@Siena: right on the money. Yhu kno yhur 504 well. Oddly enough, I preferred my dad's official PAN 504 GR with AC cold enough to crack lips. Looked more modern to me and I could control the radio unlike the 1977 GL that gave dad supreme authority over radio affairs. We used that car for school runs well.
The PAN 504 2000 GLS came in both S. Wagon and sedan, had those chunky bumpers, a peugeot inscribed spoiler at the rear(sedan), and in place of the small indicator/parking lights, those akin to the 505. They also came with fog lamps. The twin round headlamp frames were made black to complement the bumper. The wings had the badge "Best Line" giving it an all giving it an opulent feel and the windows were tinted a darker shade of brown. Full brown/black tint was optional and was mostly done aftermarket. There were slight modifications to the interior. 505 like front seats were standard as well as rear head restraints. The gear console was also modified to a more modern look. Never heard of or saw leather. Fabric (soft comfy velvet) came as standard. Options then included seat belts for rear passengers, electric(front only) windows, mounted stop lamp, hand racks (hope I got it right) amongst others. Shared similar engines wirh the 504 GL. Used widely by the FG as official vehicles for public officials and as pilot vehicles for convoys. Was marketed, sold and known as the "Best Line". What "tripped" me bout this ride was the unique sound when the AC was on. And the horn, Geez soft and sweet, almost seductive. No one makes horns like Peugeot (and maybe Benz). School run was lovely with this ride when dad was not to drop yhu off. The "effizy" was just too plenty in it.

@ Somatic,

Am not sure PAN 504 2000 GLS had the same engine of 504 GL (XN1). To the best of my knowledge, only 504 GL & TI had 1971 cc (2.0) fuel carburreted engine. Though, for some countries, their TIs had ZEJ, 1995 cc fuel injected engines. I believe the later PAN 504s had the same engines with the later PAN 505s which is XN1A (not sure though).

The fact remains that you cant compare 504 GL with other models of 504, aside TI. Other models of 504s didnt have independent rear differential/axle. The thickness of pan of 504 GL differed from other models of 504. Others body are lighter. The unique balance of GL when on high speed was lacking in other models. The existence of cambers at the rear of GLs which others lacked, the unique torque tube & propeller shaft of GL, the 4 wheel disc brakes of GL which other models lacked, the old model crankshaft with holes on the crankshaft to ensure full lubrication of crank journals which other models lacked, etc. I can go on & on. The truth is, have you ever wondered why all our fathers that had the GL prefered them driving them to other cars of theirs & wouldnt let go of them? They realised what an indestructible, impressive & powerful Lions they had. So, dont ever compare foreign assembled 504 GL with PAN 504, even the PAN 504 GL. The difference was so wide.

Ikenna.

Good morning bros, how are you doing, have you resumed?
Pls i need your help. My car is supposed to come with Daytime running light, it s standard on 99 V6 Camry LE.
I think it was disabled before imported. I want to fix it, can you help me out.
From what i read on line, Most camrys use the Headlight Relay for the DTRL. To disable it, you just cut a pin from that relay, and replace the relay with a new one to restore the DTRL. Do you have any other information that could be of help.
Thanks.

@Ikenna: I didn't mean to say the 504 2000 came with the same engine as the French made GL. Rather, its engine was similar to the PAN's GR and SR models. I was never much of a mechanic to dabble into engine sizes and capacities tho our drivers but emeka mechanic tesified to the power of dad's green car over the GR and best line.  My observation then stemmed from the most modern at the time and the fact that green car went to the mech than the others. Looking back now, I wish we still retained that 504. Its still running tho in bad shape. The other two, 1 auctioned off, dunno wherr the other is.

@Ikenna,

Please can you respond to my post on page 1 of this thread

pak:

Hi Ikenna,

How did you know the ECU was faulty ?

Does a Diagnostic tool bring that up ?

My car has been consuming fuel like crazy for a while and with this fuel price increase/scarcity its driving me nuts.

I did a scan while back though I cant remember the codes, the mech said nothing related to the fuel consumption came up.

I mean it presently does 224Km on 1/2 tank (33.5l) thats like 6.8km/l compared to your ride that did over 14km/l.


I just need an urgent solution else might consider selling


I use a honda accord '03 (EOD).

and where r u based bros ? (sounds as though you'r based in the north)

How did you know the ECU was faulty? Because of the symptom the car was having which made me to manually test the ECU and confirmed my fear. It wasnt only because of the overfueling, but other signs. Its a long story. So dont bother replacing your ECU because the car is running rich. A faulty sensor would make your car run rich, which most times are the cause. A vacuum leak would make your car very thirsty. An under inflated tire would do the same. Use of over-sized non-recommended factory sized tyre would make your car very thirsty.

ECU should be the last thing you look at when your car is running very rich. If any of the engine sensors is sending wrong signal to ECU, it would disrupt the proper working of the ECU which would make it sometimes to be guessing, thereby disrupting the normal quantity of fuel and air that should go into the combustion chambers via injectors and throttle body, mixing the air & fuel in intake manifold before entering the combustion chambers via intake valves.

What are the error codes you got when it was scanned (believing you have scanned the car)? Are all your oxygen sensors still attached to the 3 catalytic converters (am very sure that EOD V6 has 3 caty converters, while I4 EOD has only 1 Caty converter)? Is the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) plug still well plugged in the sensor? Whats the value of the cts when engine cold & hot? Though, if the cts is faulty, you would be experiencing hard starting when engine cold or hard starting when engine hot, together with overfueling.

Scanning the car wont tell you if the ECU is faulty, I believe /not sure. But you have to eliminate all the components that can make engines overfuel before you go towards ECU.

Ikenna.

ba_aliyah:

Good morning bros, how are you doing, have you resumed?
Pls i need your help. My car is supposed to come with Daytime running light, it s standard on 99 V6 Camry LE.
I think it was disabled before imported. I want to fix it, can you help me out.
From what i read on line, Most camrys use the Headlight Relay for the DTRL. To disable it, you just cut a pin from that relay, and replace the relay with a new one to restore the DTRL. Do you have any other information that could be of help.
Thanks.

Hi

Yes, I have resumed. What a break! A Failed state indeed!

To your problem. This is the more reason why you need to have the car's wiring diagram. The diagram would tell you how many wires would be connected to the relay, which wires should go to each relay pins. Every car wiring diagram differs from the other.

Anyway, if all the wires are there, it wont be that difficult to fix, as long as you have your test light or multimeter. I dont know how Japanese cars wiring system are, since their relays differ from Euro & American cars. What are the numbers printed on the relay? Are they 30, 85, 86 87a & 87 or 1,2,3,4,5? If that is what you have on your relay, below is how they can be be connected;

Pin 30: - LIVE wire (wire from positive Battery terminal head)
Pin 85: - ENERGISER (source wire from Headlight switch or anyother switch)
Pin 86: - GROUND wire
Pin 87a: - FEED wire (wire that feeds or triggers on the headlight or components the relay is meant to power)
Pin 87: - Same as above.

OR

Pin 1: - ENERGISER
Pin 2: - GROUND wire
Pin 3: - LIVE WIRE
Pin 4: - FEED wire
Pin 5: - Same as above.

NOw this is how to connect a relay to power whatever component you need relay to power. It can also be connected differently to serve the same purpose. But it all depends how the manufacturer of the car designed the wiring to function or power a particular component. The wiring diagram remains the only way to find out.

Ikenna.

Somatic:

@Ikenna: I didn't mean to say the 504 2000 came with the same engine as the French made GL. Rather, its engine was similar to the PAN's GR and SR models. I was never much of a mechanic to dabble into engine sizes and capacities tho our drivers but emeka mechanic tesified to the power of dad's green car over the GR and best line. My observation then stemmed from the most modern at the time and the fact that green car went to the mech than the others. Looking back now, I wish we still retained that 504. Its still running tho in bad shape. The other two, 1 auctioned off, dunno wherr the other is.

Yes, you are right. The engines of L, SR, & GR 504 are similar to engine of 504 GL, but not identical. 504 L, SR & GR engines are 1.8cc with smaller size piston & sleeves, hence, the single barrell carburretor. The engine in 504 GL is 2.0cc with larger/bigger sized piston & sleeves, hence, the double barrel carburretor.

Ikenna.

Hey Ikenna,

Thanks for the timely response.

Your opinions are deep . Are you a mechanical or an automobile engr (Like Sienna) ? seems so really.



I have scanned the car and can't remember the error codes that came up cos it was a while back
( . . and fuel price was still not that steep yet). but The mech said all the codes that came up had
nothing to do with fuel consumption, though you never can really trust these guys anyway.
However, the check engine light is actually still on.

I will try and do another scan over the weekend and let you know the reported codes.


As regards other issues

Over sized tyres - Yeah, the problem actually started when service personnel ( at Pirelli service centre for that matter ) reccomended overized tyres for me and also did some wheel balancing and alignment.
Sienna on NL (God bless him) advised against it,
I have since changed back to the original reccomended size but still the crazy consumption continues.


Vaacuum leak
Faulty Sensor
Engine sensor
Oxygen Sensors
Catalytic Converters (sounds like chemistry to me)

Really I don't have much technical knowledge about these parts



but as regards The Coolant Temperature Sensor, I guess its the same as the Temperature guage.

Seems to be working fine to me, at the base when engine is cold and close to the middle when

engine is hot.

Hello Siena! please do u have an idea of how much it will cost to convert an (Audi A4, 2000 model and Honda accord 2002 model).

@ Pak,

Am not an auto engr or mechanic. Am just a car owner like you. I gained the knowledge i have in autos by fixing my car myself (DIY), through the guildance of Siena and others, and most importantly: INTEREST.

Is your EOD V6? If its V6, each of the 2 exhaust manifolds has catalytic converter attached on them. Exhaust manifold is that big cast pipe on the cylinder head that the exhaust pipe that goes under the car to the car tail, is attached to. The catalytic converter, then, is that thing that looks like small mufler or exhaust pot on the exhaust pipe in the engine bay, very close to the exhaust manifold (if the car is V6). If your EOD is Inline 4, then it will have only one catalytic converter under, at the middle of the car (that looks like exhaust pot/muffler too). Likewise the EOD V6 has caty converter under the car too, making them 3. Each caty converter has o2 sensor (oxygen sensor) attached to them.

Coolant Temperature sensor (CTS) is different from Temperature guage sender that controls Temperature guage on Instrument cluster (aka speed clock or dashboard by Nigerians). CTS has two wires, while most temp sender I know of have only one wire. In some cars, the cts also controls the electric radiator cooling fan(s). So, yes, when the temp guage on the instrument cluster is close to middle or at the middle of the guage, thats the normal engine operating temperature. Thats is when the electric radiator cooling fan should come on, when it tries to go beyond the middle of the temp guage, and the fans would shut off again when the needle falls back to the middle of the temp guage.


Yes, I would advice you to re-scan the car and post the error code(s). Thank God we have Siena here who is better knowledged in interpreting error codes and with better solutions on how to tackle issues.

If I may ask, you said the car is peppering the eye. Is it only when you are inside the car that it peppers your eyes? Does it also peppers the eyes when you are outside the car, while the engine is idling? If it peppers the eyes both when you are inside & outside the car, then we are in the right course of diagnosis. But if its only when you are inside the car, then you have exhaust leakage.


Ikenna.

Guys, I saw peugeot 508 an hour ago, packed very close to my office. I didnt know it has entered Nigerian market. The car makes sence!

Ikenna.

Pity this thread kinda stopped 2yrs ago.
In recounting the good ol' days of 504's, I always wondered why it came from the factory with only 1 side mirror, drivers side.

And we had. 1 504 pickup; 2 504's GL and SR; 2 505's Evolution and ST; and. Benz 200 'Straight Engine'.

Those cars never died, worst case is popsie asking me to jump inside and 'jump start' it. Off we go...