I made a post about my engine oil light n d fact dat I heard a rattling noise while driving. D thing is my mechanic has diagonised sludge in d engine, n said d cranshaft was cut by one metal only in d 1999 camry v6 engine. The tin is besides changin d oil pump filter n cleaning d sludge, he said he cud give d cranshaft to a good repairer to fix it before he reassembles evrything. Dis option he gave me rather dan buyin a new engine since d oil pump, rings, valves and engine block are ok. House pls shud I take d option of dese repairs as he has made an estimate of less dan 40k instead of buying a new engine.

llade: I made a post about my engine oil light n d fact dat I heard a rattling noise while driving. D thing is my mechanic has diagonised sludge in d engine, n said d cranshaft was cut by one metal only in d 1999 camry v6 engine. The tin is besides changin d oil pump filter n cleaning d sludge, he said he cud give d cranshaft to a good repairer to fix it before he reassembles evrything. Dis option he gave me rather dan buyin a new engine since d oil pump, rings, valves and engine block are ok. House pls shud I take d option of dese repairs as he has made an estimate of less dan 40k instead of buying a new engine.

No merits: forget that route. There is a lot to the manufacturing of a crankshaft and it is to several thousandth to tolerance plus a fair knowledge of "instrumentation" is needed to even out the centripetal forces. Any mistake in the thousandth will give an undesired outcome (short/long-run). Designing a crankshaft has a lot of discipline to it and it must be right. The manufacturing method is by cooling the molten metal in a cast, so there are no welds or seams. You cannot repair it (at least to the cost you are anticipating) and then replant it and expect it to work without the adequate pre-production phases. A couple of thousandths to a hairline crack is sufficient to cause a catastrophic engine failure due to heat and forces exerted on the crank per revolution. I hope I have conveyed something over.

Get a new engine instead. I wouldn't trust whosoever that anticipates rebuilding the engine. The unknowns of the new engine far out-depends what you plan to rebuild. Having your car on your mind and your mind on your car is not "cute." There are other things in life than to worry about a car and worse of all, depleting the bank account. Do an engine transplant, synchronise the engine with the transmission and you are good to go; plus is a lot cheaper in the immediate-run and the long-run: you only worry about wear-and-tear. Toyota's are prone to sludge. It is just how the engines are designed. You do a minor oil change and a major oil change.

@Trac are you saying crankshafts can't be worked on. vis a vis cutting and smoothness professionals?

smartchoice: @Trac are you saying crankshafts can't be worked on. vis a vis cutting and smoothness professionals?

Don't even be tempted. A crankshaft is cast in manufacturing. Don't patronise anyone that does this. It does not make any kind of sense plus it is "malpractice" to do such. I have pretty much summarised it above. Anything else will be too complicated because it will be interdisciplinary in subject. Engineers don't do such; hence the reason why I stated "malpractice."

@Trac, Kindly throw more light on Toyota's being prone to sludge and Minor and Major oil changing. I have a Camry that I want to last as longas possible for me. Thanks.

not all toyotas are prone to sludge.
causes of sludge are
1. not changing ur oil when due.........if u r using normal oil ie 20w 50...visco 2000, mobil xhp, etc, its recommened u change it every 1500 to 2000 miles or 30 to 45 days wchever comes first...mileage or days.dino oil as its normally called degenaratyes over time...so even if the car was driven less than 50miles and was parked for 1 month after being driven...the oil is halfway bad already...its recommened u change it soon, this is cos the make up of the oil is affected by heat,

2. cars that are driven less than 40miles per day, day in day out, are also prone to sludge as since dino oil contains traces of water...when its driven for short distances, the the engine doesnt heat up enough to evaporate the water, thus it ends up remaining in the system.....imagine pouring small amt of water into red oil or gnut oil...that will give u an idea of the state of the oil in ur car..if u do only short distances....

synthtic oil 0w 40, 10w 30 etc..such as mobil 1 , total 7000 etc...are more expensive but are better in not forming sludge in the engine...the r rated for 5000 to 7000 miles and 4 to 6months duration...thus they are better, if u r the type that dont like changing ur oil regularly

cretin: not all toyotas are prone to sludge.
causes of sludge are
1. not changing ur oil when due.........if u r using normal oil ie 20w 50...visco 2000, mobil xhp, etc, its recommened u change it every 1500 to 2000 miles or 30 to 45 days wchever comes first...mileage or days.dino oil as its normally called degenaratyes over time...so even if the car was driven less than 50miles and was parked for 1 month after being driven...the oil is halfway bad already...its recommened u change it soon, this is cos the make up of the oil is affected by heat,

2. cars that are driven less than 40miles per day, day in day out, are also prone to sludge as since dino oil contains traces of water...when its driven for short distances, the the engine doesnt heat up enough to evaporate the water, thus it ends up remaining in the system.....imagine pouring small amt of water into red oil or gnut oil...that will give u an idea of the state of the oil in ur car..if u do only short distances....

synthtic oil 0w 40, 10w 30 etc..such as mobil 1 , total 7000 etc...are more expensive but are better in not forming sludge in the engine...the r rated for 5000 to 7000 miles and 4 to 6months duration...thus they are better, if u r the type that dont like changing ur oil regularly

I disagree.

Toyota engines maynot be the only engines prone to sludge, but i dont agree with you that Mineral oils, such as 20w 50, should be changed every 45 days or 2000 miles.

My car oil grade is 10w 40 Mineral oil. The owners manuals states "change every 7,500 km (5,000 miles) or at least twice yearly". How can you now say Mineral oils should be changed every 45 days or 2,000 miles?

In Peugeot 406 petrol engines repair manual, it states " change synthetic engine oil every 10,000 km (6,000 miles) or every 6 months".

Unless you are trying to tell us that Toyota engines are too fragile to stand that long use of both mineral and synthetic oils?

Ikenna.

ru sure the oil 10w 40 is mineral and not synthetic?..pls am really interested in knowing the name/brand of this oil......cos its usually synthetic oils that have that pour range

pls give us the name..am interested in buying such oil..as the 20w 50 oil is not the recommended oil for my car, the 10w 40 is nearer...but i only find synthetics in the 10w 40 range

cretin: ru sure the oil 10w 40 is mineral and not synthetic?..pls am really interested in knowing the name/brand of this oil......cos its usually synthetic oils that have that pour range

pls give us the name..am interested in buying such oil..as the 20w 50 oil is not the recommended oil for my car, the 10w 40 is nearer...but i only find synthetics in the 10w 40 range

Give you the brand name I know? TOTAL.

If you are in Abuja, you can come to my place and i will show you the owners manual of my 1987 Peugeot 505 V6. I will also show you the owners manual of my dad's 1977 Peugeot 504 GL (foreign assembly). I also have the owners manual of 1983 Peugeot 505 SR (PAN). The 3 manuals instructed that 10w 40 be used. If they meant 10w 40 synthetic based, it would have been stated.

To make it clearer for you, we have 10w 40 mineral oil & 10w 40 semi synthetic.

Get more clarification below:

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/synthetic-oil-vs-regular-oil.html


Ikenna

well u n i hv our points..it appears bmw n peugoet engines are built with better designs as most bmw engines hv 10000 - 20000 mile oil change interval, but i had a toyota car that i let the conventional oil stay in the car for 3months plus...[was away for 1month out of the 3months]...n when i went to change the oil..i had sludge...thick gooey stuff coming out, and the oil was discoloured, n rust brown in colour..[mobil xhp 20w 50], since then i never let my oil stay that long n i later switched to synthetic[mobil 1] n it stays 4months no issue.

also the link u posted below still surpports my theory.

3. When to Use What
As we know, conventional motor oil that is derived from crude oil has an uneven molecular structure. This makes it suitable for new engines. The internal surfaces of the new engine, though shaped and forged very beautifully are not hundred percent accurate. Due to this, the inner surface of the piston block and the surface of the piston itself becomes extremely accurate, as the excess and inaccurate points (which are technically known faults) on the surfaces get shredded off as a result of the friction and heat. The uneven molecules aid this evening out of the auto components. There are, however, two drawbacks of this type of oil. The first drawback is that the regular oil gets oxidized at a very high temperature, which results into creation of pollutants. In same way, at very low temperatures, formation of sludge occurs which renders the oil, useless.

The synthetic oil, on the other hand, does not have any type of drawback, when it comes to extreme temperatures and air pollution. This type of oil is gives very good results, when it is used for car engines that are a few years old. The synthetic oil is extremely instrumental, when it comes to preservation of the engine components and ensures excellent running of the engine. The only drawback is that the synthetic oil, in present day market, is rather costly.
Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/synthetic-oil-vs-regular-oil.html

Subtext: @Trac, Kindly throw more light on Toyota's being prone to sludge and Minor and Major oil changing. I have a Camry that I want to last as longas possible for me. Thanks.

Subtext, I cannot answer your question on how Toyota engines sludge because I've never seen one (though heard of someone that experienced it). In the last decade, Toyota offered service at their own cost (I think they replaced the engines) for oil sludges as long as you can prove that you maintained all oil interval changes. This is how I got to know of it.

Minor and major oil changes: I came across this when I was to perform engine service on an Audi. The Audi service document stated that major and minor oil changes respectively every 5,000 miles. In other words, minor is done at one interval and major done at the other. This caught my attention because I came across a person that stated that engine flushes were ideal for Porshe's and VW's.

By the way, don't use 20w 50 weight oil in any Camry. Heavy duty trucks do not use such weight and they offer some serious tow capabilities and engine operates at far higher stresses under loads than what the Camry can ever attain.

well most of the cheap oil in nigeria 20w 50, visco 2000, mobil xhp, seahorse etc........n thats what the average nigerian is using to service his car.......i was still part of that group until 18months ago.......now i use mobil 1 0w 40 4k miles/4months change interval......oil is cheap...i rather change my oil too frequently than wreck my motor cos of inadequate oil change....
i know the heart ache i had when i had sludge in my toyota engine.......cos it took a while to eventually clear out all the sludge n stop the oil lamp from coming on intermittently...never wanna go down that route again!

cretin: well most of the cheap oil in nigeria 20w 50, visco 2000, mobil xhp, seahorse etc........n thats what the average nigerian is using to service his car.......i was still part of that group until 18months ago.......now i use mobil 1 0w 40 4k miles/4months change interval......oil is cheap...i rather change my oil too frequently than wreck my motor cos of inadequate oil change....
i know the heart ache i had when i had sludge in my toyota engine.......cos it took a while to eventually clear out all the sludge n stop the oil lamp from coming on intermittently...never wanna go down that route again!

Using 0w-40 in a Camry or Japanese car of like-specification will spoil the engine. 20w-50 will accelerate the mishap. Why not get a standard 50 weight oil; its cheaper and the same damage [still] occurs.

If you use M1, you do not need to change the oil every 4 months or 4,000 miles. You can replace it every 12 months or 12,000 miles or go the entire route and replace in 15 months, 15000 miles. 0w-40 M1 or any oil is not to be installed on any Japanese car (maybe a Suburu). The formulation is different and does not subscribe to the Japanese philosophy of production engines.

In my personal experience, I use oil for more than 12/15 months. I never believed in all that 2 month rhetoric. The crude type should be avoided.

Trac:

No merits: forget that route. There is a lot to the manufacturing of a crankshaft and it is to several thousandth to tolerance plus a fair knowledge of "instrumentation" is needed to even out the centripetal forces. Any mistake in the thousandth will give an undesired outcome (short/long-run). Designing a crankshaft has a lot of discipline to it and it must be right. The manufacturing method is by cooling the molten metal in a cast, so there are no welds or seams. You cannot repair it (at least to the cost you are anticipating) and then replant it and expect it to work without the adequate pre-production phases. A couple of thousandths to a hairline crack is sufficient to cause a catastrophic engine failure due to heat and forces exerted on the crank per revolution. I hope I have conveyed something over.

Get a new engine instead. I wouldn't trust whosoever that anticipates rebuilding the engine. The unknowns of the new engine far out-depends what you plan to rebuild. Having your car on your mind and your mind on your car is not "cute." There are other things in life than to worry about a car and worse of all, depleting the bank account. Do an engine transplant, synchronise the engine with the transmission and you are good to go; plus is a lot cheaper in the immediate-run and the long-run: you only worry about wear-and-tear. Toyota's are prone to sludge. It is just how the engines are designed. You do a minor oil change and a major oil change.

@Trac in a situation like this is there any advantage of getting a brand new crankshaft to replace the worn crankshaft instead of getting a Tokunbo engine with an unknown mileage?

Please advise

Good evening peeps!!! pls i need aan advice on my engine... i was problem with my engine from shortage of oil to white smoke and mech checked and told me my cylinder is bad,the valve seal is damaged and the block is damged as well and need to ring the piston totalling N45,000 and promised me good engine that will last for another 2 years. I need a professional advice as in the cost of tokunbo 1MZ-FE and factors on how can i get a good one? help a disturb mind

Waiting for a response

Please I need advice. I went to buy a toyota corolla 2000 five days ago from portharcout and on my way back to benin it started making a serious sound. We then changed the oil completely with four litres of oil but few minutes from there is started the sound again and the car stopped. A mechanic inspected it and said that the crankshaft is damaged and changing just the crankshaft will solve it. Please is the engine going to last as usual or it may need replacement as I have not asked him to start the repair.

andymoorey:
Please I need advice. I went to buy a toyota corolla 2000 five days ago from portharcout and on my way back to benin it started making a serious sound. We then changed the oil completely with four litres of oil but few minutes from there is started the sound again and the car stopped. A mechanic inspected it and said that the crankshaft is damaged and changing just the crankshaft will solve it. Please is the engine going to last as usual or it may need replacement as I have not asked him to start the repair.

Grinding crankshafts is a normal part of rebuilding an engine. It's very common and should be very common.

Nigeria is creating environmental horror by disposing of truly serviceable engines.

The issue is to make sure that he takes your crankshaft to a good machine shop.

Most crankshafts can be ground at least three times. Ten over, twenty over, thirty over and even more. Come crankshafts can even be welded and reground to zero.

Will grounded crankshaft still last some years please and will it actually start to smoke as some persons suggest?

It depends on the expertise of the mechanic and the usage of the car. I bought crankshaft twice for my car within a space of three months and the engine still knocked. I finally bought a new engine which I am enjoying with peace of mind.