Twostep:
Good afternoon House, I had a terrible experience with my tiler. Contracted him to clean the floor tiles as he says there’s a chemical they use that will give a fine finish.

After job done I noticed the railings were affected and looks rusted due to the effect if the chemical.

Please how can I correct this to the bearest minimum ?

I wish I just went with soap and water

Go to where they sold kitchen pot ask them you need “ film” used to wash back of stained pot, it’s a white dry substance sold around N200 per one, buy as many as you can.
Apply it into sponge and wash the stainless, it will clear off.
Then you can buy liquid stainless cleaner to shine it. With N2000 all your stainless will look like new one
That is all.

Kvngfrosh:
yes command is not far for me…which bungalow ?

Whatzapp me on 08085310359

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofJeGfYxfEQ


Transforming Spaces.....

Let's handle your interior.

https://www.nairaland.com/6534100/interior-design-project/6#118059166

For your pop & wall screeding



Call or WhatsApp 07088534661

rotecch77:


Go to where they sold kitchen pot ask them you need “ film” used to wash back of stained pot, it’s a white dry substance sold around N200 per one, buy as many as you can.
Apply it into sponge and wash the stainless, it will clear off.
Then you can buy liquid stainless cleaner to shine it. With N2000 all your stainless will look like new one
That is all.

I believe you are talking about Vim (not film) made by PZ. It’s available in most supermarkets.
I would be surprised if that would work because the stain doesn’t look like dirt but chemical corrosion.

sonnie10:

I believe you are talking about Vim (not film) made by PZ. It’s available in most supermarkets.
I would be surprised if that would work because the stain doesn’t look like dirt but chemical corrosion.

Yes, you are right with the name. Yes it’s chemical reaction from the tiles cleaner, may be the cleaner used hydrochloric acid or any related type.
But the VIM will clear it with stainless spray cleaner as I explained up there.
You can even apply the VIM on very smooth sand paper with little water to clear it off.
People will not tell you this secret they will charge you a lot of money to get this done

sonnie10:

Is the total length of the 16 pillars 50 feet or is this the length of just one pillar?

How could the length of a pillars b 50feets? Which kind wahala b this! Pillars is 3meters each or 10feet each highest. The building length is 50feets while the breath is 30feets. Pillars is usually 9" inches width each. I don't understand ur question oo

sonnie10:

If they are of equal length, that means each is about 3.2feet in height.

Sure u r right here

Akerewe:


The entire pillars is 16 Nos
My mixing ratio is 1:1.5:3 u can as well recommend the best mixing ratio for me also. Length 50feets: breath 25feets: width 9inch size of a 9inches blocks which was used for the entire wall.

Also is it ok to use 16mm for the columns and 12mm for the upper beams for a storey building

The standard practice is that you do 1 part cement to 3 parts coarse aggregate.

What is supposed to be varied is the sand of which you are using 1.5 parts.

So as far as I am concerned your mix ratio is fine.

I use 1 part cement to 2 parts sand to 3 parts coarse aggregate though.

As for your question on using 16mm for the columns and 12mm for the upper beams, here are a collection of links for you to review.

It seems to have received the seal of approval from maestros on this thread

Hycon:
Hi everyone, is anything wrong with this window style?

Also, what do you think about a design like this?

Thank you in advance!

Some of those windows might be for toilets or to add more illumination to a place over there.
Like the one we did here

Our solar street lights... Lighting up a street around awka..


Some still available

Good afternoon my people. Happy Sunday to everyone. Got information that Nigerchin will be reviewing their price on 5th of December.
There would be increase again. Alot of people benefitted from the 11th hour sales before the new price increase. If you need cable or your project is getting towards the cabling stage , I will advice you to buy now. December 5th new price is coming out.

Below is the current prices of Coleman and Nigerchin.

Coleman
1.5mm 14,000
2.5mm 22900
4mm 37800
10mm 91000


Nigerchin
1.5mm 13150
2.5mm 21500
4mm 33000
10mm 87000
16mm 133000

My contacts are
Call or WhatsApp 08033643191
Sms/call 08051750560

FEGEITOK:


The standard practice is that you do 1 part cement to 3 parts coarse aggregate.

What is supposed to be varied is the sand of which you are using 1.5 parts.

So as far as I am concerned your mix ratio is fine.

I use 1 part cement to 2 parts sand to 3 parts course aggregate though.

As for your question on using 16mm for the columns and 12mm for the upper beams, here are a collection of links for you to review.

It seems to have received the seal of approval from maestros on this thread

Thanks for your time engineer

Akerewe:


Thanks for your time engineer

Engineering Enthusiast

That said it is one thing to use rebar (iron rod) it is quite another to use it properly.

See the following pictures posted by a highly respected engineer on this thread.

Not everyone does it to spec.

Note: pictures not mine, pictures copied, all rights duly respected

bixton:


If that is the only option/alternative you have, then it's okay and safe as long as your engineer understands what he intends to do.

I have done same for a client as well due to space on land.
Land/Soil was hard and I used Y16 as grade/ground beam/12"(depth of pit was 9 foot). Installed 6 column points all with use of Y16 used Y8 as stirrups at a spacing of 150mm. I used Y12 for mid section chaining after 5 blocks of septic tank. I used Y16 as septic tank/soakaway decking slab beam and Y12 for matting.
After the extension we did another chaining and subsequently did the decking of the water tank stand at the desired height.
Please pick an appropriate concrete mix for all your works.
Good luck.

Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge

gabbytabby:
Happy New Year to all the building enthusiasts on this thread. May 2019 see more learning experiences for us all.

I will be disturbing Una for some internal design ideas so I thank you in advance for your help and guidance.

In most decisions one makes in 9ja one has to factor into the cost, the present day 9ja factor.

For example if you are going to be moulding and supervising the moulding (mix ratio etc) of your blocks or you sufficiently trust your moulder then using 6 inches block for boungalow foundation might be less an issue than if you are buying blocks.

If you have to then you do the needful. Why not just use four y16 rod and be done with a column than use six y12 for example.

If you remember that you can’t do over your foundation you might choose to do all foundation with 9 inches block. A typical present day 6 inches bought block is often times not of similar strength as one used in the 60s to 80s. Often times what we all do is provide advice. The owner or builder then gets to make his/her decision and then lives with consequences of that decision shikena.

Question

bixton:



Regarding the bold from the latter part of the statement, one may not know the originators of such in Nigeria. But if a professional(individual) possess the right knowledge, technical and field experience and saddled with a client that strongly insists on such then it's up to the professional. There are limited articles online regarding the use of Y12 for single storeys but there are a whole lot of considerations.

This is not a comparison to the above.
Just like the drivers of lintel complete link chaining as against just covering the door and window openings and putting blocks on the remaining length of the wall.
The traditional rule is the use of Y12 (4 bars with Y8 as stirrups).
Other conventional methods are Y12 (3 bars), Y10(4 bars).
I think I may have seen the use of Y8(4 bars) for lintel purposes but it was a foreign steel.

Now, if any of the above is right ,one should be able to establish his/her stirrup spacing to use since all can't be the same given the loads.

Answer

Timtol:



Well said.
1. Soil test might be needed per the soil topography to know the soil bearing capacity before anything can be done and will be required at it best to get a good structural engineer.
2. The strength of blocks differs by sizes and production.
3. If you will be having a decking on the walls like the building a storey rise and you want 6inches by force, I will advice to use a good strong 9inches block for all exterior walls and all interior walls which BEAMS will pass through to the next column per each panel of the building.
6inches can be used where NO BEAM pass through either load bearing and non load bearing respectively.
4. Always try to do the needful, it might take time and cost alot but you won't regret it for once when it's well handled and done by a professional hand (Sound Architect/Structural engineer).

One of my clients once want us to reduce standard cos it's seem high for but we persist we can't bend the Unrivaled Quality, the client might choose to hold on then at worse term scenario.


It's a quack engineer or Architect that will tell u to use 12mm rods for storey rise.
Y16 might be recommended per what you wanna raise and Y20 are sometimes needed in beams per the design.

I can recommend Y12 rods for bungalow without Pent, if wealthy enough buy TMT and if you want less but good ones then go for the best local irons which I know to be LCI.


Good morning and Happy last Monday in year 2018.
Happy New year in advance

Quoted for reference purposes

FEGEITOK:


Engineering Enthusiast

That said it is one thing to use rebar (iron rod) it is quite another to use it properly.

See the following pictures posted by a highly respected engineer on this thread.

Not everyone does it to spec.

Note: pictures not mine, pictures copied, all rights duly respected

if we were to even go correctly by standards those links were not properly hooked, the links placed incorrectly, only 4bars are actively resisting the compressive force acting on the column. Well it is a non Engineered construction so it can pass

dangoteinlaw:
if we were to even go correctly by standards those links were not properly hooked, the links placed incorrectly, only 4bars are actively resisting the compressive force acting on the column. Well it is a non Engineered construction so it can pass

Thanks for your elucidation.


Please show samples of those done correctly versus those done incorrectly.

You could use the same picture or a different picture or set of pictures.


if you don't mind.

FEGEITOK:


Engineering Enthusiast

That said it is one thing to use rebar (iron rod) it is quite another to use it properly.

See the following pictures posted by a highly respected engineer on this thread.

Not everyone does it to spec.

Note: pictures not mine, pictures copied, all rights duly respected

I saw the pictures but couldn't figure out the difference between the 2 stirrups and the columns

sonnie10:

I believe you are talking about Vim (not film) made by PZ. It’s available in most supermarkets.
I would be surprised if that would work because the stain doesn’t look like dirt but chemical corrosion.

that's chemical corrosion. The chemical used to clean the tiles damaged the railings

michlins:
that's chemical corrosion. The chemical used to clean the tiles damaged the railings

I have been warned about those tiles cleaning chemicals. If they are that corrosive, is it not possible that it could also have health implications?

FEGEITOK:


Thanks for your elucidation.


Please show samples of those done correctly versus those done incorrectly.

You could use the same picture or a different picture or set of pictures.


if you don't mind.

that's for the Engineer on record sir.in any project an engineering drawing has to be produced and the correct detailing is included in the fabrication detailing. Building "A" detailing is different from building "B" sir.

It is unprofessional to be dropping invalidated screenshots picked out from Google when a structure carrying lives is involved. How many times have registered and qualified Engineers like mcgray done that here on nairaland, it is unprofessional. Thanks sir

FEGEITOK:


I have been warned about those tiles cleaning chemicals. If they are that corrosive, is it not possible that it could also have health implications?

I don't know about the health implications but those chemicals are toxic on anything metal. Most of post cleaning chemicals are not properly mixed or most likely not handled by professionals

Spray it sir! They didn’t use that chemical professionally. They should have covered the pipes with paper or nylon. CO4 is too strong . Just look for a good paint (silver) & gold

Twostep:
Good afternoon House, I had a terrible experience with my tiler. Contracted him to clean the floor tiles as he says there’s a chemical they use that will give a fine finish.

After job done I noticed the railings were affected and looks rusted due to the effect if the chemical.

Please how can I correct this to the bearest minimum ?

I wish I just went with soap and water

WhiteTopaz:
I’ve gained so much since I started following this thread. Big thanks to everyone.

Is there anyway to get the exact coordinates from a survey plan which can be searched on google maps?

Yes

dangoteinlaw:
that's for the Engineer on record sir.in any project an engineering drawing has to be produced and the correct detailing is included in the fabrication detailing. Building "A" detailing is different from building "B" sir.

It is unprofessional to be dropping invalidated screenshots picked out from Google when a structure carrying lives is involved. How many times have registered and qualified Engineers like mcgray done that here on nairaland, it is unprofessional. Thanks sir

If the facts at my disposal are correct, then the pictures which I posted were initially posted by a COREN registered engineer.

It would seem that you have an issue with that.

That's OK.

Different strokes for different folks.

But this thread is not just for engineers, its for anyone interested in building and construction.

And from what I have seen online, sharing ones knowledge and depth of experience online can and does make a difference.

Over time one can build a rabidly loyal following, become an authority and is even good for the pocket.

It appears this was one such opportunity that someone missed.

I know at least 2 people who got equipment to test for free so they could write reviews for doing so.

I personally benefited when a US based company contacted me for the same purpose, out of the blues, and shipped samples to me FOC.

Kvngfrosh:
Good evening everyone
There’s an issue at hand that I need different you peoples opinion/advice on.
I had an issue with my landlord so I’m to vacate my current apartment before Jan ending.
I’ve started searching for apartments but the rent/price is too much 750k for a 3 bedroom apartment per year. I just can’t imagine giving that amount of money to any landlord per year.
So here’s what I need you guys advice on, is it possible to me to buy just a unit of 3 bedroom apartment here in Lagos ? Somewhere on the mainland that I can easily access ikeja like Iyana Ipaja, Egbeda and under 8m ?
I need everyone’s advice on this thanks.
Edited

3 bedroom for a first-time home ownership in Lagos might be unrealistic.
You would need to access a Mortgage to successfully acquire a 1 or 2 bedroom in a decent area of Lagos.
Your N8m will only be useful for paying your Loan contribution and other incidentals in the process.
Hope this helps.

rotecch77:


Go to where they sold kitchen pot ask them you need “ film” used to wash back of stained pot, it’s a white dry substance sold around N200 per one, buy as many as you can.
Apply it into sponge and wash the stainless, it will clear off.
Then you can buy liquid stainless cleaner to shine it. With N2000 all your stainless will look like new one
That is all.

Please can you post a pix of this liquid stainless cleaner........

WhiteTopaz:

Please I need help with this question.

I chased this down a few years ago. It's almost like a closed shop of trade secrets.

There are many websites that help you convert geodetic datums (which Surveyors use) to lat/lon coordinates. I found out that Nigerian surveyors use the specific Minna datum (happy to be corrected!) and this link I ended up with, should do what you want.

https://epsg.io/transform#s_srs=26332&t_srs=4326&x=326432.0800000&y=1018652.7100000

You enter the input coordinates on one side and it shows the lat/lon coordinates on the other side. Even more useful, it can show you the location on a map.

Hope it helps.

jabolo:


I chased this down a few years ago. It's almost like a closed shop of trade secrets.

There are many websites that help you convert geodetic datums (which Surveyors use) to lat/lon coordinates. I found out that Nigerian surveyors use the specific Minna datum (happy to be corrected!) and this link I ended up with, should do what you want.

https://epsg.io/transform#s_srs=26332&t_srs=4326&x=326432.0800000&y=1018652.7100000

You enter the input coordinates on one side and it shows the lat/lon coordinates on the other side. Even more useful, it can show you the location on a map.

Hope it helps.

For Future reference