Macmilla:

How do I know mine has been welded? What are the symptoms it will give?
Also do they do the welding inside the actuator or somewhere external? I couldn't see any sign of welding or previous opening on the actuator. So I'm confused.
I'm the second user, so I can't say what the first user has done probably to get rid of the rattle. But I don't like throwing parts at a car.
I currently have p0011 code, rough idle (vibration at idle), a bit long crank before start.
The p0011 keeps coming back after about 2 drives.

Co-ask abeg

Macmilla:

How do I know mine has been welded? What are the symptoms it will give?
Also do they do the welding inside the actuator or somewhere external? I couldn't see any sign of welding or previous opening on the actuator. So I'm confused.
I'm the second user, so I can't say what the first user has done probably to get rid of the rattle. But I don't like throwing parts at a car.
I currently have p0011 code, rough idle (vibration at idle), a bit long crank before start.
The p0011 keeps coming back after about 2 drives.

This is where your problem started from the opening post

I recently worked on my 4 cylinder engine that makes a 2 seconds rattling noise after starting each morning

Undo what they did. Simple

Replace the VTC actuator, any toks will do and I will tell you how to fix.

I recently watched a video and did the fix properly.

Macmilla:

How do I know mine has been welded? What are the symptoms it will give?
Also do they do the welding inside the actuator or somewhere external? I couldn't see any sign of welding or previous opening on the actuator. So I'm confused.
I'm the second user, so I can't say what the first user has done probably to get rid of the rattle. But I don't like throwing parts at a car.
I currently have p0011 code, rough idle (vibration at idle), a bit long crank before start.
The p0011 keeps coming back after about 2 drives.

They either weld or put something inside to permanently lock it.

If P0011 always returns, Yes it is locked. You experience lack of power especially above 2500rpm and rough Idle

adanny01:


They either weld or put something inside to permanently lock it.

If P0011 always returns, Yes it is locked. You experience lack of power especially above 2500rpm and rough Idle

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

Macmilla:

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

For this tinubu era, no do am o.

Macmilla:

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

Are you by any chance in Ibadan?

theadeola:


Are you by any chance in Ibadan?

Nah.
I'm in far-away Minna.
Do you need my kazeem skills?

Macmilla:

Nah.
I'm in far-away Minna.
Do you need my kazeem skills?

Chei

Your kazeem skills would come in handy my brother

adanny01:


They either weld or put something inside to permanently lock it.

If P0011 always returns, Yes it is locked. You experience lack of power especially above 2500rpm and rough Idle

It's a bit inverse for me.

Yes, my p0011 always returns, but the engine looks unopened and I don't have a lack of power above 2500 rpm. If anything, the car shoots forward like a bullet once I reach 3000-3500 rpm.

My idle is also butter smooth.

Do you have any ideas about what can be wrong?

theadeola:


It's a bit inverse for me.

Yes, my p0011 always returns, but the engine looks unopened and I don't have a lack of power above 2500 rpm. If anything, the car shoots forward like a bullet once I reach 3000-3500 rpm.

My idle is also butter smooth.

Do you have any ideas about what can be wrong?

This p0011 na witch. I still don't understand it.
But for diagnosis, the list below is the order to follow
1. Engine oil (low, old, or wrong thickness).
2. VTC strainer (blockage by dirt)
3. VTC solenoid (not working)
4. VTC actuator
5. Cam position sensor
6. Oil channels (if you open the VTC actuator and see fresh oil, then your channels are good.
7. Oil pump timing (if off, will cause vibrations as well)
8. ECU

If none of these fails to fix the code, just set the car on fire.

Macmilla:

This p0011 na witch. I still don't understand it.
But for diagnosis, the list below is the order to follow
1. Engine oil (low, old, or wrong thickness).
2. VTC strainer (blockage by dirt)
3. VTC solenoid (not working)
4. VTC actuator
5. Cam position sensor
6. Oil channels (if you open the VTC actuator and see fresh oil, then your channels are good.
7. Oil pump timing (if off, will cause vibrations as well)
8. ECU

If none of these fails to fix the code, just set the car on fire.

Abeg o. For this tinubu era.

No 1 is not an issue now, was an issue when I bought the car. Have done three oil changes since then, more frequent than normal, just to clean the insides of the engine as the previous owner was TERRIBLE with oil changes. Use the right oil weight currently.

Changed the vtc solenoid too, same thing. Vtc strainer was cleaned and returned, so also out.

As for the oil pump timing, I highly doubt this, as the engine is unopened and I have don't have any out of the ordinary vibration. But just to know, what kinds of vibrations will oil pump timing cause?

theadeola:




Abeg o. For this tinubu era.

No 1 is not an issue now, was an issue when I bought the car. Have done three oil changes since then, more frequent than normal, just to clean the insides of the engine as the previous owner was TERRIBLE with oil changes. Use the right oil weight currently.

Changed the vtc solenoid too, same thing. Vtc strainer was cleaned and returned, so also out.

As for the oil pump timing, I highly doubt this, as the engine is unopened and I have don't have any out of the ordinary vibration. But just to know, what kinds of vibrations will oil pump timing cause?

Maybe like a Love Machine.
The balance shaft is on the oil pump and has to be in synchrony with the crank shaft. If it's not, then your engine turns into a vibrator. Any woman in this forum can explain better.

Macmilla:

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

Before you opened it up, were u experiencing the rattle sound at cold start?

If the P0011 returns, next thing to check is the VTC oil screen then the VTC solenoid which has screens too. Any of the 2 clogged screen will also cause the P0011. Low oil pressure could cause it too. That means, change engine oil filter.

Macmilla:

Maybe like a Love Machine.
The balance shaft is on the oil pump and has to be in synchrony with the crank shaft. If it's not, then your engine turns into a vibrator. Any woman in this forum can explain better.

I definitely do not have this issue.

adanny01:


Before you opened it up, were u experiencing the rattle sound at cold start?

If the P0011 returns, next thing to check is the VTC oil screen then the VTC solenoid which has screens too. Any of the 2 clogged screen will also cause the P0011. Low oil pressure could cause it too. That means, change engine oil filter.

Thanks for the advice, but I'm way past that level.

Macmilla:

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

So, unfortunately, the evil p0011 came back today for no obvious reason after exactly 1 week of no codes. I'm beginning to think my village people are after me.
I tried to set the car on fire but I no get money for fuel as fuel don cost.

Macmilla:

So, unfortunately, the evil p0011 came back today for no obvious reason after exactly 1 week of no codes. I'm beginning to think my village people are after me.
I tried to set the car on fire but I no get money for fuel as fuel don cost.

I think at this point, the ECU should be looked at.

i fixed my rattle sound by changing tensioner

theadeola:




I think at this point, the ECU should be looked at.

So I forgot to update this page.
I didn't burn my car.
So I figured out how to test a VTC solenoid while buying one.
You unplug the connector from the one in your engine and plug it to the new one you want to buy. And have someone start the engine and rev it a couple of times. As the engine is reved, watch the plunger in the solenoid as it lifts and drop smoothly. The movement must be smooth and move with the revving. If it's not moving, moves with jerks, hangs at any point, etc, so not buy.
So after buy a certified functional one, no more p0011 code for months now.

Macmilla:

So I forgot to update this page.
I didn't burn my car.
So I figured out how to test a VTC solenoid while buying one.
You unplug the connector from the one in your engine and plug it to the new one you want to buy. And have someone start the engine and rev it a couple of times. As the engine is reved, watch the plunger in the solenoid as it lifts and drop smoothly. The movement must be smooth and move with the revving. If it's not moving, moves with jerks, hangs at any point, etc, so not buy.
So after buy a certified functional one, no more p0011 code for months now.

Good job restraining yourself from burning it

Oh, great. I've thought about this as the genesis of my own P0011 too. So I have to take the car to the seller then?

Pray tell, how much did you get yours?

theadeola:


Good job restraining yourself from burning it

Oh, great. I've thought about this as the genesis of my own P0011 too. So I have to take the car to the seller then?

Pray tell, how much did you get yours?

I actually got mine for next to nothing. I just went to a junkyard cos I didn't want to spend much money on it since I wasn't convinced it was the problem. I got and tested one as described. After confirming it still works, I cleaned it thoroughly and installed it and that was the end of p0011 for more than a mo th now. Car also doesn't seem like it consumes fuel cos I get roughly 400miles of city driving on one tank. Highway driving should be much higher.
I'll also like whoever has same engine (k24) to tell me what they get from o e tank.

Sirnioking:
I recently worked on my 4 cylinder engine that makes a 2 seconds rattling noise after starting each morning. After which the P0011 code came up and refused to go. I bought a tokunbo VTC solenoid sensor it did not work. A rewire suggested it was a faulty brainbox switch or something. He opened the box, replaced a tiny switch, after driving home the lights came back again. The check engine often comes along with VSC light off and a screeching tire sign. I am sincerely tired of this issue. Kindly suggests ways I can fix it, please. Thanks.

Replace the camshaft VTC sprocket and thank me late. You didn't mention the model but I believe its a 2008 model with the 4-cylinder in-line.

https://www.nairaland.com/8065335/maintenance-tips-toyota-cars

Macmilla:

I actually got mine for next to nothing. I just went to a junkyard cos I didn't want to spend much money on it since I wasn't convinced it was the problem. I got and tested one as described. After confirming it still works, I cleaned it thoroughly and installed it and that was the end of p0011 for more than a mo th now. Car also doesn't seem like it consumes fuel cos I get roughly 400miles on one tanks.
I'll also like whoever has same engine (k24) to tell me what they get from o e tank.

My fuel consumption is in the gutter. Barely 200miles on a tank. Radiator fans factory, thermostat intact, etc. only code is the p0011.

Don't know if it can cause such a massive drop in consumption. Did you notice a drop in your fuel consumption when you had the code?

And do you drive with AC constantly?

theadeola:


My fuel consumption is in the gutter. Barely 200miles on a tank. Radiator fans factory, thermostat intact, etc. only code is the p0011.

Don't know if it can cause such a massive drop in consumption. Did you notice a drop in your fuel consumption when you had the code?

And do you drive with AC constantly?

Well, not constantly. More like occasionally. Only when I can't manage without AC. Economy is not smiling o. Besides, I'm still monitoring and accessing the car to know if I made a good decision by selling my V6 accord to get a 4cyl. My next test will be to know how many miles I can get with regular AC use.

I drive a V6 2007 accord with really bad gas millage.
What do you suggest i work on.
There are no catalyst installed though.

Macmilla:

Well, not constantly. More like occasionally. Only when I can't manage without AC. Economy is not smiling o. Besides, I'm still monitoring and accessing the car to know if I made a good decision by selling my V6 accord to get a 4cyl. My next test will be to know how many miles I can get with regular AC use.

OmobaDe10th:
I drive a V6 2007 accord with really bad gas millage.
What do you suggest i work on.
There are no catalyst installed though.

Use the correct oil.
Work on anything that is obviously wrong.
Scan your car and work on any codes seen.
Service or change your injectors.
Check the condition of your plugs.
But the one that I hardly see any mechanic talk about is your timing chain (belt). Timing chain is NOT everlasting. It is a maintenance item, to be replaced after a couple of miles according to your car manufacturer. The only difference between timing chain and belt is that chain can not snap, but make no mistakes, TIMING CHAIN STRETCHES. It's even worse when you don't use the required oil and I know most of us don't. When it stretches, a lot goes wrong. Your valves will not close and open at the exact right time. You will lose a lot of power by this alone, which means fuel consumption. Your car also can no longer manipulate the VTEC and VTC perfectly. This is also more bad news for your engine power and fuel consumption. It can give you error codes like P0341 when it is very bad. Imagine you that have driven your car for 60,000m with 20w50 oil and you have never worked on your timing chain or belt.

Note that virtually no Nigerian mechanic will tell you about your timing chain as long as your car is moving, so you have to request for timing chain job by yourself. After doing a major work on my engine, the kazeem never mentioned anything about the timing chain. I eventually forced (yes, I had to insist) him to open the timing cover and obviously it was stretched as f**k.
A quick way to check for stretched timing is to look at your timing chain tensioner. If it is almost fully extended, you need a new timing chain fast.
Note, do not expect to see a whole 1foot stretch when you bring it out. To understand better, watch the video below.
https://youtube.com/shorts/9jqhS8payqw?si=HZ9LI6aLTCBZfNw7

Also there are currently no cats in the car.
But I want to replace the O2 sensors, is this a good move or I need to replace the cats first?

Macmilla:

Use the correct oil.
Work on anything that is obviously wrong.
Scan your car and work on any codes seen.
Service or change your injectors.
Check the condition of your plugs.
But the one that I hardly see any mechanic talk about is your timing chain (belt). Timing chain is NOT everlasting. It is a maintenance item, to be replaced after a couple of miles according to your car manufacturer. The only difference between timing chain and belt is that chain can not snap, but make no mistakes, TIMING CHAIN STRETCHES. It's even worse when you don't use the required oil and I know most of us don't. When it stretches, a lot goes wrong. Your valves will not close and open at the exact right time. You will lose a lot of power by this alone, which means fuel consumption. Your car also can no longer manipulate the VTEC and VTC perfectly. This is also more bad news for your engine power and fuel consumption. It can give you error codes like P0341 when it is very bad. Imagine you that have driven your car for 60,000m with 20w50 oil and you have never worked on your timing chain or belt.

Note that virtually no Nigerian mechanic will tell you about your timing chain as long as your car is moving, so you have to request for timing chain job by yourself. After doing a major work on my engine, the kazeem never mentioned anything about the timing chain. I eventually forced (yes, I had to insist) him to open the timing cover and obviously it was stretched as f**k.
A quick way to check for stretched timing is to look at your timing chain tensioner. If it is almost fully extended, you need a new timing chain fast.
Note, do not expect to see a whole 1foot stretch when you bring it out. To understand better, watch the video below.
https://youtube.com/shorts/9jqhS8payqw?si=HZ9LI6aLTCBZfNw7

OmobaDe10th:
Also there are currently no cats in the car.
But I want to replace the O2 sensors, is this a good move or I need to replace the cats first?

First I must point out that you only need cats if you want to save the planet . You don't need it if you just want your car to drive well and have good fuel economy. My car doesn't have cats and I don't care. I actually like it that way cos there's no restrictions to exhaust gases, so engine breathes well. Also no risk of cats getting clogged and racking my engine.
Having said that, first thing you need to do is make sure you do not have any codes for primary (upstream) O2 sensor (Air/fuel ratio sensor). If you do, please replace the sensor. This is the most important sensor if you want good fuel economy.
If you want cats, then go for it. It doesn't really matter if you put it before the secondary O2 sensor or after cos the care will show the code for anyone that is still not working well.
MOST IMPORTANT IS YOUR PRIMARY O2 SENSOR, known in Honda as Air/fuel ratio sensor.
If you don't care about cats, make sure your secondary O2 sensor is working. But it will always throw a code for catalyst efficiency below threshold. There are a few ways to make this code go away without causing confusion for your brain box.