
As a matter of fact, I have a very good case study of such issue on this platform.

I had a similar issue on my personal build but I did all my best to ensure waste water (from my compound or that of neighbors) doesn’t percolate around my property and I’d never had to worry about water issues regardless of how terrible the situation might be. I used limestone waste to sandfill my driveway and perimeter.
I’ll try do a video during any heavy rain to show you how heavy flood are diverted from my property.

My advice for you is to stop the water before it stops you. Ensure you redirect the waste wasters far away from your property (at least 100m away) even if it means you’d do drainage for your neighbor or running underground pipes to a safer level for proposal disposal of the waste waters.

I do hope the professionals and septic tank contractors would be here to recommend a more pragmatic approach to solving this type of problem.

Regards.


Edit:
_________
** Limestone waste absorbs moisture

Morning Boss oga QC1 say make I hail you.

I come in peace

n3xt:


I see you Bros as inconsequential.

When it comes to battle of wits, you are unarmed. Enjoy your reign here.

I’m unperturbed.

Only on your personal build... How come you are not applying all these wisdom on other people's build?

We saw what you did on Qc1 project and oga maverick...

Does it means your wisdom us theory not practical?

n3xt:


My advice for you is to stop the water before it stops you. Ensure you redirect the waste wasters far away from your property (at least 100m away) even if it means you’d do drainage for your neighbor or running underground pipes to a safer level for proposal disposal of the waste waters.

Thanks for the response sir. What type of pipe will you recommend (the pipe will pass underneath an access road across the street)?

Apologist02:
Good morningng everyone. I need your professional ideas please.
There is a 5 unit semidetached house of 3
and 2 bedroom flats. The Engineer constructed a single chamber septic tank to collect the solid waste from the toilet only and directed all the wastewater (bathroom and kitchen) and flood water to a pipe meant to be linked to a drainage channel outside the compound.
Now, none of the houses along the street has a draniage channel (most/all are low-cost buildings) and there is a concern that the next house might not continue a drainage channel if constructed in front of the building alone (90% probability because of several reasons).
Pls sirs, what can be done to collect and/or dispose this wastewater properly. The soil is made up of tiny pore lateritic sand.

cc: everyone with an opinion

Spyder880
Egunmogaji2
N3xt

Personally, I adopted old fashioned solution for my builds and simply dug pits thus none of my wastewater exits my compound. In your situation if there is no opportunity to create pits then you need to continue the gutter system.

On my current build I will attempt the latest modern system as a test.

FEGEITOK:


I am not the person.

I am reporting what he said.

You don't just walk up to a rich man and say I can do this and he says go ahead and do it for me, you need to be introduced.

Not everyone has the connection.

He said the amount he would use to build a bungalow to American standards would build a 2 or 3 storey building, people said build it for the looks, ignore the quality and he said he would still be linked to the property and he doesn't want that.

He did try before giving up.

Connection is indeed key. I've sold multiple plots to someone that was referred to me by a one plot buyer. The multiple plot buyer would never even have considered me without the referral. Of this I am sure.

But it's true that there are money bags in Nigeria, on this very thread and on this platform. Most are super silent.

Apologist02:

Thanks for the response sir. What type of pipe will you recommend (the pipe will pass underneath an access road across the street)?

You’d be fine with 4in thick pipe but use larger pipe or 2 4in pipes if you anticipate the volume of water will be much. I use 2 pipes for my perimeter drain.

Another important thing is you must ensure you achieve a very good slope. See pic below.

Those people do come with their molding tools and charge per bag.


They could spend weeks to mold just 100bags


Except the building project is an emergency, or the client insist otherwise or no space in the purported site/land for minimum setbacks I will always prefer hand mould blocks on site.

As regards the bold from what is obtainable with those who mould for me, the minimum a moulder moulds is 10 bags per day. So in moulding just 100 bags it will 2 moulders 5 days. Spyder880 have spoken concerning the type of sand to use to getting good blocks. Every location has good sand for making such and in some areas you'll have to mix 2 types of sand in the right proportion to get good blocks that will compete favourably with those so called vibrated blocks.

If you're moulding during the raining season ensure you have DPM so that it can be used to cover/shed the blocks from direct hit of rainfall. It's the duty of the moulders to cover it as long as you make the provision at least that's how it's been done by me with those I've been working with and in other areas I know.

Another factor that gives strength to the block is in how you go about doing the watering/sprinkling of the blocks as they set. Not many people pay much attention to this in it's initial stages under the right atmospheric conditions.

Not many people understands cutting costs in the built environment while still maintaining efficiency.

Just for learning purpose

Here’s a picture of limestone waste used on my driveway.

If you look at pic 1, you’d see standing water and a dry land. The dry land part is my side. No matter how heavy the rain, my driveway doesn’t get soaked or soggy.

Stonebase and stone dust would allow passthrough. Limestone waste doesn’t. It absorbs moisture.

I suggest you disconnect the storm/ rain water pipes from the others and allow it flow out by gravity to reduce the volume of water since you don't have a drainage channel yet.

For the waste water you can construct a sump pit of adequate depth infront of your building and channel the pipes into it. The sump pit should have some holes bored around the top to allow water seep into the soil thereby reducing the volume of water it retains and preventing overflow.

Luckily your soil is lateritic so I assume your area has low water table and flooding shouldn't be an issue.

Apologist02:
Good morningng everyone. I need your professional ideas please.
There is a 5 unit semidetached house of 3
and 2 bedroom flats. The Engineer constructed a single chamber septic tank to collect the solid waste from the toilet only and directed all the wastewater (bathroom and kitchen) and flood water to a pipe meant to be linked to a drainage channel outside the compound.
Now, none of the houses along the street has a draniage channel (most/all are low-cost buildings) and there is a concern that the next house might not continue a drainage channel if constructed in front of the building alone (90% probability because of several reasons).
Pls sirs, what can be done to collect and/or dispose this wastewater properly. The soil is made up of tiny pore lateritic sand.

cc: everyone with an opinion

Spyder880
Egunmogaji2
N3xt

n3xt:
Just for learning purpose

Here’s a picture of limestone waste used on my driveway.

If you look at pic 1, you’d see standing water and a dry land. The dry land part is my side. No matter how heavy the rain, my driveway doesn’t get soaked or soggy.

Stonebase and stone dust would allow passthrough. Limestone waste doesn’t. It absorbs moisture.

Suprisingly your camera work here is very poor.

If you dont get it forget about it