Does you vehicle have any electrical or electronic faults?

Post your queries here and we will do our best to answer!

NOTE: ONLY ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC FAULTS WILL BE RESPONDED TO BY THE OP!

What does the OP mean by automotive electricity and electronics systems?

Let Wikipedia help:

Automotive electronics are any electrically-generated systems used in road vehicles, such as: carputers, telematics, in-car entertainment systems, etc..

Automotive electronics originated from the need to control engines. The first electronic pieces were used to control engine functions and were referred to as engine control units (ECU). As electronic controls began to be used for more automotive applications, the acronym ECU took on the more general meaning of "electronic control unit", and then specific ECU's were developed. Now, ECU's are modular. Two types include engine control modules (ECM) or transmission control modules (TCM).

A modern car may have up to 100 ECU's and a commercial vehicle up to 40.

Automotive electronics or automotive embedded systems are distributed systems, and according to different domains in the automotive field, they can be classified into:

Engine electronics
Transmission electronics
Chassis electronics
Active safety
Driver assistance
Passenger comfort
Entertainment systems

Issues on any of the above should be dropped here, let's see how we can help you, as time and other resource constraints permit

So what is Engine Electronics:

Once more, we turn to Wikipedia:

One of the most demanding electronic parts of an automobile is the engine control unit. Engine controls demand one of the highest real time deadlines, as the engine itself is a very fast and complex part of the automobile. Of all the electronics in any car the computing power of the engine control unit is the highest, typically a 32-bit processor.

It controls such things as:

In a diesel engine:

Fuel injection rate
Emission control, NOx control
Regeneration of oxidation catalytic converter
Turbocharger control
Cooling system control
Throttle control

In a gasoline engine:

Lambda control
OBD (On-Board Diagnostics)
Cooling system control
Ignition system control
Lubrication system control (only a few have electronic control)
Fuel injection rate control
Throttle control

Many more engine parameters are actively monitored and controlled in real-time. There are about 20 to 50 that measure pressure, temperature, flow, engine speed, oxygen level and NOx level plus other parameters at different points within the engine. All these sensor signals are sent to the ECU, which has the logic circuits to do the actual controlling. The ECU output is connected to different actuators for the throttle valve, EGR valve, rack (in VGTs), fuel injector (using a pulse-width modulated signal), dosing injector and more. There are about 20 to 30 actuators in all.

And from the same source, on Transmission Electronics:

These control the transmission system, mainly the shifting of the gears for better shift comfort and to lower torque interrupt while shifting. Automatic transmissions use controls for their operation, and also many semi-automatic transmissions having a fully automatic clutch or a semi-auto clutch (declutching only). The engine control unit and the transmission control exchange messages, sensor signals and control signals for their operation.

Chassis Electronics:

The chassis system has lot of sub-systems which monitor various parameters and are actively controlled:

ABS - Anti-lock Braking System
TCS – Traction Control System
EBD – Electronic Brake Distribution
ESP – Electronic Stability Program

Same source as before

Passive Safety Electronics

These systems are always ready to act when there is a collision in progress or to prevent it when it senses a dangerous situation:

Air bags
Hill descent control
Emergency brake assist system

Same source as previously acknowledged

My Honda Accord 2005 Model eject every CD inserted on the player, it only play fm, please what do I do

elbukaze:
My Honda Accord 2005 Model eject every CD inserted on the player, it only play fm, please what do I do

Single Disk or 6 Disc Changer
OEM or Aftermarket?
What have you done so far that hasn't worked?
Once you answer, I'll suggest next steps

Ever since I changed my battery, Honda Accord 04 volume knob won't increase or decrease the sound. I know it's connected because when I try to turn it up I see the volume mark comes up but won't increase.

Kjnwancaro:
Ever since I changed my battery, Honda Accord 04 volume knob won't increase or decrease the sound. I know it's connected because when I try to turn it up I see the volume mark comes up but won't increase.

To do a thorough job, it would be necessary to consult the wiring diagrams for the vehicle.

is the system stock or modified?

There may be a power or ground (short to ground) problem somewhere

But blind diagnosis would suggest the following:

Have you checked the fuse that controls the radio?

You can test if it works with a test light or a DMM or by removing it (but you must have the radio code)

If the fuse is good but it does not sound, then you may need to check the speakers (does the impedance check out), maybe there is a shorted speaker or blown speaker or the amplifier may be shorted and that isn't allowing power to go to the volume knob.

Hope this helps!

Passive Electronics

These systems are always ready to act when there is a collision in progress or to prevent it when it senses a dangerous situation:

Air bags
Hill descent control
Emergency brake assist system

Same source as the previous

AutoElectNG:



To do a thorough job, it would be necessary to consult the wiring diagrams for the vehicle.

is the system stock or modified?

There may be a power or ground (short to ground) problem somewhere

But blind diagnosis would suggest the following:

Have you checked the fuse that controls the radio?

You can test if it works with a test light or a DMM or by removing it (but you must have the radio code)

If the fuse is good but it does not sound, then you may need to check the speakers (does the impedance check out), maybe there is a shorted speaker or blown speaker or the amplifier may be shorted and that isn't allowing power to go to the volume knob.

Hope this helps!

I expected a more professional approach to this question ,u still have a lot to learn .

Kjnwancaro:
Ever since I changed my battery, Honda Accord 04 volume knob won't increase or decrease the sound. I know it's connected because when I try to turn it up I see the volume mark comes up but won't increase.

Let me clarify my response some more:

These are your options as to the cause of the problem:

1. You could have a bad radio ( the radio unit is known to go bad, the unit is over 10 years by the way 2016 - 2004!) in which case you will need a new unit

2. You could have bad wiring ( by bad wiring I mean, one or more of the wires between the radio unit and/or the amplifier and/or the speakers could have gone bad - it could be the wires that send power to the unit or the wires that ground the unit ( to have a complete circuit you need both power and ground)! If one or more of the speakers wires are touching the frame of the car, we call that grounding out. If they are cut somewhere, we call that an open circuit.And given the way your car audio circuit is designed, if one of the speakers grounds out, all the other speakers will not work! So the volume knob can appear to be in order but you will hear no sound.

3. You could have a good radio but a bad volume knob

4. a blown speaker (so we need to check the impedance)

Remedies to your problem include but are not limited to:

checking that all the fuses that control the radio or related circuits are in order ( so you need a wiring diagram)

checking that the problem is not with the radio

checking that the problem is not with the wiring - test the speakers wires ( so you need a wiring diagram), the amplifier wiring

disconnecting and reconnecting the speakers

checking that you do not have a blown speaker

The professional way to fix complex electronic circuitry is to begin with verifying the customer complaint, then moving on to consulting a wiring diagram and not merely a visual inspection without more.

So like I said before, all the above is blind diagnosis. For absolutely accurate and on the mark diagnosis, the vehicle has to be brought in and the technician needs to consult the wiring diagram, that way you can even understand where the problem might be without having to tear down anything! And maybe also manufacturer and third-party repair databases.

Only using the vehicle wiring diagram accompanied with a physical inspection will pinpoint the exact fault so it can be rectified, these are just pointers to guide you, and not conclusive diagnosis!

Let me know if I have been useful to you!

Driver Assistance Electronics

These include:

Lane assist system
Speed assist system
Blind spot detection
Park assist system
Adaptive cruise control system

Source remains unchanged

AutoElectNG:


Single Disk or 6 Disc Changer
OEM or Aftermarket?
What have you done so far that hasn't worked?
Once you answer, I'll suggest next steps

6 disc changer, OEM, I have not done anything to it, please can u help me with your whatsapp number

AutoElectNG:


Let me clarify my response some more:

These are your options as to the cause of the problem:

1. You could have a bad radio ( the radio unit is known to go bad, the unit is over 10 years by the way 2016 - 2004!) in which case you will need a new unit

2. You could have bad wiring ( by bad wiring I mean, one or more of the wires between the radio unit and/or the amplifier and/or the speakers could have gone bad - it could be the wires that send power to the unit or the wires that ground the unit ( to have a complete circuit you need both power and ground)! If one or more of the speakers wires are touching the frame of the car, we call that grounding out. If they are cut somewhere, we call that an open circuit.And given the way your car audio circuit is designed, if one of the speakers grounds out, all the other speakers will not work! So the volume knob can appear to be in order but you will hear no sound.

3. You could have a good radio but a bad volume knob

4. a blown speaker (so we need to check the impedance)

Remedies to your problem include but are not limited to:

checking that all the fuses that control the radio or related circuits are in order ( so you need a wiring diagram)

checking that the problem is not with the radio

checking that the problem is not with the wiring - test the speakers wires ( so you need a wiring diagram), the amplifier wiring

disconnecting and reconnecting the speakers

checking that you do not have a blown speaker

The professional way to fix complex electronic circuitry is to begin with verifying the customer complaint, then moving on to consulting a wiring diagram and not merely a visual inspection without more.

So like I said before, all the above is blind diagnosis. For absolutely accurate and on the mark diagnosis, the vehicle has to be brought in and the technician needs to consult the wiring diagram, that way you can even understand where the problem might be without having to tear down anything! And maybe also manufacturer and third-party repair databases.

Only using the vehicle wiring diagram accompanied with a physical inspection will pinpoint the exact fault so it can be rectified, these are just pointers to guide you, and not conclusive diagnosis!

Let me know if I have been useful to you!

Thank you for your very detailed answer but I think my case is a lil complex, i'll explain.

My steering has a volume control on and it controls the sound -that eliminates your suggestions on;
1. Bad radio
2. Blown speakers

Now that leaves us with maybe a bad wiring( which is very unlikely) and a bad knob which also may not be the problem. Reason for my last statement is that sometimes, just sometimes the volume knob actually works, it happens randomly maybe once in a month and sometimes it could work for maybe a whole day but it goes off again the next day.

My guess is a bad fuse as you have earlier stated but how do I locate the particular fuse for volume? Because every other thing on radio works fine.

Thanks again

elbukaze:


6 disc changer, OEM, I have not done anything to it, please can u help me with your whatsapp number

I assume that you mean that it doesn't accept CDs and it does not give back CDs, right?

Do you have the Radio Code? Write it down somewhere. Then remove the fuse that controls the radio and put it back. If the CD still don't work, then disconnect the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes and reconnect.

Or if you prefer, this is a faster method, disconnect both the positive and negative battery cable heads and touch them together for about 5 to 10 seconds, it accomplish the same effect as the former method - its like telling the computer forget everything you knew before and learn afresh.

This reset procedure may allow it to work again.

If that doesn't work, you can also try engaging the eject button (by holding it for a while) until you hear it beep and hopefully eject CDs in the unit. If this don't work then seriously consider the 5 alternatives below because it would appear your CD changer has bit the dust or is about to!

If either method of rebooting the ECU fails to yield positive results, then you have five options:

1. Send it to a dedicated factory radio repair shop
2. Purchase a second hand unit (with the possibility it will malfunction in the future)
3. Purchase a brand new unit (but this is old technology which will be so costly and will most like fail again even if it is in the far future)
4. Install an aftermarket head unit (might not be as aesthetic as the factory install)
5. Use the auxiliary adapter to bypass the factory stereo (keep the factory story in place but install a third party radio in the compartment next to your gear selector)

The unit is now at least over 10 years 2016 - 2005 = 11 years. They were not built to last forever.

Problem is how to find a dedicated factory radio repair shop who will replace the defective parts in the unit with new and return it to perfect working condition. Next to impossible in Nigeria! A fit and proper fix might not make economic sense.

The other problem is to find a perfectly functional second hand unit, I suggest you get nothing less than 2 weeks warranty with the option to replace with another unit if found faulty, but 30 days would be ideal, even if you have to pay a bit more than the normal price to pay for this level of peace of mind, it will be a worthy investment.

I have a very strong hunch that the CD changer is on its last days - given its age, the number of moving parts, its complexity and the aging electronics.

If i were in your shoes, I think I would go for either 4 or 5!

Kjnwancaro:
Ever since I changed my battery, Honda Accord 04 volume knob won't increase or decrease the sound. I know it's connected because when I try to turn it up I see the volume mark comes up but won't increase.

Got some spare time, so I did some more work on your case and i discovered that your manufacturer issued a Technical Service Bulletin on this matter.

It was entitled: NO SOUND FROM SPEAKERS

If your mechanic (technician) did not tell you about it, or if he did not reference it while attempting a repair to at least rule out that it does not apply to your specific vehicle, I would seriously question his competence!

Here are the details:

2004 Honda Accord Equipment Service Bulletin 194741
Action Number: 10015298
Service Bulletin Number: 194741
Report Date: Feb 16, 2005

Passenger Comfort Electronics:

These include:


Automatic climate control
Electronic seat adjustment with memory
Automatic wipers
Automatic headlamps - adjusts beam automatically
Automatic cooling - temperature adjustment


Same source: Wikipedia

Kjnwancaro:


Thank you for your very detailed answer but I think my case is a lil complex, i'll explain.

My steering has a volume control on and it controls the sound -that eliminates your suggestions on;
1. Bad radio
2. Blown speakers

Now that leaves us with maybe a bad wiring( which is very unlikely) and a bad knob which also may not be the problem. Reason for my last statement is that sometimes, just sometimes the volume knob actually works, it happens randomly maybe once in a month and sometimes it could work for maybe a whole day but it goes off again the next day.

My guess is a bad fuse as you have earlier stated but how do I locate the particular fuse for volume? Because every other thing on radio works fine.

Thanks again

Which volume control doesn't work - the one on the radio or the one on the steering? Seems like we are talking about two sets of volume controls here?

When something works intermittently, then the culprit tends to be bad contacts - sometimes it will make contact, at other times it will not make contact. It could be at the volume knob, it could be the wiring - one needs to have a wiring diagram handy and test equipment and work through the wiring around this sub-system of the car to eliminate the wiring as the problem.

If the wiring checks out, then sad to say the problem has to be the radio unit - it could be a crack somewhere in the PCB or a failed (cold solder joint)

That seems more likely to be your issue here, since it works sometimes and doesn't work at other times.

And by the way, I have not checked the TSB so I cannot say if it applies to your case or not, I just made a note of it for you in case you want this matter further investigated!

Infotainment systems electronics:

These would include:


Navigation system
Vehicle audio
Information access


So finally, am done with Wikipedia!

AutoElectNG:


Which volume control doesn't work - the one on the radio or the one on the steering? Seems like we are talking about two sets of volume controls here?

When something works intermittently, then the culprit tends to be bad contacts - sometimes it will make contact, at other times it will not make contact. It could be at the volume knob, it could be the wiring - one needs to have a wiring diagram handy and test equipment and work through the wiring around this sub-system of the car to eliminate the wiring as the problem.

If the wiring checks out, then sad to say the problem has to be the radio unit - it could be a crack somewhere in the PCB or a failed (cold solder joint)

That seems more likely to be your issue here, since it works sometimes and doesn't work at other times.

And by the way, I have not checked the TSB so I cannot say if it applies to your case or not, I just made a note of it for you in case you want this matter further investigated!

The car has two sound controls one on radio the other on steering. The one on steering works fine the only problem is the volume knob on radio.

Kjnwancaro:


The car has two sound controls one on radio the other on steering. The one on steering works fine the only problem is the volume knob on radio.

If the steering works fine and the radio doesn't work - i would manage without.

The radio unit was poorly built by Alpine - people have been ranting for years about the poor build, how the heat cycles (from the sun) destabilizes the unit and the poor electronics inside it, and when you use the AC, it sets in motion a series of contractions and expansions that cause the unit to self-destruct after a few years in all those accords, unless you fix the radio circuitry and its location, anything done will be nothing but a temporary fix, it will definitely come back, its not a matter of it, but when.

Can the idling speed be increased using the diagnostic machine. The car is a 2007 VW Touareg {gasoline} V6.

phibetakappa:
Can the idling speed be increased using the diagnostic machine. The car is a 2007 VW Touareg {gasoline} V6.

Why if i may ask would you want to increase the idle speed?

How it Works: The Computer Inside Your Car

A maze of wires and computers is the key to your vehicle's deepest secrets. The Controller Area Network, or CAN, is incredibly complex, but here's what drivers should know about how it keep your car's components connected.

We get asked a lot of questions about the bits and pieces of cars that squeak and rattle and break—everything from why is my wheel going clickety-clack to how do I get rid of this rodent smell. But for some time now we've seen our inboxes stuffed with questions on the failings of electronic components. That says something about the technological progress of the automobile. Vehicles are increasingly behaving like computers with wheels, so it's time for a discussion of a little-known aspect of your car: its computer network. In the past we would have called it the electrical system, but its mission has evolved way beyond simply moving dumb electrons. Collectively, these electronics are known as the Controller Area Network, or CAN, but, to be specific, the system of wires and software protocols acting as the connective tissue between a vehicle's computers and sensors is known as CANbus. CAN allows cars to be smarter, cheaper, and capable of doing some slick stuff that wouldn't otherwise be possible.

An Infrastructure for Info

We talked to Eric Paton, a technical specialist at Ford, about the intricacies of CAN. Paton says, "If there's one thing drivers should know when getting into a car, it's that everything seems simple, but beneath the covers it's incredibly complex." The design of CAN is similar to that of a freeway system. Data move like vehicles from high-traffic highways to local roads via on and off ramps. Thousands of data points traverse this freeway at any time along any given stretch and can get off at any exit. Throughout the car are various computers called electronic control units, or ECUs—the traffic lights and intersections of our road-system analogy. Each ECU has several jobs: controlling the engine or transmission, rolling up windows, unlocking doors, and the like. These computers have sensors and switches wired in to detect variables such as temperature, pressure, voltage, acceleration at different angles, braking, yaw and roll of the vehicle, steering angle, and many other signals. When an ECU needs a signal from a sensor connected to an ECU elsewhere in the car, that's where CAN comes in.

Like a freeway, the CANbus network allows data from all the sensors and computers to circulate around the car at all times. Each computer transmits all its sensor and programming information constantly—as many as 2000 signals are floating around the network at any time, whether they're being requested or not. At the same time, each ECU "listens" to the network to pluck out pieces of information it may need to carry out its work. There is no central hub or routing system, just a continuous flow of information that's always available to the ECUs.

Take, for instance, power sliding doors, a common feature on modern minivans. These doors are operated by an ECU called the body control module. Sensors constantly report whether the door is open or closed, and when the driver pushes a button to close the door, the signal from that switch is broadcast across the network. When the ECU gets that signal, however, it doesn't simply close the door. First, it checks the data stream to make sure the car is in park and not moving. If all is well, it then gives a command to a power circuit that energizes the motors used to close the door. It goes even further, though—the ECU then monitors the voltage consumed by the motors. If it detects a voltage spike, which happens when a door is hindered by an errant handbag or a wayward body part, the ECU immediately reverses the direction of the door to prevent potential injury. If the door closes properly, the latch electrically locks the door shut. In the old days, this would have been an engineering feat. Just electrically powering the doors would have required dedicated wires running between the shifter, the door switch, and the motor.

Before CAN was developed in the mid-'80s, every time an automaker added an electronic feature, like, say, heated seats, new, dedicated wires had to be added just to connect the heaters to a dash-mounted switch. Over the years, more features meant more wires, until there were literally miles of wire in wrist-thick vines snaking all over the car. With CAN, the seat heaters and the switch that powers them don't have to be directly wired together. They can simply "talk" over the existing CAN network—no special wires needed. What is needed, however, is some additional programming to get all the devices networked. It's a choice to shift toward programming complexity over physical complexity. CAN has made software development more challenging, but it has had many more positive effects: significant cost savings to the consumer, much lighter weight, reduced reliance on rubber and copper resources, and far better reliability with fewer wires to break over time. Those attributes may be important from a technical standpoint, but the most profound effect of this shift toward programming is on vehicle diagnostics and software updates.

Car, Heal Thyself

The shrinking of the car's wiring harness and other benefits were not the main impetus for the creation of CAN. As pollution requirements matured in the late 1970s, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration and the California Air Resources Board demanded ways to monitor the effectiveness of vehicle-emissions-control systems. The result of that directive was the standardized On-Board Diagnostics protocol (now in its second generation, known as OBD-II) that required a CAN network to efficiently connect to all the engine sensors for a self-diagnosis. With this interconnection, a designated ECU can watch the network for problem reports broadcast to the network as OBD-II codes. If an ECU detects a problem, it broadcasts it as an alphanumeric code and the Check Engine light is turned on. Modern cars carry out these self-checks any time the car is running. Anyone with a handheld code reader (see Digital Diagnostics) can plug into the standard 16-pin data port in the driver footwell and retrieve fault codes. An Internet search will usually explain the fault or at least give a hint at the problem.

That same data port also comes in handy if a manufacturer uncovers a computer glitch or wants to modify how the car operates. For example, a carmaker may develop an algorithm for smoother transmission shifts. Installing it in any customer car is as simple as a dealer technician plugging his computer into the data port and uploading the new software. Before CAN, this would've meant physically replacing an ECU.
Peeking Behind the Digital Curtain

The heavy tinkerers out there know all about the ability to reprogram, or hack, a car. Manufacturers frown on the practice, of course—it will void your warranty—but not everyone can resist the urge to reverse-engineer code and make a few changes. Unless you're sporting a computer-engineering degree, hacking into the system directly is inadvisable (if you accidentally grenade your engine, you'll be left with a car-shaped driveway ornament), although some aftermarket products make interacting with your car's network quite rewarding, especially if you're a speed freak. Mechanics in hot-rod shops, who modify engines for more horsepower, have been successfully reprogramming cars for at least a decade. But, remember, they're professionals.

WHAT'S NEXT: Wired Like the Web

Your car's electronics network may be sophisticated, but as the amount of data it handles increases over time, it will have to be upgraded. Most likely, cars will adopt an Ethernet-based system such as VEEDIMS, the one in the high-tech Iconic AC Roadster. VEEDIMS assigns each vehicle component an IP address so that centralized and remote computers can pass around huge amounts of information. Attach a cellular connection and data can be beamed to the cloud for analysis. Dealer visits for software upgrades could be replaced by a download. What's holding all this back? Legacy costs. It would take billions to re-create the software. But car Ethernet is coming—someday.

courtesy: popularmechanics

DO'S AND DONT'S

It is absolutely wrong to change spark plugs when an engine is hot!

Plugs have steel shells
Most engines have aluminum cylinder heads
So
The steel shell of the plug can destroy the aluminum cylinder head of the engine if it is installed or removed when the engine is hot
By allowing the engine to cool completely, you prevent heat expansion locking the plug into the head and thus ruin an otherwise perfect setup (not forgetting digging a deep hole in your pocket)

DO'S AND DON'TS

HOW TO CHANGE BATTERIES

The negative battery cable(black) should be removed from the old battery before the positive battery cable(red) is

The positive battery cable(red) should be installed in the new battery before the negative battery cable(black) is

Take precautions to ensure that there is no spark or arc near the battery! It can explode or you can short-circuit important components resulting in expensive repairs

AutoElectNG:

Why if i may ask would you want to increase the idle speed?

The idling speed is low (680 rpm) and the makes the engine stall during idling.

phibetakappa:

The idling speed is low (680 rpm) and the makes the engine stall during idling.

Do you have any codes that might suggest any underlying problems to be resolved before doing what you want to do? such as vacuum leaks.

You have got to tune up the engine first to eliminate a poorly running running engine before going this route you are suggesting - team up with a trusted mechanic to sort that out first, before trying what you are thinking of.

phibetakappa:
Can the idling speed be increased using the diagnostic machine. The car is a 2007 VW Touareg {gasoline} V6.

Have you consulted your manual? to confirm that the idle is not within specifications?

This may be a problem known to the manufacturer.

Please investigate this:

TSB DESCRIPTION: VOLKSWAGEN: GASOLINE ENGINES HAVE ROUGH IDLE, HAVE SIGNIFICANT LOSS OF POWER OR STALLING WITH REDUCED PERFORMANCE.

DATE REPORTED: FEBRUARY 10, 2012

NHTSA REFERENCE: #10043602

TSB REFERENCE: #TB-01-12-04

Some more pointers to assist you:

Spark plugs? when last changed?
Coil change? when last changed?
EGR valve full of carbon? Can it be cleaned?
Dirty injectors?

DO'S AND DON'TS

Before removing plugs, inspect the surrounding area for collected debris. This must be cleaned before the plug is removed.

If this debris finds its way into the cylinder or the plug seat, you could end up with damaged piston or cylinder walls, or correct sealing and heat transfer between the plug and the cylinder head will be next to impossible.