ojesymsym:
I think I understand what you mean. You want the AC to shut down when temperature is already around 22 degrees centigrade right?
Okay, the blue knob allows for temperature down to a set value. You are right.
Can that thing handle the current requirement of an AC? I do not think so, it says there 2amps.

mctfopt:



Check well. It says 10A at 250v. Good enough for a 1HP system. If something can handle a heater, I doubt it'll have a 2A maximum current rating.

garbamaza:
#Aliexpress NGN 437,005.08 | Home Solar Ac Air Conditioner Solar Energy System Powered Without Batteries 9000Btu 12000Btu 18000Btu 24000Btu
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dSqwuYY

mctfopt:



The blue one. The idea is to save energy. You don't want the AC to be running when temperature is ok and draining juice needed by other devices.

ceaser:


I think inverter ACs have a way of saving energy when the room temperature reaches the desired preset.

That's one of the ways they are able to save energy.

garbamaza:


I came across this home solar air conditioner, purely operated with solar panels without need for batteries. Gentle men, I need your suggestions about this product.
Thank for your possible urgent responses.

Penuelseun:
Transfer time is also in milliseconds, an indicator can be installed. Just my opinion.

saint2ace:


What's the duration of the payment plans i.e number of months. And what's the total for each plan?

saint2ace:


What's the duration of the payment plans i.e number of months. And what's the total for each plan?

earthrealm:


i mean panel to cc.you need 35mm, if you line up the panels in 4p1s
since Voc is 100v, change the setup to 2s2p...and observe, 10mm is the recommended cable size, 6mm, you will have some losses.
ooh, looks very big to be just a CC alone, for a 20m run, that your design is wrong for the system you outlined above, it would be performing sub optimally,

Resistance increases with length
The reason different wire lengths bear different ratings is because the electrical resistance builds up as the cable gets longer. At that point, up-sizing the power cable will restore the voltage to its intended level.

Acceptable Power Loss
Undersizing the wire size will result in excessive power (watts) being lost in the wires rather than delivered to the load (battery bank, inverter. Typically we recommend the power loss below 5%.

Voltage Drop
A 5% voltage drop causes an approximate 10% loss in light output. Voltage drop causes a nearly proportional drop in light output. A voltage drop greater than 5% will reduce this necessary voltage difference, and can reduce charge current to the battery by a much greater percentage. Our general recommendation here is to size for a 2-3% voltage drop. If you think that the PV array may be expanded in the future, size the wire for future expansion.

Don't choke the flow of power
On the other hand, installing too large a wire gauge doesn't really have a downside, but there is the potential for better performance. Obviously, there's no need to buy 2-gauge wiring when 10-gauge will do. That kind of overkill would be a waste of money. But if the calculator could lean either way between two sizes, going with the larger wire size would be the smart choice.

garbamaza:


I came across this home solar air conditioner, purely operated with solar panels without need for batteries. Gentle men, I need your suggestions about this product.
Thank for your possible urgent responses.

ojtech8291:
It is actually working as stated. We have in stock here in Nigeria. Lagos Lekki phase1 to be precise.

earthrealm:


I mean a pic showing the whole setup/wiring.
Wanna compare the aesthetics vis a vis the cost with the ATS

kiekie1:
Fairly used 300w high quality poly panels"uncommon 72 cells" loading at 27k....Limited stock!

Condition: All performing great . Interested buyers can carry out their brief test

2 units left

Location: Abule-egba , Lagos but can be waybilled to any state as usual under buyers expense !


Feel free to contact me backstage asap if keenly interested as usual


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bodeface:
Please RE House,;
Good morning!
I am trying to upgrade my solar installation and I need advise from experienced members, installers and seller in house.
I currently has 4 X 200Ah AGM battery, which have served very well, I am undecided on either going for 8 X 200Ah or I should port to Lithium Battery (LiFePO4)
I know LiFePO4 is better in performance, you can derive more juice from it compare to AGM, I know all that stuff.
But more on value for money,
1. Is these LiFePO4 reliable
2. What's the failure rate like, in AGM battery bank you can replace a failed single unit (though not advised)
3. What's user experience, any user experience?
4. What are good model / manufacturer to consider for value for money
5. What do you advise; buy the AGM or buy the LiFeP04

Thanks

spartacus11:


I had to check up the 2 battery u listed Battleborn and ruixu omo Lead Acid fall our hand ohhhh

See lithium dey blaze

Lead acid was able to pish to 67Ah why lifepo4 dey do 93Ah and 95Ah


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVxvBkeY0UY

ceaser:
So I went shopping today hoping to get a low power consumption freezer, a bigger size actually cos I run a 203L (114 watts) already. I saw a thermocool 260L that has 110 watts on the nameplate. A similar looking one (same product and volume but different colour) has 104w slapped on the nameplate. I saw a double door Thermocool 300L with 130 watts, yet I saw another 300L double door Thermocool inverter with 140 watts on it.

That's when I got confused.

Two products (the same manufacturer and volume but one is inverter freezer and the other is not. But the inverter has higher watts (140 watts) than the regular one (130 watts).

Sadly in all these, I forgot to take the wattmeter along.

Biko, what is now inverter about the freezer if the watts is higher than that of the regular? Or am I missing something?

Please o, anyone experienced should enlighten me.

earthrealm:


i had the same challenge, back then JUO posted an LG inverter fridge, that he claimed consumed 30w, i traced the fridge, and found it, the energy nameplate on it is 110w abi 100w, got me confused. on LG website, the put 265kwh/yr as the annual consumption of the fridge, which if you divide by 365, you would get about 30w. the theory i think is that after working for some time, say 24hrs..i believe the energy consumption gradually drops to below 30w, Juo confirmed that his fridge records zero watts for some periods, so to enjoy these inverter appliances, i have deduced, its best they are powered 247, thats when you get the max energy savings...

earthrealm:
the haier inverter fridge, is it frost free?
i am interested on this your fridge waka, pls keep us updated, jumia now has 13amps watt meter for 6500naira, incase you are in need of one

ceaser:


Thanks for the explanation.



I don't think the freezer is frost free cos it's written on it that it keeps things frozen up to 96 hours after power failure. I believe it's the frost that does that.

Sadly, the shop I checked, that inverter freezer unit was the last on the shelf and already taken. The price was 320k. The non-inverter one is 300k. I would have gone for it if I didn't see/know that the inverter version exists. The shop was almost empty, covid things precluded restocking.

Now I have to start scouting for inverter freezer all over the place

My wattmeter still functions, but I only forgot to take it along.

earthrealm:


on my 4 batt setup, since i installed the 280w x 6 panels, my 130w freezer has been on 247, and my battery bank is unfazed. however, i get phcn about 8 to 12 hrs daily. so am now certain my setup can conveniently handle a 130w freezer 247, and an inverter fridge 247 as well. or worst case.. i line up the ATS & timer switch

i had excess energy today, and decided to power the sumo with my 4kva mustpower inverter, the sumo clocked in @ 74% load, making me suspect its a 2hp sumo, my dinrail watt meter and 13amp watt meter is inbound, so will have more accurate readings as well.
kept a hawk like watch on the sun/incoming harvest, as i didnt want the strain of the sumo to get to the battery, as my harvest hovered around 1350w abt 1430hrs today
solar is bae, i no go lie

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ceaser:

Well, I'll take option 1.
The distance from terminals pack to the CC appears to be the same in both packs.
Whereas for the other options, there is some difference in the distance from pack to the CC which will invariably impact on the charging current each pack is exposed to (notwithstanding the use of busbars in option 3), the charging expectedly being less in the pack with the longer wires (distance).

NiyiOmoIyunade:


All other things being equal, option 3 will keep the batteries in sync the longest and surest.

YOU MUST however use equal length cable of suitable gauge for the parallel runs from the extremost batteries to the negative and positive busbars. The series connections should be equal length amongst themselves too but not a requirement for pack balancing.

You can improve passive balancing by arranging extra wires in parallel between each equivalent position of each battery bank