Bimbam's Posts
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Welcome back, larosa!!! Happy New Year... Pls reactivate the board. We have missed you...and your lessons larosa1: |
Interested... |
Bellarita:Very clear! Thanks for sharing... |
elsy5:What's the use of setting up a NL page with the intent to teach and then move the instructions to another platform? If the aim is to "fish" for students, then state that when setting up the NL page. Not everyone is comfortable with posting their personal phone number on a public forum (for spammers and scammers to get a hold of). Pictures of the finished products can be kept on the other forum if you are not willing to post the instructions as well. Kudos for being willing to disseminate knowledge though! |
njel:Please share... |
Dear larosa So sorry about the fire incident...May the Lord give you beauty for the ashes...as the Yoruba adage says , "the burnt palace will be rebuilt with even more beauty and splendour" Take heart, dear...we give thanks that there was no loss of life...things can and will be replaced, iJMN! Welcome back... |
moonberry:That depends on how wide you want the base of te skirt to be. If your skirt pieces are already cut with a flare at the bottom, the godet will add even more width at the bottom. |
iclass:Having the band underbust would not have been flattering on your nice figure. But if you really wanted it underbust, you would measure from shoulder, over the bust apex, to right under the bust. This would make the top into an Empire style. You did a terrific job on the entire outfit...great work! How many pieces is the skirt? It fits beautifully on you. |
moonberry:To insert a godet (which is what the triangle piece is called), you sew it to the skirt pieces before you sew the skirt. Take one skirt piece (SP), and at the hem line, pin one side of the godet to one side of the SP (right sides together). Now, with the godet facing up, sew a seam from the hemline all the way to the end of the godet and make two or three stitches extra on to the SP. Next, take the next SP of your 6 piece skirt and pin one side of it to the other side of the godet you just attached (right sides together). With godet side facing up, put your machine's needle as close to the stitching on the other side of the godet as possible. Make sure that fabric from the other side of the godet is not under your work. Sew your seam towards the hemline. Once done, pin the two SPs together and then stitch a seam that is starts exactly at the tip of the triangle or the godet. If this is not clear, you can google "insert a godet". HTH |
onose01:Remove the ".rem" after the file name, and upload again. |
WOW! Someone has been very busy. Great work, AraKulture.... |
Well done, Arakulture! More grease to your elbow...Can we see some of your new collection? Thx |
TDlook:Very clear and concise explanation. Kudos, TDloos! |
Wow! Your students are really doing a great job... their work is neat and professional looking... |
Thanks! |
@larosa Are your contact details still current and working? I would like to "talk" to you offline. Thanks! |
larosa:Good job, Esther! |
juicypetal:@juicymetal: I think the reason you were having problems with the sleeve not fitting the armhole is because drawing a "curve" in pix 3 will mean your sleeve will not be long enough. You need to make the curve into an "S" shape which will add more length to the cap. Take your tape measure, placing it on the edge (not flat, as when measuring) and measure your curve as you've shown it. Then take the tape measure the same way, and measure the armhole all the way around. You will find that these two measurement might not be the same. If you try and put an "s" shape to your sleeve head/cap and do the measuring on tape edge again, it might be closer to the measurement you got for your armhole... |
juicypetal:@juicypetal: If you mean the fitted blouse that is worn with a wrapper, then, yes, it should work. If on the other hand you mean the regular buba, then that is a different thing/method entirely... |
If you trace the first "S" line close to the outline of the armhole, you will or should get a good fit. Drawing an "S" like no. 3 in the picture below will give you gathers at the shoulder. I know this is not the way the professionals do it, so @larosa, please give us the correct way...
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Once the sleeve is traced/drawn on the paper, I now take that drawing (after cutting it out) and place it "on fold" on the actual fabric. Once the sleeve is cut out in fabric, you can pin its side seam. Then "dry fit" it by pinning into the armhole of the garment armhole. You might need to increase/decrease seams (either on the blouse or the sleeve in case it does not fit)...
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I then draw a vertical line starting from the shoulder seam of the blouse, which is equal to the sleeve length measurement (with 1" allowance added for top and bottom seams), and also draw another vertical line opposite that, making sure the distance of both vertical lines equals the arm width plus 1" seam allowance. The horizontal line at the bottom that connects both vertical lines will be the bottom of the sleeve (which is either the arm, elbow or wrist measurement) depending on how long the sleeve will be. Again, make sure to add a 1" seam allowance.
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juicypetal:No stress... we are all here to learn. Maybe next time, you might be the one to help someone else out with an issue they might be having... ![]() |
Since the front and back edge of the armhole are even with each other from the previous step, I now trace the outline on the paper which is the red line in the picture below. Basically, you are drawing an "S" which forms the curve of the sleeve cap... You will want to extend the line slightly down the side of the blouse to allow for the fact that you will need to sew a seam to take the sleeve from being a flat shape to a tube shape.
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Then I fold the garment (in this case a blouse) so that the back and front armhole on one side (left or right, doesn't matter) are even, i.e, the edges are together. I carefully lay the blouse on paper that is bigger than I actually need.
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larosa:Just finished making a garment with sleeves, so I tried to draw it instead. First picture is the finished garment after it has been sewn, but missing the sleeves.
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@juicymetal: Pls follow whatever larosa recommends, but what I usually do is cut the sleeve last after the shoulder and side seams have been joined (whether blouse or dress), use the armhole to "trace" the sleeve head making sure to add my seam allowance to this "tracing", then draw the rest of the sleeve using the arm width and sleeve length measurement to complete the sleeve. You can try cutting out in paper first to see if it will fit, and then cut out in fabric. Also when sewing onto the garment, pins are your best friend! Pin first to make sure it will fit, if not you can make adjustments before sewing. HTH, but I want to see how larosa's comments though... |
Beautiful work, larosa! Thanks for sharing... |
larosa:@larosa: so each of the panel gets 7.5" at the hem (ie 3.5" on each side of the panel) OR how is 7.5" added to the panels? The first option would make for a very, very full hemline, a short or petite person can be overwhelmed by that much volume at the hemline, no? Thanks for sharing your knowledge...much appreciated! |
Wow! Welcome back, @larosa... you've really made up for the long silence! ![]() |
Congratulations, Onose! God bless you, your husband and the new addition to your family... |
Congratulations, Onose! God bless you, your husband and the new addition to your family... |
