Thanks bro, words are not enough to for this deep explanation.

[quote author=NiyiOmoIyunade post=115473623]Why do you think 1,200watts of panels are too much for your 2units 12v 150Ah batteries?

Now I am enlightened that 300W is good for my setup, I will certainly go for it rather than 250W.


If you get very good panels and decent MPPT CC, your 4x300w panels can generate up to 4,800Wh on a good day, your 2x12vx150Ah batteries can store about 3,600Wh of energy of which you can expect to drain like 2,000Wh daily at about 50% DoD

Please recommend moderately price 60amp MPPT CC that can carry my setup without issue. Also, since it's 24v setup I was calculating 2*24*150 = 7200Wh (50% DOD = 3600), please correct me if I a wrong.


Above leaves you about 2,500Wh of free solar energy to use to run day time loads - your fridge alone can easily consume over 1,000Wh between 8am and 6pm - you can easily answer this question by attaching a watt meter (people here sell them) to the fridge for a week.

I bought this -> Binatone AC Cool Guard Voltage Protector-ACG 1500 to get Starting Watts (650 - 750) & Running Watts (165 - 220), do I still need the watt meter?


With your flooded batteries, you do not really need a desulphator - a good equalization charge every 30 days should put you in a good place.

Can this -> PowMr 60a MPPT Solar Charge Controller do the equalization?

TechGeek777:
Thanks bro, words are not enough to for this deep explanation.

Take very good note of this, abeg, buy good solar panels o. or else all those writeups will turn to stories!

https://youtu.be/37qFHANUr-E tantalizing... But all those metal frames used especially for the local startups will resuce the range of the batt8due to their weight. Aren't there aluminum type metals that can be easily fabricated with good tensile or structural strength?

earthrealm:


Note all lead acid batteries must bow to the C/10 rule, though some premium models claim C/20.

What this means in simple terms is that you shudnt charge or discharge at above 10% of battery capacity.so your 150ah bank .this is 15amps max, you could have even get away with C/15 to C/20 if its not done too often.

Charging leadacid battery above their specification causes them to heat up and the
internal lead plates buckle & deteriorate.

4 x 300 watts is ok, as due to inefficiencies and other reasons..you would likely be getting about 600watts to 900 watts on the average. You may set your cc to cap current @ 40amps..if it has that functionality....
The slight drawback would be some energy might be wasting on super sunny days when you are running heavy loads and your panel may want to push 50amps to the for the load and battery charging to share...

You dont need an external charger, your inverter charging shud be adequate.

What you need more is a means to manually send 15.5volts or 31v since urs is 24v bank to the battery pack every month for 4 to 6hrs for a process called equalization&desulphation.....what this does in essence is to boil the flooded battery so the electrolyte mixes thoroughly and deposites on the lead plates inside the battery are dissollved/knocked off.

My brother I am very grateful for these explanations.

Can this -> PowMr 60a MPPT Solar Charge Controller do the equalization&desulphation by sending in 31v ?


What this means in simple terms is that you shudnt charge or discharge at above 10% of battery capacity.so your 150ah bank .this is 15amps max, you could have even get away with C/15 to C/20 if its not done too often.

Charging leadacid battery above their specification causes them to heat up and the
internal lead plates buckle & deteriorate.



Since it's 24v setup, by 15amps do you mean 15amp * 24v = 360W. So I shouldn't use more than 360W per hour?

Please enlighten me more.

Please leave the system nominal voltage for a bit.

How many indvidual batteries do you have?

If you have 2 units of 12v 150Ah batteries then that is a total of 3,600Wh stored

If you have 4 units of 12v 150Ah batteries then that is a total of 7,200Wh stored.

In real life the actual battery health condition and age will determine how many Wh of energy can be stored and (re)used.

Alas I am unable to give any recos on most budget products as I have little current experience with them - only use a very narrow range of equipment these days but others will chip in.

TechGeek777:
Thanks bro, words are not enough to for this deep explanation.

To clarify that all lead acid batteries are not thesame.

The safe and ideal discharge for most lead acid batteries is C20 or 5% of capacity sustained - means you discharge 5amps max for 100Ah battery.

For charging - AGMs can be charged at 20% of nominal capacity, Gels up to 15% and Flooded batteries at 13% of nominal capacity - these are safe limits that will do no harm - an informed user can push the charge limits (think temp compensated charging and other esoterica)

To make sure that lead acid users can still make full use of what they have.

earthrealm:


Note all lead acid batteries must bow to the C/10 rule, though some premium models claim C/20.

What this means in simple terms is that you shudnt charge or discharge at above 10% of battery capacity.so your 150ah bank .this is 15amps max, you could have even get away with C/15 to C/20 if its not done too often.

Charging leadacid battery above their specification causes them to heat up and the
internal lead plates buckle & deteriorate.

4 x 300 watts is ok, as due to inefficiencies and other reasons..you would likely be getting about 600watts to 900 watts on the average. You may set your cc to cap current @ 40amps..if it has that functionality....
The slight drawback would be some energy might be wasting on super sunny days when you are running heavy loads and your panel may want to push 50amps to the for the load and battery charging to share...

You dont need an external charger, your inverter charging shud be adequate.

What you need more is a means to manually send 15.5volts or 31v since urs is 24v bank to the battery pack every month for 4 to 6hrs for a process called equalization&desulphation.....what this does in essence is to boil the flooded battery so the electrolyte mixes thoroughly and deposites on the lead plates inside the battery are dissollved/knocked off.

Note: only flooded battery need this periodic boiling

You are correct. I read something similar to what you mentioned online as regards 60 powmr. Some claim the display n actual readings are different. But powmr mppt cc is actually mppt(internal components). Techfine mppt cc is accurate. What d display shows is dsame as d figure on my bms

zeestone99:


So I had an experience with a clients mppt.

Not all these mppt are mppt.

When I got there I measured with my clamp meter. And there was a 28 to 30a difference.

The particular Mppt controller is rated 80a and it was showing 70+ Amps on its screen. When I measured with clamp meter I was measuring around 40 amps. The gap was wide. We went to his house to measure the other one of 100a and we got same result, which is around 30a deficit. Home and office controller useless just like that.
I just gave him 80a fangpusun flexmax for the office and he testified good result even in poor weather. It's expensive but then you get value for your money.

So when you get controller of unknown brands do your checks very well. Below is a picture of the said mppt.

Oshomo12:


Take very good note of this, abeg, buy good solar panels o. or else all those writeups will turn to stories!

Like which products is good?

Which solar panel brand is original?

Good evening guys. Please has anyone bought anything from this site https://www.u-buy.com.ng
Are they reliable like Jumia or Amazon? Or are they fake?

ojesymsym:
Hello guys, anyone knows how to wake up a lithium that has been left idle and unused for more than 5 years?

If the BMS is still functional, the cells may still be protected from discharge below what is expected. In this case, introducing an AC charger or BRIEFLY connecting it in parallel with another pack of similar voltage may wake it up. Note that "briefly" because massive current will be moving from the charged pack into the pack you intend to wake up if left for longer period.

You likely cannot wake it up with solar charge. If all fails and you are a little bit handy, you may have to open up the pack, disconnect the BMS first, then test the voltages on the individual cells to see which is till within rescucitable volt. Then charge them individually (4.2v charger for Li-ion, 3.2v charger for LFP) till full.

After they are full, disconnect the charger and leave them for about two to three days to check the idle discharge. At the end of 4 to 5 days, any cell that still retains the nominal voltage (depending on Li-ion or LFP) is still very much around/viable.

ceaser:


If the BMS is still functional, the cells may still be protected from discharge below what is expected. In this case, introducing an AC charger or BRIEFLY connecting it in parallel with another pack of similar voltage may wake it up. Note that "briefly" because massive current will be moving from the charged pack into the pack you intend to wake up if left for longer period.

You likely cannot wake it up with solar charge. If all fails and you are a little bit handy, you may have to open up the pack, disconnect the BMS first, then test the voltages on the individual cells to see which is till within rescucitable volt. Then charge them individually (4.2v charger for Li-ion, 3.2v charger for LFP) till full.

After they are full, disconnect the charger and leave them for about two to three days to check the idle discharge. At the end of 4 to 5 days, any cell that still retains the nominal voltage (depending on Li-ion or LFP) is still very much around/viable.

Any reason as to why solar cannot be used?

I saw this on Facebook, e really shock me o.

uche393:
I saw this on Facebook, e really shock me o.

Is this installation here in Nigeria?

TechGeek777:


Like which products is good?

This may be a bit complicated, but let me list some, not in order of performance.
Trina, Jinko, Ja, Risen, Canadian, Lg, Yingli etc

Complicated: you may be offered the above, but are they original? You must get someone that will offer you the original brands o, AT A COST. They do not come cheap.
Any solar panel you see or hear about, just search for its presence online, they should have a site(not jiji, nairaland, or any other selling sites) that will tell you about their products.

SO MANY USELESS SOLAR PANELS ARE HERE NOW! They advertise them on this thread also, many of them. Be very careful fa.

Abiono28:


Any reason as to why solar cannot be used?

From my own experience with use of LFP, I have not been able to successfully wake up any pack that the BMS has shut down due to deep discharge. Once the battery shuts off, the MPPT CC input is somewhat compromised. Using a CC requires an initial input of the correct voltage from the battery so that it initializes to a default 12v, 24v or 48v battery input. Then every other thing including the ability to charge falls into place.

Once the battery input is compromised, it tends to shut off charging output by limiting the current from the panels. That's for CCs that have that kind of battery disconnect protection. At least I know that for PowMr.

uche393:
I saw this on Facebook, e really shock me o.

Oh boy! House don nearly burn ńa.

The fault seems to be a short in the panel output wires as can be seen from the burnt tracks. The panels nearest to the wire also got parts burnt.

With such number of panels, the current coming out of it will be massive such that a short in the output wires could be disastrous. I can only imagine what the volts will do to a person who touches the output from those array when it is pumping out on sunny days.

uche393:
I saw this on Facebook, e really shock me o.

What did the OP say that caused this?

Hello guys, the lithium battery is corvus AT6500 125 48 from a Canadian company. I am not able to tell the exact lithium type.
I think the batteries were left for about than 10 years and not 5 as I previously stated.
The output voltages are basically showing zero for many of them. A message to the manufacturers has them saying once the voltage is less than 32V, it cannot be charged. This is expected anyway.
The alternative is to open it up and see what is inside and find a way to charge the cells individually, unfortunately, I am not in direct control of it.

ceaser:


If the BMS is still functional, the cells may still be protected from discharge below what is expected. In this case, introducing an AC charger or BRIEFLY connecting it in parallel with another pack of similar voltage may wake it up. Note that "briefly" because massive current will be moving from the charged pack into the pack you intend to wake up if left for longer period.

You likely cannot wake it up with solar charge. If all fails and you are a little bit handy, you may have to open up the pack, disconnect the BMS first, then test the voltages on the individual cells to see which is till within rescucitable volt. Then charge them individually (4.2v charger for Li-ion, 3.2v charger for LFP) till full.

After they are full, disconnect the charger and leave them for about two to three days to check the idle discharge. At the end of 4 to 5 days, any cell that still retains the nominal voltage (depending on Li-ion or LFP) is still very much around/viable.

ojeysky:


Unless the voltage has gone below threshold it should just work once you introduce a charger. What's the voltage it's reading? And what type of lithium is it, Lifepo4, LTO, Li-on etc?

Oshomo12:


like Ojey said, what is the voltage on the Lithium cells?

ojesymsym:
Hello guys, the lithium battery is corvus AT6500 125 48 from a Canadian company. I am not able to tell the exact lithium type.
I think the batteries were left for about than 10 years and not 5 as I previously stated.
The output voltages are basically showing zero for many of them.

This is not unexpected. The BMS has shut off. That may be a good sign that the individual cells will still retain their charge as lithium batteries are not known to self-discharge as bad as Lead acid does. Self discharge is something like 0.1v per year, I think.

ojesymsym:

A message to the manufacturers has them saying once the voltage is less than 32V, it cannot be charged. This is expected anyway.
The alternative is to open it up and see what is inside and find a way to charge the cells individually, unfortunately, I am not in direct control of it.

@ bolded is the way to go.

How do you mean you're not in direct control of it? I though you said you have the packs with you.

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If I understand you, the BMS is shutting out getting readings from the cells by shutting out both input and outputs so that reading may not be right? Correct me if I am wrong, I thought in this context the BMS will only shut any power from getting into it to charge it but will still show the output voltage of the battery..

ceaser:


This is not unexpected. The BMS has shut off. That may be a good sign that the individual cells will still retain their charge as lithium batteries are not known to self-discharge as bad as Lead acid does. Self discharge is something like 0.1v per year, I think.

Oh sorry if I implied that. The chain long small. A friend is the one who was invited to come check if the batteries can be salvaged after many years of neglect. You don't want to know what I was told the cost of each was, that was allowed to waste like this. I am not talking of 1 oh, from the picture, I can see at least 30 of them.

@ bolded is the way to go.

How do you mean you're not in direct control of it? I though you said you have the packs with you.

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ojesymsym:

Oh sorry if I implied that. The chain long small. A friend is the one who was invited to come check if the batteries can be salvaged after many years of neglect. You don't want to know what I was told the cost of each was, that was allowed to waste like this. I am not talking of 1 oh, from the picture, I can see at least 30 of them.

I think it should go for dirt cheap considering the present condition of the batteries. If that is the case, please seize that golden opportunity. Check the status of like one or two of the packs to have a general idea of what condition the other packs will likely be in.

And I wont mind doing a hanger on on the sweet deal , so please remember me in your kingdom.

ojesymsym:
If I understand you, the BMS is shutting out getting readings from the cells by shutting out both input and outputs so that reading may not be right? Correct me if I am wrong, I thought in this context the BMS will only shut any power from getting into it to charge it but will still show the output voltage of the battery..


Oh sorry if I implied that. The chain long small. A friend is the one who was invited to come check if the batteries can be salvaged after many years of neglect. You don't want to know what I was told the cost of each was, that was allowed to waste like this. I am not talking of 1 oh, from the picture, I can see at least 30 of them.

Ceaser already explained it in detail to you. The BMS will shut down output not input. However, most Solar Charge Controllers are by design first attached to the battery, and after detecting the voltage i.e 12V, 24V,36V etc, before it will start charging. It cannot charge a battery the volts (output) cannot be detected.

Note: the output voltage is a range 12V system (DC9V-DC15V), 24V system (DC18V-DC29V), 36V system (DC30V-DC39V), 48V system (DC40V~DC60V)

So In a scenario where the BMS has shutdown (no output voltage), the Solar Charge Controller is not seeing any battery to charge. so you need a direct charger. The BMS can only wake up after battery volts has increased above the shutdown volts, which can be achieved only by applying any of those actions suggested to you.

My INEC LIFEPO4 battery has shutdown before and it was reactivated with the original charger. just plugged in the charger and it came up instantly less than 10 seconds.

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Finally got the info, it is a Lithium NMC

ojeysky:


Unless the voltage has gone below threshold it should just work once you introduce a charger. What's the voltage it's reading? And what type of lithium is it, Lifepo4, LTO, Li-on etc?

ojesymsym:
Finally got the info, it is a Lithium NMC

Normal is 2.4v with lowest at around 1.8v so when you unpack let's hope you get voltage reading of at least 1.8v on each cell else the cells may be a gonner

EPOMA:


Please die this topic here , No one is i am not interested . We did not know when the deal was done . Just respect yourself

I know you are not interested, that is very obvious. Fair enough, that is your right afteral, l did not post the Topic on your head.

And if l dont "die the topic here", what in God's name do you think you will do, apart from just minding your Business and doing Waka-pass, anytime you see it?

I am just curious because l think such empty threats, are just meaningless.

SMH. If l were you, l wont cry more than the bereaved.

BTW: let me repeat the topic here.

FireTheSun:



You keep lying in Public and it shows you have zero Credibility.
You told me you are a University Graduate, so it will be wrong of me, to assume you to know the meaning and import of those words l highlighted in your Post.

1) The Damage you caused to my Roof, by your Quackery and Incompetence, is more than just Leaks!
Leaks can be plugged but the Damage is majorly CRUSHED ROOFING SHEETS, caused by your CARELESS and INEXPERIENCED walking around, on my Roof, with FOUR other men.

2) You said you RESOLVED the issue when l contact you about it, in September or so?.
The question is: How does asking a Roofer to plug about some of the 15 leakages in my Roof, RESOLVE the issue of Crushed, Damaged Roofing Sheets?
How does that "plugging of some Leaks" back them, amount to a COMPLETE RESOLUTION of the Damage you caused with your quackery?

3) My Roofing sheets are still crushed as l type this, leading to secondary problems.
The only lasting Solution/Resolution is to REPLACE the AFFECTED Roofing Sheets (about 75% of the Roof Area, in the three locations you installed Panels, on the Roof).
So, when you say you have "resolved" the issue, l would ask: Did you replace the CRUSHED Roofing Sheets?
The answer is "NO", so what is all the noise you are making online?

I have asked a Roofer to assess the damage and the Roofer that told me the best solution is to remove the damage Roofing Sheets and replace them with New Ones. He added that the more we keep climbing the Roof to plug leakages (which keeps re-occurring within those crushed areas), the more damage we will have and the more leakages we will get!
That is obvious and reasonable, to any reasonable person.

I dont need another Roofer to climb and walk on my Roof (and potentially damage it even more), for any, additional "assessment", at this moment except to Replace the damaged Roofing Sheets. There is enough "pictorial evidence" of the situation of the Roof, which l have already provided.

Since you have been sounding-off, l can refer you to the Company that produced my Roofing Sheets, in the Dopemu area of Lagos, you can pay them for the Roofing Sheets, while l take delivery of them and ask the Roofer to remove the damaged ones and replace them with the New ones or l can buy it while you credit my Account for the Cost.

You can even pay for the "Accessories and Workmanship" but stop coming here to mouth-off that you have resolved the problem.

As far as l am concerned, [color=#990000]you @Zeestone99 / Mazine Group was asked to install Panels on my Roof but in the process, you damaged my Roof, through your Incompetence and Quackery[/color] ... and the damages are still there, for all to see.

You have identified yourself here, so take your decisions here and let everyone see/read it here.
If you do well, we will commend you here and if you messed up, we will mention it here as well.

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