fhranchez:
Hello solar gurus, sorry to disrupt your earthing argument. I have another argument myself that ensued between me and a installer this evening. I was lamenting about the 40% drop of amps from my panels this dry season to him and suspected the culprit to be dust & heat combined.

To my surprise, he insisted that dust was a minor factor reducing my panel output. He diagnosed my failing battery as the major factor for the amps drop.

So please, is there any way a weak battery can result to lesser output from my panels?

Failing battery will reduced overall AH charged to thr battery as the battery falsely get full very soon but not the instantaneous current.

Reduction in current is due to dust. Wash the panel.

Are u using a lead acid battery. If yes.. Do u av a shunt battery monitor installed in ur system or any type of monitor that shows the amount of amps coming n going out of ur battery? Wat side is ur panel facing. (N, E, S or W)

fhranchez:
Hello solar gurus, sorry to disrupt your earthing argument. I have another argument myself that ensued between me and a installer this evening. I was lamenting about the 40% drop of amps from my panels this dry season to him and suspected the culprit to be dust & heat combined.

To my surprise, he insisted that dust was a minor factor reducing my panel output. He diagnosed my failing battery as the major factor for the amps drop.

So please, is there any way a weak battery can result to lesser output from my panels?

odimbannamdi:


I guess so.

I use 2 units of 540w Jinko panels (1080w) on a 12v connection with Powmr (similar to MSB), even though the max PV input power for 12v is 720w. I was so scared that the CC would fry when the sun peaks, but it is still holding up well.

I think there is tolerance allowance. And as long as you dont exceed the max VOC, you should be fine.

I think 540w should be 24v.

They can both be true.

Dust and dirt can lower your PV production significantly.

A weak or failing battery can also limit your PV production.

You should clean the panels as a first step - this is low hanging fruit.

To test if your battery is a culprit, on a clear skies sunny day, disable mains/Gen input, put on a large load while the battery is in absorb or float and see if the PV watts ramp up in response to the load coming on.

You could also deep discharge the battery the day before and disable solar charging until 11am - you start up the solar charging while the battery is low and see how the PV responds to a hungry battery under optimal solar weather.

You need to pick an ideal solar day to run these tests and also have a backup in case solar will not be sufficient to refill your battery for that day.

fhranchez:
Hello solar gurus, sorry to disrupt your earthing argument. I have another argument myself that ensued between me and a installer this evening. I was lamenting about the 40% drop of amps from my panels this dry season to him and suspected the culprit to be dust & heat combined.

To my surprise, he insisted that dust was a minor factor reducing my panel output. He diagnosed my failing battery as the major factor for the amps drop.

So please, is there any way a weak battery can result to lesser output from my panels?

Jefferyzz:
Are u using a lead acid battery. If yes.. Do u av a shunt battery monitor installed in ur system or any type of monitor that shows the amount of amps coming n going out of ur battery? Wat side is ur panel facing. (N, E, S or W)

ques 1: yes, lead acid(gel)
Ques 2: shunt, the pwm controller has a amp monitor
Ques 3: north or south, I'm not sure

Not like that. U need a standalone monitor like the 1 below

fhranchez:
ques 1: yes, lead acid(gel)
Ques 2: shunt, the pwm controller has a amp monitor
Ques 3: north or south, I'm not sure

Who knows if this diodes can function like fuse. They are way cheaper than fuse n fuse holders. More than 2x cheaper sef

Jefferyzz:
Who knows if this diodes can function like fuse. They are way cheaper than fuse n fuse holders. More than 2x cheaper sef

I believe it acts as fuse only drawback is that you can get it in higher amps ranges so if your string current is not high then you are good to go

Hey Veterans in the house

Which 7kwh (and upwards) Lithium battery can i get that is reliable for my 5kva Gennex Hybrid Inverter

Is there a way to soft start a freezer compressor?

Any device or something that can work?

No diodes are not fuses - diodes allow current to flow in only one direction. If I recall correctly a diode burns out if higher than rated amps pass through it - the burnout is in such a manner as may cause a fire or other damage. Fuses are designed to fail safely when the circuit they protect is overloaded.

Decent panels usually have diodes built in same as the charge controllers - I am wondering what OP is trying to achieve substituting a diode for a fuse - if the goal is to protect your panels from perhaps some short or other failure then use a combiner box with breakers per string of panels or if you really want to use fuses then take the time and trouble to do it right.

ojeysky:


I believe it acts as fuse only drawback is that you can get it in higher amps ranges so if your string current is not high then you are good to go

ojesymsym:
Is there a way to soft start a freezer compressor?

Any device or something that can work?

You may see it but I doubt the effectiveness of it. Someone talked about putting some super capacitors in parallel with his battery, right at the inverter terminals. That would give a big current boost when a high demand load start.
I think you need an inverter/battery capable of handling the start up surge. The goal should be to avoid using battery to power freezer, rather using surplus pv while battery is fully charged during the day.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
No diodes are not fuses - diodes allow current to flow in only one direction. If I recall correctly a diode burns out if higher than rated amps pass through it - the burnout is in such a manner as may cause a fire or other damage. Fuses are designed to fail safely when the circuit they protect is overloaded.

Decent panels usually have diodes built in same as the charge controllers - I am wondering what OP is trying to achieve substituting a diode for a fuse - if the goal is to protect your panels from perhaps some short or other failure then use a combiner box with breakers per string of panels or if you really want to use fuses then take the time and trouble to do it right.

Those stuff are actually called fuses(you may Google it) but they act as you've described. Usage scenario is when you don't want current from PV to go above certain level. I was considering this for my home setup at a time but I figured that Deye does cap the current without negative impact. Not all CC does that apparently.

Jefferyzz:
Not like that. U need a standalone monitor like the 1 below

I have this available for sale incase you want to buy. I think mine are 200A(will reconfirm)

Any installer around Awka, Onitsha, or Asaba

Call me
I'd got a job 4 for you.
O9132820866

Syber:

Hey Veterans in the house

Which 7kwh (and upwards) Lithium battery can i get that is reliable for my 5kva Gennex Hybrid Inverter

DIY or Felicity are the ones in town unfortunately. Still yet to see reasonably priced lifepo4 pack that is not DIY

The purpose is to blowout Incase there's a short higher than 15a. D diode is built inside an mc4 connector. I think that can handle the fireworks. Yh. Current from d panel is meant to flow in 1 direction. Backflow will damage d panel if higher than d figure of max series fuse. N a pair is lesser than price of 1 fuse with d holder.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
No diodes are not fuses - diodes allow current to flow in only one direction. If I recall correctly a diode burns out if higher than rated amps pass through it - the burnout is in such a manner as may cause a fire or other damage. Fuses are designed to fail safely when the circuit they protect is overloaded.

Decent panels usually have diodes built in same as the charge controllers - I am wondering what OP is trying to achieve substituting a diode for a fuse - if the goal is to protect your panels from perhaps some short or other failure then use a combiner box with breakers per string of panels or if you really want to use fuses then take the time and trouble to do it right.

@ fhranchez Incase u need one of the monitor in the picture

ojeysky:


I have this available for sale incase you want to buy. I think mine are 200A(will reconfirm)

NiyiOmoIyunade:
They should be guillotined - my current location the electrician was paid for 4mm2 wire for all AC and heater lines, enough to cover both Live and Neutral and Earth wires, he switched the Earth wires to 1.5mm2 because 'he felt 4mm2 was overkill'. I fired him immediately I discovered the breach and got him to pull out the 1.5mm2 and deliver the 4mm2 he was paid for.

You'll be surprised at the stunt some tech people pull off at jobs. I've seen someone bill for 4mm² 3 core flex, one for input and one for output. The tech guy ended up using one of the wires (3 core) for both input and output. How he achieved this is both criminal and at the same time genius. The 3 core wire was used this way, L was used for input live, the neutral wire was used for both input and output neutral (inverters share a common neutral for both input and output) and the third wire, earth, was used for output live. Dude did not really care for earth, "after all it works"



So he bought only 30m of cable and pocketed the money for the other 30m meant for output wire.

Does anyone has victron bmv 712 here?

isangjohnson:
Does anyone has victron bmv 712 here?

Kai there is always time for everything sha, I remember when I was actively marketing 2 units of this thing here.... stayed with me for months until someone bought them off

ojeysky:


Kai there is always time for everything sha, I remember when I was actively marketing 2 units of this thing here.... stayed with me for months until someone bought them off

I knew you don't have it.
Business is ups and downs... If more were still with you, you would've probably made extra cash... Lol

ojeysky:


I have this available for sale incase you want to buy. I think mine are 200A(will reconfirm)

does it display watts? If not, do you have a watt monitor and how much is it

fhranchez:
does it display watts? If not, do you have a watt monitor and how much is it

Ofcourse it displays watt and other stuff and I have confirmed I have the 200A shunt version. It's 20k if you are interested let me know

My 16KW Deye + 2x15KW Felicity LPBF48300 Setup is almost complete. Still at the testing phase.

Next

sheDD:
Any installer around Awka, Onitsha, or Asaba

Call me
I'd got a job 4 for you.
O9132820866

Any here!!!!?

jonescosmo:
My 16KW Deye + 2x15KW Felicity LPBF48300 Setup is almost complete. Still at the testing phase.

Am looking at those battery cables, they don't seem to be above 16mm? I will suggest you do 35mm or at least 25mm considering the load as I assume you will be doing up 10kw average? I can even see from the image that you are already discharging at above 11kw

jonescosmo:
Next

Oh the BMS does not report individual cell voltages? That's not cool

ojesymsym:
Is there a way to soft start a freezer compressor?

Any device or something that can work?

are you sure the problem is the starter?

AshipaEk0:
Please where can I walk in physically to buy DC ceiling fans?

Why do you want to walk in?
I have one I can sell - send to you, gold color.
36k

ojeysky:


Am looking at those battery cables, they don't seem to be above 16mm? I will suggest you do 35mm or at least 25mm considering the load as I assume you will be doing up 10kw average? I can even see from the image that you are already discharging at above 11kw

They are actually 35mm x 2 on each pole. I used single 35mm initially but they were heating up while charging at 240A.
So instead of linking the 2 batteries, I let each battery travel to the inverter on its own. Now the heating is gone.

I have the breakers to worry about now. It's rated 125A and I'm pumping 240A through it. Instead of it to trip, it's just there heating up.