mangolpupa:
Experienced folks in the house, i have a 1.8kwh agm battery (12v) x 6.

From the information gathered, I need a 5kw hybrid system (i have not made up my mind yet, but considering felicity hybrid, sorotec, growatt for now). the inverter are detailed as 48v. Does it mean that the battery will have to configured to output 48v (?s?p) in other to function.

What are the implications of this configuration and inverter spec on feature solar panel purchase.

Hi mango,
Kindly note that you can't connect 6 number of 12V batteries in a 48V configuration.

Depending on your load, either you get a 24V inverter and connect the batteries in 2x3 (2S3P) configuration or you add 2 more batteries to make it a total of 8 batteries and then connect for a 48V system in 2x4 configuration.
Cheers

isangjohnson:
1) Epever Mppt CC 150v/60a.
2) Srne Mppt CC 150v/60a,
3) Powmr Mppt CC 190v/60a.
Please, choose the best two for me from above that can either charge lead acid battery or lifepo4 battery.
Thanks

Though not on the list, why not consider Fangpusun sir?

jonescosmos:


Appart from your Batteries being full or floating, You can't compare the efficiency of Independent CCs to Hybrid Inverters.
I had this same problem when my setup was 8x360w (4s2p Wiring) with 60A CC and 3KW Inverter on 4x220Ah FLD Batteries. The Banks never get full all day long and no matter what I switched on, I never got past 1.XXKW production from the PVs according to the display of the CC just like what you have posted here.

When I switched to 5KVA Hybrid with 100A MPPT Built-In Charging at 60A, same 4x220Ah FLDs, rearanged same PVs to 8s, The Inverter sucked almost 2.8KW from the same panels begining from around 10am till 3pm, Batteries gets fully charged before sun down while powering more loads alongside than the prior setup.

Conclusively, I nothiced that due to a broader intelligent programming of priorities on Hybrid Inverters, they tends to query for more power from the PVs than the Batteries. (Output Source Priority Setting: SUB) once you do this, S=Solar, U=Utility, B=Battery. So the SUB order means get every power you need from the Sun first, If Solar Energy is not sufficient or not available, Make it Up from Utility, If both Solar and Utility are not available, take power from the battery banks.

This is one hell of a function that Seperate CCs doesn't have. Because the Inverter sees only Battery Input as power source, it sucks from it, remember that the Battery Banks are closer to the Inverter than the PV and CC in terms of ampearage, the batteries are then always draining.

This whole Hybrid Inverter Intelligence in my own words is revolutionalised in my Deye Inverter which dumps all dependence on Grid/Battery and shifts to Solar inputs for Power, in turns, it sucks everything is can get from the solar before considering Grid or Battery.

In my humble opinion, dump the setup of CC, inverter, Battery and shift to a good Hybrid Inverter, i guarantee you won't regret it. Just make sure that yout setup is properly protected from the storms both from Grid and Solar.

Hi Jonescosmos,
If you can be kind enough to provide the details of your CC... What's the brand of CC?
And while you did a 4S2P on it, did you go through the manual to study the efficiency curve of the CC? Do you actually know that the efficiency of some CCs actually reduces with increase in PV array voltage? (Beyond a certain voltage wrt the system voltage)
These days, people hardly care to study the efficiency curve of their CC manual, they just want to connect panels in series as much as they can, simply because they're using MPPT... Funny!

So many things could've contributed to the poor performance of your CC, including the settings too, but I can categorically tell you that , being a standalone is NOT in the list.

Countless folks are still using using standalone system for years to run ACs, washing machine, heaters! etc, without single issue wrt charging.

So, outrightly blaming your poor yield on the standalone setup, in combo with your "humble opinion" is extremely misleading, worrisome and might be discouraging to quite a number of people... Cheers

Available for quick sales... All brand new

*HA12 Battery Equalizer - 20k

*2 pcs of 100A DC Wattmeter (Energy Meter) with 2pcs of 100A DC shunt and 1pc Current transformer - 10k for both

*20pcs of 16A/10A 80V DC breaker - 1k each or 15k for all

081-826 25213 (Call/SMS/WhatsApp)
Location- Eket, Akwa Ibom State

ceaser:


@bolded is quite untrue.

The MC4s are designed to ensure perfect and fit contact with themselves. They are weatherproof and designed to last the lifetime of the panel. They are also rated to handle the current that flows from the panels. That is why arcing is quite uncommon at their points of contacts when used in installation, whereas the naked wires (after the MC4s are decapitated) will form arcs when huge current passes across the twist junction. This gradually weakens the joint and eventually the joint burns out, disrupting flow from the panels down to the CC, [/b]hence your voltmeter may give correct voltage reading at the termination on the CC, but no current will be detected by the CC. The naked wires too (even with black tape insulation used), are prone to oxidation as they get exposed to the elements.

[b]So if the problem of arcing does not occur soon, oxidation will definitely come along later. The wire develops depositions, the strands become brittle and break off easily. You don't want to have this kind of problem if your panels are roof mounted where they are not within easy reach.

The bolded are so very untrue sir...

We need to learn to buttress some points here without outrightly condemning some methodology here; especially methods that have worked and IS still working.
It is true that using MC4 connector is a very fine and commendable method for joining external cables to panel own.

It is also true that cutting off the panel cable and joining by twisting can cause some or all of your points, buy that's not always the case. You made it sound general. After all, whether you want to believe it or not, people have used MC4 and ended up with more wahala of no-contact or using inferior connector, which also results to some or all your points too.

EVERYTHING depends on quality of material used and skill of the installer!!!

Over 7 years, I've installed so many hundreds of panels and I never, for once, use MC4 connector for any installation. And for 5 years plus, I've ALWAYS handled all connections myself untill I was sure my guys can do it satisfactorily to my standard. As a matter of fact, only one of my guys can do that and he's the only one that can do connection aside myself.

I did installation for one client.. 5 years later, while he was changing his batteries, he decided to add more panels. During the upgrade, the told me he noticed I cut the cables and that he would like me to use MC4 for the upgrade; that he's heard about the concerns you just pointed out. However, I asked him if his panel performance has dropped at any time, and he said no.
However, I took him to the old connections and I gradually removed all the double layer insulations on ALL joints and I asked him to see if there's any form of degradation. Bros, all joints were still much intact. The insulation tape didn't degrade. The cables were still looking good; none was looking dark or corroded.
That's how the man allowed me to do my thing.

Now, I'm going to explain how exactly I do my connections using pictures. Pictures attached were taken 2 years ago, which I use for classroom explanations during my Training sessions. Follow the pictures according to the numbers.

The only thing I want to add is this; most twisted connections have issues because most installers lack the skill and patience of proper cable joining. I've giving opportunity to some electricians and their twisting and insulating mannerism is just very local and road-side.

Referring to the pictures, after twisting together the strands in Pic 4, I first use an "A Grade" flame retardant white insulation tape for the first taping (pic 5) I buy this tape at N750 at ShopRite. Then I use an original Scotch tape to do the 2nd and final taping (pic 6). See pic 8 for the tapes

You can't use all this N50 insulation tape and won't expect it to untape (or unwind) as times go on. And during taping, ensure you tension the tape.

For the exposure, I always ensure I tie cables to the rail, and I ensure all joint sides are directly covered by the panels. Sun or rain, none would near it.

So, guy, there's absolutely nothing wrong with cutting off and joining. As long as you use the proper and professional method or joining. Even the National Electrical Code (NEC) and British Standard Code still have joining methods with different methodology like T-method, Married method etc... People should learn how to properly remove insulation, divide strands, and join cables. Then also, properly insulate them.
And while insulating, give like 1inch gap down before you start insulating and work your way upwards,applying tension and leaving no single air-gap.

Each year I go for maintenance (panel washing ) for clients, I inspect everything.... And always, all is intact and still performing optimally.

Finally, one thing with cutting off the head would help you with is identifying if the panel you bought comes with copper (whether pure copper or tinned copper) or aluminium.
Some years back, one man asked me to help check his set-up installed by somebody. The panels were just over 2years but no protection again. Like, the MPPT was not charging again and he was wondering whether the MPPT was bad. After troubleshooting, I told him that nothing is wrong with the MPPT and the problem could be that something is wrong somewhere with the Array.
Right on the roof, I started disconnecting the panels to test them one after the other. And yes, MC4 was used. First 2 panels were okay but the 3rd one in the string wasn't reading any voltage. Out of 9panels, 6 were not reading.

We now brought down all the panels. I decided to open the black boxes and test directly, bypassing the cables. Mehn, see decay! Cable has decayed at the point it's connected to the diode assembly and has literally decayed off. The cables were ALUMINIUM cables!!!

In summary, we changed all cables and soldered copper cables to the diode assembly. That solves it. However, the man later changed all the panels...

I've also had one client that bought Joysolar panels sometime and asked me to come and install. After cutting the first head and realising the cable was aluminium, we jejely changed all cables on all 12panels. And the annoying part is that, the aluminium is ALWAYS coated with copper colour. Not until you handle it, and then you'll realise it's aluminium.... That's is, if you can actually be able to differentiate

However, when you buy original panels from original source, you won't have doubt as to whether they came with Copper or Aluminium. They always come with copper (pure or tinned).

Whichever case, I love cutting and twist-joining... Trust me, some twist-joining outlasts some MC4 connections...

Whatever anyone finds comfortable, the key thing is the professionalism you applied in whatever method .. Cheers

vikaosi:


Thank you. Please could you list the required documents again, let me be sure that nothing is missing.

*Your passport ID
*Your Police clearance result (character report)
*your Tb test results
*Your partner's Visa
*Your partner's CoS
*CoS maintenance letter from Your partner's employer
*Your partner's BRP
*Marriage certificate

vikaosi:


I thought as much. With Maintenance ticked on the COS of your spouse, some of the requirements are waived. From your papers you pasted, we applied for the same type of visa. I paid $322.

Please what documents were requested from you at the biometric centre


Congratulations.

You're right...

Go with your passport,of course. Then very importantly too, the TLScontact appointment email... Then the printout Checklist. If you paid for added value service, you'll need to print out that TLScontact receipt. Then, a copy of your passport data page (I did mine coloured).

I believe you uploaded the required documents when you were applying. Otherwise, you'll need to physically go with them and have them uploaded there ...

Thanks

vikaosi:


IELTS was not mentioned anywhere in my application process. And it is not in the checklist. Could it be that there are different types of spousal visas?

Dear Vikaosi,
Finally I see someone that speaks same "language" with me..lolz

I've read some posts and I've been confused.. Cost was just $317, as the only fee, unlike the over $3,000 I've been seeing here for Spouse Visa.
Really seem there are different versions of Spouse or Partner Visa. And I also remembered that when my wife and I were applying for it, we changed application 3 times. The first two links were strange and has so many questions and requirements, including the English results or degree and many other things someone has listed earlier here.
But she was like, it can't be those, and later got the link we finally used from a colleague.

And decision was concluded within 3weeks. (Applied on March 29th, went for biometrics on April 5 at Abuja VAC, and got mail that Visa was ready for collection on April 27)

Collected my Visa just this afternoon, and by God's grace, it's approved.

So, it actually seems there are different versions of Spouse/partner Visa, for different reasons or benefits I believe

I also pray that those still awaiting decision would receive theirs soonest...with favourable decision.
Cheers all

EDITED: And no, we didn't upload any single picture nor chats nor any form of receipts or bills

earthrealm:


Could you post the picture of your ATS.
Tried another type/model of ATS?

Same issue with both ATS...

Good evening house,

Anybody with an idea of any device capable of converting split-phase 220VAC to normal single phase 220VAC source.

After installing a Felicity inverter, I discovered every other thing in the house is working fine, except the ATS (used, with a timer, to control freezer operation) . With NEPA, the ATS outputs fine, but with inverter output, it's "vibrating". Never experienced such issue with other inverters.
I was later made to understand that Felicity inverters have split phase output source, hence its not compatible with the ATS coil.

Anyone with idea of a device that can serve in between or with an alternative solution... Thanks.

You can also kindly reach me on 081-8-2625213 (Whatsapp)

Mfunkynation:

are you base in Eket?
am in Akwa Ibom

Yes sir

temmyt20:
As advised by some nairalanders, I also got a small dc voltmeter. Please what is the(i don forget the term) least my battery should get to?

Stay within the green zone... Cheers

Valto:
not true as most of the so called used Canadian panels are pasted stickers.

Especially the ones that are "made in Canada"

olopan:
Any port Harcourt based pro solar installer in the forum to please kindly reach out to me via contact on sign.

With pictures of recent install and a brief discussion.

NB: Open for 24 hours from time of posting

Port Harcourt isn't far from Eket... Have done some jobs in PH.

Refer to page 1110 for my recent installation pics, with my digits, and reach out should my "qualifications" interest you .
Cheers

samnaija:


I used it for 12 battery bank, and all are equalized .

See if you can make the battery balancer two... Cheers

samnaija:


@ thanks bro for the diagram about the battery balancer, it really helped has I upgraded my battery banks and used only one balancer really appreciate

Hello Damnaija,
. You're welcome sir.

However, I hope you didn't use only one balancer for a 5-string battery bank?

One balancer can conveniently serve a 2-string battery bank. I drew the diagram for explanation purpose. For example, in my recent installed Pic, I used 3 balancers for a 4-string battery bank.
Cheers

ceaser:


Maybe dude is trying to reduce the failure points that'll need to be addressed with higher 48v battery bank.

48v (4 in series) versus 24v (2 in series) - 4 potential fails versus 2 potential fails.

My own comment though would have been structured thus:

Nice and neatly done, but for such a huge bank size, why is LA preferred over Lithium?

Good point @bolded

As for the battery tech, both options were presented to the man, each with its detailed pros and cons...
The client decided to go for LA for now... And as of December ending when the execution was initiated, he could "afford" LA

He's also not too exposed to Solar system and he needed to first start with something less "complicated"

ojeysky:


Nice and neatly done, but for such a huge bank size, why is 24v preferred over 48v?

Thanks Ojeysky,

As of December ending, the man only intended going for 6 batteries, hence the 24V setup. And this January, the man suddenly decided to add extra 2 batteries with additional 4 panels.

However, I actually preferred this 24V setup to 48V... More balanced

2/2

3.96KW 3-stream PV Array

1/2

Safely, Neatly, and Professionally Executed!!!

*3.5KVA/24V Inverter
*19.2KWh Battery Bank Storage (Amaron Quanta)
*80A 150V Fangpusun Flexmax MPPT
*50A 100V Fangpusun MPPT - x2

081-826-25 213 (Call/SMS/WhatsApp)

Michaelondon53:
Good morning

Is there any effect of putting your lead acid battery on the floor? On bare ground or on carpet?

I've heard or read it increases self discharge of the batteries... Just to be on caution side, kindly place on a wood or any non-conductive material to isolate them from direct contact with the floor

nonoski:


I had similar high rating about Outback but I finally learnt that they are over rated. I personally bought 2 of them from Amazon in US due to its high ratings.

Now let me give u my layman experience.

There is usually PHED in the morning around 7am till like 9am, the CC continue to show charged even when utility is no longer available. So while the sun is shining the CCs are sleeping and the inverter is busy draining the batteries. By the time the useless Outback CC kick in around 2-3pm it will not be able to charge the batteries till they float or absorb. Most times by the time my wife returns from school runs the inverter has shut down due to low battery.

However the Victron CC I have in he village moves quickly from float to Absorb and then bulk within few minutes when utility is no longer available and the AC is on. It makes the batteries remain fully charged till 5-6pm most times 6:15pm.

So I have learnt not to joke with little details. They can cost u a fortune.

Might need to set the Re-bulk voltage well

Finishing coming on the road...

100A DC Energy Wattmeter

* with DC shunt and Current Transformer - 12k
* with DC shunt only - 10k

081-8-2625213 (Call/SMS/Whatsapp)

*1-pole (10A, 16A, 32A, 40A) 5k each
*2-pole (100A) 8k each

081-8-2625213 (SMS/Call/WhatsApp)

CLEARANCE SALES!!!

PV Box... Contains
* 5pcs of 20A 1000VDC Bussmann fuses with fuse carriers and a bus link
* 3-pole 600VDC Eaton DC surge device
* +ve, - ve, and ground terminal connectors with cable links

55k

081-8-2625213 (Call/SMS/Whatsapp)

omotoda:


This is more than impressive for a LA battery.Its contemporary usually have 700 cycles at 50% DOD

Actually depends on the battery. Amaron Quanta still have 1,200 cycles at about 50% DoD

mctfopt:


Did they state the number of cycles on the data sheet?

Yeah... Kindly see the attached

mctfopt:


No idea the floating or absorption voltage levels of this battery, but there's a location I've seen these batteries for years, they just keep using it until there was a fire incidence (caused by AC) that burnt the location.

It was in operation for a good 4 years before the fire, no downtime whatsoever.

So I'll say it's a good battery

This my review get as e be o

Hahaha.... Thanks for the review sir.

I've already gotten the data sheet from the supplier I'm getting the batteries from.

4 years is very okay and I believe it could do more years with proper management

I appreciate your feedback sir. Cheers

Good evening house...

Anybody here with honest review on NXT INDEX battery? How reliable is it?

And any idea of the absorption and float voltage levels? Thanks

Valto:
lolz, real 60A felicity mppt for 60k . u must be kidding
onyeoma CY, if the person money no reach u add for him, just like u added for the customer above, by giving him 45A cc in place of 60A. continue

Lolz... Have you forgotten that, not too long, someone marketed CanadianSolar 300W panel for 34k here? Made right in Canada for that matter

Who was that again

Because, if my brain is not painting me, I think it's this same guy...
One day he'll market Victron Quattro 15KVA for 350k.
Maybe he goes to the country of manufacture and carry the items in his pocket as luggage