bigbrovar:


My response this base been posted below in my signature

Dam5reey:


It can, simply​ add another panel..

I mean you should buy another 150AH battery if your panel charges it effectively..

Dam5reey:


From experience panel array only produce 3 to 4 times it's capacity..

So your 250W will provide about 800Wh.. thats about 60AH of charge.. if you upgrade by 50AH how do you charge it?

If your 150AH is serving well with the panel.. then stick with it.. since 30A PWM cannot accept a perfect additional​ panel..

mcTrinity:


you didn't state your load...

concerning battery brand, you can go for Ritar/sukam/safepower

noeloge82:


Assuming they buy dressed weight at 800 as u said and u have 2.5kg on a 52days old bird that is 2.5*800=2000

Are u telling me that is a loss at 52days let's be practical this is a good deal multiple by quantity except we don't want to be real with our doc cost and feeding

noeloge82:

So u see
If the bird weighs 2.5kg multiple by 1400 am glad u confirmed this price so anyone interested in making it big Pls go out and do ur marketing in broiler their is always market

Yinkame123:
How much is it going for?

bigrovar:

Brother
Based on your comment. Here is what I think.
Your battery seems to have reached . EOL ( end of life).
It would be hard to say for sure because you supplied very little details on the type of battery it is. (Networking battery is not a type of battery) might want to supply he picture of the batt to help house Jedi Masters. Can it be revived. Maybe but don't put your hopes on it.
How long have u been using he batteries? How would you describe your regular usage patterns.. like how many hours does it run and how much load do u put on it during the run time.
My preliminary guess is that the batteries died due to being under charged and over discharged. I use the sukam falcon plus. And as much as I love that inverter. I have noticed that it is often times unable to fully charge a battery. In my case.. my charge controller continues to charge my battery even when my inverter has stopped charging. The reason for this is probably because the charging algorithms on the sukam is set on a very conservative side to prevent over charging.
Secondly you probably use this batteries till the inverter start singing low voltage. Nothing kills a deep cycle battery faster. They aren't meant to be 100% discharged. It shorting their life faster than ebola in a human body.
What can be done. Get a new battery but before u do. Have a hand on your consumption pattern. A well designed consumption pattern should be built around using 50% of your battery capacity and ensuring it is replaced fully before you use them again.. which leads us to power generarion.
Bros. That 50w panel is no where near what you need to charge your batteries. You would need at least 300w panels and preferably an mppt charge controller rated at 20ahs
Let's do some maths. So u have 300w panels.. let us take out the usual 77% loses to heat and charge controller efficiencies. 300*0.77 = 231.
So your 300w panel should give u around 230w daily divide that by your battery voltage 230 ÷ 12 =19.2
That's the average you would get from the panels with an mppt controller.
5 hours of sun is more than enough to charge your batteries to full from a 50% depth of discharge. You might want to get a 200ah battery in future. Luminous agm are some of the best in the market.
There hope that answers some questions. There are still so many things you need know. You might want to Google more and read back at the older discussions. Lots of value tressures back there.
My self too am a learner so you can always Google to see if what I say makes sense.

DMerciful:
There are many factors that can affect this setup.
1. A 50w panel can produce 4A when its at its peak power. 4A will take 150/4 =25hrs to fully charge. Now consider you have about 7 hrs of sunlight and due to the variable angle of sunlight you get maximum of 60% averagely from the panel which is 2.4A. With this fact, it will take about 2.4Ax7hrs/day x 9days =150AH of steady sunlight charging for d battery to full.
2. It also depends on how you position the panel to get max sunlight.
3. You need a charge controller to regulate the charging and also give you visibility of what's going on,
In summary, you need to change your battery and get about 200w*2 solar panel and an mppt charge controller to effectively charge ur battery as even a new battery degrades within a short time if consistently undercharge. Since where you stay now has poor mains supply, u need effective solar charging.....cutting corners will be a waste of money.

temizeee:
@BasedOnB abeg stop flooding the thread with yr issue, u need to get a better wattage solar panel.... 50watt sp is just peanut for inverter setup... Maybe you should try and start reading the thread from page one......a 50watt sp won't be 100% efficient self... U need to upgrade.

bigrovar:


Hard to get OEM charge profile for this battery all my searches resulted to null. Down side of buying little known (on a global scale ) product. Anyways I did get some information of off sukam tubular battery via their technical support in India ( told them I use their tubular batter... I lied)

Anyway my charging profile - based on what I gathered from other Indian made tubular battery like Sukam, luminous and exide - are as follows

Boost 14.4v to 14.6v. Tubular batteries according to most docs I read are said to be fully charged at 14.4v but the fact that some charge controllers are unable to accurately sense battery voltage .. Might be safer to set your controller to 14.6v for boost.

Float is 13.5v

Equalization is 15.5v

Hope this was of help

DMerciful:
If you choose to monitor it urself and have d time fine...but if left unmonitored and there power supply for a long time the battery can swell due to overcharging and the risk of explosion for sealed batteries is there.

BasedOnB:
Hello everyone. I'd appreciate some help here please.
I have a basic inverter set up which i've been using for a couple of years without hassles. My inverter is a falcon series 800va 12v sukam inverter, and my current battery is a 150 Ah 12v monilite ('Networking') battery. The battery doesn't last for long anymore but i still get 3-4 hrs on the average from it with my led tv/decoder combo after a full charge (PHCN).
I recently moved to an area with non-existent PHCN supply, and so i decided to incorporate a solar panel into the set up to charge the battery. I got a 50W 12V panel and connected it to the battery. The problem is the battery doesn't last long @ all. I didn't use the battery for about 5 days in the hope of getting a full charge. After 5 days, the battery didn't last for 2 hrs after loading my led tv (45W).
Right now, it doesn't even last enough for me to charge my phone. It is that bad. Please what could be wrong?
The guy that sold the panel to me said i need to get a solar charge controller to charge the battery, but i seriously doubt if it will have any effect whatsoever. I feel the battery isn't just getting enough energy from the 50W solar panel. Is the solar panel too small for the battery? The inverter isn't a solar inverter, but i've been using it since 2012 without issues.
I would appreciate your responses please.

chris81964:

There are so many variables. So lets eliminate them and then we can get to your problem.
1. How many amp hours are your batteries?
2. What is the size of the controller connected to your 200 watt panels?
200/12 =16 amps. It has to be at least that size. If you have a 100 amp hour battery it will take 6.25 hours of direct sunshine to charge them at the full 200 watts. You know that will never happen because we average less that 4.5 hours a day at this time of the year. And after losses you will never see 200 watts.
3. What is the load total for all the devices you connect to your batteries?
Look at your batteries and there are two numbers that represent you bulk and float voltage (cycle and standby use). 13.1 during the charge cycle is below that number. Your batteries need to see 14.4+ V daily during the charge cycle. Some need to see close to 15V. Read what it says on the side of the battery. You don't get to those numbers your batteries are not fully charged and would eventually fail because of sulfation.
There is nothing wrong when the battery drops from 13.1 to 12.5 when you take the generator or charge source off.
Learn about your batteries and you will get results.
Good luck.
They call me Dr. Solar. Visit my YouTube channel and watch myths about solar
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaeqSGWbXO1e5X-1ev7hMORUIWJ7LHgIE

charlesucheh:
Total transformation!!! It is only money and power that will make a young and fairly pretty lady like her to marry an old traditional ruler.....

charlesucheh:
Total transformation!!! It is only money and power that will make a young and fairly pretty lady like her to marry an old traditional ruler.....

beautyfunke:
nairabet is better than bet9ja in everything

Frank0001:
.

BasedOnB:


Home Win to Nil YES implies that the home side will win the match without conceding a goal (the home side wont score @ all). If the tip is Home Win to Nil NO, then you are saying the away team will score even if they lose the game, or they may not even lose the game @ all (they may win or draw).

For example Arsenal (Home) vs Chelsea (Away), Tip is Home Win to Nil NO.
Scoreline is 1-0, bet is lost.
Scoreline is 1-1, bet is won.
Scoreline is 1-2, bet is won.
Scoreline is 0-0, bet is won.

In summary, anything other than an outright win by the home team, the bet is won. The same thing applies for the Away team Win to Nil NO market. Hope it helps.