spartacus11:


Please which fridge is this Model number and the brand

Hi Spartacus11,
It's LG with Model number GL_*201***B

See attached... Cheers

earthrealm:


i had the same challenge, back then JUO posted an LG inverter fridge, that he claimed consumed 30w, i traced the fridge, and found it, the energy nameplate on it is 110w abi 100w, got me confused. on LG website, the put 265kwh/yr as the annual consumption of the fridge, which if you divide by 365, you would get about 30w. the theory i think is that after working for some time, say 24hrs..i believe the energy consumption gradually drops to below 30w, Juo confirmed that his fridge records zero watts for some periods, so to enjoy these inverter appliances, i have deduced, its best they are powered 247, thats when you get the max energy savings...

the haier inverter fridge, is it frost free?
i am interested on this your fridge waka, pls keep us updated, jumia now has 13amps watt meter for 6500naira, incase you are in need of one

You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON

mank1234:
It's a power source automatic changeover switch. Switches to reserve power if mains power fails and returns automatically to mains when it returns. However, it doesn't have capability to put off the reserve power (generator)

There's a newer version of it that can be placed directly in a distribution box. It's about 6 times 18mm, meaning it takes same ways as 6 single pole MCBs. The newer version has very improved transfer time just like an inverter.
New version here:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BUOPv4

Old version here:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BP9r14

Boss, you talk all these plenty things finish and nothing like, "how many pieces do you want?"... No be link I de find now, na waybill number... Lolz

earthrealm:


You will know, If/when you need it as well...

In the words of my mentor Jim Rohn..
When the student is ready, the teacher appears..

The person that invented that device needs 1 bottle of origin served to him daily by a pretty damsel

..

That device de solve world problem in Solar energy world...

earthrealm:


Hahahahahaha.
Exact same sh,it, i need as well.
Seems we are thinking the same tots.
The device upthere with a timer switch will solve the problem i had been thinking of for months.

I ordered via ali early month, after asking here and no one stocked it, will see when it arrives

Lolz...

Please, buy for me na (in our Nigerian girls voice)...

Please, who has this ATS and a digital timer for sale?? Needed ASAP ...

0-8-1-8-2-6-2-5-2-1-3

Blueprintz:
Please Help me oh

Hi Blueprintz,

I believe earthrealm has done justice to your enquiry...
My little addition though is that you can get a DC Voltmeter for your battery. You can get 4 pcs, connect 1 for each of the batteries and then connect one to monitor the full battery bank. Then, you need to have a "Voltage against State of charge" chart. This chart helps you to know when you're running the battery down to a certain level.
If when you're about to sleep, you discover that your battery voltage is already down to, say, 60% (based on the chart), depending on the load, you can decide to shut down the Inverter so it doesn't drain within the night or you reduce load appropriately and ensure the loads left ON won't drain the battery during the night.

For the Balancer, I believe the HA02 model can still serve. Have 3 sets of the cable appropriately connected to the 3 batteries, while you safely insulate the last set. DON'T leave the last unused set exposed. I don't how long you've used your batteries, but Battery Balancers should be connected at the initial stage of the battery installation...

Cheers

Expertt:
I appreciate everyone for your nice contributions, I was actually thinking of paralleling some of these hybrid Inverters that has battery less mod, like once advertised by MPPSolar whether it could require less number of batteries since load will only be used during the day when sun is up. So I think I should continue on Gen for now maybe in future I will have what it takes to go completely solar. Thank you very much guys.

Should have actually made this intention known, instead of just saying you want to know the number of batteries and panels to run 12kw loads for 12hrs...

That setup is very possible where you'll only have need for minimal number of batteries. There's a combo of Victron Quattro and Fronius that'll give you that perfect setup. For a very proper design and cost, you might want to contact Solar Depot.

MPPSolar users can also help you out if the system can adequately do that..

Cheers

mank1234:


Jesu Christy!
And he should be prepared to change the batteries regularly due to unbalanced issues.

Well, it's just 33 strings... If they're paralleled through a bus bar, he should be fine. And maybe also use Balancer.... Just 33 balancers

eleojo23:


You even started the savagery politely...

Lolzz

Expertt:
I already have 25kva diseal Gen, am planning for 20kva Inverter but I need to know the number of 200ah batteries and 300w mono solar panels that will be able to run 12kw load for at least 12hrs

Hi Expertt,

You need only 132 units of 200Ah Lead-Acid Battery to give you 6600Ah Battery Bank (@48V and 50% DoD) that you need...

You also need 160 units of 300W PV Modules to give you 48KW PV Array that you need...

You also want to know how many Charge Controllers you'll need

Cheers

Leezah:
Please I need to do a solar inverter. I had like recommendation.

Thanks in advance.

Fronius...

You're welcome

ceaser:


This una new talk about electrocution is beginning to make my heart go giz giz already. And here I am planning to jump 24v system to go 48v as I plan to connect more appliances.

However it seems you have missed the dimeanatjon between DC and AC in terms of point of potential electrocution. A voltage of 300 from DC source will not electrocute if it touches the naked hands, but 250v from an AC source will not be so forgiving. This is because of the alternating nature which increases its potential to cause cardiac arrhythmias culminating in cardiac arrest. Is the same that's responsible for the burns.

A tazer can give a momentary voltage as high as 2500v, but it does not usually kill because it's not from an AC source. It only causes a jolt which is limited to the level of activity at the peripheral muscles. Although that's not to say it isn't a potential danger in those with preexisting cardiac conditions or in those with cardiac pacemakers.

Electroshock therapy to the head (applied in mental health) delivers high voltage to the head that the px is actually physically jolted right from the head. It is a very discomforting therapy even for me as an observer or prescriber, but it doesn't kill 'em.

I think the potential for fire from sparks when shorted is fairly the same with the two sources. So I think we speak of three potential hazards depending on scenarios of AC or DC - the shock/jolt, the burns and the spark which may cause fire.

There's actually nothing to be afraid of. It's all about working safe!

But, biko, 300VDC can send you to your ancestors ooo.. Lolz.

What you should understand is that you can only get a shock or electrocuted when there's a complete path, or a complete circuit. As a matter of fact, 11,000V cannot also electrocute you. But then, it depends on the scenario.
If you're holding on to only the "live" of a 250V or 11KV AC source, you won't get shock, as long as you're not having any form of contact with ground. Wear a properly insulated boot or stand on a dry wooden ladder and touch only the "live" of a 500V AC source, and nothing would happen. But if you're standing barefoot on the ground, you'll likely meet your ancestors. If, while Insulated from the ground, you have contact with both live and neutral, sorry ooo...

If, while on the ladder, you hold the +ve and - ve of a PV string of upto even 100V DC, you will get shock. If both ends are bare and touching the roof and you have a contact with the roof, there would be spark and of course, with shock.

This is where the safety aspect comes in. Even if your PV array voltage is going to be up to 500VDC, make sure that both ends of the array or any string are never bare at the same time.

Always connect your PV array cable to the DC isolation breaker first and ensure the breaker is Off. Connecting the PV array cable to the PV array should be last.

Always think safety and you'll be fine!

adrusa:


I disagree Sir. The higher voltage CC are for higher nominal voltage systems. There are inverters with nominal voltages of 90v and 180v. These are the ones for which high voltage CC are made and they are expensive because of the electronics needed to handle that high voltage, not so that someone with 12v system can run PV voltage of 250v.

And as to my friend, yes it is current, and VOLTAGE. Voltage drives high current. The higher the voltage, the higher the current it is able to drive through any system when resistance is constant. V=IR. So, for a human being or anything at all, 100V is more dangerous than 10V. Yes, it is the current that kills, but it is the high voltage that drives the current.

Finally, I have once been told that there is an MPPT sweet spot for your panel voltage vs your system voltage, I really can not lay my hands on the details now. But I remember that while high voltage may reduce your installation cost, two much of a difference between your PV Voltage and your battery voltage put extra stress on the conversion electronics in your charge controller. Don't forget that an MPPT CC is basically a DC-DC converter and the higher the difference between the voltages the higher the work needed to be done by the converter and the greater the loss and the likelihood to have a fault.

But again, you must maintain a balance between safety and cost. Unless my inverter system requires it, I will not do high voltage.

Hi Adrusa,

Just to input my little opinion. First of all, I understand your point, especially regards to the safety aspect. But then, that's why you have to understand what you're doing before venturing into it.

However, permit me to disagree with the bolded. CCs with high PV input voltage are NOT designed for higher nominal voltage systems, as you stipulated.
Victron has a 250V/100A CC but yet it's for a 12-48V systems Only. Same as Magnum PT-100 that has its maximum Input voltage as 240V, yet it's only for 12/24/48V systems... These CCs, aforementioned, are never designed to be used in a 96V system talk less of 120V or 180V systems... They're strictly for 12V, 24V, 48V system voltages

And yes, all CCs has an efficiency curve that tells you at what PV array input voltage (Vmp and not Voc) the CC would give you the best conversion.
Most MPPTs have their best conversion efficiency when the PV array Vmp is around twice the system nominal voltage. At 48V system voltage, most CCs converts best when PV array Vmp is around 70-95V. Some still functions best when the PV array Vmp is trice the system voltage

If you're Installing Magnum PT-100 for a 48V system, your PV array Vmp should be kept above 100V. Your system would experience serious power loss when the PV array Vmp goes down to around 78V. Yet, that 78V PV array Vmp is the best for some MPPT CCs @48V system voltage ... That is why it's very important to read manuals that comes with these devices.

Bros, you have to work with the manual. If the device is designed to function at a certain high voltage, who are you to install otherwise, unless you don't want the best out of that CC. You don't have to be concerned about overworking the electronics; you shouldn't think for them and you shouldn't help them. As long as you're within the acceptable range (without actually hitting the limits), those components are very happy.

Finally, to work around these voltages one has to be very careful. Even under DIY, you must be safety conscious; otherwise, get a pro. A lot has already been said regards that.

Cheers

Biko, mbok, enough of all the ASUU, IPPIS and GIFMIS.... Before PENGASSAN and NUPENG would start their own. Dah!!!

All posts here should be Solarised ... Even if it's the one of Blueberry, Ecomms and Pi.... Odiegwu!!!

jmaine:


I guess the Poly version will still give same accolades as well?

Yes sir... Whether Mono or Poly, Canadian panel performs optimally..

Cheers

terrymason:
What's you take on felicity Panels.... mcTrinity?

Hi Terrymason,

I haven't actually installed felicity; so can't really give any review on it.

Cheers

YoungBrain:


Good day to everyone

The rains are here once more.
Please I need honest opinions on which solar panel brand(s) are best to get a good harvest
in this weather...

Thanks in advance

Go for Canadian Solar... And you would never walk alone

Note I just gave a direct answer to a direct question.
I want to assume you already have a designed system, about to be executed. Before you'll go and carry two Canadian panels and put on a PWM CC to charge 8 batteries

harizonal123:

Yes it depends on your system but when it comes to lasting hours/ duration parallel beats series batteries configuration. The advantage of series over parallel is that it is used for operating heavy machineries. Yet to find a write up where series connection increases duration

Odiegwu! See the way you're stating it with every confidence... Lolz.

However, a 12V system with two 12V/200Ah batteries connected in parallel has a battery bank of 400Ah... But then, the storage capacity of the battery bank is 4.8KWh (12V x 400Ah)

Now, a 24V system with two 12V/200Ah batteries connected in series has a battery bank of 200Ah... But again, the storage capacity is also 4.8KWh (24V x 200Ah).

THEORETICALLY speaking, if you subject both systems to the same load, the usage time would be same....
>>>Let's assume a 200W load, and neglecting loses and inefficiencies...

For the 12V/400Ah system, current drawn is 17A (200W/12V)
Usage time would be 23hrs (400Ah/17A)...

For the 24V/200Ah system, current drawn is 9A (200W/24V)
Usage time would be 23hrs (200Ah/9A)

....all answers are approximated

PRACTICALLY, the 24V/200Ah series-connected system would last more (in terms of duration) than the 12V/400Ah parallel-connected system due to less conversion loses in the 24V system.

In Summary, using a 12V/200Ah Battery as a case sturdy:
*a 12V/400Ah parallel system has the same storage capacity as a 24V/200Ah series system, but the 24V system is more efficient and would have longer usage time
*a 24V/400Ah series/parallel system has the same storage capacity as a 48V/200Ah series system, but the 48V system is more efficient

The higher the voltage system, the lower the conversion loses, the more panels that can be used, and also the better you can use heavy loads.

Hope you now have your writeup..

Cheers

tsmall:


Will you consider a fairly used PT 100?

How fairly used? Like, how long and price?

0/8/1/8/2/6/2/5/2/1/ 3

Teewhy2:
House,
Does it have to be a DC breaker that has to be between the PV and CC or can someone use an AC breaker in between.
My CC is rated PV 150 volts and 70 amps, what size of breaker can I introduce between the PV and CC. In case there is lighting during rain will the breaker protect the CC by tripping off.

Never ever use an AC breaker in a DC circuit.
Don't even allow it to cross your mind.


Then search for "Magnum PT-100 Manual" and download it; it's free. That manual explains everything explainable regards to adequately sizing of both conductor and the OCPD; with detailed examples sef. All explanations done according to NEC standard. The manual can be an adequate guide for you.

Cheers

terrymason:
Have seen in various videos and setup where breakers/Fuse are put between panels and charger controller (Which is highly compulsory), but breakers in between batteries and charger controller are scary to me. Let say theirs a surge and the breaker between your battery and Cc tripped off and the one between the panel and CC is still on, what do you think will be the outcome of the CC in use.. ?

What's your input DIY Guru's, newbie and the house....

There have been some answers and input to this, however, I'll state my personal opinion.

Having a means of protection/isolation is very good for both sides (PV Array to CC and Cc-to-Battery)

There shouldn't actually be anything scary about any of them as long as you properly size them, and use a good quality and appropriate breaker.

Now what I personally do is that I size my PV-to-CC breaker very well to be able to provide both protection and isolation.

For the CC-to-Batt own, I usually intentionally oversize it (which is against the code). For example, if I'm expecting up to 60A current from the CC to battery, I can use a 2-pole 100A DC breaker and split the cable into two at the breaker terminals; so that the total current is split between the two poles of the breaker... That gives me peace of mind. In that case, that breaker is mostly there for isolation purpose, and not necessarily for protection; there's hardly a fault at that downstream side. Problem is usually at the upstream with sun flare, surge and stuffs that could go wrong that side.

Why I don't like doing direct CC-to-Batt connection, without any breaker, is for two reasons
1) not all CCs like momentary sparks; those sparks generated when you're doing the connection and you couldn't put the cable lug once. With those shakes comes sparks that doesn't go well with CCs. With breaker in between, you can slip over as many times you want without any spark. At the end, you confirm your connection and power up

2) there are times that some CCs would decide to misbehave (freeze, hang etc) and the only way to resolve it is to carryout a hard reset, which involves disconnecting the battery from the CC and connecting it back. With a breaker, I normally just switch off the breaker and then switch it back On and issue clears.
Without breaker, it would involve having to be tampering with the battery terminal by connecting and disconnecting upanda. Or if the connection goes through a busbar, you'll have to go through that process and in the process too, creating an unnecessary sparks.

But then, it's strictly by choice... But having a single 2-pole breaker to isolate both sides is even never an option for me... Because if you're using an MPPT, the upstream side would definitely not be appropriately sized.

But again, it's choice.

ojeysky:


Breakers are mainly for equipment protection(it's possible for the wire to still be okay while the equipment is toast), what has been stated could work if the ratings of your cc to battery and panel to cc are similar. For instance my GK is 450v/18A max for PV to CC side but Inverter to battery side would be max 31v/60A (the current limit is due to BMS installed in my battery).

I personally don't have a breaker between inverter and battery but it will be good to add it, just that am not sure a single breaker will sufficiently serve both ends, you may have to get 2 breakers.

However the gurus may know better

I guess I'll agree with Terrymason...

Normally, when you know what current an appliance would draw, you first determine the appropriate cable that would safely carry that current, taking into consideration the ambient temperature. After that, you determine the size of OCPD to protect that cable.
Remember that one breaker can be used to protect multiple appliances (except few loads that must have their own dedicated OCPD).... So, how come? How are you going to rate a breaker to be able to protect more than one appliance, say, TV, fans, lights e.t.c... It is possible because those appliances are served by one branch circuit which has just set of conductor. The job of that breaker is to make sure that the branch circuit conductor, serving those appliances, does not carry a current above its rating to PREVENT FIRE. However, the design would be such that any fault on any of the appliance should be able to trip the breaker.

Bottom line is that, if you really want to follow the NEC standard, your breaker should be designed based on the conductor size. 1) know the current to be drawn (2) know the appropriate size of cable to use (3) size your breaker to protect the conduct from excess current flow

But of course, we don't really follow code here.

NB: you can try and look for the NEC... Go through it and it would explain everything better


Cheers

unicmarket:




Finally, every battery as a discharge rate that should come with it; such as 200A at 10hr or 20hr, meaning this battery is safe in discharging max 20A in the space of 1 hr for the 10h rating, so certainly the guidelines of battery discharge rate should be followed as specified for that battery.

For technical and educational purposes, it’s accurate and valid. The calculator is to ease calculation and not too exclude professional advice
Thanks bro

Exactly what folks usually don't consider regards to battery... The DISCHARGE RATE!!! very key

Valto:
6pcs of fairly used very clean 200w mono solar panels for sale @ affordable price. location yenagoa bayelsa state. can be waybilled to anywhere. whatsapp me 080-8541-5985

1) how long were they used?
2) reason for sale?
3) how were they mounted... Standalone or roof? If roof mount, were they mounted directly on the roof or on a rail?
4) price?

ojeysky:


The 2 in bold are in contrast o, one day I will have that much bank to blow AC overnight

Lollzz... You forgot he stated "at almost 6 months interval"...
Biko, how do you buy Lithium battery package at intervals? Buy the battery modules, then later the box, and later the BMS.... Lwkmd!!!

Saipro:

Available

Call/WhatsApp O8O396l2l47

You're not responding to your chat o

Saipro:
Brand new
- open-box Victron Quattro 48/5000/70 (5kVA 48VDC) - ₦780,000 4 units left
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - ₦60,000
- Victron BMV 702 (with shunt and cables) - ₦100,000 final one left
- Fangpusun 100/50 MPPT charge controller - ₦46,000
- Fangpusun display - ₦20,000
- EpSolar (Epever) 150V 60A MPPT - ₦130,000
- Midnite SPD 300V AC/DC surge protector - ₦47,000
- Midnite MNPV8HV-DISCO 4X disconnect/combiner box - ₦360,000

Used for less than year (then retired) but in excellent cosmetic & working order
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - ₦40,000
- CyberPower CPS3500Pro inverter (3.5kVA 24VDC) - ₦100,000

Used a bit longer but in excellent working condition
- Victron MultiPlus 48/5000/70 inverter (5kVA 48VDC grid input not working) - ₦250,000
- my faithful PowerStar 3kW inverter; modified to enable the fan come on at lower temperatures - ₦80,000

I'll need the Midnite MNSPD 300 AC

kiekie1:
Happy client ~ Happy us !

Feel free to always reach us,


DONT MISS THIS GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY!!


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4) USA Trojan 225a flooded battery ... 140,000

5) USA Trojan 205a AGM battery ... 177,000

6) USA Trojan 315a 6v AGM Battey ... 155,000

7) Axpert 3kva 24v pure sinewave solar inverter with 80a combined total charging current...100,000

Schneider sw 4048 inverter ...450,000

9) Schneider sw 8548 inverter ...1m

10) Morningstar 45a mppt ...... 160,000

11) Pro solar roof mount and accessories which can take up to 4 units of 370w panels ..... N35,000

12) Improvised solar mount kit .... N15,000

13) Monbat 12v 200a fta battery ....140,000 "offloading soon"

14) Quanta 12v 200a ... 120,000 (brown carton non export high quality with 64kg weight)

15) Morningstar 60a mppt .... 210,000

16) Flames 270w mono panel .. 32,000

17) Victron smartsolar 250/100 mppt ...297,000

DON'T MISS THIS GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY!


NOTE: We also supply products >> outback,victron, Canadian solar , Felicity,flames,foresolar, luminous,magnum,era,ja solar,amerisolar,jinko,solarworld,SMA,keye,solar water heaters etc... feel free to contact us as usual !


Contact,
Smartcell global services
081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

At bolded... Do you have the 150V/100A.?
And do you have Midnite MNSPD 300 AC?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
There is no major down side to using a Victron CC with a Magnum inverter. Both are excellent products with solid engineering and design behind them.

The only issue is that your integration can become very difficult e.g if you want to deploy a system monitoring or management solution - Victron GX products only support Victron equipment and a limited set of ancillaries and same is the case for Magnum.

You may be forced to use a 3rd party monitoring solution to bring all the elements of your system into one common dashboard.

If you have or plan to use a smart/managed Lithium battery like Pylontech, then careful thought is required how you will integrate the system and exert control of functions and behaviour when you are using different brand inverter and CC.

In the Victron world, a GX device is required when you connect to a smart battery and acts as active controller taking instructions from battery and telling the inverter and CCs what to do. This is the only method of working with smart batteries that Victron supports - so another brand inverter is a NO NO.

However a 3rd party solution like ICC or infact passive settings may be used. Just that system performance, reliability and safety may be jeopardized.

A Quattro has 2 inputs (Mains & Gen) and 2 outputs (Battery Powered & Pass Through). This is about the only notable difference between Quattro and Multiplus. Other than that, both may be used in parallel and split phase scenarios, similar ratings carry thesame load, software settings and hardware capabilities e.g PowerAssist are exactly thesame and none is more rugged than the other.

I have always found it strange that in Nigeria, the Quattro is more popular, very few people sell or use the Multiplus yet the very features that distinguish the Quattro mostly lie unused e.g the dual inputs are neglected in favor of an external transfer switch, the pass through output is left unused e.t.c

Thanks very much Niyi...

Initially the client was thinking of doing Lithium later, as he's actually planning to overhaul his current battery bank (48V 1000Ah of 2V 1000Ah batteries). Told him the best option would be combination of Victron Inverter and Victron CC. But he's not willing to cast away his precious Magnum, which he just bought roughly about 2years ago at more than 1m (the newer magnum version).
After sourcing for Magnum PT-100 and couldn't find, I got in touch with Solar Depot sales rep and explained to her my intention of settling for the Victron CC with the Magnum since there's no PT-100 and she told me I need to use Victron CC with Victron inverter... But I guess, she was just trying to push the available products (all these sales people and their gimmicks, lolz) and that's why I actually wanted to confirm if theirs any major issue using Victron CC with Magnum Inverter.

And by the way, since the client won't be dashing away his Magnum inverter, he won't have any other option than to maintain Lead acid battery.

But if he later change his mind to do away with the Magnum, then I'll get him a Victron Quattro. But for now, he's settling for Victron CC to use with the Magnum, provided no issue.


Having said that, I need the following, if you have them

1) Victron Energy Smartsolar MPPT 100A/250V or 100A/150V - x1
2) Victron Smartsolar pluggable display - x1
3) Midnite Solar MNSPD 300 AC - x1
4) Midnite Solar MNSPD 300 DC - x2
5) Automatic Transfer Switch - x6

Cheers

Good day house...

1) anyone has any technical view as to whether a Victron CC can be used with another type inverter. Have a client that's using Magnum inverter but need solar. Can't find Magnum CC (PT-100); looks like it's outta market. Next option I have is Victron SmartSolar CC, but I don't know if there'll be a downside using the Magnum inverter and Victron CC.

2) anyone here that has Automatic Transfer Switch for sale? I'll need like 4pcs

3) Biko, what's the difference between the Victron Multiplus and the Victron Quattro Inverters?

Thanks

Chai.... Even those that, in the past, mathematically and analytically proved, beyond reasonable doubt, that LeadAcid Battery is preferable HAS now gone Lithium.

Oh father, in this 2020, deliver us from all motivational speakers... It is well oooo