₦airaland Forum

kingreign:
IAC might had been blocked or misaligned. If your throttle body was cleaned properly, ask our mechanic to align the IAC sensor and idle adjusment screw and the TPS till you get a reading of between 700-850 rpm steady at idle.

Thank you @kingreign.
The overheating was as a result of malfunctioning fan relay. Changed that and fan is fine. Though the high rpm has not been solved yet. Car idles at 1000rpm after your procedure but sometimes I still feel a gentle rise in rpm when am braking... changed plugs and serviced the nozzle, changed the throttle body and CTS. No luck.

kingreign:
Your IAT reads a rather higher value than normal.

Replace CTS, and IAT.

Footnote: hope your ECU is still factory follow come ECU and your car isn't flooded sha.

Car isn’t flooded. The throttle body was cleaned of carbon with fuel. After then I started noticing these rise in temperature and erratic rpm. It idles at 1200 rpm.

Just curious. What if the ECU is not factory fitted but a replacement?

kingreign:
What was the temp value gotten from the CTS?

CTS- 82 degrees Celsius.
Intake air temperature - 59 degrees Celsius

kingreign:
Run a scan to check the CTS working, also run a coolant leak down test.

Thanks. The sensors seems fine after a scan. Maybe a clogged radiator. I could see dirts in the radiator today and car overheated. Will diagnose further and revert.

Beke2020:
Hello house,
I use a Honda 2005 model.
For two months now my car started surging. I took it to my mechanic and he scanned it and changed something but the surging persist. I went back and he said it was the gearbox. I contacted another mechanic, that one worked on it but no change.i took it to a third mechanic. He said I should change the fuel pump. But still no improvement. Rather, in the process my kickstarter got bad and top gasket. Had to replace both. Met with a fourth mechanic now just last week. He changed the two gear censor N12k each and the fuel pump again, but the surging continues, the following day as I pick My car from him my alternator got bad. Truly I dont know what to do. A new mechanic just change the alternator. But I observed the D for drive on the dashboard is beeping, though surging still persist.

Pls what should I do? Do I change the gearbox? Almost all the mechanic said my gearbox is okay.

I need your advise

I have had this issue before. I scanned the car and changed my ECU for 25k or so. Most mechanics said I should replace the gearbox but that was far from it. ECU was not sending the right signal. Just scan my brother and share the code with the gurus here before you loose weight with car issues.

I have an issue with my 2008 Accord. Car doesn’t start when hot. That is when I drive around for while, stop and try to start again. It doesn’t start. I’d have to wait for engine to cool before it starts. Temp gauge is at the middle. I have service the kick starter. Same issue.

fans are working and coolant is at normal level in radiator but when I use my hand to cover the radiator, I don’t feel any pressure or vapor or even water circulation. What could be the issue?.

emmadejust:
Confirmed email sent ...

Not received yet.

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I have a 2014 Yaris manual transmission, Nigerian used for swap with a Nigerian used 2014/2015 Yaris auto or 2014/2015 corolla. Please let me know if you have these cars available for sale and interested in a swap deal. Thank you.

Location: Abuja

Flyingman:
Hello fellow Honda users, can someone help affirm if this is a problem. The fluid in PS reservoir tank spins round like a tornado (no foaming). What could cause so much pressure in the tank?. Steering turns well still. I see for some cars, it’s idle with less pressure on YouTube.

See as everyone just shun me for this forum. I know we are all busy in this country sha. All man for himself. I might be asking a novice question. I feel that’s why we are here tho, to be enlightened by the professionals. Well oyibo honda forums are helping me troubleshoot the issue.

Flyingman:
I have an issue with my power steering system. It keeps vomiting fluid and this reduces the level making the pump come up with the whining noise. In seeking for a quick cheap fix. I had the hose connecting to the rack replaced and yet the situation hasn’t changed. When it’s observed with engine on. The fluid swirl round with no foaming. When the wheel is turned, it goes up a bit with no vomiting but when driven. A noticeable amount of fluid is observed all over the reservoir.

Do I have a bad power steering pump? The pump has been worked on before but works perfectly when the fluid level is at max. It’s a 2008 4cyl accord. Also, is it normal for the steering fluid to spin heavily in the reservoir?

Hello fellow Honda users, can someone help affirm if this is a problem. The fluid in PS reservoir tank spins round like a tornado (no foaming). What could cause so much pressure in the tank?. Steering turns well still. I see for some cars, it’s idle with less pressure on YouTube.

I have an issue with my power steering system. It keeps vomiting fluid and this reduces the level making the pump come up with the whining noise. In seeking for a quick cheap fix. I had the hose connecting to the rack replaced and yet the situation hasn’t changed. When it’s observed with engine on. The fluid swirl round with no foaming. When the wheel is turned, it goes up a bit with no vomiting but when driven. A noticeable amount of fluid is observed all over the reservoir.

Do I have a bad power steering pump? The pump has been worked on before but works perfectly when the fluid level is at max. It’s a 2008 4cyl accord. Also, is it normal for the steering fluid to spin heavily in the reservoir?

davodyguy:
Does it pump well?

Yes it does, it only makes noise when the fluid level is low. No sign of leakage in the rack or pump. Just on the reservoir cover and below. The steering turns perfectly. It’s just the rapid spinning and spilling of fluid that’s a concern to me.

Just giving my car(2008 Accord) a checkover yesterday after having a feeling of steering fluid shortage. I noticed that the power steering fluid in the reservoir was spinning heavily and some signs of serious shortage and spilled fluid from the top of the reservoir. No sign of leakage in the pump or rack, just at the base of the reservoir. Is this normal?

What could cause my car to stall(go off) sometimes when I turn on the AC at hot periods. It drives well without AC and most times cools and drives well with AC. But when I slow down or start with AC on, car goes off. My first suspicion is that the compressor is connected directly with an external relay. Not the one in the fuse box. How do I normalize this connection? My research says the ECU is not regulating the engine when the AC is on. Car is Honda Accord Coupe 2009.

Happy Sunday guys, I just discovered the blinking 'D' light has returned. My electrician disconnected the c201 to work on my AC compressor clutch issues. While doing that they was a spark from the open c201 connector and 'D' started blinking. Checked and they was no voltage to the VSA modulator. Had to check the fuse and this is what I found. Can this be fixed or I'll have to get another one? How much is it?

AutoElectNG:
Happy to help.

Sure do deserve a beer!

What do you think?

You deserve a crate man lol

GAZZUZZ:
a rodent ate somthing

I was thinking towards this direction after several attempts to let him know it's his fault. Thank God it's okay now. Appreciate sir.

AutoElectNG:
U = Network Code (wiring Bus)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
1 = Fuel and Air Metering
22 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:

(SAE definition): Lost Communication With Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC) Module
Honda Definition: F-CAN malfunction - ECM/PCM to VSA modulator control unit)

In summary:
Wiring Fault

To fix requires access to vehicle wiring diagram, get a mechanic who is comfortable with electrical/electronic issues and troubleshooting that follows manufacturer guidelines for a fit and proper fix

Tip: Quick-Fix since you said the vehicle just came back from the spray shop


They might have:

1. damaged the 2 pin connector shown in the picture above
OR
2. failed to reconnect firmly after completing the work you gave them.

Untrained mechanics/auto service professionals do not realize just how important it is to pay attention to wires and connectors (electrical and electronics)

Was this vehicle involved in an accident?


If that don't work, then you will have to pay for more heavy duty troubleshooting!

Oh God, are people this dumb? Do you believe I spent my whole Saturday with the mumu electrician troubleshooting this issue. Just popped up my hood and went straight to this location. Found out the wiring harness from the right side of the engine compartment wasn't connected to the left that's leading to the ECU/PCM. Connected the long 2 pin connector(C201) and the blinking is gone. Thanks so much. I truly appreciate.

My people, how una dey? Abeg I need some advice from the gurus. I took my car (2008 accord coupe) for a spray job with no issues. Only to get it back with a difficult issue. The 'D' light blinks from the moment I turn the key to ignition and when driving. The car shift perfectly. Scanned it with my low cost scanner and it came up with no error codes, tried with a good scanner and got U0122 - FCAN something something which I believe is the VSA or so. What could possibly make the D-light blinks? I only asked the electrician to fix my fog light.
Checked the tranny oil and it's intact.

I'm a professional IT Guy, I earn about 7.3 million annually. I have no regrets chasing those IT qualifications and burning candles in the past. Now we aiming high. Attending a summit in Orlando very soon to discuss the future of IT in the corporate world. If am to start over, I will still study IT. IT is the new world. No organization can survive without it. We taking over.

Abuja is just the best. Driving around on a Sunday and you be like 'where's everyone at in this town'.

2BB4CB3E:
10. Your face, when you see VIO and the traffic light is red.

True that lol
I remember telling a VIO officer that if my car should go off, it won't start up anymore and that I was heading to a mechanic workshop. I was just annoyed I got pulled over.

You guys are the best. This forum is the best thing that can ever happen to a Nigerian. All the technicians I've met kept saying new gearbox or rebuild. I nearly took a deep into my account to get a new gearbox.

I just changed the ECU and believe you me, all issue from engine to transmission has miraculously disappeared. Car runs smooth, quiet and fast now.

Many thanks guys.

luvinhubby:
Unfortunately bros, that 2008 accord gear issues are often traced to ECUs more often & your best option maybe to meet a toks ECU dealer and collect one from him and install in your vehicle, if issues are solved, you pay, if not you return his 'market' to him & save up for a gear.


A faulty shaft speed semsor triggers the D light blinking, that may not be a major cause of the gear problem.

Thanks boss. I am going to change the ECU and see what happens. I am very open right now to have the gear replaced but everything shifts fine on highway driving and most times street driving but the flaring just happens once in a while.

papiroza:
So, I took the vehicle to car doctor for a look after i have changed the camshaft sensors without any improvement . He performed the magic and the car now runs super well. However, the VSA and CEL remained on. According to him, he checked all the electrical wire connections on the vehicle. Further checks revealed that the timing is incorrect. He corrected it and now the car runs super. Infact, we did 180km/hr while test-driving (the car couldn't do more than 120km/hr before).

I still wish the VSA and CEL get off the car, even though cardoctor said I can drive with the lights on. According to him, every trace points to the fault coming from the ECU. He suggested changing the ECU for the problem to be solved and I'm not ready for that yet. Thanks everyone for your contributions.


Yes, I read the thread from A to Z. Thanks.

@papiroza I am having this same issue. Got a toks engine recently but now having a camshaft position sensor error with sluggishness same as yours.

Can I have the mechanic number that works on yours? I am also in Abuja.

mayor2013:
P2229- this a code traced down to your barometric pressure sensor(also called map sensor) yours should be located at the tip of the throttle body, check for a bad connection if all is fine change the sensor. Your barometer pressure sensor is not located in the ecu.

P0722. This code means there is a problem with your outspeed shaft sensor. The sensor is located directly on the transmission. What it does it monitors the speed @ which the transmission is and transfers that information to the ecu which is in turn seen on your instrument panel. Your speedometer might malfunction. The last two codes came up as a result of your mechanic. He has messed up things. If you are in lagos reach multi autolab for a solution on 08165520837 or 08156087872

Unfortunately I am in Abuja.

Check the P2229 here, it's in the ECU http://www.autocodes.com/p2229_honda.html

kkulaja:
Your problem might actually be ECU as Orex has said,and u should noyt have allowed them touch the valve body.
Quick one,
1.Did u scan the car before the valve body was worked on?
2. If yes what error codes did u get?

Ur problem might have been the ECU and the kazeem dat tampered the gearbox might have compounded the problem.

Now way 4ward.if u scanned the car b4 the gearbox was tampered & the errors codes u got were ECU related,then change the ECU by driving to the market close to you where can get access to many ECUs to trouble shoot wit and u might still have to change D gear

Yes. Scan didn't bring up any errors but car was flaring when accelerating from gear 1 to 2 with no blinking D light. The gear oil was checked, changed and certified okay. Everyone I met kept saying its internal to the gearbox not the sensors since no errors was showing up in the scan.

0rex:
Does the light come on before ignition?

None at all.

stephcruse:
P0722 is refering to output shaft sensor(no signal)
solution -locate output shaft
2-check the wire if is not broken
3-check if the conetor is conected
4-change the sensor and rescan.
Let work on that first,you can also call for more info 08023284076 good lock

Before servicing, that sensor was working perfectly with no error code. No harm in changing it. Thanks

0rex:
Replacing the ECU is less expensive, laborious and complication-prone, and might be the cause of your transmission issues. I will start from there given those two options. As per cost, I have no idea but you can create a thread for that purpose or ask GAZZUZZ, honmusa et. al.
What type of work was done on your gearbox?

Thanks for the response. They cleaned the valve body, changed the solenoid switches, flushed trans oil. I guess the ecm/pcm has been touched. Check engine light has never shown since I got the car.

I have been having shifting issues on my car with no registered trans codes. Changed the gear sensors, still no luck. Had my car scanned a million times. Engine brings up these errors:
P2229 Barometer pressure sensor(located in the ECU)
P0135 o2 sensosr(changed this but error still persist)

Took it for a transmission repair (still shifting poorly from first gear to 2 but now with errors, P0722, P0780, P1734)

My concern now is, the engine errors signifies something isn't well with the ECU (P2229 cause from research is an outdated or faulty ECU) and replacing the trans might not be the total fix for it. Any advice and how much can I get the ECM/PCM for a 2008 Honda Accord