Good day pals.... I've got a lexus es 330 2004... that's been having various issues for sometime now.... these issues include;
Rough idle/misfiring...
Shorts engine oil regularly...
Doesn't accelerate fast enough for a v6.(even v4 better)
Then engine doesn't seem to produce enough power when accelerating....
Consumes fuel.....
.
So I decided to take the car for a scan and the technician advised that if I can afford it... I should change the engine...(that's after the following codesteps popped up...

P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire)
P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire)
P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire)
P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire)
P0325 (knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction bank1 or 1 sensor)
P0330 ( knock sensor 2 circuit malfunction (bank2))
P1135 (manufacturer control fuel air metering)
P1351 (manufacturer control ignition system or misfire)

NB- Codes P0300,p0302, p0303,p1351 all reappeared again.

Before now I had changed all coils and plugs...


Let's hear ur own opinions

How are your tires? Out of round tires can cause vibrations that cause misfire codes

If memory serves me right even a bad serpentine belt can do that as well on that engine.

As for the other codes, wiring issues, component failures, even the ECU in a worse case scenario.

Stop using trial and error technicians, get a proper techie to work for you

Worst case scenario the engine may need an overhaul.


Perform wiring and component integrity tests to zero in on what's wrong.

DON'T EVER THINK OF REPLACING THAT ENGINE SO SOON.
1. For the misfire codes, there are lots of causes.

*brittle valve cover seals allows engine oil seepage into spark plug ports, hindering spark ignition production in the combustion chamber of the vehicle.
Oil intrusions into the combustion chamber might give you a wrong impression of an engine worn out.

*worn out piston rings are a likelihood in this situation. But this depends on how often you've replaced your engine oil.

* recheck the spark plugs and coils you have had replaced.
A micro crack on any of the spark plugs, ceramic insulation, would allow voltage leaks needed for combustion.
Insufficient voltage for spark ignition, would trigger this code.
Same thing goes for the ignition coils.

*faulty or clogged fuel injectors, are salient culprits you may not ha e investigated.
Ask your mechanic to remove and assess them for carbon deposits problems, or failures.
Get them cleaned using carb cleaner, and replaced, if need be.

*lastly could be a wiring harness problems of any of the ignition coils, fuel injectors, etc.
Perform power and ground tests using a digital meter.
Saves you unnecessary replacement in parts.


2. The knock related codes could be that you have an open or short circuit problems on that circuitry.
Has the engine being exhibiting any knocking sound?
If it has, the codes came on because it was trying to protect from engine damage(such knocks occurs because of preignition, or detonations) by retarding or advancing the timing.
Neglect these codes, if they don't appear, after erasing them with a scantool, or removal of a battery terminal.

3. The manufacturer codes needs a scan tool that can generically interpret Toyota based codes.

4. Finally, since the only codes remaining are the misfire codes(#2&3), and the manufacturer specific one, I'd advise you to focus more on cylinders 2 and 3.



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)


PS: Don't replaced that engine yet. Try all the simple steps above first, before concluding on an engine replacement or rebuild.

If you don't hear any knocking noise on that engine, there's no need replacing the engine.

Hope this helps you out.

That's a valve cover seal. Notice how the seal is brittled. Engine oil seeps into the spark plug ports every now and then.

That's another consequence of allowing oil to seep into the combustion chamber as a result of brittle valve cover seals, and sometimes, worn out piston rings.
Example here is for a Honda accord we rebuilt last week.

AutoElectNG:
How are your tires? Out of round tires can cause vibrations that cause misfire codes

If memory serves me right even a bad serpentine belt can do that as well on that engine.

As for the other codes, wiring issues, component failures, even the ECU in a worse case scenario.

Stop using trial and error technicians, get a proper techie to work for you

Worst case scenario the engine may need an overhaul.


Perform wiring and component integrity tests to zero in on what's wrong.

It seems the major issue i have may be getting good workmanship...
As I have moved from one "reputable looking" auto workshop to another and have done various scan checks on this car...

TRYGO:
That's a valve cover seal. Notice how the seal is brittled. Engine oil seeps into the spark plug ports every now and then.

there was a time say 2 months ago.. I experienced this... we changed the oil seals... so as to prevent the plug from soaking up oil.... since then... it didn't soak up any oil.... but the car finds it difficult to accelerate properly... and consumes alot of fuel.... it has a very terrible idle

TRYGO:
DON'T EVER THINK OF REPLACING THAT ENGINE SO SOON.
1. For the misfire codes, there are lots of causes.

*brittle valve cover seals allows engine oil seepage into spark plug ports, hindering spark ignition production in the combustion chamber of the vehicle.
Oil intrusions into the combustion chamber might give you a wrong impression of an engine worn out.

*worn out piston rings are a likelihood in this situation. But this depends on how often you've replaced your engine oil.

* recheck the spark plugs and coils you have had replaced.
A micro crack on any of the spark plugs, ceramic insulation, would allow voltage leaks needed for combustion.
Insufficient voltage for spark ignition, would trigger this code.
Same thing goes for the ignition coils.

*faulty or clogged fuel injectors, are salient culprits you may not ha e investigated.
Ask your mechanic to remove and assess them for carbon deposits problems, or failures.
Get them cleaned using carb cleaner, and replaced, if need be.

*lastly could be a wiring harness problems of any of the ignition coils, fuel injectors, etc.
Perform power and ground tests using a digital meter.
Saves you unnecessary replacement in parts.


2. The knock related codes could be that you have an open or short circuit problems on that circuitry.
Has the engine being exhibiting any knocking sound?
If it has, the codes came on because it was trying to protect from engine damage(such knocks occurs because of preignition, or detonations) by retarding or advancing the timing.
Neglect these codes, if they don't appear, after erasing them with a scantool, or removal of a battery terminal.

3. The manufacturer codes needs a scan tool that can generically interpret Toyota based codes.

4. Finally, since the only codes remaining are the misfire codes(#2&3), and the manufacturer specific one, I'd advise you to focus more on cylinders 2 and 3.



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)


PS: Don't replaced that engine yet. Try all the simple steps above first, before concluding on an engine replacement or rebuild.

If you don't hear any knocking noise on that engine, there's no need replacing the engine.

Hope this helps you out.

Thanks for bringing out ur time to my aid... God/Allah bless you...

The engine doesn't exhibit any knocking sound... the check engine light blinks once in a while...

If no knocking sound, your engine is perfectly OK.
You just need to sort out the reasons for the misfires. That would fix the issues with your car presently.
I wished I could see the car!

https://www.nairaland.com/4709515/someone-please-poor-little-lexus/1#70893904

This ya poor little Lexus sha... You buy am tokunbo or Naija used?

Your problem is simple and you gave the answer already you just don't know how to put things together.

You mentioned changing plugs and coils and you have a list of the problem cylinders.

What you need to do is the drop test to eliminate bad coils, plugs or wires.

Now you can swap the coils on 2 and 6 to figure out if coil on 2 was bad then do the same for coils 3&4

Watch the youtube video below


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlfqoGEECYQ

thebigkendo:
https://www.nairaland.com/4709515/someone-please-poor-little-lexus/1#70893904

This ya poor little Lexus sha... You buy am tokunbo or Naija used?

naija used o

sultaan:
Your problem is simple and you gave the answer already you just don't know how to put things together.

You mentioned changing plugs and coils and you have a list of the problem cylinders.

What you need to do is the drop test to eliminate bad coils, plugs or wires.

Now you can swap the coils on 2 and 6 to figure out if coil on 2 was bad then do the same for coils 3&4

Watch the youtube video below


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlfqoGEECYQ

will try that out right away

Flames000:
Good day pals.... I've got a lexus es 330 2004... that's been having various issues for sometime now.... these issues include;
Rough idle/misfiring...
Shorts engine oil regularly...
Doesn't accelerate fast enough for a v6.(even v4 better)
Then engine doesn't seem to produce enough power when accelerating....
Consumes fuel.....
.
So I decided to take the car for a scan and the technician advised that if I can afford it... I should change the engine...(that's after the following codesteps popped up...

P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire)
P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire)
P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire)
P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire)
P0325 (knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction bank1 or 1 sensor)
P0330 ( knock sensor 2 circuit malfunction (bank2))
P1135 (manufacturer control fuel air metering)
P1351 (manufacturer control ignition system or misfire)

NB- Codes P0300,p0302, p0303,p1351 all reappeared again.

Before now I had changed all coils and plugs...


Let's hear ur own opinions

Please, list all other things you've done to fix the car.
All codes relate to intake system.

So I'll recommend you do the following:
Check fuel pump filter
Do a pressure test on the fuel pump and compare result with standard expectation
Check fuel injectors for blockage
Check throttle body if butterfly is blocked
Check air filter
Confirm state of ignition coils and spark plugs.

If all the above are clean and operating properly, you shouldn't have any performance issues

timifakay:


Please, list all other things you've done to fix the car.
All codes relate to intake system.

So I'll recommend you do the following:
Check fuel pump filter
Do a pressure test on the fuel pump and compare result with standard expectation
Check fuel injectors for blockage
Check throttle body if butterfly is blocked
Check air filter
Confirm state of ignition coils and spark plugs.

If all the above are clean and operating properly, you shouldn't have any performance issues

I hv changed fuel pumps
Coils and plugs
Air filter
Fuel nozzles
Carried out electrical tests



I weak

Flames000:

I hv changed fuel pumps
Coils and plugs
Air filter
Fuel nozzles
Carried out electrical tests



I weak

Wrong procedure...you are supposed to carry out mechanical and electrical tests before replacing things, you don't just replace willy nilly

Where are you based?

AutoElectNG:


Wrong procedure...you are supposed to carry out mechanical and electrical tests before replacing things, you don't just replace willy nilly

Where are you based?

Delta asaba

Flames000:

Delta asaba

We need to talk offline about how I can send help your way.

AutoElectNG:
How are your tires? Out of round tires can cause vibrations that cause misfire codes

tyres causing missfire never is trillion years

the missfire codes are pointing to plugs and coilpack

1st the codes are saying missfire per individual cylinder

2nd there are saying system ignition missfire likely coilpack
3rd mostly thats what is triggering the knock sensor since the missfire

ZIMDRILL:


tyres causing missfire never is trillion years

the missfire codes are pointing to plugs and coilpack

1st the codes are saying missfire per individual cylinder

2nd there are saying system ignition missfire likely coilpack
3rd mostly thats what is triggering the knock sensor since the missfire

Sounding funny? Specifically about the tires causing misfires....and by the way it was one of a long list of possibilities, and never did I say it was the reason in this case

It is on reddit, check it out, I have personally confirmed it on a 3mzfe engine twice

By the way that comment was specifically placed there because he claimed to have changed coils but the misfires didn't go away

Once again let me restate this is no internet folklore and that A has not experienced something does not mean it has not or cannot happen or will not happen to B

AutoElectNG:


Sounding funny? Specifically about the tires causing misfires....and by the way it was one of a long list of possibilities, and never did I say it was the reason in this case

It is on reddit, check it out, I have personally confirmed it on a 3mzfe engine twice

By the way that comment was specifically placed there because he claimed to have changed coils but the misfires didn't go away

Once again let me restate this is no internet folklore and that A has not experienced something does not mean it has not or cannot happen or will not happen to B

tyre will never cause misfire no matter what


i can tell you are not a mechanic yes tyre can have a bump which will make the ride bumpy and if he coil is not tied enough it might cause a misfire but it doesnt mean its the tyre causing it NO its the coil pack or cable not being tight enough

being on reddit doesnt mean its correct reddit is for people who got no clue how things work

ZIMDRILL:


tyre will never cause misfire no matter what


i can tell you are not a mechanic yes tyre can have a bump which will make the ride bumpy and if he coil is not tied enough it might cause a misfire but it doesnt mean its the tyre causing it NO its the coil pack or cable not being tight enough

being on reddit doesnt mean its correct reddit is for people who got no clue how things work

I repeat

I have reproduced this twice.

At all speeds below 80km no misfire.

At all speeds above 80km the check engine light starts blinking.

When the OBD II readout is done, it shows misfire codes.

Now this is the layman explanation.

The tire creates vibrations, the coils pick up the vibrations and send wrong inputs to the ECM.

The ECM in turn sets misfire codes.

Those codes go away at all speeds less than 80 and always return at all speeds greater than 80.

The challenge is open, I have reproduced it twice on Siennas running 3MZ-FE.

I wanted to share it months ago but cancelled at the last minute.

Once tire was replaced the misfires went away.

The faulty tire was the front right tire in both cases.

I have not tested it in other positions.

I researched it some more and a Toyota technician confirmed he has seen it too overseas.

Go figure!

In both cases, the problem tire had seen better days, and should have been replaced a while ago but the client was buying time to source for funds for a replacement!

AutoElectNG:


I repeat

I have reproduced this twice.

At all speeds below 80km no misfire.

At all speeds above 80km the check engine light starts blinking.

When the OBD II readout is done, it shows misfire codes.

Now this is the layman explanation.

The tire creates vibrations, the coils pick up the vibrations and send wrong inputs to the ECM.

The ECM in turn sets misfire codes.

Those codes go away at all speeds less than 80 and always return at all speeds greater than 80.

The challenge is open, I have reproduced it twice on Siennas running 3MZ-FE.

I wanted to share it months ago but cancelled at the last minute.

Once tire was replaced the misfires went away.

The faulty tire was the front right tire in both cases.

I have not tested it in other positions.

I researched it some more and a Toyota technician confirmed he has seen it too overseas.

Go figure!

In both cases, the problem tire had seen better days, and should have been replaced a while ago but the client was buying time to source for funds for a replacement!

my friend is a tyre can cause vibration that triggers misfire through the coil pack then the coilpack is fault its means with a even a good tyre in bumpy road a misfire will be triggered


so the problem would not be tyres but loose connection somewhere, yes tyres triggered but the problem would be there waiting to be triggered by anything

check these tests on they and with your theory then a missfire will be always triggered


i dont research i work with cars, electronics is my play field, yes vibration trigger things if not correctly tightened, in this case as you say tyres triggers a misfire, how much vibration as the driver are you getting that a fully working coilpack fail, while the ride is still very comfortable

my conclusion yes vibration from tyres was there but still a missfire will occurs again, did you work on the car or you were told of the causes of the misfire

let me tell you one trade secret, mechanics and electricians usually do, sometimes customers brings in cars and they tell you what they think is the problem half of the time there are wrong, if they present a faulty thats looks like a big job and if i find out that it is 2 secs job i still, charge and tell that i worked on the faulty and tell them indeed thats was the problem. but reality it would be the case

about a month ago a customer brought in an audi a5 the car wouldnt start, he changed the battery still nothing, the guy was so much in hurry he wanted the car to be fixed straight away plugged the car to the computer no codes, he suggested a new starter we ordered one and it was to be delivered the next morning so he left the car. me being an electrician checked all the wire on the battery connector, audis and bwms sometimes they have more than one positive wire linked to main positive thick battery cable, one of the small positive wire had blown the fuse, changed the fuse and the car started. but since the customer suggested the starter i went along with his starter story charged him for a changing the starter so it him the problem was the starter. as for us the garage the problem was £2 fuse on the positive terminal of the battery

that pic is the audi A5 positive battery terminal inside the box are other 12v lines that feed directly from the terminal and are fused

thats what i believe happened to this tyres causing missfire story



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gunkYqLbT4

ZIMDRILL:


my friend is a tyre can cause vibration that triggers misfire through the coil pack then the coilpack is fault its means with a even a good tyre in bumpy road a misfire will be triggered

If the coil pack were faulty then why didn't the misfire return till date in both cases. By the way, I have fixed misfires from faulty coils and spark plugs, but this one was different, I insist this happened, client knew he needed a tire change, thought it could wait a few weeks, then one day tire became so bad, it caused vibrations over a certain speed that affected ignition system operation and set misfire codes, like I have said before, I independently recreated the problem.

You said good tire, I said a bad tire that was itself causing vibrations when driven above a certain speed, vibrations that the coils picked up or that affected coil operations.

so the problem would not be tyres but loose connection somewhere, yes tyres triggered but the problem would be there waiting to be triggered by anything



check these tests on they and with your theory then a missfire will be always triggered

In the instant cases I described and in the conditions I inspected, nothing was loose.

i dont research i work with cars, electronics is my play field, yes vibration trigger things if not correctly tightened, in this case as you say tyres triggers a misfire, how much vibration as the driver are you getting that a fully working coilpack fail, while the ride is still very comfortable

With all due respect and humility, I am a polymath, I admit to being an astute researcher, but let me also tell you that I have invested significant resources in formally learning automotive electronics and continue to invest to remain current, so your comments and observations above are in the very list uncharitable, I too love to play with electronics, which has been a passion since childhood so I just had to make it happen.

Did I say that the ride was very comfortable? When the vibrations started, the ride was no longer comfortable, initially the client thought it was a matter of merely reducing the speed below when it would cause the vehicle to vibrate or manage the vibrations until the vibrations caused the blinking check engine light then he knew something was amiss and came to me and I diagnosed that he had better replace the tire


Those who know a lot also know that there is so much that they don't know.

https://medium.com/@michaeldsimmons/people-who-have-too-many-interests-are-more-likely-to-be-successful-according-to-research-d46aadcea87e

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymath

my conclusion yes vibration from tyres was there but still a missfire will occurs again, did you work on the car or you were told of the causes of the misfire

I wrote it I did it not like it was reported to me

let me tell you one trade secret, mechanics and electricians usually do, sometimes customers brings in cars and they tell you what they think is the problem half of the time there are wrong, if they present a faulty thats looks like a big job and if i find out that it is 2 secs job i still, charge and tell that i worked on the faulty and tell them indeed thats was the problem. but reality it would be the case

thats what i believe happened to this tyres causing missfire story



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gunkYqLbT4[/quote

In my spare time, I will provide additional proof that this is no conjecture, once again this was personal experience and not reported to me

Source:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/2as8y3/2005_toyota_sienna_33l_fwd_multiple_cylinder/

For the post the story here or I don't believe it it crew (see below):

Zimdrill, I think you badly need more of a open mind...I think it is one the greatest assets anyone can have!

Remember that I did not deny that I do my homework (aka research)

I think is also a perfect answer to those who believe that all my technical knowledge is limited to what the factory manual states, I know there are things the factory manual does not address, and so I look way beyond the factory manual when seeking solutions to problems of cars that I deal with