dapsyra:


It doesn't matter whether it is poly or mono. What matters is the current and voltage ratings.

Poly vs. Mono are just manufacturing techniques that don't change the laws of Electricity. The CC don't know and don't care whether it is mono or poly

For series connection, match the current but, match the voltage for parallel connections and you are good to go.

earthrealm:


Yeah i know that...just trying to simplify it for him
300w poly and 300w mono....same brand will have major differences/variation in Vmp.

While 300w of most common brands will have close/similar Vmp.
I hv mixed renogy usa, myhome, sunfit mono panels..no shaking cos their Vmp was quite close

adrusa:


I will certainly be glad to share my flow if I understand how it may help you. Node-red on home assistant is a great automation setup. I was using electronic timers, but I have replaced them all with esp based switches. Makes my home easy to manage.

essegis:


Thanks. The set up is actually 12v (24p4s) system.

I understand Ojeysky explanation from your previous answer so I will take my time to check each one by one under load. I might have to check across the individual screws as they are all set on a bussbars but even with that the faulty ones will show face.

I will let you have the answer when I'm done.

adrusa:


I will certainly be glad to share my flow if I understand how it may help you. Node-red on home assistant is a great automation setup. I was using electronic timers, but I have replaced them all with esp based switches. Makes my home easy to manage.

olatade:
Men in the house. I'm planning on upgrading from lead acid to lithium so i need expert review on this battery.

Is it a good buy �? Will i regret on the long run?

Can a hybrid luminous inverter charge it effectively?

thanks for your anticipated response

ceaser:


Lol @ Museum.

Na real museum of sun energy. Mr. NiyiOmolyunade is in the heavyweight category.

Thank you o Mr. Niyi for being of reliable help in times of need. It appears one other thing that gives you exhilaration is probably having more people jump on the AE train. God bless you, keep up the good work.

I shared to neighbours that usually come to charge their phones in my crib, all my AGMs when I settled for the lightweight league Lithium, having upgraded from the featherweight lithium category. That encouraged them to get small sized (9k modified wave) inverters and at least one 150w panel to power basic things - lights, charging, 19 inches TVs mostly and Gotv. Even some of them that were hitherto on MTN lumous started to blame themselves for that bondage.

The community has no grid power yet and I was the only one on reliable AE. Aside from the reduced traffic of phone and torchlight charging at my place , It's always a thing of joy to see rays from light bulbs shine thru their windows at night when I pass by.

earthrealm:


You didnt see my review of yingli 280w poly panels.
That shit routinely delivers in excess of nameplate energy rating.

mcTrinity:


Same with Canadian Solar

earthrealm:


Yingli does it at half the cost

mctfopt:



1: Just make sure the roof no too slope. The best angle is an almost flat surface (for Naija) for overall better performance throughout the year. But if it's a high pitched roofs of up to and over 48 degrees, you should consider a professional roof mount with a tilt leg to put the panel at this almost horizontal angle for optimum yield.


2. Incorporating a renewable energy only DB is an awesome adventure to embark on. This truly makes the addition of an inverter almost seamless. Also you'll never run into a condition that your inverter is forced to power an equipment you don't want to run on it. This is why banks and other firms have a dedicated "UPS DB" to cater for loads such as PC, printers, etc that needs to be always on in the event of a power changeover or failure. So I'll recommend you go for it.

earthrealm:

Ans to question 1...nope

Ans to question 2. ..nope/not necessary.
Buy a 3 phase db, 1 phase for all light & socket points, you want on inverter/solar..the other 2 phases for your non inverter loads....finis

ojeysky:


I will be interested in doing this as well, as I have been relying on timer sockets for some of my appliances. If you don't mind, can you explain how to get just one appliance set-up for such management? I am more interested in the electrical part; how it interface with your home circuit and the software part.

earthrealm:


Yingli does it at half the cost

futurenix:
Hello house of solar

I have a 12V 105AH Pb acid (VR) battery whose spec sheet indicates the

1. Charging Method for cycle use as:

Control voltage: 14.4V to 14.9V
Initial current: 42.0A or smaller

2. Cut off voltage:

Cut off voltage/Discharge current:
10.5V/5.25A-21.0A
10.2V/21.0A-52.5A
9.9V/52.5A-105A
9.3V/105A-210A
These values make it seem it's safe to run down to it and nothing will happen except cycle life but ...



I have a 24V hybrid inverter whose maximum low DC cut off voltage is 24V.

My inquiries with its appreciated response are

What voltage is recommended for:
Bulk charge, float charge, equalization voltage.

What is the specified time for equalization of Pb acid battery and how long in between equalization (in days)

As per the low DC cut off voltage, 50% DoD is about 24.12V while 30% is 24.6V (from charts I have seen online and here) but the inverter has just 24V.

Is there a digital device I can install in between the inverter and battery to disconnect supply to inverter at my set DoD.

Also on LFP batteries, between the cylindrical and prismatic type, which is more preferable

olatade:
Men in the house. I'm planning on upgrading from lead acid to lithium so i need expert review on this battery.

Is it a good buy �? Will i regret on the long run?

Can a hybrid luminous inverter charge it effectively?

thanks for your anticipated response

kiekie1:


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ojtech8291:
Please I need prices for the Best Standalone battery charge with auto cut-off and a good multimeter with DC amp reading up to 40A-50A or meter and battery tester. Thank you

ojeysky:


Battery and inverter for that price or was it a typo?

ojeysky:


For LFP? I have some adjustable current and voltage 12v 50A chargers that just came in. It's 50k each.

ojeysky:


For LFP? I have some adjustable current and voltage 12v 50A chargers that just came in. It's 50k each.

ojeysky:


Let's just say it's one of the disadvantages we get for not going premium, I guess we should just leave with that I set mine to the 24v cut-off but I endeavour not to get to that level in the first place because mine is LFP, I think with lead acid you should be fine with 24v.
On the LFP question, both are fine though I prefer the prismatic as I get to work with fewer cells but it's a matter of preference not performance

ojtech8291:
I have 24V inverter now. Is it possible to charge two batteries in series with 24V2.5KVA without issue? They are new batteries. I want to charge before installation

saint2ace:


Can it be used for lead acid battery?