Speed 3

All readings were taking with the l.e.d lights "on"

Rhyah:


Thank you sir...
Going for the 100A shunt, is it fine?
Battery: 220Ah
Inverter: 12V 1100KVA approx. 880
Charging current: 15A

Pls you could explain with some calculations so I can learn from that too
Thanks

It should work.

Hi folks, my friend is looking for some temperature controller that can turn on/off air-conditioner at predetermined temperature at a remote off-grid site. I'm thinking of this.Does anyone have a better idea?

mank1234:


1) there are times you want manual operation
2) transfer time is in milliseconds
3) not everyone one know how to connect contactor (energizing input) esp as you need 2NO2NC contactor to achieve both input isolation
4) it has indicator light to know which power source is available.
5) visual feedback. With contactor, you can't tell by mere looking which power source is supplying power.
6) individual preference

Transfer time is also in milliseconds, an indicator can be installed. Just my opinion.

Dam5reey:


On top 10k automatic/manual solution

Less than 8ms, neatly package product..

Unless you are using handmade Inverter and charge controller then I will take it serious..

Oga that's me for you, I love doing it myself

ojtech8291:
Thank you. Sorry, the 4 panels are in parallel not in series.

Oh, its a hybrid inverter.
Chk the manual..the corresponding voltage setpoints for the diff battery types should be there..

275w x 4 in parallel and over 20m cable run..hmmm.thats over 34amps @ 24v
You need 2awg or 35mm cable..

Obviously you can see that whosoever designed this setup is deficient in basic solar wiring fundamentals

However all is not lost, changing to 2s2p connection, would allow you use 10mm cables

What is the max Voc of the CC?

Penuelseun:
Oga that's me for you, I love doing it myself

Is this a theoritical or actual setup?.
Would love to see pics of it.

earthrealm:


Is this a theoritical or actual setup?.
Would love to see pics of it.

It is an actual setup, been using it for over a year, used this type

Penuelseun:
It is an actual setup, been using it for over a year, used this type

I mean a pic showing the whole setup/wiring.
Wanna compare the aesthetics vis a vis the cost with the ATS

Janyves:
So.. here we go.
A.c mode

Thanks for being detailed.

Speed 1 - 7.4 watts
Speed 2 - 11.5 watts
Speed 3 - 16.1 watts

So that implies the advertised 10 watts is just the average consumption.

Janyves:
All readings were taking with the l.e.d lights "on"

Oh, that sounds better too.

I'll try to check the consumption of the QASA DC/AC I have for comparison.

earthrealm:


I mean a pic showing the whole setup/wiring.
Wanna compare the aesthetics vis a vis the cost with the ATS

Ok, will do that when I get home

earthrealm:


I mean a pic showing the whole setup/wiring.
Wanna compare the aesthetics vis a vis the cost with the ATS

Baba, sometimes it's not about the aesthetics alone. Though the major aim for DIY is getting your hands busy while saving money some people just bypass the saving money aspect for knowledge.

I might be wrong but I think that's what he went for.

mctfopt:
Hi folks, my friend is looking for some temperature controller that can turn on/off air-conditioner at predetermined temperature at a remote off-grid site. I'm thinking of this.Does anyone have a better idea?

I think I've bumped into a binatone product on Jumia or maybe Konga that may work in that manner. I'll check if I can retrieve the info.

Penuelseun:
It is an actual setup, been using it for over a year, used this type

That's relays used in cars, abi?

Please folks.

150w/12v panel in 4s2p configuration

versus

300w/24v panel in 2s2p configuration

All for a 12v system on MPPT CC

All factors (Panel brand, solar insolation, wire types/gauges) being equal in both scenarios

From experience, are there gonna be any differences in charging input/efficiency from the panels in either scenarios?

ceaser:


I think I've bumped into a binatone product on Jumia or maybe Konga that may work in that manner. I'll check if I can retrieve the info.

That will be awesome. Thank you.

ceaser:
Please folks.

150w/12v panel in 4s2p configuration

versus

300w/24v panel in 2s2p configuration

All for a 12v system on MPPT CC

All factors (Panel brand, solar insolation, wire types/gauges) being equal in both scenarios

From experience, are there gonna be any differences in charging input/efficiency from the panels in either scenarios?

The two scenarios appears to be same IMO. Though I'll opt for the latter due to ease of connection.

mctfopt:


That will be awesome. Thank you.

It does have temperature sensor and AC guard features. But I'm not sure the temperature sensor does anything like one-off functions.

mctfopt:


I noticed that one had 100ah lithium and the other 200ah ..is it same lithium batteries?

Yes. Lithium ion batteries

earthrealm:


Hahahahahaha.
Exact same sh,it, i need as well.
Seems we are thinking the same tots.
The device upthere with a timer switch will solve the problem i had been thinking of for months.

I ordered via ali early last month, after asking here and no one stocked it, will see when it arrives

Okay, I saw the video of the stuff. It's a good one. However I have some reservations which may or may not be valid.

Seeing that it was tested on only a TV in that video, it may not be effective with any load heavier than that. The best use scenario of something like this woulda been to change over between two solar set ups or batteries. But seeing that the switch may not support heavy loads that may be on a set up, it's use may only be limited to AC socket points that supply each appliance in which case it can serve to switch between grid source and solar source.

Is my assumption right?

Edited: I checked back on the specs and saw the 63amps and 100amps @ 230v options. Thats up to 23kw. I think it will work fine as a central switch over.

That item is a big problem solver right there.

earthrealm:


Oh, its a hybrid inverter.
Chk the manual..the corresponding voltage setpoints for the diff battery types should be there..

275w x 4 in parallel and over 20m cable run..hmmm.thats over 34amps @ 24v
You need 2awg or 35mm cable..

Obviously you can see that whosoever designed this setup is deficient in basic solar wiring fundamentals

However all is not lost, changing to 2s2p connection, would allow you use 10mm cables

What is the max Voc of the CC?

once again thank you. The picture there is the cc. It is not a hybrid inverter. What is on the manual is just the battery type selector which I selected correctly.
Are you referring to battery cable or the wire from the array? Because I used 35mm for battery and 2 core 6mm wire for the panels.
I did the design and it has worked for other cc.
I will go for advice on 2s2p
The max VOC is around 100Vmp.

I am not sure that one in the link will work for you because it will switch off when temperature gets high which makes it more suited for a heater than for an AC that you want to stop when the temperature gets low.
Most AC have the feature for setting the temperature anyway, why an external device?

mctfopt:
Hi folks, my friend is looking for some temperature controller that can turn on/off air-conditioner at predetermined temperature at a remote off-grid site. I'm thinking of this.Does anyone have a better idea?

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100A, 180v Yohako MPPT charge controller available, #150000. Call/WhatsApp us on 08168986461

200Ah 12v Ss power battery available, #95000. Call/WhatsApp us on 08168986461

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Kodartech:
Tired of regular blackouts? Unable to afford a commercial solar setup, we got you covered, meet k-1000, your pay as you go solar and smart home controller that comes with a 1000w inverter, a 250w solar panel, a 100ah battery and the ability to monitor and control your devices and home in real time. Find out more on[url]arduiot.com.ng[/url]

What's the duration of the payment plans i.e number of months. And what's the total for each plan?

ojesymsym:
I am not sure that one in the link will work for you because it will switch off when temperature gets high which makes it more suited for a heater than for an AC that you want to stop when the temperature gets low.
Most AC have the feature for setting the temperature anyway, why an external device?

The blue one. The idea is to save energy. You don't want the AC to be running when temperature is ok and draining juice needed by other devices.

I think I understand what you mean. You want the AC to shut down when temperature is already around 22 degrees centigrade right?
Okay, the blue knob allows for temperature down to a set value. You are right.
Can that thing handle the current requirement of an AC? I do not think so, it says there 2amps.

mctfopt:



The blue one. The idea is to save energy. You don't want the AC to be running when temperature is ok and draining juice needed by other devices.

ojtech8291:
once again thank you. The picture there is the cc. It is not a hybrid inverter. What is on the manual is just the battery type selector which I selected correctly.
Are you referring to battery cable or the wire from the array? Because I used 35mm for battery and 2 core 6mm wire for the panels.
I did the design and it has worked for other cc.
I will go for advice on 2s2p
The max VOC is around 100Vmp.

i mean panel to cc.you need 35mm, if you line up the panels in 4p1s
since Voc is 100v, change the setup to 2s2p...and observe, 10mm is the recommended cable size, 6mm, you will have some losses.
ooh, looks very big to be just a CC alone, for a 20m run, that your design is wrong for the system you outlined above, it would be performing sub optimally,

Resistance increases with length
The reason different wire lengths bear different ratings is because the electrical resistance builds up as the cable gets longer. At that point, up-sizing the power cable will restore the voltage to its intended level.

Acceptable Power Loss
Undersizing the wire size will result in excessive power (watts) being lost in the wires rather than delivered to the load (battery bank, inverter. Typically we recommend the power loss below 5%.

Voltage Drop
A 5% voltage drop causes an approximate 10% loss in light output. Voltage drop causes a nearly proportional drop in light output. A voltage drop greater than 5% will reduce this necessary voltage difference, and can reduce charge current to the battery by a much greater percentage. Our general recommendation here is to size for a 2-3% voltage drop. If you think that the PV array may be expanded in the future, size the wire for future expansion.

Don't choke the flow of power
On the other hand, installing too large a wire gauge doesn't really have a downside, but there is the potential for better performance. Obviously, there's no need to buy 2-gauge wiring when 10-gauge will do. That kind of overkill would be a waste of money. But if the calculator could lean either way between two sizes, going with the larger wire size would be the smart choice.

essegis:


Baba, sometimes it's not about the aesthetics alone. Though the major aim for DIY is getting your hands busy while saving money some people just bypass the saving money aspect for knowledge.

I might be wrong but I think that's what he went for.

i said aesthetics vis a vis cost.............................seems you missed that