kingreign:


Stop misleading people

His confidence in his response is what scared me..like kilode!!

GAZZUZZ:


08033910382.

I no longer give prices online.

Okay chief, will surely do. Thanks

Chief Gazzuzz, I hail you thoroughly.

Please how much is genuine toyota type WS atf sir?

kingreign:


I doubt any electrician will give him an ecu with part payment. It's not their property, it's a part seller's property unless the part seller and electrician reaches an agreement

See eehn chief, in addition to this point, an ECU seller will ask you that what if there's wiring problem with the car and it fries the the new ecu too or cause it to have the same problem that the damaged one has.

I once gave someone this kind of advice remotely for this same type of problem, the part seller gave me this excuse. I just told the car owner to hold on until I returned. I did an adaptation reset and it fixed the problem las las.

Cation25:
Here is my earlier tread regarding the fault my Camry 012 developed, https://www.nairaland.com/7691025/camry-012-jerk-when-changing

Some car gurus, like xperiencelove, Jimts, etc. gave me their professional suggestions on the possible cause of the issue and solution.

So, I took my car out for diagnosis and repair. The first "gear specialist" told me the gear has developed faults and needed to be replaced. He totalled everything, including his workmanship to be 450k.

I left there unconvinced, went to the second person, and he diagnosed the car and told me the gear sensor is faulty and some other things. He told me he will rectify the issue at the sum of 150k.

I was still unconvinced, so I went to another rewirer, he diagnose the car and told me the machine was pointing out the gear sensor, and that I should take the car to my mechanic to replace the sensor(he failed to mention which particular gear sensor). So I took the car to my mechanic, and after allowing the car to cool, he cleaned all the sensors, still the issue persist.

So, I called another gear specialist at Ladipo. He told me it is the valve body, and I need to change it. So we booked an appointment. Prior to that, I met someone in the church who referred a gear specialist/rewirer to me at Ladipo. So, I booked an appointment with that guy too. And, following my spirit leads, I asked the other specialist who suggested the valve body has developed faults to wait until the following day. I did that to meet with the other guy first to hear his own suggestions or findings.

When I finally meet this new guy(one young guy), he drove the car around and told me he will fix it but it will cost me 60k. So, we bargained and finally settled at 30k. He initially told me he will need to allow the car to cool for a minimum of 6 hours b4 he will open the gearbox, and that the car will be ready the next day. So I said okay. Later, he told me to enter the car and let's drive it again. We drove it a few distances then he parked and fixed his machine in the car. He carried out a TRANSMISSION ADAPTATION RESET and that solve the whole issue. This same thing was suggested to me by Jimts AutoJando here, but since I don't have the device to do it, I had to allow those guys to have their way.

I wanted to still bargain the initially agreed price(30k) but he declined that we already had an agreement. I was like something you did that did not take you 5 mins, he said "na my work." lol.

Guys, this issue affected my car fuel consumption seriously. Besides, the car doesn't move smoothly or speed as it use to. But since the rewirer guy reset the transmission adaption, the car is back to normal.

I took out time to narrate my experiences so other car owners can learn from them. Those mechanics and rewire guys are ready to milk you dry if you don't shine your eyes. Again, don't totally trust your mechanic, irrespective of your relationship with them. Try to verify things from 2 or 3 others before agreeing to most of their suggestions.

Thank you, xperiencelove, Jimts AutoJando, etc., for your suggestions and advice.

Mod please move this to the front page to reach a wider audience. Thanks.

Congrats Bro, I appreciate it when people bring feedbacks in a group like this. Others will definitely benefit from it.

Continue monitoring the shift quality and see if anything abnormal happens, I am hopeful that this is a permanent fix sha



AutoJando

buygala:



Please drive for at least a 100km journey before you do thanksgiving.. At least 100km at a stretch.

Some of these "resets" sweep faults under the carpet and resurface under stressful driving conditions.

Common logic should make you ask what unset the "transmission adaptation"in the first place to require its resetting... Something stored that error that needed resetting..perfectly working transmissions don't just get bored and develop errors...And until that something is fixed, that young guyman has possibly given your transmission mere first aid for 30k.. E go still land for hospital las las..

To be honest, you have a point.

However, it is necessary to understand the original reason why the transmission behaved the way it did.

In most cases, it is as a result of clogged oil filter which OP has changed. The clogged oil filter will cause dirt/ingress to wedge between sliding valves with valve bodies or between solenoids valves and their bores and so one. Once the ECT memory records that some solenoids are drawing more current than usual due to stickiness of some sort, it CAN DEACTIVATE that solenoid completely and change the shift points of the transmission. It will use alternate solenoids to try and achieve the same purpose but at the expense of shift quality. It is more like a failsafe mechanism to protect the transmission from damage. Now, if this is caught early enough(which i hope is the case for OP), a simple oil change with oil filter replacement will solve the problem "MECHANICALLY" but nothing changes in the ECT memory until an adaptation reset is done. In many cases, this often times solves the problem completely. In my experience, I've seen cases where the problem returns but won't be as severe as it was before. We continue to reset the transmission memory until this doesn't happen again. This will give ample time for all the ingress in the bores to come out. In our own case, we would not charge the customer the second or third time for the reset.



AutoJando

[quote author=Cation25 post=123184719][/quote]

Just saw this response now, try an adaptation memory reset before doing anything physical. I have had experiences where this was the only solution to a problem like this. Resetting the memory should be done using Techstream TIS or an equivalent scan tool with that capability. Only if the problem persist should you go ahead with the solenoid replacement.

Thanks,

AutoJando

Burchester:

Honda Accord 2008

If it is the 4plugs engine and it happens only on first start up in the morning, the culprit is the VTC actuator and the ultimate cause of its failure is the use of wrong grade oil and/or prolonged oil change intervals.

If you feed me with a scan data I can give you a potential solution to this problem.

Thanks,
AutoJando

[quote author=Cation25 post=123236714][/quote]

I would say you should let him give it a trial.

Though there are many sensors on an automatic transmission. Speed sensors, temperature sensors and pressure sensors, but these rarely fail.
I am guessing that he's implying that it is the solenoids that needs replacing, not sensors. Mechanics mix the two. Sensor is an input device while solenoid is an output device.

You will do this thread a lot of great service if you snap the pictures of the parts that were replaced and the eventual outcome of the repairs/procedures.

Thanks,

AutoJando

Burchester:


Both ?

You didn't mention the car?

Coolgent:

No, I am currently in Kaduna.

Sure it's the culprit, CODE: P0036

So I got the sensor, they asking for 55k for brand new one and 18k for fairly used one.
I am not the part seller but I am negotiating with him to send you at least 3 pcs so you can pick a working one and return the rest. He's my parts supplier so I trust him. You will pay for waybill yourself to and fro

Thanks

Burchester:


Camshaft noise issues.

Okay, which car is this?

And when does the noise occur, only on first cold start or while running too?







AutoJando

Burchester:


What's your friend workshop address ?

Depends on what you want to do. One is more of into mech repairs while the other is a diagnostics person.

So if we have a problem description here, I can know which direction to point you.
Thanks





AutoJando

Adaba0803:
Good morning my people, abeg help my life I don put 5 direct tokunbo (engine lose) alternator inside my Honda Civic 06 and everything dey do overcharging ( if it's working without loading it the battery light on dashboard will show,but if I load it with headlight,ac, harzad light and radio after 20 to25 mins the light go off) and my present one is going under charging in sense that it works normal during the day even with AC but once I on headlight plus the AC at night it stops charging . Pls what could be the problem and is the a rewire that can help me around Abule Egba axis. Pls help a brother.

Your problem description matches that of poor/corroded connection terminals either between the B post of your alternator to the battery or between the B post cable to the fusebox. It is a charge voltage regulation problem.
There's a thick gauge single wire connected to your alternator, trace it to the point where it enters the fuse box. Ensure it is not touching any metallic part of the car's body. Also, at the point where it is bolted to the fusebox, loosen the nut and check for corrosion between the terminals. After this, there are two fuses that are linked to your alternator charing circuit, one is a maxi/high amperage fuse. Should be 80A if I remember correctly located in the fusebox in the engine bay. Remove it and check for corrosion or poor connection. The second one is a 10A fuse no4 (voltage sensing circuit) on your dashboard just above the driver's side footwell, check if the fuse is blown or terminals are corroded.

Do these checks yourself if you have the time before you do anything further. Wrong diagnosis cost money and frustration.



AutoJando

Coolgent:

No, I am currently in Kaduna.

Sure it's the culprit, CODE: P0036

Okay sharp!

I will give you feedback later this evening





AutoJando

Cation25:
Good morning car gurus in the house. My Camry 012 usually jerks noticeably when changing gears in motion, particularly when speeding. It sometimes does as if it wants to stop suddenly when it wants to change gear. My mechanic has serviced the gear and changed the filter but the issue persists.

What could be the cause, please?

Your mechanic has done the right things so far.
What needs to be tried next is to carry out a transmission adaptation reset. If you have someone with a Professional Scan tool around(not just an error codes guy) approach him and tell him to help you reset the ECT memory. Often times, this works.
If it doesn't, observe this and bring feedback;
Start driving from a full stop. The moment you take off, you are in gear one. Pay attention to how gear 2 enters as you're speeding up. If it is smooth, pay attention to gear 3. What we want to know here is, which gear gives the shift flare. Most common cases is 2-3 shift flares or 3-2binds.
Check these and revert




AutoJando

holysaint1:



the corolla is 05, the color of the transmission oil is light/black mixture and it does not have a smoky smell.

after reading, it showed "solar noise". was quite surprised it wasn't a code.

also another twist now is that coupled with the previous issue, currently, it doesn't change gear.

it just remains at gear 1.

wetin dey cause this one again

This initially sounded like an external problem related to poor articulation between your shift lever and the cable that transmits the motion to the shift linkage on the tranny.
Check if there's any play in your shift lever. When you shift into reverse, try jerking the lever back and forth and wait to feel the car engage reverse.
For the second problem, observe now if the tranny oil colour/smell has darkened/worsened from the last time you checked.




AutoJando

Coolgent:

Anyone

Will give you feedback today.
If you're in Abj, you might have to go to my friend's workshop to get it installed and confirm that it is working before you pay.

Do you currently have any codes showing that the sensor is a culprit?





AutoJando

henrymor:
Good Morning Gurus in the house.

The brake of my 2005 Toyota Highlander keeps bouncing back when I press it. The brake also gets hard towards when going down making it had for the vehicle to stop at the right time.

I spoke to a brake man and he said the ABS has a problem and needs to be bypassed manually for me to enjoy the brake.

Please is this true?

Before spending 1kobo or doing a bypass as suggested by you mecho, try these inspections;

Remove all 4 tyres and check the condition of the rotors discs. Are they having scarred surface, uneven wear or thinned out. If you notice anyone with any of the above, change that particular one first. Also ensure that the discs have approximately the same thickness. The proper way to measure this is using a vernier caliper, but a diy friendly way is to use measuring tape or ruler.

After all that is taken care of, inspect the condition of all 8 brake pads, if anyone is unevenly worn out, replace it. If it is still full, find a 500grit sand paper, lay it down on a flat surface and file it down until it is evenly flat. You can repeat this step for all the pads until they are all flat and have approximately equal thickness.

Complete all these steps before you try undertaking a parts cannon adventure. Braking system repairs can become expensive pretty fast and pretty quickly, and the outcome may still remain unsatisfactory.


AutoJando

Coolgent:


Location: Kaduna/Abuja
Downstream

You want brand new or fairly used?

jahgogo:

Please want to know if it safe for me to be driving the car 1st like that till money enter hand to do all this things?

Before you embark on doing the more difficult things, try the easy ones.

These codes usually only occur on one bank at a time. I asked you about when last you changed oil and the grade because the only thing operationally common to both banks is the oil. If the oil used in the car before you got it was mineral oil, the new synthetic oil you have there might cause temporary sludge buildup in the engine due to its cleaning properties. Dirty/contaminated oil can trigger those codes. When the ECM issues commands to the OCVs to advance or retard timing and does not see a phase change through the CMP sensors, it will set those codes.

This being said, before you go through the route of "dropping the engine" as your mecho insists, try to remove the OCVs on both banks. Clean them by soaking them in a solvent like petrol or get carb cleaner. Test them(momentarily) with battery voltage by supplying power to them and pay attention to hear a sharp clicking sound. You can also perform resistance test using multimeter. The reading you should be looking for is 6.9ohms to roughly 8ohms.

DO NOT DO ANYTHING SERIOUS UNTIL YOU RULE OUT ALL THE SIMPLE STUFF!!!

jahgogo:


Na Toyota Avalon 06 model with 2gr Engine

The mechanic say the timing non correct say him need to reset the timing.

Hi Jahgogo.

All the possible causes highlighted by kingrein were dead on.

To get a good foundation of what the problem is, how often do you change your oil? And which oil do you use?

Hi Kingrein,

I salute what you're doing on this thread and would appreciate if I can get your permission to also reply to questions. If I'm wrong, please call me to order ASAP.

As the OP, I believe it is rude to just barge in and start making comments on people's problem when I could be misleading people. With the small experience I have in the Auto repair business, I have concluded that nothing costs more money than wrong diagnostics. This is what simply puts holes in the pocket of the car owner and ruins your reputation as a trusted autotech.

So please, permission to carry on?

Mikehot:
Yoruba Muslims don't know anything about real islam that's why sultan sight moon on their behalf till date.

Usman Dan fodio their adopted patriarch never saw Islam as a religion on peace at any time


They don't know Muhammad himself alluded to terrorism as his key to spreading islam

Sahih Bukhari (52:220) - Allah's Apostle said... 'I have been made victorious with terror'

Narrated Abu Huraira: Allah's Apostle said, "I have been sent with the shortest expressions bearing the widest meanings, and I have been made victorious with terror (cast in the hearts of the enemy), and while I was sleeping, the keys of the treasures of the world were brought to me and put in my hand."

Everyone that is here ranting about monopoly of market being controlled by the two major cement shareholders (Dangote & Abdussamad) have no idea of the happenings in the cement industry.
For the benefit of clarification, I will give you all a quick rundown of the factors that shot the prices to the roof.

1. Corona lockdown
From March till June, most part of the country was under lockdown. This means that all construction activities were put on hold. As soon as it was lifted, the demand for cement naturally skyrocketed in arrears for the month of idleness. This is common sense.

2. ENDSARS Protest
During this period, curfews were imposed in many states. In Edo, BUA cement did not dispatch 1 bag of cement for nearly 5 days. That's an average of 60,000 tons of cement lost to down time. Similar thing happened in Ibese from information reaching us. Mark you, supply has further been shortened.

3. Bad road
Anyone familiar with Auchi/Okpella/Okenne axis of Benin/Okene expressway knows the frequency with which a complete traffic lockdown occurs. Some trucks spend 3 days between Okenne and Auchi (journey of less than 70km) alone because of deplorable state of the road leading to falling of heavy-duty vehicles and incessant breakdowns. This causes delay in the delivery of cement, therefore worsening the supply volume.

4. Internal factory challenges

Many a time, drop in gas pressure in our plant leads to drop in power available to run equipment because some of the gas powerplants have to be stopped. This is a problem beyond BUA or Dangote's control as gas is supplied by NGC (a subsidiary of NNPC). When there's no sufficient power, major equipment like cement mills have to be stopped, reducing the silo level for cement. This one is obviously a shortage in production.

5. Greed.

I've seen many of you complaining that the prices were raised by the factory owners, you are completely wrong. The factory price is still hovering around #2,400. This is the price at which BUA supplies to its customers with delivery. But because some of the customers prefer to just sell the ATC (authority to collect) to middlemen who pay for transportation (self collection), it increases the price/bag to about #3,000 by the time it arrives the buyer. These customers I mentioned earlier have paid billions of naira into chairman's account in exchange for the cement ATC, but many of them are not actually interested in selling cement. They only want to sell the ATC to middlemen and make quick money. This is the first level of greed.
The middlemen deliver the cement, depending on the distance between #2,800-#3,300 to cement retail sellers. Second level of greed happens here. The retailers then decide to sell it at #4,000.
mentality of the average Nigerian. This is the worst of all the greed.


All of these are the reasons why the problem is highly compounded and it will really take a while for things to normalize.
Whatever the story is, we will all build our houses this year!!

Naci uwar fireball!!

Oga GAZZUZZ, I loyal scatter!

Thanks for all the good job you are doing here, I'm following and learning.

Boss please I have this 2001 Lexus lx470 that started giving out heavy puff of white smoke on cold start up. It stays like that until after the engine has warmed to about 1/4 or so. It just started mysteriously after I tried to replace the front passenger shock because it wasn't bouncing.

I've personally done some basic preliminary checks:

1.
Scanned with Delphi DS150e scanner, only one error code related to coolant temperature which was expected because thermostat has been removed long ago.

2.
Checked pcv valve for clogging but it wasn't. The ball valve was audibly shaking when I shook it. Though I still went ahead and cleaned the small deposits of carbon.

Please can you give me direction of what you think might be the cause of this?

The engine is 2UZ-FE

mgdimagaladima:
please
I need your help
I have Mazda 626 2001 Model.

the car is consuming much fuel ,
I want to scan the car but the scanning port of the car is OBD1 ( 17 pin)
uptill now I didn't find scanner with 17 pin.


as I started the car yesterday ,I removed the airflow meter cable and put it back while the car is still running
the car didn't off


please what should I do?

[color=#000099][/color]That was a very good test, replace airflow meter.

If you don't trust my verdict, here's a picture of how you can connect your 17pin OBD port on your car to 16 pin OBD II port

Dear affected students,

Hustle hard (legally) within this period so that when they finally decide to call off the strike, you can tell them to go hell with their certificates and get on with your new business..

#Word4TheWise

If you've not yet sold the car, please try replacing the coolant reservoir cap first. I had similar experience with a golf 3 auto I bought to sell. The car will be moving sluggishly and also overheats. I was at the verge of replacing the gearbox just like you when a mechanic in katsina just decided to change the reservoir cap. Till I sold the car, there was no more overheating or sluggishness

True to God the car fine die, even pass sienna sef

Thank God Shell has finally cleared my doubt. My own regret mail came in today. Coincidentally, my current job just became much more handsome.. If you know what I mean though