My company recently gave me a Toyota Prado 2006 manual gear with Auxillary for site inspection. My work usually is site inspection which involves off roads and occasionally involves a bull dozer ahead to clear the road. Although it was refurbished from an accident it had but most systems are working fine. I learnt from the mechanics that they had to replace its 'clutch plate'. My boss who is an 'I too know' went for a test drive but came back with a burning smell which i guess its the clutch plate again. Starting from stop makes the car vibrate after he did that test. Another problem is starting from stop going uphill, it makes a sound that i hear from under the car.

I was handed the car with aux light lit on the instrument panel. but the aux was at N position. When i move it to H position the light goes off but when on N or L the light is lit.

Having never used aux before i cant say exactly what is wrong or whether the gear is actually engaged or not. Though it moves at normal speed when its of at H position i still feel there is a problem. I also know from when it has been used in bad terrains that the low gear moves slow and raves the engine high.

At this point i hope ppl like SIENNA could possibly understand and advise.

adanny01: My company recently gave me a Toyota Prado 2006 manual gear with Auxillary for site inspection. My work usually is site inspection which involves off roads and occasionally involves a bull dozer ahead to clear the road. Although it was refurbished from an accident it had but most systems are working fine. I learnt from the mechanics that they had to replace its 'clutch plate'. My boss who is an 'I too know' went for a test drive but came back with a burning smell which i guess its the clutch plate again. Starting from stop makes the car vibrate after he did that test. Another problem is starting from stop going uphill, it makes a sound that i hear from under the car.

I was handed the car with aux light lit on the instrument panel. but the aux was at N position. When i move it to H position the light goes off but when on N or L the light is lit.

Having never used aux before i cant say exactly what is wrong or whether the gear is actually engaged or not. Though it moves at normal speed when its of at H position i still feel there is a problem. I also know from when it has been used in bad terrains that the low gear moves slow and raves the engine high.

At this point i hope ppl like SIENNA could possibly understand and advise.

Generally speaking, an auxiliary transmission is a 2nd transmission that's bolted to the output of the 1st transmission to give you more gears by splitting the gear ratios of the 1st transmission. It's like a multiplier for the number of gears you have in the 1st transmission.

In your case, it seems that you have 10 gears if you have a 5 speed tranny but you should understand that the output of the aux tranny is based off the output of the main transmission. In other words, I think it is perfectly normal for the aux to rev the engine high when shifted to "L" at very low speeds.

However, it does sound like you have a problem with the aux tranny; I'll let the more mechanically inclined people chime in.

Am not sure if the prado has full time or part time 4WD. Part time 4WDs are meant to be switched into 4WD only when the need arises, doing so on pavement would end up destroying ur transmission.can U̶̲̥̅̊ give a description of d settings on the AUX? Are there settings for 2WD hi,4WD hi and 4WD lo ? Is the vehicle a 4 or 6cyl? Elaborate.

Its called a differential,leave it on H, don't use any with L it meant to get you out of sh*t hole for muddy low speed only never on dry land.
I think N is to disconnect transfer case so it can be towed

Am not sure if the prado has full time or part time 4WD. Part time 4WDs are meant to be switched into 4WD only when the need arises, doing so on pavement would end up destroying ur transmission.can U̶̲̥̅̊ give a description of d settings on the AUX? Are there settings for 2WD hi,4WD hi and 4WD lo ? Is the vehicle a 4 or 6cyl? Elaborate.

Sorry for the late reply, its due to internet problems i have in my new location.

It has a part time 4wd engaged only by the auxilary gear. No other switches for on and off. Normally once the aux gear is moved from N the 4wd is lit on the instrument panel.

I understand that the rear axle works full time and the front is engaged by aux. Its engine is I4 2.7litre just like Hilux.

I took the car to mechanic to manually check the status of the aux since it is a little confused on the light issue i explained earlier and high fuel consumption. They confirmed my fear that the aux is damaged, usually the gear cannot be disengaged. So, the car is actually on full time all wheel drive now, which does not change from the movement of the auxilary gear even to Lo gear.

They gave me an option of removing the auxilary 'propeller shaft', which will disengage the front tires from driving. I will consider that only when i am traveling long distance and put back when am back to work as i visit off road sites.

I was told the aux can be replaced for about 60k with not much guarantees. A mech in Abuja asked for 15 to repair it.

adanny01:

Sorry for the late reply, its due to internet problems i have in my new location.

It has a part time 4wd engaged only by the auxilary gear. No other switches for on and off. Normally once the aux gear is moved from N the 4wd is lit on the instrument panel.

I understand that the rear axle works full time and the front is engaged by aux. Its engine is I4 2.7litre just like Hilux.

I took the car to mechanic to manually check the status of the aux since it is a little confused on the light issue i explained earlier and high fuel consumption. They confirmed my fear that the aux is damaged, usually the gear cannot be disengaged. So, the car is actually on full time all wheel drive now, which does not change from the movement of the auxilary gear even to Lo gear.

They gave me an option of removing the auxilary 'propeller shaft', which will disengage the front tires from driving. I will consider that only when i am traveling long distance and put back when am back to work as i visit off road sites.

I was told the aux can be replaced for about 60k with not much guarantees. A mech in Abuja asked for 15 to repair it.

There is nothing wrong with you driving your 4wd truck in that mode all the time it should be like that, IF your gear has a 2wd mode on it then you can leave it in 2wd, but it your case you have Lo, N, and Hi. Lo is for getting out of mud,sand,gravel when stuck, N is for towing your truck so you don't drag your system and Hi is for regular driving. In 4wd the rear wheel is still the main drive wheel, the front one kicks in stronger when rear wheels start slipping

Well comprehended.

The main problem i have is the aux selection. It has this light on the instrument panel that shows when an aux gear is selected. The funny thing is that it goes off when i select Hi but comes on on all other positions of the aux gear selector including N. Also moving it to whatever position does not changes its status as it still remains on 4wd. I know hw it should feel on Lo but it doesnt.

I tried to compare with a hilux my colleague drives which has the same system. The hilux drives on 2wd only when the aux gear is in N position and no light shows.

My office just started complaining on he amount of fuel i consume (Not my fault). Av been directed to fix it as sson as possible to increase mileage.

adanny01: Well comprehended.

The main problem i have is the aux selection. It has this light on the instrument panel that shows when an aux gear is selected. The funny thing is that it goes off when i select Hi but comes on on all other positions of the aux gear selector including N. Also moving it to whatever position does not changes its status as it still remains on 4wd. I know hw it should feel on Lo but it doesnt.

I tried to compare with a hilux my colleague drives which has the same system. The hilux drives on 2wd only when the aux gear is in N position and no light shows.

My office just started complaining on he amount of fuel i consume (Not my fault). Av been directed to fix it as sson as possible to increase mileage.

HL and LL should only be used on slippery surface Your truck should not move on N because it should uncouple the transfer case from the transmission.
N on transmission separate it from engine. Light might not come on because its suppose to be in H and others light to indicate you are running from normal setting.
read this http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119301

http://www.rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/4WD-AWD-autoAWD.html

Your selector should look like in pic.

If problem is with fuel consumption check dash display for avg mpg, and if your check engine light is on scan it

@Sultaan
Your selector should look like in pic.

If problem is with fuel consumption check dash display for avg mpg, and if your check engine light is on scan it

First, thanks for ur assistance.

Yes, the selector is exactly that.

No check engine or any other light shows.

After testing the way you described, it worked that way especially the Lo and N. I cant tell about the HL but it seems normal drive is the H.

So if i conclude the aux is ok i can equally conclude the car is full time Awd/4wd.

Now i know that the axillary gear system is fine.

However i still have problems with this car.

First fuel consumption is so high. i have calculated about 4.0- 4.5 km/liter with a/c which i feel is so terrible.It consumes about 23 liters per 100km. Also, that car has no visible smoke put the smoke is painful to the eye. It also jerks just after hard acceleration. A mechanic suggested i change the Air flow meter/sensor which causes similar problems. I checked online and found out that thats true. Am only scared that after i change it and mileage does not improve i would have a problem with my boss who has been complaining of low mileage of the car. If my boss bives me money to do this repair, he will instantly reduce my fuel allocation which if thr repair does not work, i shall be running at limited fuel allocation.

Secondly, the clutch had a little vibration when starting from zero. This vibration is increasing and more significantly when i have been driving all day. I also notice a small noise when shifting into gear 2 at zero speed. Most times gear 1 is hard to engage when stationary but easier when i put two first then move to 1. So often it makes that small noise shifting to gear 2. Knowing from my former car, this problems are caused by clutch plate or disc. The problem is, if i want to address this, what is the possibility that only the clutch plate has a problem and not the other disc (don't know its name).

I'm sorry but isn't your company putting too much of the car's responsibility on you? When do you have time to think of the job itself? I wouldn't like that. And I'd expect a company to have a driver and specific service center. But then, yours may be different.

@ skyfall
I'm sorry but isn't your company putting too much of the car's responsibility on you? When do you have time to think of the job itself? I wouldn't like that. And I'd expect a company to have a driver and specific service center. But then, yours may be different.

They are as a matter of fact. They dont appreciate it to worsen the matter. The reason my other colleague doesnt have a car is because he is incapacitated to drive, they do not want to spend additional money on a driver/mechanic. The more u demand from them the less u get. They prefer u buy it for personal use they pay u for using it. Eg they will not buy a modem, they prefer i buy the modem they subscribe. B4 i used my private car for work, they buy fuel and service. I got tired and sold the car they had no option but to provide themselves.

A service company would be ideal, but u know, cost can get high with those companies, moreover its an accidented car.

My work does not require my attention every day so i have free time to attend to the car. Am just trying to recover the car after its accident.

I use intelligent road side mechanics to tell me their opinions, i decide what will be done after much research of my own. I just use their hands, tools and some of their ideas. Imagine one mechanic telling me that my rear axle does not have a coil suspension spring even after he went under, i could not wait to get out of that workshop.

Take several pictures of the engine and exhaust system to check if any sensor is disconnected
Will also need to scan for a dtc code/mil /cel from a picture of dashboard with engine running
It is not burning all the fuel so its either sensor temp or ignition

Downloading the car's manual may also help. It gives you insight into how its transmission ought to work originally. Check this link.

www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-find-your-car-owners-manual-online.html

sultaan: Take several pictures of the engine and exhaust system to check if any sensor is disconnected
Will also need to scan for a dtc code/mil /cel from a picture of dashboard with engine running
It is not burning all the fuel so its either sensor temp or ignition

I do believe u want me to upload some pics.

The jerking is increasing at speeds of about 100km/hr and above and any anytime i accelerate hard with rpm above 3500. Mech just suggested buying new ignition plugs.

More pics

I looked and everything looks normal on those pictures.
First pic shows your mil light works, second shows its off with engine running and temp gage is normal(actually perfect)
Third pic shows exhaust pipe don't have build up of carbon so no black smoke and fourth your air intake system MAF intact hoses connected.

car has no visible smoke put the smoke is painful to the eye

In this situation its your fuel not getting burnt completely that should only happen at start up and will stop when the engine is warm as in your first 2 pics.

If your eyes are getting burnt while driving take a look at the exhaust pipe muffler and catalytic converter, if you drive offroad system might be dented cracked.

Don't mess with anything but just change your air filter in the box of the last picture,I'm assuming you are not getting enough air to burn the fuel.

If this truck is driven on bad roads all the time in gear 1&2 mostly your fuel economy is bad you may just have to run some fuel injector cleaner to help with your spray pattern 10mpg city is not far from 16mpg normal city.