Confused! But this client claim the Architect that produce the drwg,whom stated 6' block is the same guy that quoted for 9' block. Can we conclude that the guy made mistake in d drwg and put things right for practical purpose. Now, the new 'contractor' with due respect, do u recommend 6' block for foundation!

segcy.moor:
Confused! But this client claim the Architect that produce the drwg,whom stated 6' block is the same guy that quoted for 9' block. Can we conclude that the guy made mistake in d drwg and put things right for practical purpose. Now, the new 'contractor' with due respect, do u recommend 6' block for foundation!

Sir, the ARCON stamped drawing is fraught with lot of errors. The only thing we can do here is to sit down with the client to discuss the challenges and make amends. We have two options here

1. Fill the 6" block with concrete
2. Double the wall

We need to build walls that can resist the lateral (horizontal) forces on the house due to ground shift. It isn't too late to right the wrong.

....as it stand now filling with concrete in the good and only option. Well done!

brabus:

Sir, the ARCON stamped drawing is fraught with lot of errors. The only thing we can do here is to sit down with the client to discuss the challenges and make amends. We have two options here

1. Fill the 6" block with concrete
2. Double the wall

We need to build walls that can resist the lateral (horizontal) forces on the house due to ground shift. It isn't too late to right the wrong.

Doubling the block is not an option as the pillar rods are made to fit 6" blocks. Fill with watery concrete.

segcy.moor:
Confused! But this client claim the Architect that produce the drwg,whom stated 6' block is the same guy that quoted for 9' block. Can we conclude that the guy made mistake in d drwg and put things right for practical purpose. Now, the new 'contractor' with due respect, do u recommend 6' block for foundation!

I'm really confused!
Are you saying they should use 9' blocks
So, there's some fuc.-up already

Progress Pictures

Nice point out segcy.moore, I'm loving this thread already. I for one believe the archi's quote will not differ much from brabus final costs with variations.

I'm not an industry expert but I think the client will always get a better deal by allowing different people carryout their functions. Allowing the archi to build the house would have allowed him to concceal or adjust for defects in the drawings. However, I still don't believe brabus final figure will differ from his sha, I hope to be corrected.

I stumble on this tread and it is quite interesting. I do not have any challenge with 6" block as long as it is going to be filed solid and the height is not much. But a point of correction 1. The foundation block for this type of foundation is not only resisting lateral pressure but it is partly responsible for both the live and the dead load on the ground floor, as the load on this floor is transmitted via the floor slab to the filling and the block and that is why you should use 9 inches block and if possible filled it solid as this will strengthened the foundation and resist capillary action for the foundation. Exception to this (that is where the block resist the lateral forces only) is when there is a capping beam on all the foundation blocks connected to the starter columns, in that wise the load from the slab is transmitted to the beam and to the column and therefore having nothing to do with the fdn blocks.
in other wise the use of this 6" block has reduced the columns to 150mm x 150mm as against 230mm x 230mm that is most applicable except in a case when it is designed so. now the implication of this is that the above floor may not have adequate support as columns plays a major role in structural stability. As a matter of fact many of us put attention to external column whereas the most critical column that can bring a whole house down if it fails is always somewhere unoticed in the house. Anyway at this stage it is never too late this house can be fortified. And one more thing i want to bring to our notice is that we should start building structures that can withstand seismic effect to some extent as the way our weather is going May the Lord save Nigeria. Thanks

Client should stop demanding for Block foundation. I personally dislike it with passion.

Chekitaut: Client should stop demanding for Block foundation. I personally dislike it with passion.

It is not clients that demand foundation type but the properties of the soil. When you say clients "demand" you make it sound like its some kind of dress fashion where clients can "demand" slim fit or regular size. Most clients do not know the technical implications and so are not in any position to "demand". One cannot just impose an arbitrary foundation type just because one loves it with a passion. The question we should ask is if the architectural drawing was signed off by a qualified and experienced Structural Engineer. And again if it was approved by the "Town Planning Authorities". If yes (qualified and experience) the client should not worry overtly: the work is fine. But if the client is not too sure about the integrity of the principle actors; then he should worry.

I may be wrong but I have noticed that the building professionals from the Western Parts of the country have a passion (Chekitaut et al) for Hollow Blocks. It is of small advise to use good quality solid blocks for ground floors and then maybe hollow block from first floor to reduce the load.Small consolation but it helps.

I know its controversial and without evidence or scientific basis but can this passion for hollow blocks (even for foundation) be one of the reasons there is a high level of building collapse in Lagos - Ibadan - Ogun axis? Now we talk of filling the void with slurry to stabilize the foundation. Why not kuku use solid blocks from start? The Foundation has gone up to about Three Coaches already and the possibility to fill ALL the hollow has been missed.

diordaves:
Now we talk of filling the void with slurry to stabilize the foundation. Why not kuku use solid blocks from start? The Foundation has gone up to about Three Coaches already and the possibility to fill ALL the hollow has been missed.

I am not a builder, but I agreed with this part.(see Bolded statement).
If this was my house, I would have used 9in blocks or the solid blocks;
just for a little increase in cost, it will be worth it in the end for peace of mind.
I am sure Brabus will do the best thing to get everything straight and right,
from what I have seen here, he is a good builder.

Hajji Mufutau

Aventures: Exception to this (that is where the block resist the lateral forces only) is when there is a capping beam on all the foundation blocks connected to the starter columns, in that wise the load from the slab is transmitted to the beam and to the column and therefore having nothing to do with the fdn blocks.

Option 3 - Capping Beam

Thanks Bro.

diordaves:

It is not clients that demand foundation type but the properties of the soil. When you say clients "demand" you make it sound like its some kind of dress fashion where clients can "demand" slim fit or regular size. Most clients do not know the technical implications and so are not in any position to "demand". One cannot just impose an arbitrary foundation type just because one loves it with a passion. The question we should ask is if the architectural drawing was signed off by a qualified and experienced Structural Engineer. And again if it was approved by the "Town Planning Authorities". If yes (qualified and experience) the client should not worry overtly: the work is fine. But if the client is not too sure about the integrity of the principle actors; then he should worry.

I may be wrong but I have noticed that the building professionals from the Western Parts of the country have a passion (Chekitaut et al) for Hollow Blocks. It is of small advise to use good quality solid blocks for ground floors and then maybe hollow block from first floor to reduce the load.Small consolation but it helps.

I know its controversial and without evidence or scientific basis but can this passion for hollow blocks (even for foundation) be one of the reasons there is a high level of building collapse in Lagos - Ibadan - Ogun axis? Now we talk of filling the void with slurry to stabilize the foundation. Why not kuku use solid blocks from start? The Foundation has gone up to about Three Coaches already and the possibility to fill ALL the hollow has been missed.

In my view, I think the drawings were actually lifted (copied) and the architect only modified (shrink the building size) the architectural drawings to fit the land. Otherwise, it should have been 9" block all the way.

Worse still, the Structural and M&E drawings were actually showing 3 floors when the building itself is having only 2 floors.

Just as Sir Jamesqu said, he'd (the architect) have work without the building plan to conceal the errors and there's no way we can know if he's doing it right or wrong. As per the quote, there won't be much difference but the quality of the work is what we should really think of.

_________
Granite price in PH is not smiling at all. We buy 30 ton @ N220k. Lowest price you can get.

Oga Brabus you get mind oh. How do you find PH.I do uni for there but fear of kidnap no gree me go there with all the peeps who wan really host me.

Goodluck and may the lord bless the work of your hands. Amen.

Aventures: And one more thing i want to bring to our notice is that we should start building structures that can withstand seismic effect to some extent as the way our weather is going May the Lord save Nigeria. Thanks

Bro, I doubt we'll ever have earthquakes in Nigeria, maybe storms but not earthquakes as we are not on any seimic zone...we are safe.

Jamesqu:

Bro, I doubt we'll ever have earthquakes in Nigeria, maybe storms but not earthquakes as we are not on any seimic zone...we are safe.

No where in the world is safe...Aventure thank you oooooo, even with the substandard block produce in Nigeria.

diordaves:

It is not clients that demand foundation type but the properties of the soil. When you say clients "demand" you make it sound like its some kind of dress fashion where clients can "demand" slim fit or regular size. Most clients do not know the technical implications and so are not in any position to "demand". One cannot just impose an arbitrary foundation type just because one loves it with a passion. The question we should ask is if the architectural drawing was signed off by a qualified and experienced Structural Engineer. And again if it was approved by the "Town Planning Authorities". If yes (qualified and experience) the client should not worry overtly: the work is fine. But if the client is not too sure about the integrity of the principle actors; then he should worry.

I may be wrong but I have noticed that the building professionals from the Western Parts of the country have a passion (Chekitaut et al) for Hollow Blocks. It is of small advise to use good quality solid blocks for ground floors and then maybe hollow block from first floor to reduce the load.Small consolation but it helps.

I know its controversial and without evidence or scientific basis but can this passion for hollow blocks (even for foundation) be one of the reasons there is a high level of building collapse in Lagos - Ibadan - Ogun axis? Now we talk of filling the void with slurry to stabilize the foundation. Why not kuku use solid blocks from start? The Foundation has gone up to about Three Coaches already and the possibility to fill ALL the hollow has been missed.

I have asked this question earlier on this same thread about type of founation. For area (lekki upland-with sandy soil) that is not water logged but flood proned, must I use raft foundation? Segcy moor replied that with block foundation,the building walls may be damp in such area. My next question is shouldn't placing water proof after filling the foudation before doing DPC take care of that? In this country, one just need to be prudent with money since is not easy to comeby. I will not to spend so much on raft foundation and later realised I can use blocks as well. Kindly help in shaping my thought.

lawali: I have asked this question earlier on this same thread about type of founation. For area (lekki upland-with sandy soil) that is not water logged but flood proned, must I use raft foundation? Segcy moor replied that with block foundation,the building walls may be damp in such area. My next question is shouldn't placing water proof after filling the foudation before doing DPC take care of that? In this country, one just need to be prudent with money since is not easy to comeby. I will not to spend so much on raft foundation and later realised I can use blocks as well. Kindly help in shaping my thought.

It is always advisable to engage the services of a reputably qualified professional for foundation design. It is not what one can toy with. Get it wrong and one may be in for a whole lot of grief.

Lawali; you may cut corners with aesthetic stuff but not with foundation. Get the services of a professional and take him to site and possibly do a soil test. Only then can you be sure of what type of foundation that is appropriate for your site.Foundation does not allow any cosmetic approach.

Segcy Moor made a valuable point. What you must also know is that foundation is not only about dampness to be corrected with DPC like your post suggests. Foundation main function is to spread the dead and live load of the super-structure. All foundation settle which is not a problem. The problem is if the foundation is not appropriate for the soil type; one runs the risk of substantial differential settlement which may lead to cracks and possibly collapse

The problem with Lekki axis is well documented. Normally one should carry out a soil test but this adds to the overall cost structure hence the tendency to adopt the safe option of Raft Foundation where no soil test was carried out. Expensive it may be but one could hardly go wrong if well executed. The huge advantage with Raft Foundation in Lekki environs is that it not only helps with dampness; but so fortified (all round "chaining"with Rods that substantial dangerous differential settlement of the foundation may be eliminated completely. The lekki area because of the sandy soil type and water logged nature is susceptible and can induce differential settlement.

diordaves:

It is always advisable to engage the services of a reputably qualified professional for foundation design. It is not what one can toy with. Get it wrong and one may be in for a whole lot of grief.

Lawali; you may cut corners with aesthetic stuff but not with foundation. Get the services of a professional and take him to site and possible do a soil test. Only then can you be sure of what type of foundation that is appropriate for your site.Foundation does not allow any cosmetic approach.

Segcy Moor made a valuable point. What you must also know is that foundation is not only about dampness to be corrected with DPC like your post suggests. Foundation main function is to spread the dead and live load of the super-structure. All foundation settle which is not a problem. The problem is if the foundation is not appropriate for the soil type; one runs the risk of substantial differential settlement which may lead to cracks and possibly collapse

The problem with Lekki axis is well documented. Normally one should carry out a soil test but this adds to the overall cost structure hence the tendency to adopt the safe option of Raft Foundation where no soil test was carried out. Expensive it may be but one could hardly go wrong if well executed. The huge advantage with Raft Foundation in Lekki environs is that it not only helps with dampness; but so fortified (all round "chaining"with Rods that substantial dangerous differential settlement of the foundation may be eliminated completely. The lekki area because of the sandy soil type and water logged nature is susceptible and can induce differential settlement.

Good points. As a matter of fact you may end up spending less when you know the characteristic of the soil you are building on many people summarily assumed raft or pile foundation all the time whereas there could be a cheaper alternative if only a proper investigation could be carried out, also many in name of being prudent has built a foundation that could not sustain their building because the soil may physical look firm at the surface but underneath there may be a poor strata. I design a structure for a particular Church, and in the course of my investigation i discover that the land was on a transition line i;e some part was firm and having a very high soil bearing capacity while the other side was swampy with a very poor bearing capacity in this case we can combine foundation type to save cost rather than assuming raft for all because of the swampy part.

Lets be frank and help this situation. we don't want to start patching things up at this stage. Someone's children will live in that house tomorrow. in my opinion the architect made a mistake yes but I did expect that Oga Brabus should have picked this and advised the owner before the first block was laid. In my humble opinion, when it Comes to foundations, the best way is the right way.

Kindly take a reverse gear swallow the humble pie and do the right thing. afterall the architect quoted for 9 inches why use 6.

This no doubt will come at some cost but it is better than ending up with a collapsed building. So for me option 1. Rebuild the foundation using the right specs.

option 2. leave the building as a bungalow.

I stand to be corrected.

deking: Lets be frank and help this situation. we don't want to start patching things up at this stage. Someone's children will live in that house tomorrow. in my opinion the architect made a mistake yes but I did expect that Oga Brabus should have picked this and advised the owner before the first block was laid. In my humble opinion, when it Comes to foundations, the best way is the right way.

Kindly take a reverse gear swallow the humble pie and do the right thing. afterall the architect quoted for 9 inches why use 6.

This no doubt will come at some cost but it is better than ending up with a collapsed building. So for me option 1. Rebuild the foundation using the right specs.

option 2. leave the building as a bungalow.

I stand to be corrected.

@is that the only option? cant something else be done? I think its the pillars that carries a house and not the blocks. Since oga brabus said the pillars are very much ok, cant he fill the blocks with watery concrete and cement? cant something else be done? must the owner do a new foundation. The experts in the house should suggest something. I am not a builder but would wanna build someday and if im in the client shoes right now, bringing down the foundation or doing a bungalow wont be funny at all.....

jaydacorsair, so many solution is made here, don't forget the concept "Many building solutions, one builder" Mr. jaydacorsair should give the way forward, i suggest only toilet and bath partition should remain 6" all other wall should be convert to 9" make the adjustment now. the blocks is still very much useful...start up pillar's ring should be change to fit 9" Block.

Did I hear collapse? WHY? Because it wasn't a raft or pile or what?

Here is a timeline picture of a similar project we did between September to October 2012 for another Nairalander in diaspora. I can give the address for you all to check the integrity of the structure and mind you we used gravel as against using the GRANITE.

Project Cost: N3.8m (Foundation - Roofing)

Filling works

DPC and Block laying

Walls Up (Sept. 24 - 25, 2012)

Walls up

First Floor Formwork (Oct 1, 2012)

Pls check well! It is still 6in

Formwork

Oct 4, 2012

Reinforcement (Oct 5, 2012)