₦airaland Forum

@iclass: good job... love the fabric colors!

@Thebeadslady:

Lol...You are supposed to dissolve the sugar in water after you have finished wrapping the wire.

Good job! Following closely...Thank you!

Following....well done @larosa!

larosa:
8. Bust line = nape to waist divided by minus 1".

@larosa: is there a "2" missing in this sentence? Thx!

Here is another peplum blouse that I just made for a friend, she wanted a regular bodice with princess seams from the armhole...

My blouse project. I had already cut the blouse, before the blouse tutorial from kemestry was posted because I wanted to wear the outfit....

@iclass:

I would use some more paper to cut out the side panels, just to get the steps down in my head. Then when all pieces are cut in paper, use them to cut out the fabric. The next time around, you will be confident enough to cut straight from the fabric.

If your blouse is going to be long enough to cover your hips, then you will use your hip measurement when deciding how wide center+side should be. If the blouse won't cover or reach your hips, I would just add 2" to your waist measurement to calculate the center+side measurement to get how wide the bottom of the blouse should be. This should work unless you have a really small waist and really wide hips.

You can cut both pieces at the same time, but they have to be separate pieces, since the seam joining them together also adds to the "bust cup" effect...

Our instructors can shed more light on your questions.

This chatroom is moving slowly, o! We are still on pg 9 after all this time...lecturers, please don't forget about us...God bless you for all you do.

Hello @arakulture! What happened to your BB Channel?

Well done @larosa!

Good job! Closely following...

Well done to @kemesty on the blouse tutorial

I think the problem (at least for me) is that the style for the blouse was changed half way through the lesson...people bought fabric based on one style, probably started cutting the style, Christmas busy period came, and then the style was changed...so, it might be hard to know which style to continue with.

A suggestion to our hardworking teachers (who we appreciate very much) is to upload the entire lesson in full, even if it is hand-drawn on a piece of paper...we realize you run successful businesses off-line, and that should always come first since it is your livelihood. If the lesson is uploaded in full, some people will understand and complete the project. Those who do not understand, can ask questions that anyone can answer. If the answer comes from someone who has already completed the question, then the lecturer can tell that the lesson was effective and the students can also learn from/interact with each other. The best way to tell if one knows something/subject is the ability to teach someone else the same thing/subject.

Looking forward to what 2015 brings....

kemesty:
Hello
Thanks @ Bimbam. We are all in it together. Like she rightly said, what i last explained is the center panel of the bosom cut. There are additional two panels which lie at the other sides ( left and right) of the center panel.
For the side panels, take the cut out center panel and place on your folded fabric and cut through such that when you sew them together, you will have your perfect bust cut.
Then you can pin pieces together so you can now measure out your bust ( ÷4) , underbust and waist ( all divided by 4) , add 1.5" sewing allowance.
Use your front panel to cut out the back panel of the blouse , do not forget to include your zip allowance (1".
To temporarily cut your arm hole, i say this cos you would still trim your arm hole later, maesure out your shoulder, like mine is 16", divide by 2, that is 8, plus 0.5" allowance cut out your arm hole.
My neck depth is 6 while my neck width is 8, i will divide my neck width by 2, that is 4 since my fabric is on fold, then make my circular neck design.
If you desire a square, or sweetheart shape, then cut accordingly.

Thanks, Kemesty, for your instructions even though you are very busy. Pls can you show pics for the steps outlined above?

Kemmy06:
Pls don't understand how u get this measurement Upper bust 8 -39
Bust line. 11-42
Under bust.15 -37
Thanks.

Upper Bust: from her shoulder, measure 8" down, at that point, take the measurement around the body which will be 39

Bust: again from the shoulder, measure 11" down, at that exact point, measure around the body and you get 42

Under Bust: from the shoulder, measure 15" down, at that point, measurement will be 37" around the body

Those 3 numbers will be transferred to the fabric (how far down and how wide)...


HTH

These are her own measurements,... your own results will be different.

debbydominic:
please i dont understand this' fold your fabric into 4 1/2 such that when you open , you will have a total of 9".How do i achieve the 4.5 on fabric

@debbydominic:

To better understand, take your tape measure, place the metal/plastic tip by the "zero" or "0" mark and place it on the "9" mark. The result is that there will be a fold at the "4.5" mark. The same thing is to be done to your fabric. Fold one side over the other, and make sure the resulting width measures 4.5".

This placement is used to cut out a pattern piece so that both sides of the piece are even and equal.

HTH

iclass:
Well done Kemesty, Picture quality is ok. you used 4" for the underbust line, please what did you use for the waist/ half lenght. thanks a lot

@iclass:

I think she might have used either 4" or made the curve come back out to 4.5" (if the client has a belly). The most the waist can be is 4.5" (because that's what her initial fabric on fold was). Right now, she is only showing the centre "panel" of the blouse. There are 2 side panels that will complete the remainder of the blouse front

HTH

@kemesty:

Picture quality is good....please continue....thank you!

Does this blouse style have padding in the bust area?

jazmeen:
Pls how can I get this type of fabric and at how much @ bimbam

I believe @arakulture also sells fabrics, maybe she can assist...this fabric was a gift

My fabric selection

I agree on the yellow top...

The one suggested by iclass has a lot going on, would not fit/flatter all body types and might scare away beginners

I vote for something which is slightly off-shoulder with princess seam and a flared peplum at the waist line.

@ccaramel:

Pro, ke? . I am a hobbyist hoping to learn from the pros, which is why I need to connect with arakulture IRL...I know enough to get by but not a whole lot, so I am looking to get more skills...

Also, with the layout, pls check the pattern on the fabric first, o! If it is plain fabric (except velvet or corduroy) go ahead and use the layout. But if the fabric has a one direction pattern, be careful with the layout, or else people will be asking "who is the carpenter who made this skirt"?

Glad to be of assistance...

The way I was taught, I was told the front middle panel is slightly narrower than the two other front panels so that the two front seams look like they are running down the centre of the thighs...

@arakulture: what is your contact detail please?

ccaramel:
Confused much!
Why are we deducting 2 inches from the hip measurement?

The 2 inches is to give the skirt a nice shape and also to emphasize the flare at the bottom.

HTH

ccaramel:
Confused much!
Why are we deducting 2 inches from the hip measurement?
Shouldn't the result be divided into 2 since we are folding the paper? I.e waist/6 + 0.5 then divide by 2 since we are cutting on fold? Someone explain pls. Technically pattern should be divided by 12 if cut on fold. Or else you will get double waist/hip measurement.

@ccaramel: the way I do it is a 2 step process. Do the math as @arakulture instructed to get the hip measurement for the first panel. Then on fold, use that number ÷ 2 (since as you rightly pointed out the fabric is already on fold). Depending on the person's figure, you can get away with using the hip measurement as the waist measurement (to get rid of excess at the waist for a smaller figure, the sewn seam at the waist will be wider and then get narrower as you sew towards the hem of the skirt). Basically you would be sewing "darts" into the seams at the top. But that is IF you use hip meas.for waist meas., o!

Once that 1st panel is cut (remember it was cut on fold!), open it out and lay it flat on the rest of the fabric to cut 4 more panels. To save fabric, switch the directions (as mentioned earlier), if the fabric allows for it. Your total number of panels is now 5. For the 6th and final panel, fold up panel number 1 again (like it was just after you cut it out), then place it on the rest of your fabric (2 layers), but this time leave a 2" allowance on the non-flare edge (this is for adding a zipper in the back).

@noncy21: nice pattern, but a suggestion - where the flare begins, try and make it a smoother curve...this will make it easier for you sew and the bottom of your skirt will flow much better. .

iclass:
well done arakulture! could you pleasde post a pix of how to place the pattern clockwise to manage fabric?

Attached is an image of what @arakulture means about placing the pattern. Pls note that after cutting out the 1st panel, she wants you to get another fold before placing the pattern the opposite way.

When trying to layout the pattern to "manage fabric" pls pay attention to the design on the fabric. With some fabric design, you cannot flip the pattern (pattern: top to bottom) otherwise some panels will be in one direction and other panels will be in the opposite direction. For example making a velvet six piece skirt (even a plain velvet) the pattern cannot be flipped (has to be pattern: top to top) because when you run your hand over velvet fabric, the "color" or "sheen" changes.

HTH

icebebe:
pls wen u say circumference do u mean frm d kneel downward(flare)?

Circumference here refers to the hemline (the bottom of the skirt near the floor). Each panel's hem width will be 24, making for a very, very full flare below the knees.

HTH

SerenaT: Nice job maam but pls I wana know if the one you just thought is the same as this design?cos I made this a long time ago

I can't really tell from looking at the picture on my phone...it might be the same stitch...maybe using small beads for the core and much bigger beads on the outside will give the same look as your necklace...

HTH

Rhukie: in addition to madam bimbam's spiral rope, you can use a size 6 crystal bead has you CB instead of 3seed beads you can also make the spiral appear like a bump against the core by increase the number for CB ie instead of 3seed beads you will used 4 or five seed beads. I will post pictures of both soon

@Rhukie: You are correct...Remember I stated "Once you have mastered the technique, you can use different sizes for the core and outside." One can also use bugle (pipe) beads in the outside beads...You are only limited by your own imagination. One can also use drops or magamata beads as part of the outside...

tunbebes: Tanx a b unch bimbam. Its soo clear. While I was making mine. I got d 1st two steps but I noticed I made a mistake later. Pls, will I pass my thread into d last three CA and then into d single CA on d new one(three CB and 1 CA). Tanx.

You always need to pass your thread into the newly added CA bead (this is what make the length grow). Basically, your needle goes through 4 CA and 3 CB. You always subtract one CA from the side where your needle enters for the new addition.

I hope this diagram helps. The lighter shade colors represent the last stitch made, while the bold shade colors represents the current stitch being made...

HTH

Here is a 3-strand spiral rope necklace that I made a long time ago. The core and outside bead colors have been reversed. This stitch works up very fast...

Please let me know if there are any questions.