₦airaland Forum

astrid97:
wow! Thats interest. Actually thought it was a fable.

20bc:
[color=teal] Feed it with groundnut mixed with corn, Little insect and maybe some fowl feed....
Try and find a bigger cage for it.
Spend time with it, have a lengthy conversation with it even if its odd
Allow it to fly around your room sometimes.
This would build a trust between both of you....

Good luck. [/color]

durubrian:
feed it with grinded pepper for the first 6 months ..

chronique:
Cc: lalasticlala

Kindly help to move to front page so I can get help from people who are conversant with this bird. Thanks.

durubrian:
feed it with grinded pepper for the first 6 months ..

illiad:
Please I need one. Love birds above all animals and would rather come as a Phoenix in next life if God made it too expensive for me to come again as Igbo.

BABANGBALI:
come to my house and see them

sleeksamurai:
If I hear. Ur gotted got my tummy aching

BABANGBALI:
i doesn't even knows you,i have never meeted you before,so how did i gotted your tummy aching?you are just spoking lie and you are too beautiful to spoke lie in a pumblic folum

MansaMoussa:
Hate Seeing Animals in Cages

sleeksamurai:
Its OK. I'm sorry. I apologize. We haven't meeted. I shouldn't be spoking lie in public forum. I'm very sorry

KelsAltair:
I have a lion for you... hope you have enough room

20bc:
[color=teal]Lol, as a bird? [/color]

ollybosieb:
This is my parrot...... It's been with my family for two years. Damn! It sure can talk all day. I feed mine with fresh groundnut (mine love removing it from the shell itself) sugarcane,half cooked beans, maize(you have to soak it for 2 to 3 hours before feeding) apple,carrot,palm fruit(banga) and hot pepper (rodo).

tosyne2much:
If this is the level you want to take it then it's fine


I only quoted you cos I found that part hilarious when you opined that the said parrot could memorize lyrics. However, I further added that I used to think it was impossible for parrots to talk cos I have never witnessed it. Only for you to start calling me names, adding that my parents made I big mistake by giving birth to me..


Heaven knows that I had nothing against you, I only quoted you just the normal way I quote people especially when I get to know new thing which I never knew


Goodnyt

Guyman02:
https://edge.liveleak.com/80281E/s/s/20/media20/2015/Jul/1/LiveLeak-dot-com-c78aae03bda1-lolol.gif?d5e8cc8eccfb6039332f41f6249e92b06c91b4db65f5e99818bdd2964941d3d7b93a&ec_rate=230

Dancing Shoki in celebration of your buying an animal that should have been left free in the wild.
anyway here are some tips to help you to become a good parrot keeper.

1. Obtain a proper cage.
Square or rectangular cages are more appropriate for parrots; they feel unsafe in round cages that do not have corners. Ensure your cage is large enough for your parrot to climb and move comfortably in. Cages should have enough room for perches, toys, food bowls, water bowls, and rest areas. Choose the size of your parrot cage based on the size of your parrot:
A minimum of approximately: 24" W x 24" H x 24" D for smaller parrots
A minimum of approximately 5 ft W x 6 ft H x 3½ ft D for larger parrots
Bar spacing: 1/2" for smaller parrots
Bar spacing: 4" for larger parrots

2. Place the cage in a room where he can interact.
Parrots are social creatures. In the wild, they stay with a flock and maintain constant contact with flock mates. If they are kept isolated they may develop separation anxiety. Parrots like being in rooms where their human flock hangs out.
If you have other pets, you will want to keep your bird cage in a room that can be closed off while you are gone from the house. Be sure that you supervise your other pets around the bird, and keep them out of the room if they are causing stress to the bird.

3 Keep temperatures steady.
Birds can tolerate a large range of temperature, but the ideal temperature for your parrot is between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid leaving your parrot in a chilly room or dropping your thermostat overnight during winter. Temperatures below 40 degrees can be dangerous for birds, especially thin ones. Plumper birds can develop heat stress to temperatures above 85 degrees. If you must keep your parrot in higher temperatures, be sure that there is plenty of air circulation.

Part 2: Feeding Your Parrot
1 Vary your parrot's diet. Parrots need a varied diet with a broad range of nutritional value. They should ideally not be kept on a diet of seeds and pellets only, though the bird seed and pellet mixes at pet stores are good to use as the base for their diet. Here are some basics for supplementing the seed or pellet mixtures:
- Do feed fresh fruits and vegetables. Rinse them well just like you would if you were preparing them for people. Many parrots like grapes, bananas, apples, carrots, berries, greens, all varieties of cooked squash, peas, green beans, and more. Be sure to not overdo it on fruit because of sugar content.
- Some types of parrots, such as macaws, love to open the shells of nuts to get the meat out. Try giving your parrot pistachios, pecans, and macadamias.
- Do not feed parrots caffeine, alcohol, chocolate, sugary or salty snacks, greasy foods, raw or dry beans, rhubarb leaves, dill, cabbage, asparagus, eggplant or honey.
- Never give a parrot avocado or onions! Both are toxic to parrots. Avocado can cause immediate cardiac arrest and death in a parrot.[4]
- Feed the right amounts. Small and medium sized birds should have food and water containers that are at least 20 ounces. Large birds should have food and water containers that are at least 30 ounces. Weaned babies and small birds will need extra amounts of food because of their higher metabolisms and levels of activity.

- Have a container for water that’s large enough for your bird to bathe in. Birds will drink out of the same water they bathe in, and this is okay. Be sure not to put vitamin supplements in water even if the guidelines say to do this. The reasons are because birds don’t drink that much, so you don’t know how much they are getting, and because it can cause bacteria to form quickly in the water.[6]
Image titled Care for a Parrot Step 84
Avoid cooking with non-stick pans and utensils. This is especially true if you keep your parrot in or near the kitchen. The chemicals used in non-stick cookware can be deadly to parrots when heated above a certain temperature.
Second hand smoke is also very bad for parrots, just like it is for humans. Avoid smoking in the house if you smoke and have a parrot.

Part 3: Keeping Your Parrot Healthy
1 Tend to the cage bottom every two days.
2 Clean and change the food and water bowls every day. Remove the food and water bowls daily, clean them and replace them with fresh food and water.
Remove foods that rot quickly, such as cooked beans, immediately after feeding. Parrots can be especially prone to infections from bacteria, so keeping the cage clean is an absolute necessity
Be sure to use a bird-safe disinfectant for cleaning the cage weekly - these can be found at your local pet store. Regular human disinfectants can be too strong and can harm your bird.
3 Visit the vet on a regular schedule. Some parrots are completely healthy forever, however most of the time when your parrot encounters a health problem, it could have been solved with some preventative vet consultations. Make sure your veterinarian is one that sees birds specifically
4 Watch for health problems. A healthy parrot is alert to his surroundings, stays upright most of the time, and is active. If your parrot starts acting sick, see a veterinarian. Some signs of a sick parrot include:
Deformed, receding, or ulcerated beak
Difficulty breathing
Stains around the eyes or nostrils
Change in appearance or texture of stools
Weight loss or loss of appetite
Swollen eyes or eyelids
Feather problems including chewing, plucking, or thinning
Bowed head, lethargy, being overly quiet

Part 4: Training and Socializing Your Parrot
1 Learn to approach the cage properly. In the beginning, approach your parrot’s cage slowly and without making any loud noises. You may also want to avoid eye contact in the beginning for a fearful bird, so he doesn’t feel singled out by a predator. If you find the parrot trying to bite you, thrashing around the cage, or making other drastic displays of discomfort to your presence, you’ll need to get him accustomed to you:
Go back out of the room and out of sight. Start walking back in, and at the moment of the discomfort response, stop and stay where you are. Do not approach further and wait for him to calm down. Then begin walking closer. If he acts up again, stop and stay still until he calms down. You may need to do this frequently until you can get close to the cage.

Determine treats for your parrot. Training your parrot is a must for giving him the socialization he needs. To determine what foods are his favorite treats, try giving him a variety of nuts, fresh and dried fruits, and seeds. A new parrot may be unaccustomed to some of these foods, so give him a few days to determine which ones are favorites. Once you figure out a favorite, don’t serve it as part of daily meals and save it for training.

Use target training to get your parrot to come out of and return to the cage. The first step of target training is getting the parrot to eat treats from your hand. This may take a few seconds to a few weeks. Simply go to the side of the cage and have a treat in your hand. Wait for the parrot to come over and eat it.
Once your parrot is comfortable eating treats from your hand, introduce the clicker. Begin clicking the clicker right before offering a treat from your hand. Do this every time, so that it becomes used to hearing the click before eating a treat.
Use a target stick (chopstick or dowel) to get your parrot to move to certain areas of the cage. Begin by introducing the stick, allowing the parrot to move close to it, and deliver a click and a treat. Train the parrot to move toward the stick each time by delivering the click and the treat. If he becomes uninterested in the stick, he may be full and you should wait a while until he becomes hungrier to resume training.[11]
Use the target stick to teach your parrot to step up onto your hand or a handheld perch. Eventually you should be able to bring your parrot out of the cage to continue training and/or clean the cage.
Keep all of your training sessions short (about 10 to 15 minutes each time) and only try to train once or twice a day.

Tame your parrot to allow you to pet him. Many parrots enjoy being pet and touched. The first place to start is with his beak. Once he is comfortable having your hand near his beak without trying to bite, you’ll know he is comfortable with you touching him. Bring your hand slowly near his beak. If he looks like he’s going to try to bite, stop immediately. Hold your hand still until he calms down. When you get your hand close to his beak without him trying to bite, take your hand away and give a treat.
Do the same steps with touching his body. Move your hand toward his body slowly. If he seems irritated, stop and wait. Work up to being allowed to pet him. Once you’re able to pet him, give a treat.

Talk to your parrot. Some parrots are better “talkers” than others, but all parrots have the anatomical capability to mimic human speech. Regardless of how well your parrot learns to repeat you, talking to him is an important part of his emotional health, so be sure to talk to him often.
Name certain things to him: when giving him certain types of food, you can say, “apple,” or “banana.”
Associate certain words with your actions. When you walk into the room, say "Hello, Alex" (or whatever your name is) or "Good morning!" When you leave a room, say “Good-bye!” or “Good night.”
Your parrot will also enjoy hearing you have a conversation (even if it’s with him and is mostly one-sided), hearing you sing, listening to the television while you watch it, or listening to music.
Some parrots pick up many phrases, so be careful of cursing or yelling around him unless you want him to repeat unsavory language.[14]

Choose good toys for your parrot. Toys provide mental stimulation and relief from boredom. You should offer toys that have a variety of textures, colors, and sounds. It’s a good idea to rotate the toys weekly so your parrot doesn’t get bored of the same toys day in and day out. Here are some more things to keep in mind about parrot toys:
Choose small, lightweight toys and mirrors for small birds.
Larger birds like to manipulate thicker toy pieces with their beaks, tongues and feet.
Birds love to chew. It is part of their natural behavior to tear things apart. Be sure to check the toys regularly for damage, and throw them away if they are cracked or could break into small pieces that could injure your parrot.

Learn parrot body language. In general, a parrot with an upright stance and smoothed feathers is wary or frightened. Loose, slightly ruffled feathers indicate happiness. A bird sitting on one foot with puffed out feathers may not feel well. All feathers sticking as far out as possible usually mean he’s courting or getting ready to fight. Stretching out one wing and then the other, or a slight tail feather wagging, means he’s feeling happy and healthy. Some happy birds even wiggle their tongues or move their beaks up and down when they see something they like

chronique:
I've always admired parrots cos of the way they mimic people. I've kept dogs as pets in the past but I made the mistake of not researching well before purchasing the parrot. I actually didn't plan to buy it,but saw someone passing by my office with a parrot. Just then,I realized I'd always wanted one,and I decided to pay for it on the spot. Well,the parrot is scared of me,and only eats and plays when I'm away from him. Moreso,I haven't been able to spend time with it cos I'm always not around. I don't think I have the luxury of time to sit in front of a parrot and start talking non-stop so it can learn how to talk;that would never happen. I haven't even been able to sit with the man I wanted to help me build a cage for the pet... As it is,my mind is made up on selling it off. Anyone interested in it,should give me a ring.

beautycrush24:
I've seen d picture of urs. Hope u've changed its cage cos stayin in dat cage for abt 2wks or more wouldnt b a nice experience for d poor bird.
Yours is a senegal grey. Its d exact type i have. They dont talk. But they whistle and are very entertaining. You should really sell it since u wont be home with it.
But if you plan to buy again in d future (probably wen u av kids dat'll have time for it), u should go for the African grey. Its all grey (some1 posted d pix above). They talk like humans and are very sensible and also have d ability to learn different languages if you speak it frequently. Good luck to u.

chronique:
Still same cage but I manage to change the catron in it,when I can. Met someone to help build a cage for it but couldn't conclude with him cos I was rushing for work,and haven't seen him since then. I even forgot to save his no and can't reach him now. My mind is made up on selling it off so it doesn't go through so much torture.

Guyman02:
https://edge.liveleak.com/80281E/s/s/20/media20/2015/Jul/1/LiveLeak-dot-com-c78aae03bda1-lolol.gif?d5e8cc8eccfb6039332f41f6249e92b06c91b4db65f5e99818bdd2964941d3d7b93a&ec_rate=230

Dancing Shoki in celebration of your buying an animal that should have been left free in the wild.
anyway here are some tips to help you to become a good parrot keeper.

1. Obtain a proper cage.
Square or rectangular cages are more appropriate for parrots; they feel unsafe in round cages that do not have corners. Ensure your cage is large enough for your parrot to climb and move comfortably in. Cages should have enough room for perches, toys, food bowls, water bowls, and rest areas. Choose the size of your parrot cage based on the size of your parrot:
A minimum of approximately: 24" W x 24" H x 24" D for smaller parrots
A minimum of approximately 5 ft W x 6 ft H x 3½ ft D for larger parrots
Bar spacing: 1/2" for smaller parrots
Bar spacing: 4" for larger parrots

2. Place the cage in a room where he can interact.
Parrots are social creatures. In the wild, they stay with a flock and maintain constant contact with flock mates. If they are kept isolated they may develop separation anxiety. Parrots like being in rooms where their human flock hangs out.
If you have other pets, you will want to keep your bird cage in a room that can be closed off while you are gone from the house. Be sure that you supervise your other pets around the bird, and keep them out of the room if they are causing stress to the bird.

3 Keep temperatures steady.
Birds can tolerate a large range of temperature, but the ideal temperature for your parrot is between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid leaving your parrot in a chilly room or dropping your thermostat overnight during winter. Temperatures below 40 degrees can be dangerous for birds, especially thin ones. Plumper birds can develop heat stress to temperatures above 85 degrees. If you must keep your parrot in higher temperatures, be sure that there is plenty of air circulation.

Part 2: Feeding Your Parrot
1 Vary your parrot's diet. Parrots need a varied diet with a broad range of nutritional value. They should ideally not be kept on a diet of seeds and pellets only, though the bird seed and pellet mixes at pet stores are good to use as the base for their diet. Here are some basics for supplementing the seed or pellet mixtures:
- Do feed fresh fruits and vegetables. Rinse them well just like you would if you were preparing them for people. Many parrots like grapes, bananas, apples, carrots, berries, greens, all varieties of cooked squash, peas, green beans, and more. Be sure to not overdo it on fruit because of sugar content.
- Some types of parrots, such as macaws, love to open the shells of nuts to get the meat out. Try giving your parrot pistachios, pecans, and macadamias.
- Do not feed parrots caffeine, alcohol, chocolate, sugary or salty snacks, greasy foods, raw or dry beans, rhubarb leaves, dill, cabbage, asparagus, eggplant or honey.
- Never give a parrot avocado or onions! Both are toxic to parrots. Avocado can cause immediate cardiac arrest and death in a parrot.[4]
- Feed the right amounts. Small and medium sized birds should have food and water containers that are at least 20 ounces. Large birds should have food and water containers that are at least 30 ounces. Weaned babies and small birds will need extra amounts of food because of their higher metabolisms and levels of activity.

- Have a container for water that’s large enough for your bird to bathe in. Birds will drink out of the same water they bathe in, and this is okay. Be sure not to put vitamin supplements in water even if the guidelines say to do this. The reasons are because birds don’t drink that much, so you don’t know how much they are getting, and because it can cause bacteria to form quickly in the water.[6]
Image titled Care for a Parrot Step 84
Avoid cooking with non-stick pans and utensils. This is especially true if you keep your parrot in or near the kitchen. The chemicals used in non-stick cookware can be deadly to parrots when heated above a certain temperature.
Second hand smoke is also very bad for parrots, just like it is for humans. Avoid smoking in the house if you smoke and have a parrot.

Part 3: Keeping Your Parrot Healthy
1 Tend to the cage bottom every two days.
2 Clean and change the food and water bowls every day. Remove the food and water bowls daily, clean them and replace them with fresh food and water.
Remove foods that rot quickly, such as cooked beans, immediately after feeding. Parrots can be especially prone to infections from bacteria, so keeping the cage clean is an absolute necessity
Be sure to use a bird-safe disinfectant for cleaning the cage weekly - these can be found at your local pet store. Regular human disinfectants can be too strong and can harm your bird.
3 Visit the vet on a regular schedule. Some parrots are completely healthy forever, however most of the time when your parrot encounters a health problem, it could have been solved with some preventative vet consultations. Make sure your veterinarian is one that sees birds specifically
4 Watch for health problems. A healthy parrot is alert to his surroundings, stays upright most of the time, and is active. If your parrot starts acting sick, see a veterinarian. Some signs of a sick parrot include:
Deformed, receding, or ulcerated beak
Difficulty breathing
Stains around the eyes or nostrils
Change in appearance or texture of stools
Weight loss or loss of appetite
Swollen eyes or eyelids
Feather problems including chewing, plucking, or thinning
Bowed head, lethargy, being overly quiet

Part 4: Training and Socializing Your Parrot
1 Learn to approach the cage properly. In the beginning, approach your parrot’s cage slowly and without making any loud noises. You may also want to avoid eye contact in the beginning for a fearful bird, so he doesn’t feel singled out by a predator. If you find the parrot trying to bite you, thrashing around the cage, or making other drastic displays of discomfort to your presence, you’ll need to get him accustomed to you:
Go back out of the room and out of sight. Start walking back in, and at the moment of the discomfort response, stop and stay where you are. Do not approach further and wait for him to calm down. Then begin walking closer. If he acts up again, stop and stay still until he calms down. You may need to do this frequently until you can get close to the cage.

Determine treats for your parrot. Training your parrot is a must for giving him the socialization he needs. To determine what foods are his favorite treats, try giving him a variety of nuts, fresh and dried fruits, and seeds. A new parrot may be unaccustomed to some of these foods, so give him a few days to determine which ones are favorites. Once you figure out a favorite, don’t serve it as part of daily meals and save it for training.

Use target training to get your parrot to come out of and return to the cage. The first step of target training is getting the parrot to eat treats from your hand. This may take a few seconds to a few weeks. Simply go to the side of the cage and have a treat in your hand. Wait for the parrot to come over and eat it.
Once your parrot is comfortable eating treats from your hand, introduce the clicker. Begin clicking the clicker right before offering a treat from your hand. Do this every time, so that it becomes used to hearing the click before eating a treat.
Use a target stick (chopstick or dowel) to get your parrot to move to certain areas of the cage. Begin by introducing the stick, allowing the parrot to move close to it, and deliver a click and a treat. Train the parrot to move toward the stick each time by delivering the click and the treat. If he becomes uninterested in the stick, he may be full and you should wait a while until he becomes hungrier to resume training.[11]
Use the target stick to teach your parrot to step up onto your hand or a handheld perch. Eventually you should be able to bring your parrot out of the cage to continue training and/or clean the cage.
Keep all of your training sessions short (about 10 to 15 minutes each time) and only try to train once or twice a day.

Tame your parrot to allow you to pet him. Many parrots enjoy being pet and touched. The first place to start is with his beak. Once he is comfortable having your hand near his beak without trying to bite, you’ll know he is comfortable with you touching him. Bring your hand slowly near his beak. If he looks like he’s going to try to bite, stop immediately. Hold your hand still until he calms down. When you get your hand close to his beak without him trying to bite, take your hand away and give a treat.
Do the same steps with touching his body. Move your hand toward his body slowly. If he seems irritated, stop and wait. Work up to being allowed to pet him. Once you’re able to pet him, give a treat.

Talk to your parrot. Some parrots are better “talkers” than others, but all parrots have the anatomical capability to mimic human speech. Regardless of how well your parrot learns to repeat you, talking to him is an important part of his emotional health, so be sure to talk to him often.
Name certain things to him: when giving him certain types of food, you can say, “apple,” or “banana.”
Associate certain words with your actions. When you walk into the room, say "Hello, Alex" (or whatever your name is) or "Good morning!" When you leave a room, say “Good-bye!” or “Good night.”
Your parrot will also enjoy hearing you have a conversation (even if it’s with him and is mostly one-sided), hearing you sing, listening to the television while you watch it, or listening to music.
Some parrots pick up many phrases, so be careful of cursing or yelling around him unless you want him to repeat unsavory language.[14]

Choose good toys for your parrot. Toys provide mental stimulation and relief from boredom. You should offer toys that have a variety of textures, colors, and sounds. It’s a good idea to rotate the toys weekly so your parrot doesn’t get bored of the same toys day in and day out. Here are some more things to keep in mind about parrot toys:
Choose small, lightweight toys and mirrors for small birds.
Larger birds like to manipulate thicker toy pieces with their beaks, tongues and feet.
Birds love to chew. It is part of their natural behavior to tear things apart. Be sure to check the toys regularly for damage, and throw them away if they are cracked or could break into small pieces that could injure your parrot.

Learn parrot body language. In general, a parrot with an upright stance and smoothed feathers is wary or frightened. Loose, slightly ruffled feathers indicate happiness. A bird sitting on one foot with puffed out feathers may not feel well. All feathers sticking as far out as possible usually mean he’s courting or getting ready to fight. Stretching out one wing and then the other, or a slight tail feather wagging, means he’s feeling happy and healthy. Some happy birds even wiggle their tongues or move their beaks up and down when they see something they like

mommysgirl:
Feed it sugar cane, they love it a lot, scrap the hard shell and give them the juicy part

Shortyy:
who cares?? feed it cow dung