Doslop:
I saw a Hyundai Sonata 2012 online and I liked the car so I called the seller and arranged for someone I know who is a driver he drives from Warri where I reside to Lagos every day so I told him to help me check out the car, since he’s a driver he should know about cars. So he got there checked the car and told me it is a perfect car that I should pay so I paid and he brought it to me.
When the car got home I started it and immediately I told him I don’t like the sound of the engine that it is too loud and he said it is fine I shouldn’t worry that’s how the car is.
When I drove it I discovered all the bearings on four legs were bad so I changed them the next day, and did lots of maintenance on it.
Fast forward exactly one week later which is yesterday I started hearing a metallic sound from the engine while I was driving so I quickly rushed to park the car. On calling a mechanic this morning he said the it is crankshaft and connecting rod noise that they have to dismantle the engine and change them or he’ll advise me to buy a new engine that if they repair the one on it it wouldn’t last at all.
I am here regretting my life who sent me to buy this car!

aieromon:


The engine is notorious for sudden failures at 100,000 miles. Do not bother with repairs. Get a replacement and please get one verified as low mileage using VIN service history providers.

promotervickky:
This is what happens to you when you fail to run a VINCheck.

Doslop:

I ran the VIn and the car seemed okay

ArewaOduduwaBia:

Why did u buy a tokunbo car, don't you know where they sell the new one? I wonder when u people will stop patronising tokunbo/fairly used stuff.

Doslop:

I ran the VIn and the car seemed okay

Okay, did you scan? You can return the car to the dealers

Doslop:
I saw a Hyundai Sonata 2012 online and I liked the car so I called the seller and arranged for someone I know who is a driver he drives from Warri where I reside to Lagos every day so I told him to help me check out the car, since he’s a driver he should know about cars. So he got there checked the car and told me it is a perfect car that I should pay so I paid and he brought it to me.
When the car got home I started it and immediately I told him I don’t like the sound of the engine that it is too loud and he said it is fine I shouldn’t worry that’s how the car is.
When I drove it I discovered all the bearings on four legs were bad so I changed them the next day, and did lots of maintenance on it.
Fast forward exactly one week later which is yesterday I started hearing a metallic sound from the engine while I was driving so I quickly rushed to park the car. On calling a mechanic this morning he said the it is crankshaft and connecting rod noise that they have to dismantle the engine and change them or he’ll advise me to buy a new engine that if they repair the one on it it wouldn’t last at all.
I am here regretting my life who sent me to buy this car!

Doslop:

I ran the VIn and the car seemed okay

aieromon:


The engine is notorious for sudden failures at 100,000 miles. Do not bother with repairs. Get a replacement and please get one verified as low mileage using VIN service history providers.

GAZZUZZ:
450k plus loading....


Cc inception

chukel:
you made a comment and gave an opposite advice. If there is sudden failure at 100k miles, then he has no business buying one less than 100k miles. He should look for one with at least 130k miles.

chukel:
ignore that one shouting Vin check up and down. He thinks a vin check will tell a bad engine. Okpo.

adanny01:


The issue with crank shaft is that you hardly can know exactly what the problem is without removing it.

However, since the car is parked at the moment, get a good mechanic to remove the engine sump (bottom plate) and check the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft journals. You could be lucky if its the connecting rod bearings, you can replace the bearings with a new and maybe pack them. I did same to a car and it has been 2yrs with no issues. Most mechanics will not want to work under the car like that and would prefer to drop off the engine. This procedure could also be complicated by the presence of oil pump in some cars.

If the issue is main bearings or crankshaft main bearing journals, just get a toks engine.

GAZZUZZ:


It has turbo.... ₦800,000k plus

Inception:



Bros bros

Not with this kind of engine o

Any engine rebuilder that does not have micrometers, callipers, torque wrenches and dial bore gauge (or he has but does not know how to use them) has no business rebuilding these Hyundai engines.

They are very tolerance sensitive and you must respect the specifications as stated in the service manual, if not engine will seize again after 5 km drive

Inception:



Bros bros

Not with this kind of engine o

Any engine rebuilder that does not have micrometers, callipers, torque wrenches and dial bore gauge (or he has but does not know how to use them) has no business rebuilding these Hyundai engines.

They are very tolerance sensitive and you must respect the specifications as stated in the service manual, if not engine will seize again after 5 km drive

adanny01:


That's not what am saying. Am not talking of rebuilding at all.

What am saying is, if the crankshaft noise is actually worn out connecting rod bearing or crankshaft journals, then the fix is easier which doesn't require the engine to be dropped or rebuilt. Connecting rod bearings and journal are accessible from the sump without dropping the engine. Pls note, I am talking about connecting rod bearings, not crankshaft main bearing or thrust bearings.

I had it done on 1zz and its been 2yrs. In that case, the connecting rod bearings were worn and journal for cylinder 3 was a little out of spec. All the connecting rod bearings were changed to new and number 3 required additional packing. The packing was just paper.

Like I said before, some cars have oil pump that block access, which complicates the process because the pump will need to give way.

Doslop:
I saw a Hyundai Sonata 2012 online and I liked the car so I called the seller and arranged for someone I know who is a driver he drives from Warri where I reside to Lagos every day so I told him to help me check out the car, since he’s a driver he should know about cars. So he got there checked the car and told me it is a perfect car that I should pay so I paid and he brought it to me.
When the car got home I started it and immediately I told him I don’t like the sound of the engine that it is too loud and he said it is fine I shouldn’t worry that’s how the car is.
When I drove it I discovered all the bearings on four legs were bad so I changed them the next day, and did lots of maintenance on it.
Fast forward exactly one week later which is yesterday I started hearing a metallic sound from the engine while I was driving so I quickly rushed to park the car. On calling a mechanic this morning he said the it is crankshaft and connecting rod noise that they have to dismantle the engine and change them or he’ll advise me to buy a new engine that if they repair the one on it it wouldn’t last at all.
I am here regretting my life who sent me to buy this car!

chukel:
you made a comment and gave an opposite advice. If there is sudden failure at 100k miles, then he has no business buying one less than 100k miles. He should look for one with at least 130k miles.

chukel:
Op, before you change that engine, make sure its not the turbo's actuator wastegate that is rattling. Let a good technician who is grounded in knowledge of this car check it out. Can you make an audio of the sound. Then snap your instrument cluster while car is on.

9icetoo:

Contact Gazzuzz, he may be able to help you source for a low mileage engine.

GAZZUZZ:


It has turbo.... ₦800,000k plus

adanny01:


The issue with crank shaft is that you hardly can know exactly what the problem is without removing it.

However, since the car is parked at the moment, get a good mechanic to remove the engine sump (bottom plate) and check the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft journals. You could be lucky if its the connecting rod bearings, you can replace the bearings with a new and maybe pack them. I did same to a car and it has been 2yrs with no issues. Most mechanics will not want to work under the car like that and would prefer to drop off the engine. This procedure could also be complicated by the presence of oil pump in some cars.

If the issue is main bearings or crankshaft main bearing journals, just get a toks engine.

adanny01:


That's not what am saying. Am not talking of rebuilding at all.

What am saying is, if the crankshaft noise is actually worn out connecting rod bearing or crankshaft journals, then the fix is easier which doesn't require the engine to be dropped or rebuilt. Connecting rod bearings and journal are accessible from the sump without dropping the engine. Pls note, I am talking about connecting rod bearings, not crankshaft main bearing or thrust bearings.

I had it done on 1zz and its been 2yrs. In that case, the connecting rod bearings were worn and journal for cylinder 3 was a little out of spec. All the connecting rod bearings were changed to new and number 3 required additional packing. The packing was just paper.

Like I said before, some cars have oil pump that block access, which complicates the process because the pump will need to give way.

promotervickky:


Okay, did you scan? You can return the car to the dealers

Inception:


The peculiar failure point of this engine is its connecting rod bearings ( usually no.1 and in some cases no2 and 3). In some cases it starts with a knock. In some cases it seizes without warning. What causes the former most of the time is metal shavings present in the crankshaft (as it was not properly cleaned after machining from factory). What causes the latter most of the time is oil shortage ( in which over time will lead to extreme oil consumption that will catch the owner unawares when he runs out of oil, particularly during long distances) due to the very thin piston ring design used in the theta II engine series.

Why am I saying all these grammar? It gives us an insight of how to tackle the issues when working on this engine. The tolerances used on this engine are very tight compared to the 1zz engine. Using 'packing' can completely close up oil film clearance or make it too lose , causing catastrophic drop in oil pressure. The oil pump for this engine is not great. Hence if the rebuild option is the only choice , the crankshaft must be replaced and measured, with bearings sized as per manufacturers spec.
To avoid this happening again, it is also advisable you ring the engine as most suffer from excessive oil consumption once they hit 100,000 miles.

Changing all conrod bearing would require a removal of the engine as there is a ladder frame present that would prevent you from reaching conrod bearings 2 and 3. The oil pump/balance shaft assy is bolted to this ladder frame.

lyort:
ahhhhhh! lobatan. you were making sense all the while, but now, you just messed it all up
What the hell is a paper doing in the main reciprocating components of an engine. i'm sure the owner of that car is a pokey driver and not a maniac like me, i'll bet that paper you used to park the con rod bearing will give way within one week of my driving. i have zero tolerance when it comes to engine repair and overhaul and at every worse case scenario if i have to make a compromise, it must not be too far from the manufacturer's standard.