isangjohnson:

Selina representing Shenzhen New Deriy does NOT sell grade A cells. If you doubt, then let her give you the manufacture test report from Eve and let's look at it and confirm.
I don't know about others

selina sells all types and grade of cells, so depending on the Grade u ordered from her. there are GRADE A+, GRADE A, GRADE A-

Valto:
selina sells all types and grade of cells, so depending on the Grade u ordered from her. there are GRADE A+, GRADE A, GRADE A-

VALTO, you and I know the truth,
I may not like to go deeply into it.

Valto:
sorry for your bad experience, but wrong assumption bro. people still use brand new grade A cells to couple, i order cells from reputable Chinese suppliers (docan,shenzhen starmax, shenzhen xuba and shenzhen new deriy) most of my cells have capacity test performed on them, and they are all above capacity with very high cycles and authentic QR code. i use the best Bluetooth bms, pure copper battery terminals, thick copper 10mm, 16mm,25mm,35mm wires depending on battery capacity.
Premium lithium battery packs are pricey, but better soup na money kill am!
Never will u open up my pack and see low grade crap cells

Val! The bloated and bad cells I got was from you but I didn't want to make a fuss about it because from the unset I knew that's what I will get from a naija vendor and I have since accepted my cells and moved on. Let's leave it at that as am no keyboard warrior to drag this further.

dollarnaira:


So na bc ur experience bad mean say "naija sellers" are bad. Most ppu duped under lithium are those with low knowledge on the product purchased. Most ppu need to understand basic knowledge on batteries lithium or acid. This knowledge will make you ask sensitive questions b4 making purchase.

This is the typical example of the pros on the group who knows nothing about ESS but are quick to jump in on any topic with their naivety claiming to be professionals.

I am fully diy off grid on both my home and farm with a combine solar system of 14KW pv, 60KW ESS and 20KW inverting power, if with this setup you still think I have little knowledge about RES then you need a phycologist.
I had no choice but to get cells from Val due to the logistics delay and my immediate needs to start my RES journey. I made it know to him after receiving the cells that they weren't good cells and most were bloated.
I don't have any issues with Val because the quality of the cells were anticipated and I have been dealing with it ever since.

temi4fash:


Can you expanciate on this?

from your calculations, the CC cannot be used for the 2 arrays right

this is y i brought this to the elders in d house. I b tital novice. I can as well fo aheaa n use it cos i kno max i can see is 6A which will not hurn my inv as max it can take is 15A

Justice629:


This is the typical example of the pros on the group who knows nothing about ESS but are quick to jump in on any topic with their naivety claiming to be professionals.

I am fully diy off grid on both my home and farm with a combine solar system of 14KW pv, 60KW ESS and 20KW inverting power, if with this setup you still think I have little knowledge about RES then you need a phycologist.
I had no choice but to get cells from Val due to the logistics delay and my immediate needs to start my RES journey. I made it know to him after receiving the cells that they weren't good cells and most were bloated.
I don't have any issues with Val because the quality of the cells were anticipated and I have been dealing with it ever since.

You have a big problem understanding English. If you like run 20millionKW na ur palava. Like I said above, you have huge problem understanding simple sentence in English. Read in between lines but slowly this time.

durodee:
Hmmm. Sorotec. I have a 5.5kw unit (bought late last year) acting up. Displaying error 32. Manual says it's a communication failure between inverter and remote display. It will not connect to battery and when switched on by solar imput, will temporary display no battery mode before bringing out the error.
I had to put back my backup 5kw Gennex while waiting for the resolution.
My battery is 12kwh LiFePo4 and connected to the battery through positive and negative power cables only.

I have finally resolved never ever to buy any inverter named by or produced by SOROTEC again! It is truly SORROW TEC(HNOLOGY)! Anytime I think of the inverter I cannot think of a SINGLE good thing about it. it is that subpar! First, the finish is far below the name.
I strongly believe also that the self-consumption is higher than similarly sized inverters. I was not able to measure this though.
The fan is noisy and the inverter failed woefully where Gennex and MUST inverters of similar capacity have thrived. Despite my misgivings, I paid 120k for the useless inverter to be repaired a few months back. I then relocated it for domestic use in my weekend house where I am completely off grid. I tend to visit the place every fortnight ( spending the weekend only) and put a total load of a small fridge, a 22-inch tv and six light bulbs on it. I made sure it was only INVERTING, no other task. Yet, the same error has resurfaced. I am not sure the bloody thing has worked for a total of 30 days before showing its true colours again!!!

By the way, I live alone there before someone will say it was mis-used behind my back!

bassdow:


this ya question sounds some how Oooo

if I get you right, you want to know if 1 chargeControler could be connected to more than 1 set of batteries.


I do this already with some of my arrays, I have 5 solar arrays by the way.
but I wouldn't suggest doing this for a client. You have to setUp a switch (more like a changeOver) and it could be possible forgeting something.

Yes to the bolded.

It is for myself

Can you provide a picture/drawing of how you set it up?

Please recommend a suitably rated SPD for me for a 3kW inverter thank you

Please do anyone have a user experience or review on this brand of inverter?

durodee:


I have finally resolved never ever to buy any inverter named by or produced by SOROTEC again! It is truly SORROW TEC(HNOLOGY)

Sorry about your predicament, but I couldn't help but laugh out loud at the Sorrow Technology name. The truth is I've seen more DEAD Sorotec than working ones. I thought it's just a coincidence as I haven't personally used one.

bbally:
Please do anyone have a user experience or review on this brand of inverter?

I know their solar floodlight are not too bad, can't really say if it's the same with their inverter.

mank1234:


When you tell them your price they will run to the other person. And when the real experience of poor quality comes after the sweetness of low price, they will come there to generalize.

oga don't mind them, they get what they pay for

Valto:
selina sells all types and grade of cells, so depending on the Grade u ordered from her. there are GRADE A+, GRADE A, GRADE A-

I am sorry but that is BS. I am not a pro but in my quest to build a solar system I have had to watch a lot of YouTube videos, read a lot of solar forums and followed this section on Nairaland as it is clear there is a lot of cowboys, quackery, ignorance, misinformation and “anyhowness” in the Nigerian solar space, this is even before those who just want your money and will tell you anything to get it. I have been to a well known solar installer with its own OEM branded axpert products that couldn’t tell me the brand of lifepo4 cells in the lithium batteries they sell.

Cells are either Certified Automotive grade or they are rejected cells. Any rejected cell is a grade B cell. Once you are dealing with rejected cells (which could be rejected for a number of reasons) you are on your own. They may be cells good enough for home storage but not for the automotive demands or they may be outright bad cells.

1. QR code means nothing as they are faked
2. Eve started stamping their Rejected cells with “B” grade on the QR code but Chinese resellers have found a way to “remove” the “B” stamp. B does not mean a cell is bad, however the problem with B is that it can be good or it can be bad. Most A cells on the market are B cells, so they could be good or they could be bad.
3. That a cell tests ok for capacity does not mean it is a good cell. Many cells will test ok for capacity but will drop voltage under load. Just like a bad lead acid battery, it depends on the load on it. I will post a video below highlighting this.
4. Your battery is only as good as the worst cell in your pack. If there is one bad cell it will bring the whole battery down.
5. There is nothing wrong with the better “B” grade cells for ESS (which people falsely call A- or outrightly sell as “A” but you need the r
Test reports so you know what you are dealing with or test them individually and match them for voltage, capacity and internal resistance. Otherwise the cells start to deviate as you charge aand discharge due to different internal resistances of the cells and before you know it the individual cell voltages go out of whack, your BMS is shutting off charging or discharging because one cell is hitting low or high cut off voltage before the others and you are not getting the available capacity you have despite having the capacity. Cells with different internal resistance will discharge at different rates to each other. So you see it is not just about putting cells together with the same capacity. We need to know what the internal resistance of the cells put together are…hence the need for matching.
6. What you need for any cell is the manufacturers test report. Do not buy a cell from anyone without a manufacturers test report. You need that to match the cells in a pack. QR code even if legit is meaningless on It’s own. what you need to assemble a battery is consistency/matching of the cells so the cells charge and discharge in unison.
7. When you see a battery with a recommended continuous charge/discharge rate of less than .5c it is a sign the battery contains poor grade cells. The popular lithium batteries beginning with “F” is an example of this. If you check the specs of reputable batteries like pylontech or BYD. You will see they are .5c continuous. There is a reason they cost more. Also a sign of poor grade cells is when a battery has its cut off voltages limited in the BMS or you are restricted to 80% capacity to keep the cells in the flat range where the voltages will not diverge due to inconsistent cells.
8. Again the overwhelming majority of these batteries are not certified grade A but some can be used so long as they are matched for capacity and internal resistance and for peace of mind you need the manufacturers test report. QR code means nothing when putting cells together. I was watching a YouTube video only yesterday of a guy in the US who actually makes and sells batteries and he says even from his reliable Chinese cell supplier, sometimes 4 out of 16 cells will be bad cells and if you are buying from these suppliers buy 20 if you need 16. Unfortunately I can’t find the video.
9. If a cell is not certified automotive grade, it is a “B” cell. If it is certified automotive grade, it will have a manufacturers test report. There are good “B” cell, many reputable battery manufacturers assemble good reliable batteries with “b” cells after carefully matching them and many resellers would the world a lot of good if they just say these are good “b” cells with the matching documentation and test reports. The minute someone is telling me a cell is “A” grade A- or whatever and has no test report, he is either ignorant or lying to me. Every cell whether A or B has a test report. If it has no test report you have to ask why is your reseller not willing to show you the test report. Assume any cell without a test report is a B cell because if you have a true “a” grade cell you won’t need to ask before you are shown.


Videos below are from sunfunkits in the US.

Load (not capacity) testing videos


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKxwMW900Jw?si=rlJoETJ9N8k4ow2_


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD-av4cTL-Q?si=FJgkfAr5fKrR6zSb

The picture below is an example of what the test results of a battery with matched cells should look like.

JUO:
oga don't mind them, they get what they pay for

have met those who spent more, but got way less

bbally:
Please do anyone have a user experience or review on this brand of inverter?

why not just save yourself the stress, and go with recognized brands and maybe models ?

The name sef sounds chinese and some of these chinese products are owned by Nigerians. which one be "SMS" again.

na so one potential client go buy battery named "Lithium" Tubular Battery , another wan dey named "Lithion" .

Just stick with known quality brands, and choose from their models that have proven to be reliable.

FEGEITOK:


Yes to the bolded.

It is for myself

Can you provide a picture/drawing of how you set it up?

Bros sorry for late response. sometimes work dey hold person.

anyway what I did is this. What you want to do is not possible to best of my knowledge except I no get you.

The solar Panel + charge Controller could either be charging Battery Bank B or Battery Bank C at a time. For you to use same Solar Panel + ChargeController setUp to charge Battery Bank B and Battery Bank C means you have to charge them turn by turn.

What I did to avoid constantly changing cables was to do what we do to NEPA vs generator changeOver - In your own case, connect the negative wire of the battery bank B , battery bank C , to the negative cable of the solarChargeController.
Now get a 2-way switch (or use that changeOver switch used in changing over from NEPA to Generator and viceVersa) , connect positive (+ve) cable of battery bank B to one end of the switch, battery bank C to the other end of the switch, then connect the positive (+ve) cable of the solarChargeController to the middle cable of the switch.

That way, you get to flip the switch Left or Right (just like you change over NEPA to Gen) and it would charge the battery banks in turns.

casualobserver:


I am sorry but that is BS. I am not a pro but in my quest to build a solar system I have had to watch a lot of YouTube videos, read a lot of solar forums and followed this section on Nairaland as it is clear there is a lot of cowboys, quackery, ignorance, misinformation and “anyhowness” in the Nigerian solar space, this is even before those who just want your money and will tell you anything to get it. I have been to a well known solar installer with its own OEM branded axpert products that couldn’t tell me the brand of lifepo4 cells in the lithium batteries they sell.

Cells are either Certified Automotive grade or they are rejected cells. Any rejected cell is a grade B cell. Once you are dealing with rejected cells (which could be rejected for a number of reasons) you are on your own. They may be cells good enough for home storage but not for the automotive demands or they may be outright bad cells.

1. QR code means nothing as they are faked
2. Eve started stamping their Rejected cells with “B” grade on the QR code but Chinese resellers have found a way to “remove” the “B” stamp. B does not mean a cell is bad, however the problem with B is that it can be good or it can be bad. Most A cells on the market are B cells, so they could be good or they could be bad.
3. That a cell tests ok for capacity does not mean it is a good cell. Many cells will test ok for capacity but will drop voltage under load. Just like a bad lead acid battery, it depends on the load on it. I will post a video below highlighting this.
4. Your battery is only as good as the worst cell in your pack. If there is one bad cell it will bring the whole battery down.
5. There is nothing wrong with the better “B” grade cells for ESS (which people falsely call A- or outrightly sell as “A” but you have to test them individually and match them for voltage, capacity and internal resistance. Otherwise the cells start to deviate as you charge aand discharge due to different internal resistances of the cells and before you know it the individual cell voltages go out of whack, your BMS is shutting off charging or discharging because one cell is hitting low or high cut off voltage before the others and you are not getting the available capacity you have despite having the capacity. Cells with different internal resistance will discharge at different rates to each other. So you see it is not just about putting cells together with the same capacity. We need to know what the internal resistance of the cells put together are…hence the need for matching.
6. What you need for any cell is the manufacturers test report. Do not buy a cell from anyone without a manufacturers test report. You need that to match the cells in a pack. QR code even if legit is meaningless on It’s own. what you need to assemble a battery is consistency/matching of the cells so the cells charge and discharge in unison.
7. When you see a battery with a recommended continuous charge/discharge rate of less than .5c it is a sign the battery contains poor grade cells. The popular lithium batteries beginning with “F” is an example of this. If you check the specs of reputable batteries like pylontech or BYD. You will see they are .5c continuous. There is a reason they cost more. Also a sign of poor grade cells is when a battery has its cut off voltages limited in the BMS or you are restricted to 80% capacity to keep the cells in the flat range where the voltages will not diverge due to inconsistent cells.
8. Again the overwhelming majority of these batteries are not certified grade A but some can be used so long as they are matched for capacity and internal resistance and for peace of mind you need the manufacturers test report. QR code means nothing when putting cells together. I was watching a YouTube video only yesterday of a guy in the US who actually makes and sells batteries and he says even from his reliable Chinese cell supplier, sometimes 4 out of 16 cells will be bad cells and if you are buying from these suppliers buy 20 if you need 16. Unfortunately I can’t find the video.
9. If a cell is not certified automotive grade, it is a “B” cell. If it is certified automotive grade, it will have a manufacturers test report. There are good “B” cell, many reputable battery manufacturers assemble good reliable batteries with “b” cells after carefully matching them and many resellers would the world a lot of good if they just say these are good “b” cells with the matching documentation and test reports. The minute someone is telling me a cell is “A” grade A- or whatever and has no test report, he is either ignorant or lying to me.


Videos below are from sunfunkits in the US.

Load (not capacity) testing videos


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKxwMW900Jw?si=rlJoETJ9N8k4ow2_


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD-av4cTL-Q?si=FJgkfAr5fKrR6zSb

The picture below is an example of what the test results of a battery with matched cells should look like.

Bros, you had time for these explanations.....
Just as I earlier said, I didn't want us to go deeply into the fraudulent activities of most Chinese lifepo4 battery Vendors.
Our guys selling lifepo4 batteries here should be mindful of the information they drop here as most of us are well informed.

Do you want a Rugged UPS that will meet your Power Needs, Vertiv UPS is the solution you need. We have offices in Lagos and Abuja &We do Nationwide Delivery. You can Reach us on 08066332919

isangjohnson:

Bros, you had time for these explanations.....
Just as I earlier said, I didn't want us to go deeply into the fraudulent activities of most Chinese lifepo4 battery Vendors.
Our guys selling lifepo4 batteries here should be mindful of the information they drop here as most of us are well informed.

So most Nigerians are same as naija politicians abi?

We should apologize to Felicity and Martins that sells grade B cells.

I think one edge @Valto has is that his batteries packs are stated capacity!

TechGeek777:


So most Nigerians are same as naija politicians abi?

We should apologize to Felicity and Martins that sells grade B cells.

I think one edge @Valto has is that his batteries packs are stated capacity!

From my understanding Felicity has 3 grades of batteries. LPBA, LPBF and LPBR. The best cells go into their LPBA batteries. I assume cost is the reason you don’t see them in Nigeria.. LPBF are definitely grade B (what quality grade B I don’t know as reviews, tear downs on them are scanty and LPBR are the lowest of the low.

I suspect all Felicity cells are grade B as none of them including The LPBA has a recommended continuous discharge rate of .5c which is usually an indicator of the quality of cells though I am not sure like I said available info on Felicity is scanty.

Like I said earlier, many of the cheaper battery manufacturers use grade B cells. However the difference between a large battery manufacturer and an individual is that they purchase thousands of cells and can find 4, 8, or 16 with similar matching characteristics and put them together in a battery that will work ok. As an individual if you purchase 16 cells for a 48v battery they all must match.

That a cell delivers the rated capacity is good but capacity is meaningless unless you know the capacity and internal resistance of the other cells you want to put together in a pack. if 2 cells have the same capacity and markedly different resistance, once you put them together, they will not discharge and charge at the same rate, so even though they both have the same capacities on paper, you will not get the full capacity of your battery despite both measuring full capacity individually. Also you clearly do not understand what I said about load. Having capacity does not mean a battery can handle load....maybe you did not watch the video.

When my VRLA batteries died, they would still power my chargers, internet router, one or 2 lights, maybe even a fan at low setting etc for the whole day but put on the TV or fridge and the battery will drop voltage and the inverter will shut down immediately. So also you can as an example run 500w load on a new 5kw Lipefo4 battery or pack with bad cells that has been "tested for capacity" and you think your cells are ok. 500w even 1Kw on a5kw lithium battery is nothing. 1kw on a 5kw battery is just .2c, 500w is just .1c, whereas a good lithium cell should be able to handle 1c without problem and .5c continous. Most people dont put that sort of loads on their battery that's why you can have bad cells/batteries that test for capacity and you wont know youve been sold weak cells. Most cheap battery manufacturers exploit this fact that most people do not put those sorts of loads on their batteries which is why I said the continous discharge rate of a lithium battery is an indication of the type of cells in that battery. Below .5c continous in the spec sheet is a red flag.

I am not against grade B either cells or batteries, they serve a purpose for every pocket but people are entitled to know what they are getting. A lot of products get a bad reputation because people are mis-sold products. Lead batteries got a bad rap because people undersized their battery bank. I always say I ran my Lead acid batteries for 7 years before they gave up. Tubular is gaining a bad rap primarily because most inverters we use do not compensate for temperature and overcharge them causing them to regularly boil and spill acid. Not to talk of the way Nigerian installers install tubular batteries indoors and right under inverters with the potential for sparks and hydrogen gas. I remember going to Luminous office and one of their staff telling me they are safe to install indoors despite their Indian website clearly stating they should not be installed indoors. Similarly lithium will get a bad rap if people are getting g batteries and cells that are not what they think they are.

casualobserver:

4. Your battery is only as good as the worst cell in your pack. If there is one bad cell it will bring the whole battery down.

I usually liken batteries in series to a chain links that made up a chain, if a particular link is weak, the chain is now as strong as that weakest link.

Eg I remembered when one of the cells in my 16s 48v ebike'$ battery got lower than others, this lead to the bms cutting off supply to the motor when I'm riding it. This is super annoying, thankfully my BMS has Bluetooth so it was easy to fish out the rogue cell and charge it separately and we are good to go again. Battery pack is still performing wonderfully till date.

Justice629:
@bassdow
I gbadu your inputs here well well but as I no be keyboard warrior I say make I maintain for corner the look many of them do called solar pros here.
Little piece of advice- when you ready to go lithium no make mistake of buying from naija vendors because must times na worst grade cells them dey buy from China, my own experience still the pepper me for body now.

Make una dey drop review

mctfopt:


I usually liken batteries in series to a chain links that made up a chain, if a particular link is weak, the chain is now as strong as that weakest link.

Eg I remembered when one of the cells in my 16s 48v ebike'$ battery got lower than others, this lead to the bms cutting off supply to the motor when I'm riding it. This is super annoying, thankfully my BMS has Bluetooth so it was easy to fish out the rogue cell and charge it separately and we are good to go again. Battery pack is still performing wonderfully till date.

Yep it’s another reason why I ruled out the “F” batteries. The inability to monitor individual cells easily ( Bluetooth/onboard display) especially on a battery with a below .5c charge/discharge rating (which as I said is a clear indication they are not just grade B cells but poor quality grade B) and would start to deviate from each other as they age and degrade in a non uniform manner, means is not a long term option and won’t deliver the 10 yr promise of lithium without headaches and regular maintenance.

There was a video where some alibababa sourced so called “grade A” cells in a battery pack were tested after 75 cycles and 2 yrs and the 280ah cells has lost capacity at different rates, the poorest having 255ah while others tested between 259 and 270ah. While degradation is normal, because of that 255ah cell, the most he could get out of the entire pack after 75 cycles was 255ah. Plus our “f” battery cells are welded so you can’t just take out a poor performing cell and replace.

Ability to view Individual Cell status is a must no matter the quality of the cells but especially with grade B.

isangjohnson:

Bros, you had time for these explanations.....
Just as I earlier said, I didn't want us to go deeply into the fraudulent activities of most Chinese lifepo4 battery Vendors.
Our guys selling lifepo4 batteries here should be mindful of the information they drop here as most of us are well informed.

Over informed, when we patronise them , it doesn't mean we don't know what's up, we do it sometimes because of waiting time and exchange rate wahala

casualobserver:


I am sorry but that is BS. I am not a pro but in my quest to build a solar system I have had to watch a lot of YouTube videos, read a lot of solar forums and followed this section on Nairaland as it is clear there is a lot of cowboys, quackery, ignorance, misinformation and “anyhowness” in the Nigerian solar space, this is even before those who just want your money and will tell you anything to get it. I have been to a well known solar installer with its own OEM branded axpert products that couldn’t tell me the brand of lifepo4 cells in the lithium batteries they sell.

Cells are either Certified Automotive grade or they are rejected cells. Any rejected cell is a grade B cell. Once you are dealing with rejected cells (which could be rejected for a number of reasons) you are on your own. They may be cells good enough for home storage but not for the automotive demands or they may be outright bad cells.

1. QR code means nothing as they are faked
2. Eve started stamping their Rejected cells with “B” grade on the QR code but Chinese resellers have found a way to “remove” the “B” stamp. B does not mean a cell is bad, however the problem with B is that it can be good or it can be bad. Most A cells on the market are B cells, so they could be good or they could be bad.
3. That a cell tests ok for capacity does not mean it is a good cell. Many cells will test ok for capacity but will drop voltage under load. Just like a bad lead acid battery, it depends on the load on it. I will post a video below highlighting this.
4. Your battery is only as good as the worst cell in your pack. If there is one bad cell it will bring the whole battery down.
5. There is nothing wrong with the better “B” grade cells for ESS (which people falsely call A- or outrightly sell as “A” but you need the r
Test reports so you know what you are dealing with or test them individually and match them for voltage, capacity and internal resistance. Otherwise the cells start to deviate as you charge aand discharge due to different internal resistances of the cells and before you know it the individual cell voltages go out of whack, your BMS is shutting off charging or discharging because one cell is hitting low or high cut off voltage before the others and you are not getting the available capacity you have despite having the capacity. Cells with different internal resistance will discharge at different rates to each other. So you see it is not just about putting cells together with the same capacity. We need to know what the internal resistance of the cells put together are…hence the need for matching.
6. What you need for any cell is the manufacturers test report. Do not buy a cell from anyone without a manufacturers test report. You need that to match the cells in a pack. QR code even if legit is meaningless on It’s own. what you need to assemble a battery is consistency/matching of the cells so the cells charge and discharge in unison.
7. When you see a battery with a recommended continuous charge/discharge rate of less than .5c it is a sign the battery contains poor grade cells. The popular lithium batteries beginning with “F” is an example of this. If you check the specs of reputable batteries like pylontech or BYD. You will see they are .5c continuous. There is a reason they cost more. Also a sign of poor grade cells is when a battery has its cut off voltages limited in the BMS or you are restricted to 80% capacity to keep the cells in the flat range where the voltages will not diverge due to inconsistent cells.
8. Again the overwhelming majority of these batteries are not certified grade A but some can be used so long as they are matched for capacity and internal resistance and for peace of mind you need the manufacturers test report. QR code means nothing when putting cells together. I was watching a YouTube video only yesterday of a guy in the US who actually makes and sells batteries and he says even from his reliable Chinese cell supplier, sometimes 4 out of 16 cells will be bad cells and if you are buying from these suppliers buy 20 if you need 16. Unfortunately I can’t find the video.
9. If a cell is not certified automotive grade, it is a “B” cell. If it is certified automotive grade, it will have a manufacturers test report. There are good “B” cell, many reputable battery manufacturers assemble good reliable batteries with “b” cells after carefully matching them and many resellers would the world a lot of good if they just say these are good “b” cells with the matching documentation and test reports. The minute someone is telling me a cell is “A” grade A- or whatever and has no test report, he is either ignorant or lying to me. Every cell whether A or B has a test report. If it has no test report you have to ask why is your reseller not willing to show you the test report. Assume any cell without a test report is a B cell because if you have a true “a” grade cell you won’t need to ask before you are shown.


Videos below are from sunfunkits in the US.

Load (not capacity) testing videos


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKxwMW900Jw?si=rlJoETJ9N8k4ow2_


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD-av4cTL-Q?si=FJgkfAr5fKrR6zSb

The picture below is an example of what the test results of a battery with matched cells should look like.

we spoken, I hope you will recommend our battery? Good battery is not cheap

I happy people are speaking up and saying the truth. It is not easy for an average Nigerian at this moment to get top grade quality batteries.
But like someone suggested do your research properly before you manage wetin dey our surrounding.

Don't just jump on the bandwagon because everyone says so. In the sense you manage a small bank because it lithium you start forming power holding company.
The basic rule about batteries whether lithium of tubular like someone said earlier, size is important. A big bank assists a very long way in longevity,also having a very robust solar array, better more than one array. This period in Nigeria now does not permit for any one to get it wrong . Money hard. Sorry to those that got burnt, it should serve has a warning to do due diligence and be patient before you buy,like I said earlier check out YouTube videos it always pays to go bigger both solar and battery bank....

JUO:
we spoken, I hope you will recommend our battery? Good battery is not cheap

We all know that very few people will be able to afford EV grade cells.
As many of us are dealing with non Ev grade cells generally known as grade B, we should try to adjust our marketing terms to reflect what we sell.
I salute Amy Wan, Gloria Basen, Cassie Wang and few others for their marketing strategies but Selina Li must step up her game. Telling people like us who are very inquisitive that Eve has grade A, grade A+, grade A-, grade with letter B QR Code and grade without letter B QR Code is not a good marketing strategy.

Explanation 101
Volume 1

FEGEITOK:


When the guy you quoted went full throttle, I was almost tempted to disclose that I once into networking. Until I discovered that true money does not lie in that part of IT and changed gears and thank God I did.

I know another guy who has become a billionaire from the switch. Hopefully, I will get there someday.

Imo, the switch for a network engineer would be to cyber security. The network background is a huge advantage. Meanwhile, what did you switch to?

bassdow:



"I just read a couple of comments where people are asking for where to switch to or concentrate on because it makes you more money."

People ask me same almost regularly. They forget no matter what, the basics, background, and interest, are much more important than that money. That money would never come if you not good at what you do. You need be good enough to get more jobs, so as to be opportuned to solve more problems, which fetches that money you seek.

if You're good enough, you might never have the time to spend THAT money.

As for those things you say are depreciated, I made suggestions that could be implemented by just anyOne without spending money on extra unnecessary hardware, or skills.

You made mention of Covid-19 and how people are manDated to work reMotely, abeg when I make comments, I try to stay TRUE to realities, especially in our enviroment (Nigeria).
1. How many companies / businesses allow people work reMotely here in Nigeria ?
2. inFact, how many businesses are built to benefit from reMote working ?
3. How much of Jumia , Konga, etc workForce work from home ?
4. How much of MTN, Airtel, 9Mobile, Glo etc callCenter / contactCenter workForce, work from home ?
5. what about small businesses, which can't afford the cost of IT department, not even outSourced ones ?

The things I wrote, with a Modem Router (not even a dedicated router) sold by Nigerian ISPs, one could achieve some of them.

I only responded along the lines of SAVING DATA SUBSCRIPTIONS so you don't buy 20GB data, which should last 1-month, but it FINISHES within 2-weekks, probably bbecause your staff uses over 70% of them to download Vidoes.

OR

Your staff spending more of the office hours, on online activites, not beneficial to your business.

Just so we ain't mistaken, I'm not into netWorking abeg

Be calming down, his response was apt, I think you misunderstood him. Though I agree with some points you made, the work environment in Nigeria isn't optimized for remote staffing. Even industries that could benefit from it directly aren't doing so, among other things, there's this fear that staff wouldn't concentrate on work if they were to work remotely. Regarding monitoring, there are solutions for all, Hubstaff is a relatively cheap but efficient example for remote and even onsite onscreen monitoring, but it's mostly used for remote staff.