IdaraCHODB:


Yes, he is not replacing the tranny agreed!

But he has bad ATF which flows through the oil cooler lines and oil cooler. Especially if he did not use a synthetic ATF.

If the tranny has degraded so much, and he doesn't plan on replacing the tranny anytime soon, then i recommend that he puts two and two together, that is, make a learned inference from the above service bulletin.

his oil cooler is now clogged, same goes for the transmission lines, in addition to the dirts clogging the transmission itself.

So I would flush not with a machine but via the return line method first until fluid is clear, he may need up to 6 litres above normal ATF capacity to get this done

THEN

disconnect tranny lines and oil coolers

AND DO

a backflush, a flush and another backflush using fluids and air compressor methods

THEN

reconnect.

if he doesn't follow this procedure, all his new ATF will be immediately contaminated and will turn brown within 5,000 to 10,000 miles

each subsequent minor drain and refill without clearing the oil cooler and lines will continually increase the debris until the transmission packs up

So true, Mazda didn't say so, but I can infer that he needs to do it or pay the price of a transmission replacement in 30,000 to 50,000 miles.

lele007:
@
Kashif,
USAutobuy
IdaraCHODB

Thanks for helping out.

I don't think the transmission is about to die, given that its pretty normal when I don't drive for a while. Only acts up when it gets warm.

Previous ATF service the mechanic used something he shouldn't have (Oando or whatever, I wasn't there) and less than 3000 km later its now brown.

I think I'll just drain and fill 2 times within 500 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic to get to a safe level of bad oil dilution, and hope for d best. There's no debris on the dipstick as far as I can see, and in Jesus name, this same transmission will carry me for the next X ,000s miles till I'm ready to sell this car.

Amen? Thanks again.

cardoctor:


1992 car? 23 years? What do you expect after so much mileage? Gearbox should be due for change if not maintained properly. BTW, what's the mileage?

lele007:
@
Kashif,
USAutobuy
IdaraCHODB

Thanks for helping out.

I don't think the transmission is about to die, given that its pretty normal when I don't drive for a while. Only acts up when it gets warm.

Previous ATF service the mechanic used something he shouldn't have (Oando or whatever, I wasn't there) and less than 3000 km later its now brown.

I think I'll just drain and fill 2 times within 500 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic to get to a safe level of bad oil dilution, and hope for d best. There's no debris on the dipstick as far as I can see, and in Jesus name, this same transmission will carry me for the next X ,000s miles till I'm ready to sell this car.

Amen? Thanks again.

0gbeni:
Good evening chief, I use a an auto golf 3, I've noticed that each time I enter a porthole/bump, my gear refuses to change, the car's rpm just increases, my mechanic is advocating for a transmission fluid change but I want to seek other opinions before taking a decision .thanks

krystaball:


The first decision is to scan that vehicle. For your scan and diagnosis..call 07011822425.

usorohita:
please I have an Honda Accord 2003 model with V6, 3.0L; SOHC; 24V; MPFI engine with automatic transmission and it does not enter reverse gear. please what is the way forward and what should i do to tackle this problem. thanks

0gbeni:

okay, im in ife/ibadan ..where are you based ?

lele007:
@
Kashif,
USAutobuy
IdaraCHODB

By way of an update...

Drained about 3+ liters of ATF, which is less than half of the transmission capacity - but all you can get out through the drain plug hole - and topped off with Mobil 1 ATF. Since then I only got the AT warning light once, after some (relatively) hard accelerating. On the whole problem seems to have disappeared.

A forum post at this link seems to suggest that it is a computer/software problem: http://forums.redflagdeals.com/2004-mazda3-gt-auto-light-any-thoughts-1323644/

Any way, will put in my final 3 liters of Mobil 1 probably this weekend, probably do it myself, as the mechanic I went to for the last drain-fill poured away about half a quart of my mobil red gold . Imagine paying somebody for clumsily doing something you can do yourself if you had the right spanner/wrench.

Scanned with a simple OBDII reader, didnt detect any AT codes. Hoping I've seen the last of that problem.

andresia:
I recently had a crash with my car (a baby boy 98 4plug) and one of the switch on the gearbox got broken.

Pls how can it be replaced as the switch seems to be glued together with the gearbox

Gazzuz, lomomike, cardoctor, luvinhubby, et al, pls assist

femicousim:


well, you might want to scan that vehicle, from your description of the symptoms it might well be an automatic transmission valve control assembly, so you might want to check which solenoid is acting up, so if you replace the fluid and it is still acting up please be sure to pay the vave body some attention

walexpal:
I just had my gearbox change, i noticed the ATF fluid used by the Mechanic is Seahorse ATF fluid, Dextron III. Please is this Oil appropriate. The car is still working fine. Can I change the oil to ATF-Z1 after a while? The model is Honda Accord 1998/1999 model. Thank you.

Faru:
I commend all the experts who have made out time from their impossible schedules to answer repetitive queries. One of my regrets in life was my failure to learn mechanic work when I was much younger; I console all Nigerian car owners for the nightmare we have to endure from these bunch of quacks who call themselves mechanics.
I drive a V6 2001 Camry xle and recently I noticed the car is not as responsive as it used to and getting too slow for a v6 engined car. I complained to my mechanic in Ibadan and he changed my ATF without seeking my authorisation (meanwhile I had change d gearbox ATF wt d Toyota brand a week before).
The car has become even slower and now there's delay in the shifting of gear.
Please what do I do?
Secondly, I would want to know the implications to the car of converting the car to manual?
Thank you as I await a very urgent response from the house.
God bless you all.

lele007:


Good man, it appears you were right. How do I pay this valve control body some attention, specifically, is there a mechanic familiar with these Mazda systems that you can recommend?

Here is a description of the faults this morning.

I warm the car up for about 4 mins at 5 a.m. when I shift into drive, the gear selector digital display shows 1, then 2, then 4 (!) even before the car moves. The AT (warning light) comes on. I shift to reverse, and the autobox thuds and shakes the car (! yikes !). I shift to park the warning light stays on. I shut off the engine and restart. Everything normal, shifts, movement, everything. I park the car and join my neighbour to work.

Please help with directions on how to solve this problem if u know how. Any wise autobox technicians in Lagos? Thanks in advance

Kashif:


This is resolved?