ojeysky:


I hear that a lot and[b] makes me wonder; if the standalone CC dies[/b], what's the use of the standalone inverter that is still alive? especially in a off-grid set-up.
The main gist for me is that anyone that wants consistent power source should keep a copy of their hybrids or the standalones. May master J bless our hustle.

Bros, the bolded happening is very rare. When you hear CCs that have died, it's due to either not properly sized or battery breaker tripping and blowing the stuff. In ALL my installations over the years, no single CC has ever had issue. They're quite built to last. And that is why they're not meant to be repaired; but to be replaced if it goes bad.

But there are, and there would, always be cases of inverter failures, resulting from numerous factors. An inverter can wake up and decide not to function again! just like that o...

So, now compare when your standalone inverter have issue and u still have ur standalone CC keeping ur batteries healthy and when ur hybrid have issue and nothing remain... Ur battery is good as dead

As for the copy aspect, we know that's not rational. Someone can't just decide to buy two systems just because he's anticipating failure. We're looking at a system that is more reliable, Flexible, and most importantly, batteryLife-friendly

earthrealm:


maybe, maybe not....i recently operated the mighty Sorotec hybrid inverter, and i am super pleased with its functions and data logging capability, i have also owned/used morning star CC {my first love], so i feel am in a better position to offer an unbiased comparism. For a frugal/thrifty person like me...its a no brainer putting down almost 300k for a 60amps morning star CC, whn such amount will buy me a 5.5kva 48v Sorotec hybrid inverter that can handle 4500w panels [ this implies an 80 or 90amps inbuilt CC] and accept 500Voc panel input. and inbuilt wifi capability and you still have small change sef.

I believe you may have a rethink when you lay your hands on a well built hybrid inverter like sorotec/phoccos/easun/MPP etc.The world is marching on. standalone CCs in the coming years will be relegated to the background ---bookmark this.
again, not everyone will buy into them, but i believe majority of people would...

Lolz,.... First it was LA battery technology that is about going obsolete. Now, it's standalone CC... 22nd century fallacies, I must say... I might as well easily believe that Nigeria would soon colonize UK

durodee:
I have used both hybrid and standalone systems now for about 6years. My observations:
1) Hybrids easier to procure and deploy as per cost and ease of initiating newbies to RE.
2) Most hybrids seems to be having relationship issues with Litium batteries ( charging profile mainly) also estimating the SOC seems to be a challenge.
3) In a stand alone system if your inverter is faulty then your system is down same as in Hybrid situation- it's same same. Moreover, CCs aspect of my hybrids has never given me issues only the inverter part and I could believe that it's due to the fact that it's the one doing the heaviest work
4) Hybrids do not seem to like low grid voltages for charging. No issue with the bypass mode but gets stressed if also used for charging ( one of mine actually caught fire , real �) , could not charge anymore yet continued to invert for years afterwards.

My conclusion: which car is the best? Petrol or diesel cars? I hope you get my point

Hi Durodee,
Kindly permit me to disagree with you on the bolded. In the standalone system, if your inverter is faulty and you take it out for repairs, your batteries are still kept at optimal charge by the solar system via your CC.

If your hybrid inverter is taken out for repair, your batteries becomes vulnerable to the sulfation. It becomes worse if the batteries were already discharged (even if by 20%... Still having 80%).
Remember that leaving a LA battery in partially discharged state for more than 2 weeks leads to (temporary) sulfation. Beyond that, the sulfation starts crystalizing and can become permanent, and ur batteries becomes irredeemable.

CC hardly fails... They rarely do, unless misconnected or not properly sized. Let's assume I've done 60 Solar system installations over 7years; if 10 have had issues with the Inverter, not a single one has had issue with the CC. Not one!

However, even the premium inverters fails, even without warning. I have a client that his Magnum inverter got blown and it took about 3months to have the board replaced. The man was not ready to even buy any temporary inverter to use. His comfort was that his solar panels were keeping the batteries healthy. Imagine it were a hybrid inverter, no matter which section is wrong, the whole unit is going to be taken out. You'll have 50 panels on ur roof and your 1000Ah battery bank is suffering sulfation, because the whole inverter/SCC unit is out... I've witnessed about 3 experiences with hybrids.

No inverter is immune to failure (whether factory fault or external factor).
98% of people that always have intention of going for hybrid system is solely because of its cost saving. So, if your hybrid inverter develop issues and you're taking it out for repair, what happens to your batteries, especially if the repair duration would be uncertain? Would you then decide to get a CC to save ur batteries? Hmmmmmm

As a matter of fact, I usually try to discourage clients from doing hybrid systems. They are never rugged and reliable compared to standalone systems. All those monitoring and logging popular with hybrids are just secondary luxuries...

Good day house,

Any member who has, or who knows who has, all or any of the following components:

1) DC Surge Device above 600V (to be used in a system of around 800VDC)

2) 415-500V 3-phase 4-pole AC Surge Device (to be used in a 400V 3-phase setup)

3) 3-phase voltage protection device, rated 400V

4) 3-phase load limiter, 400V 100A

5) 400A-500A enclosed Bus bar (for DC connections)

6) 100-200A enclosed bus bar (for inverters paralleling)

7) 250A and 300A DC Circuit breaker... Preferably, the 2-poles MCCB design; not the MCB version.

And 12V/260Ah Varta AGM Battereis......


Feedback needed ASAP. 08-18:26 25_213.... Whatsapp

Cheers...

Valto:
still available >>

Would be interested in that ur ATS.... No contact?

dejidotun2000:
The part I wanted to see is the ends of the rails as shown in the pictures you attached. Many thanks.

Why did you leave that space between the roof and the back of the solar panels ?

For air circulation

dejidotun2000:
Can you please share the cross section picture of the rail.

Hello Deji,
. Can you elaborate.... That response I gave was with the picture of the Aluminum Locks tile that serves as the main rail

Edit: see attached... Hope the pics answers ur query.

Cheers

ceaser:


The first picture.
Two inverters??

The voltage stabilizer is for PHCH right?

Hi Ceaser,

Client is using just one inventer... He bought the second one, fairly used, as a spare.... In case

Yes, for PHCN

GeorgeD1:
in conclusion, while i'm reluctant to change a winning team (obviously lead-acid has served me well),
i'm open to new technology and definitely lithium will have a major part to play going forward as a
next steps towards acquiring even more storage as i continue adding power guzzling creature
comfort equipment to the house.

We all know that Lead-Acid remains the winning team...
Just that the few Lithium users are more or less like Chelsea fans... IfYouKnowYouKnow

I come and go in peace.

Congrats grand patron!!! More grace

GeorgeD1:
so, goodbye zenith (it was good while it lasted) and welcome Sonnenschein!

Wow... Very good option. And German brand, if I'm not mistaken!
Kudos patron!!!

World class execution.... We always make it Safe, Neat, Efficient, Flexible, and Professional

Solar Energy remains the future!

Sun remains the answer!!!

zeestone99:
For sale. Used eapro 500va and contec 1kva. Working perfectly.
500va -28k
1kva - 38k

Evening boss,

What's the charging current ?

ojeysky:


Since it's just 2 cells of 12v of same life history in series without multiple Ps or Ss(e.g 48v) involved I don't see the need for a balancer in such a scenario; both ends of the charger terminates on either sides of the 2 batteries in case of 24v so I don't see why there should be an unbalance in such a scenario if everything is fine with the 2 batteries.

It's a matter of choice though but I don't see the advantage except that there may be a disadvantage in the case of a balancer that is failing.

Hi Ojeysky,

I also used to think same. Some years back, I carried out an experiment on a client's 24V 400Ah Battery Bank Consisting of 4# 12V 200Ah Batteries... All batteries are of same age (both year and month). The system was installed without a Balancer, but with DC voltmeters.

And all batteries were independently charged to float before installation.

3 days later, he called my attention to deviation among the 2 lower batteries (based on rack design; 2 batteries were up and 2 down). The observation was that during absorbtion charge, the 2 lower batteries always deviate by up to 0.5V (one reading 14.6V and the other 14.1V) and the upper 2 deviating by 0.2V (one reading 14.4 and the other 14.2V)... Meanwhile, the CC Absorbtion Charge voltage was set to 28.8V.

I told him after few cycles, they should normalize.... But, after 3 weeks, still same. All batteries reads same during bulk/boost charge; but once it enters absorbtion, the deviation kicks in. And stays like that until Float and all reading are same again. Even during inverting, battery readings are same.

See, if that system was left like that, overtime, that deviation would become more pronounced and eventually becomes irredeemable.

At first, I added HA02 to only the lower batteries. During Absorbtion, the lower batteries reads same.. Except the upper ones. After monitoring for another 3 days, I added to the top ones.
It's 4 years now, and the batteries are all still reading same at every point in time... Well, sometimes, according to the client, there's deviation of just 0.1V...
Over the last 4 years I've know about Balancer, I can't remember installing any battery (24V or 48V system) for client, that I purchased myself, without a Balancer... Except the client purchased the batteries himself.

And for both 24V & 48V system, I use the HA02 Balancer

Any battery connection, as long as it's series-connection, is prone to unbalance.

However, it should be noted that Battery Balancer MUST be installed at the initial period of battery installation.. It doest NOT aid failing batteries

But for me, I strongly believe it works... Depends on whether you buy from a reliable source or from Alaba

First, it was White carton Amaron Quanta.... Then, Brown Carton Amaron Quanta....

And boom! We now have Yellow Carton "Amaron Quanta" (Amaron Solar )

This Solar Energy world no balance at all... Wetin solar panel no go see for people roof! Lolz

The ultimate Green Carton version is coming...

earthrealm:


MY brother, this is what am saying in a nutshell .
people make purchases of several hundred thousands, or millions, as a procurement outfit, the buyer will have to entrust you with his cash..and hopes you deliver within agreed timeframes. its not easy for,king out such cash to a faceless stranger on the web, having a thread, where one can see your previous transactions and reviews will give potential clients a certain level of comfort.

like the thread below, i transacted severally with the guy after going through his thread, same procurement biz, as you

https://www.nairaland.com/3894150/buy-ebay-350-other-major




150ah out of 200ah battery is too much to take out from a battery...unless you are replenishing such concurrently.
would recommend, a panel design that would carry this 150ah multiplied by 2, is 300ah @ 12v is 3600 watts. 3600 watts divided by 4hrs implies you need 900 watts panel to have a well designed system, if you are offgrid.

however be aware that if you have smf battery, and you fail to run your loads concurrently, on a sunny day you would have over 60amps flowing to the battery, this will kill the average single 12v 200ah smf battery quickly, within 6 months

Very important to note!

ceaser:


I don't know of any 200L freezer that consumes 50w or 60w. Maybe 70 litres or 58 litres freezer sha. I don't even think DC freezer is that low, else they won't recommend 2 units of 250 watts panel and 2 units of 150 ah battery for adequate backup. The least by 200L will be 100 watts.


Meanwhile, the vendor I expected the inverter freezer from disappointed on delivery after two weeks of deposit, so I demanded my refund and got it from another who had in stock, albeit at a higher price - 5k550 more. Nameplate rating is 115 watts.

Just begun the monitoring about 3 hours ago. Not yet impressed cos the wattmeter recorded 165 watts for over 2 hours now from an initial 107 watts 5 minutes after start-up.

When it starts, it begins at around 170 watts and befinns to drop over the next one minute or so to around and fluctuates between 107 watts~120 watts.

Put in some water. After about one hour it's at 158 watts. Now approaching 3 hrs it read 165 watts.

Hmmmm. So like I said, I'm not impressed yet. I hope it does not disappoint o, otherwise na to begin look for buyer.

Lolz.... I doubt if he was saying that a 200L freezer consumes 50W or 60W.
I believe he was saying that the power consumption difference between an AC & DC 200L freezer is around 50W/60W.
In other words, if a 200L AC freezer consumes, say 200W, then a 200L DC freezer probably consumes 150W

tonididdy:


Is this a rechargeable fan?
Is it an industrial fan?
What's smart about it?


The price is so unreasonable for a standing fan.
Make una take am easy.

Lollzz... E shock you?

Haven't you walked into a Samsung showroom and see an ordinary TV with a price tag of 1.7m and wonder if the TV can always show you your village people, so you can always watch them and know when they're on your matter

But then, the features of the standing fan make sense sha...

ojeysky:


It's the silver in the picture here, got a few more when I placed some order recently. Have a few 12v and ant(7s to 16s) BMS as well both with bluetooth.

https://www.nairaland.com/390522/solar-energy-complement-fta/747#89842978

OK, already saw where u stated its strictly for little Lithium... Thought it's also for Lead Acid.

Thanks

ojeysky:


For LFP? I have some adjustable current and voltage 12v 50A chargers that just came in. It's 50k each.

Interesting... Kindly share brand/pics and specs, if you don't mind.
And what's ur location?

earthrealm:


Yingli does it at half the cost

Hahhaahaha... I give up

earthrealm:


You didnt see my review of yingli 280w poly panels.
That shit routinely delivers in excess of nameplate energy rating.

Same with Canadian Solar

ojtech8291:
Good Morning, everyone. New Bank of 24V200AH not reaching float with 24v1.25kVa inverter and charging current of 40A for 5 hours. Please help.

Hi Ojtech,

First, you missed out quite some details.. You didn't specify if it's hybrid inverter or standalone.
I also want to assume that the battery bank is a combination of 12V 200Ah batteries connected in series.

You also didn't specify if the Inverter was actually outputting the 40A during the observation... Might be possible it's not. And also the quality of the Mains voltage

However, though it's new, how long it would take depends on the state of the battery.
I bought 8 set of Quanta Batteries last 2weeks for an installation. I put all through an independent pre-charge, which I normally do before installation. Each of them took between 8-10hrs to go from boost charge (@250-260W) to Float Charge (@30-35W). And yes, I monitor each using a Socket-plug wattmeter. Few of them were September 2019, while others were October. Been sitting in warehouse for quite a time, and I believe that's why they took that long to go through the charge stages... Otherwise, it usually take 3-5hrs

So, there are factors that could make it take that long. You could provide any other detail that might help

Lastly, I want to believe that those batteries are AGM or they are actually designed to handle such amount of charging current. 40A on a 200Ah Battery bank is quite big.... That is, if it's charging through Mains supply irrespective of whether there are powered loads or not

Cheers

ojeysky:


Normally you require 5 hours to fully charge 24v 200AH at 40A so it seem like a normal behaviour since you said you have load concurrently. It then depends on how much load you have concurrently

I'm a little bit confused... I don't remember load affecting how effective an inverter charges a battery bank during Standby Mode...

When an inverter is charging battery bank through Mains supply, the Inverter usually operates in "Standby Mode". In this mode, the Inverter has an internal bypass that it uses to directly supply the loads connected to it, at the same voltage as the Mains supply. At the same time, the Inverter draws an independent power to charge the batteries.
The loads connected to the Inverter during charging from Mains Supply do NOT affect the battery charging.

spartacus11:


Please what is the meaning of the Half-Cut stated on the panel.

It's a split-cell technology methodology.... Saw that first on Canadian Solar. Kind of makes the panel more efficient.
Flames decided to adopt that too.. That's good

anjilgreat:
Good morning all, pls help me make a decision. I am planning to get 600W monocrystalline solar panel latest next week as soon as the inter-state lockdown is lifted.

I have a 24V system with an in-built charge controller whose maximum solar array is 600W and based on my research, I have narrowed down my choice to two products :

1. 3 numbers of 200W Yinglin or
2. 2 numbers of 300W Canadian solar panel

Pls advice on the better choice, thanks in anticipation.

Option 2....

Cheers

spartacus11:

Makeskyblue MPPT 40A or 60A
Distance 16 yards or 15 meters it can be less but not more

12v or 24v it can be either

For 12V system (panels in parallel), the 10mm is the required cable

For 24V system (panels in series), even a 4mm cable can serve. But use 6mm

Both cases are at 5% loss

Cheers

Trippledots:


Won't a soft start circuit solve this for conventional inductive loads with high inrush current at start up?...it may just be more economical to get a soft starter and use with conventional inductive loads.

Except of course to upgrade is higher in priority sha.

Hi Trippledots,

I doubt if you can just buy a soft starter and use it with any inductive load. I believe that load has to be designed for such. For example, you can't just buy a soft starter or a VFD for an electric motor simply because you want to "check" the surge pull of that motor; the motor must be designed for such method of starting, otherwise it would malfunction..

By the way, note that what Soft starter or VFD does is that it reduces the Voltage/frequency applied to the inductive device and gradually ramps it up. If you apply a reduced voltage/frequency to a device not designed for such, it would burn out.

An inverter fridge cruises from very low watt up to about its rated watt, with the rated voltage/frequency applied to it.

So, it's not that simple to just use a soft starter

ceaser:


Bro, 18w for a 32 inch is actually impressive and I won't mind it as a replacement for an 11 yr old LG 32 inch LCD that clocks in at 35 watts at eco max. The 65" consumes 38 watts at eco max, so I know I gat good deal on that.

Who will even buy an 11 yr old 32 inch LCD, reason I've had to live with it like that. Another fear is even if I find a fairly efficient replacement today, next month I won't come here to find someone spotting a 32 inch with 10 watts consumption and I will start thinking about how to replace a month old TV again.

Abeg wetin be the name/model of that your lovely A++ efficient 32 inch again, I want to check something . Is it smart TV?

And the name and model of your fridge too.

Attached is the data for the TV... Go with a watt meter when you want to goan buy, e get why!

For the bolded, kindly check up... I've posted the model and pictures earlier.

Cheers

ceaser:


It's like inverter appliances will be my next target of investment, aswear. But it's only ACs, freezer, fridges, washing machines and microwave oven that covers that terrain of inverter tech.

The 203L Haier never even reach one year and I'm already itching for this. that was how I retired a new not too efficient 42 inch LED for an A++ efficient 65 inch after 6 months. Because I couldn't get to sell the former quickly, I was forced to give it out against my wish.

I'm worried this extreme urge of acquisition is not bordering on some abnormality.

Lolz... Truth is, sometimes, you can never get them once. There's always a newer and more energy-efficient version.
I have a colleague who doesn't use iPhone more than one year. And there are people like that; always changing to newer versions of phones, and that's because the cash is there...

But then, it depends on you. You can manage what you have or you can upgrade.

Now, there are fans of about 15W or less, at highest speed. And people are changing fans.

Whether you choose to change appliances for newer and more efficient versions depends on how passionate you are about efficiency and then availability of the resources... Usually more of passion and addiction

ceaser:


Salivating......

How fridge go dey consume 28watts, something a TV cannor even boast of?

This is cheating.

Lolz.... It depends on the TV ooo. I have a 32" 55W TV that consumes 18W at Eco mode.

However, attached are 3 different pics for my inverter fridge consumption, after running for certain hours..

ojeysky:


But isn't this the behaviour of normal fridge as well? It does seem to be the behaviour of my over a decade old thermocool fridge. By the way I don't think the power will remain low if the fridge losses power for a significant period of time. I think it also depends on the environmental temperature set on the fridge.

Hi Ojeysky,

To an extent, yes.... But there are wide differences.
I used to have a Table-Top (student) fridge rated 75W. Every single time the fridge is starting, it pulls around 800/900W...not kidding. Even my 1.5KVA/24V Mopower Inverter beeps. I've run it for over 10hrs,yet it kicks in at over 500W...

My present Inverter fridge cruises from around 20W and gradually reaches the 78W max. It starts coming down after like 5-12hrs. Stabilizes at around 30W after 14hrs.

For the bolded, that's the whole point. Why would it lose power, if you're looking at inverter fridge? With inverter fridge, it's best to run it 24/7. The only periods I cut off power is when there's rain and it comes with Lightning and thunder. I usually do a total isolation of my inverter system, since the house I'm staying doesn't have either a Lightning/thunder arrestor or even grounding for me to use a SPD.
Even if the power loss lasts for about 3hrs, after powering the fridge back, it doesn't go above 55W and within 1hr, it stabilizes back to around 30W...