Chekitaut:
Use waterproof cement to floor with tiles slope to floor drains, use flout switch. scaffolding is the best but also has its danger if not well done.

Thank you everybody. I think I will just go ahead and do scaffolding to avoid story that touches the heart.

Good day everyone,

What can cause this to the paint.
DPC was done at the foundation stage.
Any remedy for this.

Thank you

supajizy:
Good Day Guys. I am about to do my first setting out for bored pile. Please is it preferable to just mark out the centre point or the entire diameter. Thanks.

It is best you set out d entire diameter for excavation and then set out d center points afterwards. Consult an experienced surveyor for your points setting out. I am one

sako28:
Good day everyone,

What can cause this to the paint.
DPC was done at the foundation stage.
Any remedy for this.

Thank you

A German floor without a membrane or water proof admixtures won't completely prevent dampness of lower walls

Rubbiish:

A German floor without a membrane or water proof admixtures won't completely prevent dampness of lower walls

The german floor was with water proof membrane. And during construction there was nothing like this observed.

sako28:
Good day everyone,

What can cause this to the paint.
DPC was done at the foundation stage.
Any remedy for this.

Thank you

Is the place opposite bathroom or outside wall?
The paint has separated from the plaster and would have to be peeled and repainted.
For curiosity sake, was the wall screeded with basecoat (the ready mixed putty).
If the water is from the ground, I don't think there is much you can do than apply undercoat to seal it before re painting.
Hopefully better suggestions will come from the experts in the house.

sako28:



The german floor was with water proof membrane. And during construction there was nothing like this observed.

Then it may have to do with the painter & type of paint

gbadexy:

Is the place opposite bathroom or outside wall?
The paint has separated from the plaster and would have to be peeled and repainted.
For curiosity sake, was the wall screeded with basecoat (the ready mixed putty).
If the water is from the ground, I don't think there is much you can do than apply undercoat to seal it before re painting.
Hopefully better suggestions will come from the experts in the house.

Thank you,

Observed one at the balcony wall outside and another one in at the stairs wall. Non of them share wall with bathroom. To ur question the wall was screeded but not with ready mixed putty. Will like to know what to do. Your professional recommendation will highly be appreciated. Thanks one again.

Rubbiish:

Then it may have to do with the painter & type of paint

Thank you,
So which type of paint is good for this type of condition?

elengine:
Professionals in the house. Please I need your advice urgently. I have just plastered a duplex and I did a decking or slab for my water tank on top of the roof. I just realized during the heavy rain that the slab or decking where we have water tank on it is leaking. I see water finding their way from the water slab to the wall inside. Although my plumber has assured that he will fix everything but I am considering doing a scaffolding and put my tank on it. So I want to know if it is possible to fix the slab as claimed by plumber I should just go ahead and do the scaffolding. I was told that slab will always leak even if it is not now, it will leak later

Morning bro, this is my area of expertise and also a professional tiler. Please, if you have the money just go ahead and construct a scaffold for the water tank. No matter what you do water will always find its way just a matter of time.
I have in so many occasions tried using water proof cement for screening with lots of heights then tile. Bro, water still dey leak after some years.
God will provide for you just go and construct a scaffold and be at rest for life

Timothyoj:


Morning bro, this is my area of expertise and also a professional tiler. Please, if you have the money just go ahead and construct a scaffold for the water tank. No matter what you do water will always find its way just a matter of time.
I have in so many occasions tried using water proof cement for screening with lots of heights then tile. Bro, water still dey leak after some years.
God will provide for you just go and construct a scaffold and be at rest for life

May God bless you for the whole truth. Thank you all for your advice. I will begin to gather money for the scaffolding. Thanks

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sako28:


Thank you,

Observed one at the balcony wall outside and another one in at the stairs wall. Non of them share wall with bathroom. To ur question the wall was screeded but not with ready mixed putty. Will like to know what to do. Your professional recommendation will highly be appreciated. Thanks one again.

If the paint started swelling after rain fell and pool around the balcony and stairways, then it may be from water source across the wall and in that case, using a waterproof paint would reduce or stop it.
If water doesn't collect there during rain or there is no other water visibly collecting there, then it could be a breach in the waterproof membrane in the floor and in that case, nothing much can be done but apply undercoat over that side of the wall. The water may find another weak spot to manifest and that side would have to be sealed also.

slimtestee:
Good evening sirs/mas. Please i need your inputs on these two quotations i got for the carpentry work of my parapet. The house dimensions total 208ft which is 63.4m. I actually thought that curves were gotten from plywoods, i don't know why they are both separated in the quotations. Please help me great engineers in the house.

Let handle the roofing part

elengine:


Thank you everybody. I think I will just go ahead and do scaffolding to avoid story that touches the heart

Come back here my friend! Please dont waste your money and time doing scaffolding.
It is not necessary, you have done a slab already, tackle the minor problem you have.

Use 1/10th of the money you want to use on a new scaffold, to improve your current slab.

If l understand you correctly, your "IN-ROOF" Tank is leaking water to your walls?
That is a small problem.

I like people to ANALYZE the PROBLEM and think through it, to set out a LOGICAL SOLUTION.

Possible Problems:
Weight: Your "in-roof" Slab, with its associated Pillars, can carry your tanks, so you dont have a problem there
LEAKAGE:
1.) Your Tanks is obviously overflowing, when it is full - (Solution): Buy a FLoat Switch (#3,500 max), call an electrician to install it for you. it will ensure that your tank does not overflow to pour water on your slab, by cutting-off th water supply, when it is filled to abut 90% of the tank, enough to have water but not enough to start wetting your Slab. (My own in-roof tank also doubles as my Store, with a staircase to walk into it and water has never dropped unot the floor, NEVER!). I used the "automatic Float switch". Cheap and useful.

2.) Let us assume, by some accident of badluck (Storm removed your roof completely or Pipe burst or some other unlikely event that allows water to pour on the slab of your "in-roof" tank house.
Obejctive: We want the water to just flow-out and not sink into the Slab or flow uncontrollably to wet walls.
Solution: Use Felt and/or Bitumen to first do a layer of flooring on your Slab. This is cheap enough and forms a water barrier between the Slab and what is ontop of it.
Then install Tiles (use thick tiles) on top of the flooring mentioned above, let it slope slightly towards one corner of the Tank house and then put a Pipe that sticks out for about 9" from the wall, to channel any water that manages to find its way to the floor, to flow out.
Better still, as l did in my own case, just entend the Pipe downwards (like l did my rain water from the roof) to a gutter that can be open or buried.

I dont feel happy when people waste money on minor things they can do with their brain, just by making a little effort.
Dont be worried or afraid, it will work, it is a tried and tetsed method.
Once your automatic floating switch is working, water will never touch your floor, talkless of it leaking to wet your walls. And that switch, with wiring and workmanship, will not cost you up to #15,000! Now compare that to the cost of a Scaffold, not to mention the floor space you will be wasting and the aesthetic beauty of your house you will be dstroying!

Thanks to other people like diordaves, Rubbish, bixton, Chekitaut, etc. who have made suggestions along this line. I just summaried all their opinions.

Timothyoj:


Morning bro, this is my area of expertise and also a professional tile[/b]r. Please, if you have the money just go ahead and construct a scaffold for the water tank.[b] No matter what you do water will always find its way just a matter of time.
I have in so many occasions tried using water proof cement for screening with lots of heights then tile. Bro, water still dey leak after some years.
God will provide for you just go and construct a scaffold and be at rest for life

You are a Tiler and you are probably just looking for a job!

Read my post above and FAULT IT if you can.
It is what l have done for my own house and not just once.

Secondly, that your statement l quoted above, is not used with Water at an elevated height like a Tank House.
In a tank house, the water can only SINK vertically downwards into the building.

That statement is used when CONSTANTLY FLOWING water is CONFINED to a certain space.
As the level of water increases, its pressure will also increase and eventually, it will overwhelm the containment, with pressure.
Thus, it will flow out at the point where the pressure is highest or the resistance is lowest (weakest point).

In this man's case, the source of water is his OVERFLOWING TANK.
An Automatic Float Switch will completely solve that problem. It will not allow the water to overflow and fall to the ground (slab) of the tank house.
So, if there is no water falling on the floor, how and which water are you saying will find its way?
And this cost less than #15,000! Why would you advice someone to come and spend over #150,000, for a problem that can be solved with #15,000?

Using waterproof cement (with all the fakes we have in Nigeria), has limited success.
Even using felt and Bitumen is better than using Waterproof cement for this kind of problem but the best solution is to PREVENT WATER FROM SPLASHING ON THE FLOOR.
There is a reason they say "Prevention is better than Cure".

I have this automatic Float Switch working in three "overhead, in-roof" tanks in the last six years and l have only changed ONE of them, when there was a power surge due to a mistake by a tenant of mine who swithced on both Generator and Public power supply, at the same time.
Aside that, the things have been working like magic.

Please, cam people who have float switch testify to this (installers like Rotech, Engineers and House owners).

Please, you are NOT an expert in this area and you have no experience in such plumbing work, not as an installer or as a house owner (You can be a good Tiler and he can still give you tilling job) so please, dont give "expert advice". Otherwise, you will know that his problem is a very simple one, using the right solution as l an dothers have suggested.


Anyway, why the matter dey pain me sef, is it my money that is about to be wasted.

elengine:



May God bless you for the whole truth. Thank you all for your advice. I will begin to gather money for the scaffolding. Thanks

Did l hear you say "truth'?
Read my first post. gather money but use it to install a water treatment plant or something more useful to you.
If you need more help on this or more clarification, just ask! it is free. That is what this thread is all about.
Free help that you would have paid good money for. We learn from one another, save each other money and stress.
Me sef don learn from here in the last six years or so and have saved money worth millions, that l would have wasted.
I am just giving back.

Takoro13:

my suggestion is that you shld take water away from your block walls though someone has addressed something like this before but I strongly believe water is most stubborn substance it will definitely find way to unnecessary places. get a separate water stand, sr. I am a novice ooo

pls boss for my little knowledge sir, gets separate water tanks scaffolding or concrete pillars out side, for futures popouses thanks

sako28:


Thank you,

Observed one at the balcony wall outside and another one in at the stairs wall. Non of them share wall with bathroom. To ur question the wall was screeded but not with ready mixed putty. Will like to know what to do. Your professional recommendation will highly be appreciated. Thanks one again.

Is this your building a storey building and is the problem occurring at the ground floor or upper floor?
Your mention of stairs made me to ask.

elengine:



May God bless you for the whole truth. Thank you all for your advice. I will begin to gather money for the scaffolding. Thanks

Before you go ahead to install a scaffolding base, kindly respond...

The slab/deck you placed your tank is it roofed or open?
The water leaking onto the deck, is it as a result of over flow from the tank or from rainfall?

bixton:


Before you go ahead to install a scaffolding base, kindly respond...

The slab/deck you placed your tank is it roofed or open?
The water leaking onto the deck, is it as a result of over flow from the tank or from rainfall?

Thanks bro. The deck is not roofed and the leaking is due to downpour. It is not caused by overflow. Thanks once again

Excuzeme:


Come back here my friend! Please dont waste your money and time doing scaffolding.
It is not necessary, you have done a slab already, tackle the minor problem you have.

Use 1/10th of the money you want to use on a new scaffold, to improve your current slab.

If l understand you correctly, your "IN-ROOF" Tank is leaking water to your walls?
That is a small problem.

I like people to ANALYZE the PROBLEM and think through it, to set out a LOGICAL SOLUTION.

Possible Problems:
Weight: Your "in-roof" Slab, with its associated Pillars, can carry your tanks, so you dont have a problem there
LEAKAGE:
1.) Your Tanks is obviously overflowing, when it is full - (Solution): Buy a FLoat Switch (#3,500 max), call an electrician to install it for you. it will ensure that your tank does not overflow to pour water on your slab, by cutting-off th water supply, when it is filled to abut 90% of the tank, enough to have water but not enough to start wetting your Slab. (My own in-roof tank also doubles as my Store, with a staircase to walk into it and water has never dropped unot the floor, NEVER!). I used the "automatic Float switch". Cheap and useful.

2.) Let us assume, by some accident of badluck (Storm removed your roof completely or Pipe burst or some other unlikely event that allows water to pour on the slab of your "in-roof" tank house.
Obejctive: We want the water to just flow-out and not sink into the Slab or flow uncontrollably to wet walls.
Solution: Use Felt and/or Bitumen to first do a layer of flooring on your Slab. This is cheap enough and forms a water barrier between the Slab and what is ontop of it.
Then install Tiles (use thick tiles) on top of the flooring mentioned above, let it slope slightly towards one corner of the Tank house and then put a Pipe that sticks out for about 9" from the wall, to channel any water that manages to find its way to the floor, to flow out.
Better still, as l did in my own case, just entend the Pipe downwards (like l did my rain water from the roof) to a gutter that can be open or buried.

I dont feel happy when people waste money on minor things they can do with their brain, just by making a little effort.
Dont be worried or afraid, it will work, it is a tried and tetsed method.
Once your automatic floating switch is working, water will never touch your floor, talkless of it leaking to wet your walls. And that switch, with wiring and workmanship, will not cost you up to #15,000! Now compare that to the cost of a Scaffold, not to mention the floor space you will be wasting and the aesthetic beauty of your house you will be dstroying!

Thanks to other people like diordaves, Rubbish, bixton, Chekitaut, etc. who have made suggestions along this line. I just summaried all their opinions.

God will bless you for showing love. Nobody want to waste his or her money of course. Not even at this time of change. That being said, my major concern is that the water is caused by heavy rain because the slab is not roofed. So when it rains, water will find its way into the house through different point. If I can be assured that this problem can be solved without unnecessarily do a scaffolding then I will be happy. Meanwhile we had tiles the house but we didn't felt and we didn't use anything at all. We just went ahead to tile it after decking

... double post

elengine:


God will bless you for showing love. Nobody want to waste his or her money of course. Not even at this time of change. That being said, my major concern is that the water is caused by heavy rain because the slab is not roofed. So when it rains, water will find its way into the house through different point. If I can be assured that this problem can be solved without unnecessarily do a scaffolding then I will be happy. Meanwhile we had tiles the house but we didn't felt and we didn't use anything at all. We just went ahead to tile it after decking

Like l said, we all learn from each other and we all hope to help each other to achieve good results, at the minimum cost.
Now, the problem is clearer, from your post.
L et me say that there is not one problem on this earth, that cannot be solved, with proper knowledge, materials and human effort.

In this problem (you wont be the first or the last person to experience this, so take it from me that others have solved this same challenge, on this thread), the solution can come from either of two ways:

1.) Prevent rain from entring that tank platform, through a small, additional and independent cover in form of a small roof coverage
2.) Make the floor of the Tank platform inpervious to water and waterproof ,using selected materials.
The Key objective here is to ensure that any water that hits your floor, does not sink into the floor but get directed into a pipe that channels it away to the floor.

Both of this options will cost a fraction fo what an outside scafold will cost and eliminates problems associated with scafold, like possible collapse of the scafold due to rust or windshear or rapid degradation of the tank itself, due to weather elements.

First, let me say that TILES though inpervious and eaterproof themselves, the fact that you have to join them together, makes room for leakage.
The materials also used to join them together (wateproof Cement or white cement) does not bond completely with the Tiles and as such, there will almost always be leakages. (think of that room next to a TILED bathroom, that experiences wet wall, on the side of wall adjacent to the bathroom ).
Even where you use say SILICONE to seal the joints, over time, the Silicone may weaken but since most bathrooms dont leak, it is as a result of the san/Cement mix under the Tiles, that prevent most leakage. So we need to pay more attention to what is under the Tiles, than what we put on top of the Tiles.

Option One would have been my choice if l knew how your roof looks like.
I have seen it done before but l dont have the pictures because l did not take the picture back then.

The way l did one of mine, people dont even know it is a Tank that was hidden there, most people think it is a "Penthouse/room" for some hideous activity that bigboys like to engage in. Most of the outward-facing side was covered in coloured glass block and when l put on the LED light inside the palce at night, it sure adss beauty to the building, especially when yo uare seeing it from afar at night when PHCN the Discos have taken light and it stands out in the darkness. Mine was planned from the onset though and the roofing was part of the house.
if l were to be on ground, l would have love to come around and assist you in achieving your aim, free of cost but lam am engaged rigth now, for the next 12weeks or so


But the idea is SIMPLE and the SAME with what l saw (open roof) before doing mine and what you need to do to yours .
The person nailed hard woods to the walls of the tank house, to form the stilts of a small roof that will cover the tank, such that rain falls on the small roof and the roof channels the water away, through a collection-pipe (roof gutter). Any intelligent roofer or carpenter can do this.
It should be compact enough not to leave much space between the main roof and the tank-house walls.
Your Tiled floor should be well-sloped towards the side where outlet pipe takes any leftover water away, to prevent stagnation that usually preceed water trying to percolate into the floor. (you can use one or two 1" x 12" wood cut to side, to balance the tank that would eventually be placed to such sloped floor, if need be but there is usually no need for this.)
Small mist of water (tiny droplets that may be driven-inside by heavy winds, will be too negligible to wet your floor since they will be small and will be quickly channeled-away on the Tiles, to an exit pipe.).
The problem you are having is likely because the Flooring of the Tank house was not properly sealed, before applying the Tiles on top.
If you can remove the Tiles completely (cost and ease of doing s are factors to consider), and then do a proper flooring, you might not even need a roof at all.

Option Two
This is what most people would normally do and they plan for it from the onset.
You properly floor the decking-floor of your Tank house, with a rich mix of High Cement and small, clean sand (it is important to use a clean, organic materia-free sharop sand (free from tiny woods or things that may decay in leave holes in their place) and let the layer be thick enough to withstand the weight of the tanks, to avoid cracking.
On top of this floor, you will put a thick layer (thick like Pap or thick paint) of Bitumen paint (the black stuff used on roads, they sell it at places like Ojota or anywhere they sell paint and chemicals. our in-house expert on paint, @Gbadexy is always very helpful in that direction, contact him), to form a second, waterpoof layer.
And at the same time, you use use FELT, another waterproof material that bonds easily with the Bitumen paint, forms a solid layer when completely cold and dry and makes it waterproof.
With this, the placed is sealed with assurance, for the next fifty years (You will need to replace the FELT after about that time, due to the effect of weathering on it, over the decades.)
The decision to put a Tiles on this Felt (for aesthetics beauty only), is your choice but whether you put tiles on it or not, l assure you it will not leak]. Just put your tank on it
The layer of FELT will just run-off your water to the Pipe, for outward discharge. Make sure it slopes to one side where the pipe is positioned and use 3" pipe to allow for easy evacuation any water, in heavy rainfall.

Many Bungalow houses that are decked, waiting to be raised to storey building, usually use this option two, for years on end, pending when they want to raise the upper floor and they dont experience a leakage, if properly done, so your small tank area is moi-moi compared to those.

I feel you are "afraid" somehow but dont be afraid, if you still need help, just ask. There are good people here who are ready to lend you their experience and expertise (ofcourse, we have had one or two people here also, who are out to milk unsuspecting home owners like you ....and they are still around, especially now when moderation of the thread is virtually dead!)

Look for where to but the Materials you need (The FELT and the BITUMEN, which serves as the gum or adhesive between the floor and the Felt).
@Gbadexy and other builders/Owners in the house with experience, bixton, diordaves, Rotech, Abdulwastecx, KolaShangOne, gabbytabby, Skimanski, Segcymoor, etc)


If we can do Septic tank inside a water-logged, swampy ground...... and it does not leak water inside, an overhead tank leakage cannot be a major headache

^^^
You are 110% correct sir. The dense mortar mix makes sense to even a layman but the use of the felt and bitumen nailed it.
There are people who specialize in fixing the felt and bitumen with heat to form a continuous carpet like surface and they are sold in different millimeter grades.
They form effective waterproof barrier that can't be degraded by ultra violet rays of the sun.
I reckon you gave a complete easy to follow textbook solution to the problem that can be adopted for similar issues.

gohome.ng

Excuzeme:


Like l said, we all learn from each other and we all hope to help each other to achieve good results, at the minimum cost.
Now, the problem is clearer, from your post.
L et me say that there is not one problem on this earth, that cannot be solved, with proper knowledge, materials and human effort.

In this problem (you wont be the first or the last person to experience this, so take it from me that others have solved this same challenge, on this thread), the solution can come from either of two ways:

1.) Prevent rain from entring that tank platform, through a small, additional and independent cover in form of a small roof coverage
2.) Make the floor of the Tank platform inpervious to water and waterproof ,using selected materials.
The Key objective here is to ensure that any water that hits your floor, does not sink into the floor but get directed into a pipe that channels it away to the floor.

Both of this options will cost a fraction fo what an outside scafold will cost and eliminates problems associated with scafold, like possible collapse of the scafold due to rust or windshear or rapid degradation of the tank itself, due to weather elements.

First, let me say that TILES though inpervious and eaterproof themselves, the fact that you have to join them together, makes room for leakage.
The materials also used to join them together (wateproof Cement or white cement) does not bond completely with the Tiles and as such, there will almost always be leakages. (think of that room next to a TILED bathroom, that experiences wet wall, on the side of wall adjacent to the bathroom ).
Even where you use say SILICONE to seal the joints, over time, the Silicone may weaken but since most bathrooms dont leak, it is as a result of the san/Cement mix under the Tiles, that prevent most leakage. So we need to pay more attention to what is under the Tiles, than what we put on top of the Tiles.

Option One would have been my choice if l knew how your roof looks like.
I have seen it done before but l dont have the pictures because l did not take the picture back then.

The way l did one of mine, people dont even know it is a Tank that was hidden there, most people think it is a "Penthouse/room" for some hideous activity that bigboys like to engage in. Most of the outward-facing side was covered in coloured glass block and when l put on the LED light inside the palce at night, it sure adss beauty to the building, especially when yo uare seeing it from afar at night when PHCN the Discos have taken light and it stands out in the darkness. Mine was planned from the onset though and the roofing was part of the house.
if l were to be on ground, l would have love to come around and assist you in achieving your aim, free of cost but lam am engaged rigth now, for the next 12weeks or so


But the idea is SIMPLE and the SAME with what l saw (open roof) before doing mine and what you need to do to yours .
The person nailed hard woods to the walls of the tank house, to form the stilts of a small roof that will cover the tank, such that rain falls on the small roof and the roof channels the water away, through a collection-pipe (roof gutter). Any intelligent roofer or carpenter can do this.
It should be compact enough not to leave much space between the main roof and the tank-house walls.
Your Tiled floor should be well-sloped towards the side where outlet pipe takes any leftover water away, to prevent stagnation that usually preceed water trying to percolate into the floor. (you can use one or two 1" x 12" wood cut to side, to balance the tank that would eventually be placed to such sloped floor, if need be but there is usually no need for this.)
Small mist of water (tiny droplets that may be driven-inside by heavy winds, will be too negligible to wet your floor since they will be small and will be quickly channeled-away on the Tiles, to an exit pipe.).
The problem you are having is likely because the Flooring of the Tank house was not properly sealed, before applying the Tiles on top.
If you can remove the Tiles completely (cost and ease of doing s are factors to consider), and then do a proper flooring, you might not even need a roof at all.

Option Two
This is what most people would normally do and they plan for it from the onset.
You properly floor the decking-floor of your Tank house, with a rich mix of High Cement and small, clean sand (it is important to use a clean, organic materia-free sharop sand (free from tiny woods or things that may decay in leave holes in their place) and let the layer be thick enough to withstand the weight of the tanks, to avoid cracking.
On top of this floor, you will put a thick layer (thick like Pap or thick paint) of Bitumen paint (the black stuff used on roads, they sell it at places like Ojota or anywhere they sell paint and chemicals. our in-house expert on paint, @Gbadexy is always very helpful in that direction, contact him), to form a second, waterpoof layer.
And at the same time, you use use FELT, another waterproof material that bonds easily with the Bitumen paint, forms a solid layer when completely cold and dry and makes it waterproof.
With this, the placed is sealed with assurance, for the next fifty years (You will need to replace the FELT after about that time, due to the effect of weathering on it, over the decades.)
The decision to put a Tiles on this Felt (for aesthetics beauty only), is your choice but whether you put tiles on it or not, l assure you it will not leak]. Just put your tank on it
The layer of FELT will just run-off your water to the Pipe, for outward discharge. Make sure it slopes to one side where the pipe is positioned and use 3" pipe to allow for easy evacuation any water, in heavy rainfall.

Many Bungalow houses that are decked, waiting to be raised to storey building, usually use this option two, for years on end, pending when they want to raise the upper floor and they dont experience a leakage, if properly done, so your small tank area is moi-moi compared to those.

I feel you are "afraid" somehow but dont be afraid, if you still need help, just ask. There are good people here who are ready to lend you their experience and expertise (ofcourse, we have had one or two people here also, who are out to milk unsuspecting home owners like you ....and they are still around, especially now when moderation of the thread is virtually dead!)

Look for where to but the Materials you need (The FELT and the BITUMEN, which serves as the gum or adhesive between the floor and the Felt).
@Gbadexy and other builders/Owners in the house with experience, bixton, diordaves, Rotech, Abdulwastecx, KolaShangOne, gabbytabby, Skimanski, Segcymoor, etc)


If we can do Septic tank inside a water-logged, swampy ground...... and it does not leak water inside, an overhead tank leakage cannot be a major headache

Honestly, you have really tried for me. It shows the kind of person you are. Someone like you will always get help even from where you are not expecting it. I think I will consider the 2 options you have suggested. I guess I should ask architect to sketch out how the penthouse_like roof will be so that it does not disfigured the house. Also if the cost is negligible, I will put it on 3D just to be sure of how it would be on the house. Then I will still go ahead to do bitumen and felt as suggested. I kuku have an engineer introduced to me by my cousin but it was later I realized that the man is ill experienced engineer. I guess he is only used to bungalow�. Once am convinced that it won't disfigure the house then I will go ahead. I will go to site today and snap the picture of how it is currently and send it here. Thanks for your advice and I really appreciate it.

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elengine:


Honestly, you have really tried for me. It shows the kind of person you are. Someone like you will always get help even from where you are not expecting it. I think I will consider the 2 options you have suggested. I guess I should ask architect to sketch out how the penthouse_like roof will be so that it does not disfigured the house. Also if the cost is negligible, I will put it on 3D just to be sure of how it would be on the house. Then I will still go ahead to do bitumen and felt as suggested. I kuku have an engineer introduced to me by my cousin but it was later I realized that the man is ill experienced engineer. I guess he is only used to bungalow�. Once am convinced that it won't disfigure the house then I will go ahead. I will go to site today and snap the picture of how it is currently and send it here. Thanks for your advice and I really appreciate it.

It's always good advice when seeking solution to a problem to post pictures of the problem. This will help to better diagnose the issue and profer the right kind of solution.

Post the pictures first like you said, there might just be a cost effective solution than starting from scratch again.

elengine:


Thanks bro. The deck is not roofed and the leaking is due to downpour. It is not caused by overflow. Thanks once again

Okay.
I believe Excuzeme have given you a good response to sort the issue as well as gbadexy.
I do not think there's anything more to be added now that we know the cause.
Good luck.