aieromon:


ATF DW-1

Tanks

SeyiJayden:


Good morning mr corner, I’m currently experiencing this issue with my civic 08. Just want to be sure do I have to take down the gearbox as well or it’s a different location for the civic

It’s the same procedure for your civic. You can take down your gearbox to clean all the solenoids or you can do your transmission fluid change

Please how much can i get the following items for a CRV 08

1. Front and Rear Shocks.
2. Oil Sump
3. Radiator

Cc
Gazzuzz
Luvinhubby
Conner44

adubam:


Kugbo market. I would advice you buy the local pedal lock. It's more rugged and reliable than this.

Thanks so much.
Pls do you know how much I could get the locally made pedal lock.

haslaw:


Thanks so much.
Pls do you know how much I could get the locally made pedal lock.

#3,500 - #4,000

adubam:

#3,500 - #4,000

can you please share pix or a place to buy in Lagos.

What i observed in my v6 2006 honda accord aka DC

1. It does a hard shift when the transmission is changing from gear 1 to 2 (like a foward jerk)

2. If the car is stationary at park and I put it in drive, I need to pedal down abit for it to start moving

3. My transmission oil leaks below, this has been going on for months

4. Yesterday I noticed that when the engine is
decelerating and I step on the pedal to speed up, my rpm would go high without the car responding so, I have to slow down completely and start accelerating again

5. I have no check engine light on, neither is my D light blinking

What could be the issue?

Update:
I did a scan and it pulled 2 codes, there were no DTC stored other that this below
1. 61-1 Modulator control unit initial IG low voltage
2. 83-13 PCM/ECM Relation Failure

Now, I drained my ATF and poured in 5 litres of Honda Genuine DW1 ATF, yet the problems from 1 to 5 above still persist, help me please,
Cc Gazzuzz

Conner44:


One of your solenoid screens is almost plugged up because of dirty or old transmission fluid. The bad news is that the affected solenoid is not one of the two switches visible and easily accessible on the external part of your gearbox but the culprit is actually one of the other D, E or F solenoids INSIDE the gearbox housing itself.

To take care of the issue you’d have to drain out all yiur transmission fluid and drop your gearbox then open the casing to be able to reach the affected one to clean it up properly. Also don’t forget to clean your transmission oil filter while you’re in there.

Or

You can do your transmission drain and fill THREE TIMES to try and flush out the debris blocking the screen of the affected solenoid. Remember to use original atf dw1 fluid in your transmission.

Your luck is that this issue isn’t one that can grenade your gearbox because people have driven with the same symptoms for years without their gearbox packing up. It’s just the discomfort of always checking your rpms and lifting your foot to change the gear from 1 to 2 that’s the hassle plus the fact that you can’t zoom off from a stop light smartly because of it.

Please sir is there a video you can point us to on YouTube or possibly the right key words to search. I learn better watching videos and can easily replicate what I see. Thanks

osato45:
What i observed in my v6 2006 honda accord aka DC

1. It does a hard shift when the transmission is changing from gear 1 to 2 (like a foward jerk)

2. If the car is stationary at park and I put it in drive, I need to pedal down abit for it to start moving

3. My transmission oil leaks below, this has been going on for months

4. Yesterday I noticed that when the engine is decelerating and I step on the pedal to speed up, my rpm would go high without the car responding so, I have to slow down completely and start accelerating again

5. I have no check engine light on, neither is my D light blinking

What could be the issue?

Since you’ve had a slow leak for sometime on your gearbox then I’d assume you’ve been topping up the fluid with something, if you ran it low or you didn’t use the recommended type then it’s too bad.

From what I’ve understood from your symptoms it’s apparent that your transmission is slipping and if you do not have it overhauled asap it will give up on you sooner than later.

Try to get a scan of your gearbox system to know what’s up. That your D light isn’t blinking doesn’t mean there isn’t a stored temporary code in its system for you to see.

HooxJnr:


Please sir is there a video you can point us to on YouTube or possibly the right key words to search. I learn better watching videos and can easily replicate what I see. Thanks

I don’t know how to get a video out for you but I can direct you here with little directions. To do this easily you’d have to bring down your gearbox but if you can’t then try the below steps:

Drain out all your gearbox fluid

Get two jacks

Use one to jack up your car at the front drivers wheel and the other one to jack up your gearbox from underneath the engine bay (place flat wood in between the jack and your gearbox)

Remove your drivers wheel

Remove the rubber sand guards/protectors you see there

Take off the black rubber housing covering your transmission range switch and remove the switch itself

Remove the top and bottom gearbox mounts (you’d have to take out your battery, battery tray and intake air filter housing to easily reach the top one)

Lower the jack holding the gearbox from underneath the vehicle so the engine drops down a bit to give you a little clearance

Now undo all the bolts holding the side gearbox housing (on the side where you removed the transmission range switch facing the drivers wheel) I have forgotten exactly how many bolts they are but when you’re in there you’d easily see them

you can also remove all your suspension components on that side like the hub, linkage, shock etc to make more space for you to work

Slide the gearbox cover out from underneath the vehicle to expose the interior part of your gearbox where all the other 3 solenoids are plugged in place by their own bolts)

Undo the bolts for each solenoid, unplug their switches and remove them from the gearbox

Use carb cleaner to blast them clean and make sure you focus on their filter screens/plunger

you would not be able to clean your main transmission filter because that one is located in the interior chamber of your gearbox where the fluid is being circulated proper, hence the initial recommendation to take down the entire gearbox

After you’re done replace all solenoids back in the exact order you removed them

Reinstall the gearbox housing cover and bolts as you removed them in the reverse order and close up your gearbox (remember to use a silicone gasket maker to ensure an airtight fit between metal surfaces)

Jack the gearbox back up and install the top and bottom mounts

Put back your battery tray, battery etc

Put your wheel back properly

Fill your gearbox with 3.5 ltrs of atf-dw1 Honda fluid and start your engine to observe for fluid leaks

Cycle through your gears from P to D1 and back 5 times (while holding your brake) to circulate the new fluid through the gearbox valve body

Take the car for a slow test drive and once it’s warmed up gun the throttle to make sure you engage all your gears up to the fifth

Hopefully your jerk would be fixed as well as every other issues you’re experiencing with your gearbox

note that this fix won’t work if your gearbox fibers/clutch packs are already fried due to prior driving with low/burnt/dirty/fake or unrecommended fluid

The type of solenoids you’re looking to clean is below. Focus on the hole on the top of that black protruding pipe to take out all the debris blocking its free flow passage.

Hello all, I need help .

My wife's Honda Accord 2007 ( Discussion Continues) has a nagging issue. The first thing I noticed was the car suddenly jerking and hesitating on top speed like two months ago, it hesitates,jerks ,then picks up. Also,sometimes when entering the house,because it's somehow hilly,the car would refuse to climb except you apply a lot more force to the acccelerator ,with this ,sometimes it climbs and sometimes,it still refuses, you would have to reverse, switch off the AC, put off the car ,then start again so one can climb. I got a mechanic who said he needed to clean the injector, he did and the problem seemed to stop.
After some time, the car would hesitate a lot of time in traffic, but doesn't get to stop, driving wasn't smooth,then shifting gears comes with a lot of jerking ( moving from Park to Reverse or to Drive), the jerking was almost scary. The mechanic who checked said it was throttle body, he replaced it and the jerking when shifting gears was addressed significantly but the car hesitation still continued, it behaves like the fuel supply gets cut off intermittently.

This is how the car behaves, it suddenly hesitates like it won't move, then suddenly forcefully surges forward and continues moving. This happens intermittently and is quite annoying.

The mechanic again said it was something that had to do with the transmission, he claimed he changed some parts, topped up the transmission oil, changed the filter etc. The car seemed to be okay when I drove for some kilometers then the same symptoms showed up again.

The car was scanned like 2 months ago when the symptoms started showing up and I have attached the scan results here. Someone,kindly advise on what I should do next .

funlover1:
Hello all, I need help .

My wife's Honda Accord 2007 ( Discussion Continues) has a nagging issue. The first thing I noticed was the car suddenly jerking and hesitating on top speed like two months ago, it hesitates,jerks ,then picks up. Also,sometimes when entering the house,because it's somehow hilly,the car would refuse to climb except you apply a lot more force to the acccelerator ,with this ,sometimes it climbs and sometimes,it still refuses, you would have to reverse, switch off the AC, put off the car ,then start again so one can climb. I got a mechanic who said he needed to clean the injector, he did and the problem seemed to stop.
After some time, the car would hesitate a lot of time in traffic, but doesn't get to stop, driving wasn't smooth,then shifting gears comes with a lot of jerking ( moving from Park to Reverse or to Drive), the jerking was almost scary. The mechanic who checked said it was throttle body, he replaced it and the jerking when shifting gears was addressed significantly but the car hesitation still continued, it behaves like the fuel supply gets cut off intermittently.

This is how the car behaves, it suddenly hesitates like it won't move, then suddenly forcefully surges forward and continues moving. This happens intermittently and is quite annoying.

The mechanic again said it was something that had to do with the transmission, he claimed he changed some parts, topped up the transmission oil, changed the filter etc. The car seemed to be okay when I drove for some kilometers then the same symptoms showed up again.

The car was scanned like 2 months ago when the symptoms started showing up and I have attached the scan results here. Someone,kindly advise on what I should do next .

Issue related to your rocker arm and the sensor

After removing the battery of my car(Honda 2011) it started displaying this. Radio don't work, and time is not showing.

Thinkfree:
After removing the battery of my car(Honda 2011) it started displaying this. Radio don't work, and time is not showing.

please i need solutions to this problems

Thinkfree:
please i need solutions problems

SRS
Tpms
Check engine lights

Morning bosses, I’m new to this thread and also a first time car owner. I recently bought my Honda Accord 2013 last week and it has been really smooth I must say. Although I had some minor problems CEL was and I replaced the CEL switch and serviced it. Car is really smooth, however the dealer told me to change my break pads.

So to cut the long story short where can I get an original break pad for my car and how much is it. I’ll also need a reputable mechanic in lagos too as i am having trust issues with some. Also what scanner do you recommend I get and how can I get it too. Thank you

quam9997:
Morning bosses, I’m new to this thread and also a first time car owner. I recently bought my Honda Accord 2013 last week and it has been really smooth I must say. Although I had some minor problems CEL was and I replaced the CEL switch and serviced it. Car is really smooth, however the dealer told me to change my break pads.

So to cut the long story short where can I get an original break pad for my car and how much is it. I’ll also need a reputable mechanic in lagos too as i am having trust issues with some. Also what scanner do you recommend I get and how can I get it too. Thank you

Search for luvinhubby on this site.

He is a honda parts dealer, a guru and can recommend a mechanic for you.

Dealt with him all the way from the North and never has there been a bad experience.

He picks up his calls and even gives advice/solutions.

Enjoy yr ride.

nitt:


Search for luvinhubby on this site.

He is a honda parts dealer, a guru and can recommend a mechanic for you.

Dealt with him all the way from the North and never has there been a bad experience.

He picks up his calls and even gives advice/solutions.

Enjoy yr ride.

Thanks for this .. I really appreciate


Done. Thank you

What kind of scanner does one need to be able to check car properly and I’ll appreciate any referral

quam9997:


Thanks for this .. I really appreciate


Done. Thank you

You're welcome

I think Conner44 sells Bluetooth scanners.

quam9997:
What kind of scanner does one need to be able to check car properly and I’ll appreciate any referral

4 Original Honda ATF DW-1 for sale.

Got them earlier but I just sold my car and won't be needing them again.

Price: N5,500 each.

4 litres * N5,500 = N22,000.

Quote me if interested.

Morning guys, I just scanned my car now and it brought up this code. P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1

Does that mean I need to change catalyst? It was confirmed that catalyst was in the vehicle but I’m now confused

quam9997:
Morning guys, I just scanned my car now and it brought up this code. P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1

Does that mean I need to change catalyst? It was confirmed that catalyst was in the vehicle but I’m now confused

Don't bother about the code. It has no effect on your car

lightnlife:
I think Conner44 sells Bluetooth scanners.

quam9997 you can buy a good scanner from the contact below

GAZZUZZ:


Buy this tool to scan your car your self.

Costs ₦10,000.

https://www.nairaland.com/6885954/xtool-advance-ad10-auto-car

Conner44:


Since you’ve had a slow leak for sometime on your gearbox then I’d assume you’ve been topping up the fluid with something, if you ran it low or you didn’t use the recommended type then it’s too bad.

From what I’ve understood from your symptoms it’s apparent that your transmission is slipping and if you do not have it overhauled asap it will give up on you sooner than later.

Try to get a scan of your gearbox system to know what’s up. That your D light isn’t blinking doesn’t mean there isn’t a stored temporary code in its system for you to see.

update today, I did a scan and below are the codes, I don't think it has any relationship with my A/T

Conner44:

quam9997 you can buy a good scanner from the contact below

That’s the one I got

osato45:
update today, I did a scan and below are the codes, I don't think it has any relationship with my A/T

Yes from the scan it looks like your transmission is still in good order.

But your brain box might be the issue here. Try to switch another one into your vehicle and go on a test drive before concluding on payment for it.

Conner44:


Yes from the scan it looks like your transmission is still in good order.

But your brain box might be the issue here. Try to switch another one into your vehicle and go on a test drive before concluding on payment for it.

okay I will look out for one

Dozieson:


Don't bother about the code. It has no effect on your car

Really?

Good morning everyone.

My steering is hard to turn when entering corners or a roundabout.

The pump is good and my mechanic thinks it is the steering rack.

I don't have much for new one.

The car is Honda Accord 2007.

Questions

1. Should I rebuild it?

2. Should I buy toks or must buy a new one?

Please I need your help on this.

Thank you all.

Originakalokalo:
Good morning everyone.

My steering is hard to turn when entering corners or a roundabout.

The pump is good and my mechanic thinks it is the steering rack.

I don't have much for new one.

The car is Honda Accord 2007.

Questions

1. Should I rebuild it?

2. Should I buy toks or must buy a new one?

Please I need your help on this.

Thank you all.

I rebuilt mine and I'm enjoying it.