eltolu:
Hello solar gurus, what could be the cause when the CC is showing it's receiving voltage from the solar (64V) panels but 0.0Amp? The CC is not indicating any wiring fault and I cant pinpoint when it started happening.

The system consists of 4 solar panels (300W each) connected to a 60A CC and a 3KVA inverter connected to a 48V battery system.

Just like Earthrealm has mentioned, its always good to provide details...

However, in the absence of more details, one of the interpretation could be that your battery bank is already full ( even past floating).

So, next time check what your battery voltage is...
Float voltage for a 48V battery bank is between 54-55.2V (@13.5-13.8V per battery)

Cheers

idsolar:
Topmaike007 :
hi bro pls I need your help on how you install your solar panel without causing leakage on your roof.




every typical roof have ridges and gutters. the nail that attach d roof to rafter is on d ridges. from experience, when installing, never punch gutter, that is d water way. infact as for me when installing, I try to use d already roof nail punch. even with that i don't forget as precaution to put flashbar before and after my nail as sealant. nagode

in addition, you can also use silicone sealant to seal where you make the holes...

BetaTechnicians:

Yes I understand, but switching of PV under load? I have seen breaker go up in flames in such scenario which is why I'm asking if there's a fail-safe method for such.

Hi BT,

now I understand your point. you're right but however, the breaker wouldn't go up in flames if you use the right type (DC) and the right size, just like Lexi has rightly stated.

nonetheless, in that particular installation, its only the positive leg of the PV array that goes through the 2-pole breaker (yes, its a 2-pole breaker). hence making the breaker over-sized. and I intentionally did it like that because I want the breaker to function mainly as an Isolation breaker.
NB: the breaker is rated 100A DC

cheers

BetaTechnicians:

Real Nice Design, would save your template .

Which meters are those two?
How/do you isolate the PV without glitch under load/during sunlight? as you stated near the changeover.

Hi BT,

thanks ...and please,feel free

those are DC voltmeters... each battery bank has its own, hence two meters.

There is a PV Array Isolation circuit breaker inside the Plastic breaker box (white in color). it has to be turned off before unloading the CC (during switch over)

cheers

lexi28:


hi, love your wiring and setup. those adhesive stickers, how did you get them? any hints?
thanks

Hi Lexi,

thanks for the compliment.

the sticker is not a rocket science... I simply prepare the writings with my laptop. then I print them and cut them neatly with scissors. #see pic

then I use transparent tape on the front and trim off the excess tape, then I apply the UHU Adhesive glue on the other side before placing it on the desired spot. the tape is to protect the tags

for the bigger ones, I laminate them, trim them before using the adhesive to glue them.

Cheers

harizonal123:

Guy u too organise die. This is one of the neatest connections I have seen. The whole arrangement just look sweet & this is exactly what I intend doing.It is more like a power grid control station. Thumbs up

thanks very much Harizonal...

olopan:
Nice setup ...... looks yummy!

thanks Olopan...

olaolu11:



. I am currently doing a design to enable both charge and supply separately with the aid of double change over.

Pls show pix of the double change over. I am interested

hi Ola,

you're looking at something like this... the two separate battery banks can be independently charged with inverter or solar...

please, ensure you use a quality Change over switch. I used 100A A&Bt brand ... or you look for MG brand. confirm the thickness of the current-carrying part...

Hope this helps

cheers

ceaser:


White copper ke?! I have not heard copper being white unless if electroplated with white metal o, in which case the wire inside is still copper and retains the Cu colour. Copper has its peculiar colour and taste (when you suffer from metronidazole overdose, you get the sensation of copper taste on your tongue).

The gurus in the house can give more insights.

lollzz... the "white" copper is actually Tinned Copper (attached pic)

pure copper, overtime, is suceptible to corrosion, especially around wet environments. Hence they are usually coated with Tin, which is less affected. The Tin helps extend the life of the cable

when you scratch a tinned copper cable, you'll see the pure copper color. some panels like Canadian and flames comes with tinned copper cable.

however, note that aluminum cables also has that tin-like color. But what those Alaba bad eggs do is that they will even use copper color to coat an aluminum cable. Some fake Alaba panels comes with Aluminum cable coated with copper color.

Generally, I discovered that aluminum flex cable breaks easily. Using ordinary hand to try and twist the cable (like, try to join it with a copper cable), it'll just be breaking like what I dont know....imagine when you try to use plier....hmmmmm.
and when you scratch a copper-coated aluminum cable, you'll see the real aluminum color

Cheers

durumibaka:
Gud day, pls i need a clarification on this, 20a 12v/24v charge controller and 300w×3 mono crystaline solar panel, can it work together..

That's a total of 900W...

with MPPT SCC--- on a 12V system, you're looking at 75A charging current; while on a 24V system, you're looking at 37A.
(Dont know how many batteries and their ratings)

so, you need 80A MPPT SCC for a 12V system and 40A SCC for a 24V system.


however, for a PWM SCC, you can only use the 300W panels on a 24V system (I still sit to be corrected). 300W panels usually have their Maximum Power Voltage, Vimp, in the range of 30-40V (Canadian 300W is 32.5V while Flames 300W is 37.98V) and PWM CCs dont do DC-DC conversion.

so on a 24V system, with PWM SCC, you need 30/40A SCC

cheers

NiyiOmoIyunade:
So sorry for the damage.

The relay is supposed to be rated around 25-30A. Were you switching loads larger than the rating? Perhaps with grid available you were running the inverter at or above its rated capacity? This is a common failure mode when grid supply goes off while heavy loads are being powered and the relay attempts to switch a load larger than it was designed for - especially inductive loads.

As you have the inverter open can you confirm that the relay contacts are actually welded/arced shut?

I think it should be a fairly cheap replacement to source a chinco replacement relay - depending on the ratings, you can see it in Arena Oshodi for like 3k to 6k.

I am happy you were courageous enough to open up a premium inverter - means you are a savvy professional or an accomplished DIYer.

This just reinforces my conviction that anything even premium inverters can fail! As I recently acquired a Victron Quattro 8kva. I will be sure to baby the unit and not subject it to too large a load - I hate to open up any personal use equipment and will want to sell it off if I ever have to repair it.

yeah, the relay is rated 25A.... before the fault, noticed the inverter pulls more than 50A before coming down to about 9A.

looks like the installer didnt do proper load segregation, since he told me he doesn't use it for heavy loads. so I believe the relay has been taking heavy hits and finally decided to manifest.

couldn't actually confirm if its welded . looks neat from the top. but I tried to power it with the inverter open and the relay having received some technical beatings and it tried switching before giving up again

regards finding a replacement, the way that relay looks, I dont think it can be replaced ooo... Magnum didnt solder their components; looks like they machined (or integrated) them onto the board...lollzzz

na to change the board be the option now...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
From the user manual - see bolded at bottom for fix

Since you have tried a soft reset, also perform a hard reset per manual's instructions and see if that solves the issues.

If above fails then isolate the relay after disconnecting all power in and out of inverter and tap the relay gently then with medium force to release the stuck contacts.

If the gentle touch does not work, I have heard applying solid mechanical action (hard strike to the relay) of the Russian variety may 'unstick' the relay contacts

STUCK RELAY

Stuck Relay appears on the LCD.The FAULT (red) LED is on. The PWR (green), CHG (green), and INV(green) LEDs are off

5-29, Stuck Relay Fault [Stuck Relay]– This fault message displays when the inverter is"inverting", but the internal AC pass-thru relay that should be open while inverting, is closed


5.0 Operation Remedy: The AC pass-thru relay is most likely stuck. A relay usually sticks because of damage to the contacts from trying to handle currents greater than they are rated for. This is usually caused by not protecting the relay from handling high continuous currents, or by switching high current inductive loads. The internal relay contacts are rated to handle 30 amps AC continuously and should be protectedwith a breaker sized no larger than 30 amps. If you are connected to an AC source (grid or generator) and running large inductive loads (i.e., pumps, motors, etc.,) on the inverter output, turn those particular loads off prior to removing the AC input source.


This fault requires an inverter or power reset (Sections 6.2 & 6.3) to clear.

so the hard reset didnt work either...

located the relay... have hit it as far as I can, to avoid cracking the case.... still STUCK

Guess, it has really gone bad

NiyiOmoIyunade:
From the user manual - see bolded at bottom for fix

Since you have tried a soft reset, also perform a hard reset per manual's instructions and see if that solves the issues.

If above fails then isolate the relay after disconnecting all power in and out of inverter and tap the relay gently then with medium force to release the stuck contacts.

If the gentle touch does not work, I have heard applying solid mechanical action (hard strike to the relay) of the Russian variety may 'unstick' the relay contacts

STUCK RELAY

Stuck Relay appears on the LCD.The FAULT (red) LED is on. The PWR (green), CHG (green), and INV(green) LEDs are off

5-29, Stuck Relay Fault [Stuck Relay]– This fault message displays when the inverter is"inverting", but the internal AC pass-thru relay that should be open while inverting, is closed


5.0 Operation Remedy: The AC pass-thru relay is most likely stuck. A relay usually sticks because of damage to the contacts from trying to handle currents greater than they are rated for. This is usually caused by not protecting the relay from handling high continuous currents, or by switching high current inductive loads. The internal relay contacts are rated to handle 30 amps AC continuously and should be protectedwith a breaker sized no larger than 30 amps. If you are connected to an AC source (grid or generator) and running large inductive loads (i.e., pumps, motors, etc.,) on the inverter output, turn those particular loads off prior to removing the AC input source.


This fault requires an inverter or power reset (Sections 6.2 & 6.3) to clear.

OK boss... will try the hard reset. if it doesn't work, I'll dismount the inverter and open it up for the "hammerings"

thanks very much... much appreciation

please, anybody have idea what this fault means..?

...hope its not a board issue

NB: I've carried out the soft reset and its still repeating

thanks

DUNKA:
which one is the genuine battery?

bros, honestly speaking i cant really tell... I've only installed the brown carton version three times and the white carton version countless times..

apart from the dimension difference I stated earlier, both actually have same performance. STRICTLY MY PERSONAL VIEW

a year ago, a major supplier told me both are from same manufacturer (Amara Raja).

something struck my mind... Mopower inverters and Sukam inverters looks exactly same in every ramification. if you open a Mopower inverter, the major components has Sukam label on them. But it still bears Mopower on the body... this, to an extent, proves that Sukam and Mopower are manufactured by same company but for different trading companies.

Now the question I've asked myself is if someone actually wants to fake the Quanta battery, why not still maintain the white carton.? why make theirs brown and raise suspicion? what does it take to maintain same dimension? when they started faking Luminous battery (the yellow version), they faked everything including the carton.... and also with Ritar e.t.c

The real manufacturers of Quanta Batteries are Amara Raja, and I'm yet to see them deny manufacturing both versions.

I get both versions from same supplier. in as much as there's about 10k difference between them (115k/113k for brown and 125k/123k for white @mini and bulk purchase) doesn't make one fake and the other genuine.
There is that possibility that both are actually manufactured by Amara Raja; I still sit to be corrected (lol)... afterall, peak milk now have two versions: the one everyone knows and the one that has back that is kinda blue and they say its low fat... hehehe


Summary: the white Carton Quanta is the version almost everyone is familiar with. can't tell if the brown carton version is fake or not; or whether both are from same manufacturer but for different trading coys

both have EXACT performance (PERSONAL REVIEW). also they have same study and excellent built with same very thick washers ....... except their dimension, which you can really miss; unless you're the type that really pay attention to details

Cheers

The Brown carton Quanta has the size of a conventional 12V/200Ah battery....

The White carton Quanta is slimmer and longer... it wouldn't fit into a rack for a conventional battery (or that of the brown carton Quanta)

harizonal123:

Is that a name of a battery product or a place?

.. are you sure you're a Nigerian? lol

Alaba is a place in Lagos; where you can even see a re-branded version of yourself. Lwkmd4h.

Anyways, for 90k, look for Mpower Battery. it's a Chinese battery, but a good one. They're usually my low-end battery spec (my high end being Exide, Quanta)

I have about 5 clients using Mpower for 2 years plus now and another 2 going for 2years

Try and get it from Airwaves Ltd; they're the main distributors I know.

Another good low-budget option for you is Safepower (Indian) @103k

Cheers

HeartforGod:
Hi gurus in the house,

Please, someone help do analysis for me on the much talked about lithium phosphate ion battery against lead acid battery (AGM).


I have plans for a 600AH lead acid battery at 24V (cost = 640k).
So, using these factors (especially cost) to get equivalent for lithium phosphate battery, analyse to help me make an informed decision.

Thanks in advance

hello HeartforGod,

kindly and patiently go back some pages...

it has been theoretically/mathematically and practically analysed.

like, the comparison has been broken to pieces. just go back and digest.

cheers

mikylon:
my gurus in the house, I have this battery equalizer hooked up to my battery setup, but the volts are not uniform all through the 4 batt, about 0.1v diff. Is my battery equalizer doing what it should do? mind u I installed the equalizer 3 mont
hs after I started using my solar-inverter

yes.... the 0.1 deviation is very OK.

also, if you measure the batteries from their terminals with a very good DMM (e.g, fluke) you might realise that all are actually reading the same.

still, the 0.1 deviation is ok

cheers

babniyen:
Hello house: Preowned 250 Watt POLY Solar panels from a project that lost funding available.
Price: N 30, 000.
Whatsapp: 08158402376

what's the panel brand...? or better yet, kindly snap the nameplate and update... thanks

and what's your location?

Cheers

octavian:

I spoke with him (kiekie1)on Wednesday agreed on pricing and transferred the cash to him by Thursday, he came to my house to deliver the products yesterday morning and by this noon the installation was complete. I never met him, just read reviews about him online and trusted my instinct. He is a wonderful guy, kudos baba

lolz... I wonder why it's only when people "do transaction" with this guy that they suddenly appear here to drop an unsolicited review.

hmmmmmm.... issssssooook

Desanta:

Thanks.
Please is there a maximum load or safe load I should not go beyond?
Sorry for all the questions. Just want to be sure of what I am doing.

you shouldn't load it beyond 80% of its nameplate rating.

so, you can load the inverter up to 80% of its capacity (KVA rating). though, you shouldn't do it often

Desanta:
Please,
When my inverter shows o/p load = 07.8%,
What does this mean?

O/P means Output...

so, it means that your output load (load on the inverter during inverting) is 7.8% of the inverter capacity.

Desanta:
Hood day all.
I want to know how to calculate the amount of wattage or energy left in my battery from the inverter especially at night when the charge controller is off.
I see things like battery voltage is 39.9 Hz on the inverter and I don't understand.
Thanks.

Hood day too sir... �

battery voltage, 39.9 Hz...

Battery voltage is measured in Volts (V).
So check and confirm again.

if your inverter has a display, check for the reading that has "V" . if it's a 48V system, you'll see something within the range of 42-57V

NB: Mains voltage and inverter output voltage also are measured in Volts... but at 150-230V range

CNN80:

I'm looking to conserve power not consume it so the plan is to be as efficient as possible. Which is why I was hoping for an inverter or controller that will send power to the entire house when solar or grid energy is detected and power to a few designated power points when battery energy is detected.

What is special about the Quanta battery? What kind is it? Have you used it before?

Do you have any recommendations for inverters?

let me see if I can try small...

normally, the way the wiring goes is such that you do an audit. find out the exact loads you want the inverter (battery) to carry. then trace and isolate those loads from the house main Electrical DB. route them to a separate small DB and tie them to the inverter output.

what happens is that when there is grid supply, all your house loads will have supply. in the absence of grid supply, your inverter (through your battery) can now power only those selected loads

Quanta battery is a very good battery... it's AGM and made in Indian.

however, if you're going for Quanta battery, make sure your inverter and Solar Charge Controller has a provision for you to manually change the charge profile (especially the voltage settings). Quanta battery is selective when it comes to their Boost voltage (13.8-14.0V), and Float voltage (13.5V).

if you can, you can go for Magnum USA inverter

finally, there are 3-6W energy bulbs that are very bright. even those 10W are still big... cheers

over to the gurus

d

3

earthrealm:


errrrm think, he needs to state his load, and probablly charging pattern/frequency etc. and he said 6months..not 2months....


@kiekie..savage you are!!.. posting your WE BUY DEAD BATTS ADVERTS immediately,..lolz..guess na coincidence,

Good point...

before they start crucifying the supplier on warranty issue or blaming the manufacturer, I guess the load on the system should be stated.

as far as I know, deeply discharging a lead-acid battery bank (whether VRLA, AGM, or Gel) usually shows this kind of symptoms; one battery syncing out (I think, usually the most negative battery) and subsequently causing an overall drop in the run hour of the system

so, the question is : what is the load on the system between sunset and the following morning?
and of course, in addition to other probable causes as has been stated.

cheers

sharks776:
Please what should be the charging set points for Fangpusun 60a (outback clone). I have 2 quanta 200ah batteries in 24v and 6x200w panel connected in 3s2p.

see the attached

cheers

Braaad:
Hello solar gurus in the house. I've been a silent follower of this thread. I recently have a concern about the poor performance of kung long batteries in an installation in less than 6 months, I want to know if anyone has a similar experience with the brand.

The installation has 4 pcs of battery connected in a 48v setup.

The inverter used is ipower plus 5kva MKS axpert inverter.

The system has 3000w of solar installed (200w ×15) connected in 3×5 set up.

Average load on the system is 650w

Battery backup for night time use was up to 6hrs initially, but now barely last up to two hours.

I've tested the batteries, they seem OK, (just low on charge).

But after charging for approximately 15hours, same issues noticed.

Has anyone had similar experience with this brand or any brand??

What can be done to salvage the situation??

PS: there is no stabilizer used in the set up, cos power supply is fairly stable.

Any/all contributions and suggestions will be highly appreciated

well, inverter inefficiency and/or battery ineffectiveness has been pointed out.

however, my small little personal observation is just the design. 3000W PV array on just 200Ah Battery Bank
that's about 62A (3000W/48V) hitting the battery during bulk charging. unless you're running freezers and ACs during the day.... which is even unlikely since it's just one bank.

mank1234:
Available for sale at the following offer price:

Morningstar Tristar 60A MPPT charge controller @ N200,000

2 " 325W solar panel at N55,000 each

Victron battery balancer at N25,000

Current location: Eket

your digit?

earthrealm:


wch balancer is that...HAO2? if yes..where did you buy it from? aliexpress?

yes, it's HA02.... bought it from a dealer here at my base (Akwa Ibom State)